IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


1.1 


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2.0 


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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WESH  h'MH  STKE  :i 

WEBSUic  M.Y.  '4580 

(716'  873-4303 


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V 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  at  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


n 


n 


D 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagee 


□    Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  rastaurde  et/ou  pellicul6e 


Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


□    Coloured  maps/ 
Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 

□    Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

I      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relid  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serree  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  int^rieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout^es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  dt6  filmdes. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl^mentaires; 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  sq  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  una 
modification  dans  la  mdthode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquds  ci-dessous. 


□    Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

V~^  Pages  damaged/ 
I      I    Pages  endommag6es 

I      I    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 


Pages  restaur^es  et/ou  pellicul^es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d6color6es,  tachet6es  ou  piqu^es 


□    Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d^tach^es 


r^ 


Showthrough/ 
Transparence 


I      I    Quality  of  print  varies/ 


D 

D 
D 


Quality  in^gale  de  I'impression 


Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  supplementaire 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  filmdes  d  nouveau  de  facon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film6  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu6  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

y 

12X                             16X                             20X                              24X                             28X                             32X 

Th«  copy  filmsd  her*  has  bean  raproducad  thank* 
to  tha  ganarotity  of: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archives  of  British  Columbia 


L'axamplaira  film*  fut  raproduit  grAca  6  la 
g*n6rosit*  da: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archives  of  British  Columbia 


Tha  imagas  appaaring  hara  ara  tha  batt  quality 
posalbia  conaidarlrq  tha  condition  and  lagibillty 
-)f  tha  original  copy  and  in  kaaping  with  tha 
filming  contract  apacifications. 


Original  copias  in  printad  papar  covers  ara  filmad 
beginning  with  tha  front  covar  and  ending  on 
tha  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  innpres- 
sion.  or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  eacK  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  -^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  laige  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Lea  imagas  suivantas  ont  At*  reproduites  avac  la 
plus  grand  soin,  compta  tenu  de  la  condition  at 
da  la  nattet*  da  raxemplaire  film*,  et  en 
conformity  avac  las  conditions  du  contrat  da 
filmage. 

Les  exemplairas  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimAe  sont  filmte  en  commen^an* 
par  la  premier  plat  at  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
darnlAre  page  qui  comporta  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration.  soit  par  la  second 
plat,  salon  la  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplairas 
originaux  sont  filmAs  en  commen^ant  par  la 
premiAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  derniAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
darniAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — ^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
filmAs  A  des  taux  de  reduction  diffArents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichA,  il  est  film*  A  partir 
de  Tangle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaire.  Las  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mAthode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

U] 


] 


LETTER 


1 


w. 


■n 


GEOGRAPHICAL  MEMOIR 


r 


UPON 


UPPER  CALIFOENIA. 


BY  JOHN  CHARLES  FREMONT. 


AODBESSBD  TO  TBB  SEHATE  Of  TBS  OmTEO  STATES  IN  1848. 


TO  WHICH  ABI  HOW  &DDID,    IXTBAOTS   ISOH 

HAKmYrS  COLLECTION  OF  VOYAGES,  LA  PEYBOUSE'S  VOYAGE, 

VENEGA'S  HISTORY  OF  C^gJFOBNI^ 

HABEIS'S  COLLECTION  OF  VOYAGES,  VON  LANGDORPP'S  TRAVELS, 

ALCEDO'S  GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  HISTORICAL  DICTIONARY, 

HASTINGS'S  GUIDE  TO  OREGON  AND  CALIFORNIA, 

PARNHAM'S  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURES  Dl  CALIPORNU, 

THE  PRESIDENT'S  MESSAGE  TO  CONGRESS,  DECEMBER  6,   1848, 

COL.  MASON'S  REPORT  TO  THE  SECRETARY  AT  WAR, 

LETTER  OP  THE  REV.  WALTER  COLTON,   AUGUST  29,  1848, 

CERTIFICATE  OP  THE  MINT, 

LETTER  OF  THOMAS  0.  LARKEN,  LATE  CONSUL  AT  MONTEREY, 

LETTER  PROM  COM.  JONES  TO  THE  SECRETARY  OF  THE  N  IVY,  OCT.  25,  1848. 

EDITOR  OF  THE  OREGON  SPECTATOR-HIS  ACCOUNT  OF  OREGON. 


BY  WILLIAM  M^'CARTY. 


/ 


Ml 


Mi 


PHILADELPHIA: 
PUBLISHED  BY  WILLIAM  MoCARTY, 

ASD  rOB  8AUI  BT  BQOKSBLLkM  OUWRAUiT. 

ttiot,  tnm(-rm  atan. 

""■^"^.■■" 

1849. 


1 


/  \f 


^ 


UP 


HAK 
HARR 


THE 

L] 

LET' 
LETTER  FR( 
EDIT( 


T 


GEOGRAPHICAL  MEMOIR 


UPON 


UPPER  CALIFORNIA. 


BY  JOHN   CHARLES  FREMONT. 


ADDRESSED  TO  THE  SENATE  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES  IN  1848. 


TO    WUICII   ARE    NOW  ABDED,    EXTRACTS    FROM 

HAKLUYT'S  COLLECTION  OF   VOYAGES,   LA   PEYROUSE'S  VOYAGE, 

VENEGA'S    HISTORY   OF   CALIFORNIA, 

HARRIS'S   COLLECTION   OF   VOYAGES,   VON    LANGDORFF'S   TRAVELS, 

ALCEDO'S   GEOGRAPHICAL   AND    HISTORICAL  DICTIONARY, 

HASTINGS'S  GUIDE  TO  OREGON  AND  CALIFORNIA, 

FARNHAM'S    LIFE   AND   ADVENTURES    IN   CALIFORNIA, 

THE   PRESIDENT'S   MESSAGE   TO   CONGRESS,  DECEMBER   o,    1848, 

COL.  MASON'S  REPORT  TO  THE  SECRETARY  AT  AVAR, 

LETTER   OF   THE   REV.   WALTER   COLTON,    AUGUST   29,   1848, 

CERTIFICATE   OF   THE    MINT, 

LETTER   OP   THOMAS   0.    LARKIN,   LATE   CONSUL   AT   MONTEREY, 

LETTER  FROM   COM.  JONES  TO   THE   SECRETARY   OF   THE   NAVY,  OCT.  25, 

EDITOR  OF  THE   OREGON   SPECTATOR— HIS   ACCOUNT  OF  OREGON. 


1848. 


BY  WILLIAM  MCCARTY. 


PHILADELPHIA: 
PUBLISHED   BY   WILLIAM   McCAIlTY, 

AND  FOR  SALE  BV  BOOKSELLERS  GENERALLY. 


FlUCZ,  TWBNTT-nVE  CENTS. 


1849. 


mm 

i 


> 


\/ 


Entered  accordi  ig  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  18-19,  by 

VILLI  AM  Mccarty, 

the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  Eastern  District  of  Tennsylvania. 


SIEREOIIPED   BY   L.   JOHKSOJt   AKD  CO. 
PHILADELPHIA. 


In  put 

upoa  Calii 

other  sour 

the  numen 

too  conflic 

and  some 

country  u 

gather  go! 

the  precic 

a  number 

its    numb 

enough    fj 

schoolmas 

together  1 

well — livii 

and    barn 

farm ;   an( 

mon  purs* 

sickness, 

and  dome 

of  a  gooc 

of  this  p 

my  room, 

and   faith 

eluded. 

adventurei 

The   i 

tery,   Cal: 

on,  as  giv 


o 


PREFACE. 


In  putting  to  press  a  new  edition  of  Colonel  Fremont's  Geographical  Memoir 
upon  California,  I  have  added  much  information,  of  a  reliable  character,  from 
other  sources.  In  this  compilation  I  have  entirely  avoided  any  selection  from 
the  numerous  anonymous  letters  published  in  the  newspapers.  Their  accounts  were 
too  conflicting  to  be  relied  onj  some  making  the  country  a  perfect  Paradise^ 
and  some  a  Pandemonium;  and,  probably,  many  of  the  emigrants  will  find  the- 
country  uncomfortable  enough^  if  they  go  there  for  no  other  purpose  than  to 
gather  gold.  It  has  appeared  to  me  possible  to  obtain  all  the  advantages  of 
the  precious  metals,  with  the  comforts  and  conveniences  of  home,  by  forming 
a  number  of  associations  based  on  a  proper  division  of  labour,  to  contain  among 
its  numbers  one  or  more  persons  of  every  useftil  mechanical  art,  and  also 
enough  farmers,  not  neglecting  the  religious  teacher,  the  physician,  and  the 
schoolmaster.  Let  them  all  take  their  families;  let  the  associations  be  bound 
together  by  contract  for  five  or  more  years,  whether  the  members  are  sick  or 
well — living  or  dead.  Let  them  take  up  land;  let  the  mechanic  build  houses 
and  barns;  let  part  of  them  fish;  part  raise  cattle,  sheep,  and  hogs;  part 
farm;  and  the  remainder  only  dig  gold — having  a  common  treasury  and  a  com- 
mon purse !  The  gold-diggers  would  then  always  have  a  home  in  winter  and  in 
sickness,  and  all  could  then  enjoy  a  fair  share  of  the  profits,  and  society, 
and  domestic  comforts  at  the  same  time.  From  this  hasty  sketch,  the  details 
of  a  good  working  plan  may  be  made  out.  I  might  have  extended  the  size 
of  this  pamphlet  by  further  extracts  from  other  writers,  but  I  am  limited  in 
my  room,  and  think  enough  already  ^iven  to  satisfy  all  such  as  desire  a  fair 
and  faithful  description  of  the  country.  Mere  personal  adventure  has  been  ex- 
cluded. To  those  who  desire  that,  I  would  recommend  the  full  accounts  of  their 
adventures,  as  given  by  Farnham  and  Hastings. 

The  following  letter  from  the  Rev.  Walter  Colton,  chief  alcalde  of  Mon- 
tery,  California,  and  who  has  recently  arrived  in  Philadelphia,  may  be  relied 
on,  as  giving  a  true  state  of  affairs  in  that  country  at  this  time : — 


0 


^1 


^1' 


\f 


r 


4  PREFACE. 

To  the  Editors  of  the  North  American  mul  United  States  Gazette  : — 

Oentlemkn, — The  loiters  recoivod  by  tli(3  ("lydo,  jnirporting  to  ho  written  from 
Califoruia,  and  wlii<(Ii  reproMtsnt  that  country  in  a  state  of  the  utmost  anarehy  and  con- 
fusion, were  evidently  penned  for  some  .sinister  or  mischievous  purpose.  These  hitters 
state  tliat  General  Smith  had  heon  forced  by  a  mol)  to  tal<e  refu<re  on  board  a  man-of- 
war.  The  General,  when  I  left  Monterey,  was  living  on  board  the  flag  ship  Ohio;  but 
ho  was  there  not  to  escape  popular  violence,  but  simply  and  .solely  because  he  could 
not,  at  the  time,  procure  .suitable  ((iiarters  on  shore.  These  letters  also  state  tlitit  the 
life  of  Gol.  jMason  was  in  jeopardy,  on  account  oi'  sonui  obno.xjous  measures  which  ho 
had  adopted,  when  the  truth  is,  V.o\.  iMason  is  now  in  New  York.  It  must  be  a  long 
arm  that  can  stretch  from  California  to  our  Atlantic  board. 

There  are  two  classes  of  persons  at  San  Francisco;  the  one  is  tho  permanent  citi- 
zens, the  other  is  the  gold-diggers.  Tho  citizens  have  every  thing  at  issue,  in  repress- 
ing tumult  and  di.sorder ;  and  the  gold-diggers  are  on  their  way  to  the  mines,  and  are 
in  as  much  hasto  as  a  bridegroom  bound  to  the  nuptial  altar,  or  a  doctor  to  his  first 
cholera  patient.  They  have  no  time  and  no  motive  for  getting  up  a  mob ;  it  cannot 
supply  them  with  mules  or  shorten  the  distance  to  tho  mines;  and  they  have  no  preju- 
dices to  gratify,  unless  a  man  can  hate  what  he  has  never  seen,  and  find  it  in  I'.is  nature 
to  salute  a  stranger  by  knocking  him  down,  and  that  too  with  golden  visions  dancing 
through  his  dreams. 

And  there  is  just  as  little  danger  of  lawless  violence  in  the  mines  as  on  the  sea- 
board. In  the  mines  they  have  a  primitive  but  very  effective  method  of  administering 
criminal  justice.  If  a  man  attempts  the  life  of  another,  or  robs  him  of  his  gold,  he 
is  brought  before  twelve  diggers,  who  act  as  judge  and  jury  in  tho  case;  if  tho  evidence 
of  his  guilt  be  clear  and  conclusive,  he  is  sentenced  to  death,  and  is  hung  to  a  limb  of 
•  the  tree  under  which  the  court  holds  its  sittings.  There  is  no  escape  through  a  loop- 
hole of  the  law,  or  a  technical  error  in  the  indictment.  The  only  question  is,  whether 
he  did  what  ho  was  accused  of  having  done ;  if  he  did.  not,  he  is  discharged  ;  if  ho  did, 
he  swings.  Such  is  law  and  its  execution  in  the  mines.  They  hang  for  an  attempt  at 
murder,  as  well  as  murder  itself.  They  say  the  wretch  is  just  as  guilty  as  if  ho  had 
succeeded,  and  the  next  time  he  ma?/  succeed,  and  so  they  put  him  out  of  the  way.  A 
pretty  good  system  this  among  gold-diggers,  and  life  would  be  quite  as  secure  if  we 
had  a  touch  of  it  here  in  Philadelphia. 

Nor  is  there  any  serious  cause  of  alarm  on  account  of  the  Indians.  Their  chiefs 
are  all  but  absolute,  and  are  on  friendly  relations  with  the  Americans.  Here  and  there, 
a  horse  may  be  stolen ;  but  I  did  not  hear  of  a  single  case  of  murder  during  the  time 
that  I  was  in  the  mines.  These  Indians  are  of  a  mild,  peaceable  disposition,  easily 
domesticated,  and  trained  to  habits  of  industry.  They  are  extensively  engaged  in  dig- 
ging out  gold  in  the  mines,  which  they  sell  to  the  whites  for  provisions,  blankets,  and 
trinkets.  Nor  is  any  collision  between  the  Americans  and  foreigners  to  be  apprehended. 
The  gold  got  out  by  the  latter  is  mostly  spent  in  the  territory.  First  or  last,  it  falls 
principally  into  the  hands  of  the  Americans.  Very  little  of  it  is  taken  by  the  digger 
out  of  the  country.  Any  attempt  on  the  part  of  the  foreigners  to  disturb  the  flag, 
would  be  followed  by  their  precipitate  ejectment  from  the  mines,  if  not  their  destruc- 
tion. 

I  have  written  the  above  at  the  request  of  several  gentlemen,  to  quiet  the  ground- 
less alarms  created  by  the  letters  of  the  Clyde. 

Very  respectfully,  yours, 

Walter  Colton. 

Philadelphia,  July  3,  1849; 


f 


tl    1  "< ' 


I' 


itton  from 
,■  1111(1  con- 
osc  letters 
ii  iiian-of- 
[)Iii();  but 

lie  could 
tliMt  the 
I  wliicli  ho 

he  u  long 

incut  eiti- 
in  rejire-Sii- 
iml  are 
to  his  first 
it  cannot 
!  no  preju- 
'  is  nature 
IS  dancing 

m  the  sea- 

nini.sloring 

is  gold,  he 

!  evidence 

a  limb  of 

gh  a  loop- 

s,  whether 

if  he  did, 

ittcuipt  at 

if  he  had 

c  way.     A 

tcure  if  we 

heir  chiefs 
)  and  there, 
ig  the  time 
tion,  easily 
ged  in  dig- 
iukets,  and 
preheuded. 
ast,  it  falls 
the  digger 
•b  the  flag, 
eir  destruc- 


he  ground- 


CoLTON. 


GEOGRAPHICAL  MEMOIR. 


On  tho  seoond  day  of  February,  in  the  year 
1847,  durinir  iriy  absence  o'.i  my  tliird  exiicdi- 
tion  of  lo|)(ii;ra|)hical  survey  in  tlie  western 
part  of  this  continent,  a  resolve  was  passed  by 
the  Senate  diri'eting  the  Cdnstructioii  of  two 
maps — one  of  the  central  section  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  the  other  of  Oregon  and  Upper 
California — from  the  materials  collected  by 
me  in  the  two  previous  ex|)editions,  and  with 
the  adilitions  which  the  then  exisiiii<r  expedi- 
tion niiirlit  furnish  ;  and  Mr.  Charles  Preuss, 
my  assistant  in  the  (irst  and  second  expeditions, 
was  employed  to  commence  the  work. 

On  my  return  to  the  United  States,  in  the 
month  of  September  last,  I  found  Mr.  Preuss 
closely  enifaged  upon  the  work  on  which  the 
Senate  had  einjiloyed  him ;  and,  from  that 
time  to  the  present,  1  have  myself  given  all 
the  time  that  could  be  spared  from  other  en- 
gagements to  supply  tiie  additions  which  the 
last  expedition  has  enabled  me  to  make.  Con- 
ceiviiijr  that  the  map  of  Oregon  and  (^^alifornia 
was  of  the  most  imm'tdiate  and  pressing  im- 
port'uiee,  1  first  directed  my  attention  to  its 
prtparution,  in  order  to  bring  it  into  a  condi- 
tion a^  soon  as  possible  to  be  laid  before  the 
Senat'' ;  which  is  now  done. 

In  laying  this  map  of  Oregon  and  Upper 
California  before  the  Senate,  1  deem  it  proper 
to  show  the  extent  and  general  character  of  the 
work,  and  how  far  it  may  be  depended  on  as 
correct,  as  being  founded  on  my  own  or.  other 
surveys,  and  how  far  it  is  conjectural,  and 
only  presented  as  the  best  that  is  known. 

In  extent,  it  embraces  the  whole  western 
side  of  this  continent  between  the  eastern  base 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  the  Pacific  Ocean, 
and  between  the  Straits  of  Fuca  and  the  Gulf 
of  California,  taking  for  its  outline,  on  the 
north,  the  boundary  line  with  Great  Britain, 
and  on  I  he  south,  including  the  Bay  of  San 
Diego,  tlie  head  of  the  Gulf  of  California,  the 
rivers  Colorado  and  Gila,  and  all  the  cr  iiitry 
through  which  the  line  of  the  late  treaty  vvith 
Mexico  would  run,  from  El  Paso  del  Norte  to 
the  sea.  To  complete  the  view  in  that  quar- 
ter, the  viilley  of  the  Rio  del  Norte  is  added, 
from  tile  head  of  the  river  to  El  Paso  del 
Norte,  thereby  including  New  Mexico.  The 
ma])  has  l)een  constructed  expressly  to  exhibit 
the  two  countries  of  Oregon  and  the  Alta  Cali- 
fornia together.  It  is  believed  to  be  the  most 
correct  that  has  appeared  of  either  of  them ; 
and  it  is  eertiih'ly  *':"  "tdy  one  that  shows  the 
structure  and  configuration  of  the  interior  of 
Upper  California. 

The  i)art  of  the  map  which  exhibits  Oregon 
is  chiefly  copied  from  the  works  of  others,  but 


not  entirely ;  my  own  explorjitions  in  that  ter- 
ritory having  extended  to  nearly  two  thousand 
miles.  The  part  which  exhibits  California, 
and  especially  the  Great  Basin,  tho  Sierrd 
Nevada,  the  beautiful  valley  of  Sacramento 
and  San  .Joaquin,  is  chiefly  from  my  own  sur- 
veys or  personal  view,  and  in  such  cases  is 
given  as  correct.  Where  my  own  observa- 
tions did  not  extend,  the  best  authorities  have 
been  followed. 

The  profile  view  in  tho  margin,  on  the  north 
side  of  the  map,  exhibits  the  elevations  of  the 
country  from  the  South  Pass  in  the  Rocky 
Mountains  to  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  pass- 
ing the  Utah  and  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  follow- 
ing the  river  Iluuiboldt  through  the  northern 
side  of  the  Great  Basin,  crossing  the  Sierra 
Nevada  into  the  valley  of  the  Sacramento, 
where  tlie  emigrant  road  now  crosses  that 
sierra  forty  miles  north  of  Nueva  Helvetia. 
This  line  shows  the  present  travelling  route 
to  California.  The  profile  on  the  south  side 
of  the  map  exhibits  the  elevations  of  the  coun- 
try on  a  dilferent  ine — t!io  line  of  exjiloration 
in  the  last  exjiedition — from  the  head  of  the 
Arkansas  by  the  Utah  and  Salt  Lake,  and 
through  the  interior  of  the  Great  Basiu,  cross- 
ing the  Sierra  Nevada  into  the  Sacramento  val- 
ley at  the  head  of  the  Ri(j  de  los  (Vmcriiranos. 
Tliese  profile  views  are  given  merely  for  their 
outlines,  to  show  the  structure  of  the  country 
between  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  tlie  sea, 
and  the  rise  and  fall  occasioned  by  mountains 
and  valleys.  Full  and  descriptive  ])rofile 
views  on  a  large  scale  are  wanted,  marking 
the  geological  structure  of  the  country,  and 
exhibiting  at  their  proper  altitudes  the  ililferent 
products  of  the  vegetable  kingdom.  Some 
material  is  already  collected  for  such  a  pur- 
pose, extending  on  difl'crent  lines  from  the 
Mississippi  to  the  Pacific,  but  not  siillicient  to 
complete  the  work. 

The  Arabic  figures  on  difTerent  parts  of  the 
map  indicate  the  elevation  of  places  a.njve  the 
level  of  the  sea;  a  knowledge  of  which  is 
essential  to  a  just  conception  of  the  climate 
and  agricultural  capacities  of  a  country. 

The  longitudes  established  on  the  line  of 
exploration  of  the  last  expedition  are  based  on 
a  series  of  astronomical  observations,  resting 
on  four  main  positions,  determined  by  lunar 
culminations.  The  first  of  these  main  posi- 
tions is  at  the  mouth  of  the  Fontaine  qui  Bouit 
river,  on  the  Upper  Arkansas ;  the  second  is 
on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake, 
and  two  in  the  valley  of  the  Sacramento,  at 
the  western  base  of  the  Sierra  Nevada.  This 
line  of  astronomical  observations,  thus  carried 


.> 


GEOGRAPHICAL  MEMOIR. 


r 


) 


f 


ocroBs  the  continent,  reached  the  Pacific  Ocean 
on  tiie  northern  shore  of  the  Bay  of  Mon- 
terey. 

In  my  published  map,  of  the  year  1845,  the 
line  of  the  western  coast  \)aa  laid  down  accord- 
ing to  Vancouver.  When  the  newly  esta- 
lilisiiod  positions  were  placed  on  the  map  now 
laid  before  the  Senate,  it  was  found  that  they 
carn'ed  the  lino  of  the  coast  about  fourteen 
miles  west,  and  the  valleys  of  the  Siicr.imento 
and  San  Joiii|uin  about  twenty  miles  east; 
making  an  increase  of  more  than  thirty  miles 
in  the  breadth  of  the  coimtry  below  the  Sierra 
Nevada.  Upon  examination,  it  was  found 
that  these  positions  agreed,  nearly,  with  the 
observations  of  Captain  Reechey,  at  Monterey. 
The  corrections  recjuired  by  the  new  positions 
were  then  accordingly  made;  the  basin  of  the 
Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin  valleys  was  re- 
moved to  the  eiistward,  and  the  line  of  the 
coast  projected  farther  west,  conformably  to 
my  observations,  retaining  the  configuration 
given  to  it  by  the  surveys  of  Vancouver. 

The  error  in  the  position  of  the  San  Joaquin, 
Sacramento,  and  Wahlahmath  valleys  still 
exists  upon  the  most  authentic  maps  extant; 
and  it  appears  that,  upon  the  charts  in  general 
use,  a  greatly  erroneous  position  is  still  given 
to  the  coast. 

By  the  return  ofthe  United  States  sloop-cf-war 
Portsmouth,  Commander  Montgomery,  from 
the  Pacific  Ocean,  it  is  learned  that  two  British 
ships  of  war  are  now  engaged  in  making  a 
new  survey  of  the  gulf  and  coast  of  California. 
It  is  also  known  that  an  American  whale  ship 
was  recently  lost  on  the  coast  of  California  in 
consequence  of  the  errors  in  the  charts  now  in 
general  use,  locating  the  coast  and  islands. 
From  Monterey  south,  too  far  east.* 

The  astronomical  observations  made  by  me 
across  the  continent,  in  this  my  third  expedi- 
tion, were  calculated  by  Professor  Hubbard, 
of  the  National  Observatory,  (Wabhington 
City,)  during  the  present  winter;  and  a  note 
from  liim  on  the  subject  of  these  observations 
is  added  as  an  appendix  to  this  memoir.f  My 
attention  having  been  recently  called  to  this 
subject,  (the  true  position  of  the  Gulf  of  Cali- 
fornia,) I  find  it  worthy  of  remark  that  the 
position  given  to  this  coast  on  the  charts  of  the 
old  Spanish  navigators  agrees  nearly  with  that 
which  would  be  assigned  to  it  by  the  obser- 
vations of  the  most  eminent  naval  surveyors 
of  the  present  day.  The  position  adopted  for 
Monterey  and  the  adjacent  coast,  on  the  map 
now  laid  before  the  Senate,  agrees  nearly  with 
that  in  which  it  had  been  placed  by  the  obser- 
vations of  Malaspina,:^:  in  1791. 

In  constructing  this  map,  it  became  neces- 
sary to  adopt  the  coast  line  of  the  Pacific,  as 

•  Naval.— The  United  States  sloop-of-war  Portsmouth, 
CommBndcr  John  B.  Montgomery,  arrived  at  Boston  on 
Friday,  from  the  Pacific  Ocean,  last  from  Valparaiso,  Feb.  23. 
Commander  Mont|;omery  states  that  the  British  frigate 
"  Herald"  and  the  brig  "Pandora"  are  engaged  in  mailing 
a  new  survey  of  the  gulf  and  coast  of  California. 

The  whale  ship  "  Hope,"  of  Providence,  was  recently  lost 
na  the  coast,  in  consequence  of  an  error  in  the  charts  now 
in  general  use,  which  locate  the  coast  and  islands  from 
Monterey  to  Cape  St.  Lucas  from  fifteen  to  forty  miles  too 
far  to  the  eastward.— JVotumaJ  IrUMigemxr. 

I  The  note  and  tables  here  referred  to  are  omitted  iu  thlB 


found  in  maps  in  general  use,  to  give  it  com- 
pleteness. It  was  no  part  of  my  design  to 
make  a  chart  of  the  coast.  Finding  nn  error 
when  I  came  to  lay  down  the  Bay  of  Monte- 
rey, I  altered  my  map  to  suit  it.  I  knew 
nothing  then  of  any  errors  in  the  coast.  It  is 
satisfactory  now  to  find  that  my  itstronomical 
observations  correspond  with  those  previously 
made  by  Beechey  and  Belcher,  and  very  prali- 
fying  to  bo  able  to  i"^d  some  testimonial  to 
the  correctness  of  those  made  by  Malaspina 
long  before  either  of  them.  Vancouver  re- 
moved the  coast  line  as  fixed  by  Malaspina, 
and  the  subse(|uent  observations  carry  it  back. 
In  laying  this  map  before  the  Senate,  and  in 
anticipation  ofthe  full  work  which  my  explora- 
tions (with  some  further  examinations)  may 
enable  me  to  draw  up  hereafter,  I  deem  it  a 
proper  accompaniment  to  the  map  to  present 
some  brief  notices  of  California,  with  a  view 
to  show  the  character  of  the  country,  and  its 
capability  or  otherwise  to  sustain  a  consider- 
able population.  In  doing  this,  no  general 
remarks  applicable  to  the  whole  of  California 
can  be  used.  The  diversity  in  diflTerent  parts 
is  too  great  to  admit  of  generalization  in  the 
descriL,;ion.  Separate  views  of  different  parts 
must  be  taken;  and  in  this  brief  sketch,  the 
design  is  to  limit  the  view  to  the  two  great 
divisions  of  the  country  which  lie  on  the  oppo- 
site sides  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  and  to  the 
character  of  that  mountain  itself,  so  prominent 
in  the  structure  of  the  country,  and  exercising 
so  great  an  influence  ov-  he  climate,  soil,  and 
productions  of  its  two  uivisions. 

SIERR.\  NEVADA. 

Tliis  Sierra  is  part  of  the  great  mountain 
range,  which,  under  different  names  and  with 
different  elevations,  but  with  much  uniformity 
of  direction  and  general  proximity  to  the  coast, 
extends  from  the  peninsula  of  California  to 
Russian  America ;  and  without  a  gap  in  the 
distance  through  which  the  water  ofthe  Rocky 
Mountains  could  reach  the  Pacific  Ocean,  ex- 
cept at  the  two  places  where  the  Columbia 
and  Frazer's  river  respectively  find  their  pas- 
sage. This  great  range  is  remarkable  for  its 
length,  its  proximity  and  parallelism  to  the 
sea-coast,  its  great  elevation,  often  more  lofty 
than  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  its  many  grand 
volcanic  peaks,  reaching  high  into  the  region 
of  perpetual  snow.  Rising  singly,  like  pyra- 
mids, from  heavily  timbered  plaieaux,  to  the 
height  of  fourteen  and  seventeen  thousand  feet 
above  the  sea,  these  snowy  peaks  constitute 
the  characterizing  fc/iture  of  the  range,  and 
distinguish  it  from  the  Rocky  Mountains  and 
all  others  on  our  part  of  the  continent. 

edition,  a»  of  little  or  no  interest  to  the  general  reader. 
Those  who  are  curious  in  mere  scientific  matters,  are 
referred  to  the  edition  pablished  by  order  of  the  Senate  of 
the  United  States. 

X  Of  this  skilful,  intrepid,  and  unfortunate  navigator, 
Humboldt  (Essay  on  New  Spain)  says  :— 

"The  peculiar  merit  of  bU  expedition  consists  not  only 
in  the  number  of  astronomical  observations,  but  pTincI- 
pally  in  the  judicious  method  which  was  employed  to 
arrive  at  certain  results.  The  longitude  and  latitude  of 
four  points  on  the  coast  (Cape  San  Lucas,  Monterey,  Noo^ 
ka,  and  Fort  Mulgrave)  were  fixed  in  an  absolute  manner." 


1 


■«ESS;3S 


GEOGRAPHICAL  MEMOIR, 


^fivo  it  com- 
ny  design  to 
ling  nn  error 
;iy  of  Monto- 
il.     I  knew 
conflt.     It  is 
astronomical 
HI'  prrviously 
nd  very  grali- 
stimoniiil  to 
>j  Miiliispina 
iinconver  re- 
y  MalaBpina, 
arry  it  liack. 
cnate,  and  in 
1  my  explora- 
riations)  may 
I  deem  it  a 
ip  to  present 
,  with  a  view 
intry,  and  its 
n  a  consider- 
,  no  general 
of  CaTifornia 
iflfprent  parts 
nation  in  the 
itferont  parts 
f  sketch,  the 
he  two  great 
on  the  oppo- 
.,  and  to  the 
so  prominent 
id  exercisinff 
late,  soil,  ana 


!at  mountain 
les  and  with 
h  uniformity 

to  the  coast, 
'alifornia  to 
I  gap  in  the 
of  the  Rocky 
e  Ocean,  ex- 
le  Columbia 
d  their  pas- 
kable  for  its 
jlism  to  the 
I  more  lofty 

many  grand 

0  the  region 
f,  like  pyra- 
eaux,  to  the 
bousand  feet 
s  constitute 
range,  and 

untains  and 
ent. 

;«noral  reader. 
:  mattcrfi,  are 
r  the  Senate  of 

ato  navigator, 

igifits  not  only 
ns,  but  prinot 

1  employed  to 
nd  latitude  of 
onterey,  Noot 
ilute  manner." 


That  part  of  this  range  which  traverses  the 
AvTk  California  is  called  the  Siimi  Xevada, 
(Snowy  Mountain) — a  nann;  in  itself  implying 
a  great  elevation,  as  it  is  only  anpliiMl,  in 
Spanish  geography,  to  the  mountains  whose 
Bummitfi  penetrato  the  region  of  perpetual 
snow.  It  is  a  grand  feature  of  Calil'orniii,  and 
a  dominating  one,  and  must  bo  wc^ll  understood 
before  the  structure  of  the  country  and  the 
chanictpr  of  its  dilTcrent  divisions  can  be  com- 
prehended. It  divides  (California  into  two 
parts,  and  exercises  a  decided  iufluenct;  on  tin 
climate,  soil,  ami  productions  of  eacli.  Strci.-li- 
ing  along  the  coasf,  and  at  the  general  dis- 
tance of  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  it, 
this  great  mountain  wall  recei' es  the  warm 
winds,  charged  with  vapour,  which  sweep 
across  the  Pacific  Ocean,  precipitates  their 
accumulated  moisture  in  fertili/.ing  rains  and 
snows  upon  its  western  flank,  and  leaves  cold 
and  dry  winds  to  pass  on  to  tlio  east.  Hence 
the  characteristic  differences  of  the  two  re- 
gions— mildness,  fertility,  and  a  superb  vege- 
table kingdom  on  one  side,  comparative  bar- 
renness and  cold  on  the  other. 

The  two  sides  of  the  Sierra  exhibit  two  dis- 
tinct climates.  The  state  of  vegetation,  in 
connection  with  some  thermometrical  observa- 
tions made  during  the  recent  exploring  expe- 
dition to  California,  will  establish  and  illus- 
trate this  difference.  In  the  beginning  of 
December,  1845,  we  crossed  this  Sierra,  at 
latitude  39°  17'  12",  at  the  present  usual  emi- 
grant pass,  at  the  head  of  the  Salmon  Trout 
Kiver,  40  miles  north  of  New  Helvetia,  and 
made  observations  at  each  base,  and  in  the 
same  latitude,  to  determine  the  respective  tem- 
peratures; the  two  bases  bcinj,  respectively, 
the  weilern  about  500,  and  the  eastern  about 
4000  feet  above  the  "  ivel  of  the  sea;  and  the 
Pass,  7200  feet.  The  mean  results  of  the  ob- 
servations were,  on  the  eastern  side,  at  sunrise, 
9° ;  at  noon,  44°  ;  at  sunset,  30°  ;  the  state  of 
vegetation  and  the  appearance  of  the  country 
being  at  the  same  time  (second  week  of  De- 
cember) that  of  confirmed  winter;  the  rivers 
frozen  over,  snow  on  the  ridges,  annual  plants 
dead,  grass  dry,  and  deciduous  trees  stripped 
of  their  foliage.  At  the  western  base,  the  mean 
temperature  during  a  corresponding  week  was, 
at  sunrise,  29°,  and  at  sunset,  52° ;  the  state 
of  the  atmosphere  and  of  vegetation  that  of 
advancing  spring;  grass  fresh  and  green,  four 
to  eight  inches  high,  vernal  plants  in  bloom, 
the  air  soft,  and  all  the  streams  free  from  ice. 
Thus  December,  on  one  side  of  the  mountain, 
was  winter:  nn  the  other  it  was  spring. 

THE  GREAT  BASIN. 

East  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  and  between  it 
and  the  Rocky  Mountains,  is  that  anomalous 
feature  in  our  continent,  the  Great  Basin,  the 
existence  of  which  was  advanced  as  a  theory 
after  the  second  expedition,  and  is  now  esta- 
blished af  "  ^geographical  fact.  It  is  a  singular 
feature :  a  oasin  of  some  five  hundred  miles 
diameter  every  way,  between  four  and  five 
thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  shut 


in  all  nround  by  mountains,  with  its  own  sys- 
tem  of  lakes  and  rivers,  and  having  no  con- 
nection whatever  with  the  sea.  Partly  arid 
and  sparHoly  inhabited,  the  general  character 
of  the  Great  Basin  is  that  of  desert,  but  with 
great  exceptions,  there  being  many  parts  of  it 
very  lit  for  the  residence  of  a  civilized  people; 
and  of  these  parts,  the  Mormons  have  lately 
established  themselves  in  one  of  the  largest 
and  best.  Mountain  is  the  predominating 
structure  of  the  interior  of  the  Basin,  with 
plains  between — the  mountains  wooded  and 
watered,  the  plains  arid  and  sterile.  The  inte- 
rior mountains  conform  to  the  law  which 
governs  the  course  of  tlio  Rocky  Mountains 
and  of  the  Si(>rra  Nevada,  ranging  nearly  north 
and  south,  and  present  a  very  uniform  charac- 
ter of  abruptness,  rising  suddenly  from  a  nar- 
row base  often  to  twenty  miles,  and  attaininij 
an  elevation  of  two  to  five  thousand  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  country.  They  are  grassy  and 
wooded,  showing  snow  on  their  summit  peaks 
during  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  and  afford- 
ing small  streams  of  water  from  five  to  fifty 
feet  wide,  which  lose  themselves,  some  in 
lakes,  some  in  the  dry  plains,  and  some  in  the 
belt  of  alluvial  soil  at  the  base ;  for  these 
mountains  have  very  uniformly  this  belt  of 
alluvion,  the  wash  and  abrasion  of  their  sides, 
rich  in  excellent  grass,  fertile,  and  lin[ht  and 
loose  enough  to  absorb  small  strear'"  Between 
these  mountains  arc  the  arid  plains  w^Mch  re- 
ceive and  deserve  the  name  of  deseii.  Such 
is  the  general  structure  of  the  in*f  rior  of  the 
Great  Basin,  niore  Asiatic  thnn  American  in 
its  character,  and  much  resem'iling  the  eievated 
region  between  the  Caspian  Sea  and  noiihorn 
Persia.  The  rim  of  this  Basin  is  majsive 
ranges  of  mountains,  of  which  the  Sierra 
Nevada  on  the  west,  and  the  Wah-satch  and 
Timpanogos  chains  on  the  east,  aru  the  most 
conspicuous.  On  the  north,  it  is  separated 
from  the  waters  of  the  Columbia  by  a  branch 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  from  the  Gulf 
of  California,  on  the  south,  by  a  bed  of  moun- 
tainous ranges,  of  which  the  existence  has 
been  only  recently  determined.  Snow  abounds 
on  them  all ;  on  some,  in  their  loftier  parts, 
the  whole  year;  with  wood  and  grass;  with 
copious  streams  of  water,  sometimes  amount- 
ing to  considerable  rivers,  flowing  inwards, 
and  forming  lakes  or  sinking  in  the  sands. 
Belts  or  benches  of  good  alluvion  are  usually 
found  at  their  base. 

Lakes  in  the  Great  Basin. — ^The  Great  Salt 
Lake  and  the  Utah  Lake  are  in  this  Basin, 
towards  its  eastern  rim,  and  constitute  its 
most  interesting  feature — one,  a  saturated 
solution  of  common  salt — the  other,  fresh — 
the  Utah  about  one  hundred  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  Salt  Lake,  which  is  itself  four 
thousand  two  hundred  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  and  connected  by  a  strait,  or  river,  thirty- 
five  miles  long. 

These  lakes  drain  an  area  of  ten  or  twelve 
thousand  square  miles,  and  have,  on  the  east, 
along  the  base  of  the  mountain,  the  usual 
bench  of  alluvion,  which  extends  to  a  distance 
of  three  hundred  miles,  with  wood  and  water. 


H>i 


-^ 


mm 


8 


GEOGRAPHICAL  MEMOIR. 


'■^-   : 


and  abundant  grass.  The  Mormons  have  es- 
tablished themselves  on  the  strait  between 
these  two  lakes,  and  will  find  sufficient  arable 
land  for  a  lar^e  settlement — important  from 
its  position  as  intermediate  between  the  Mis- 
sissippi valley  and  the  Pacific  Onean,  and  on 
the  line  of  communication  to  California  and 
Oregon. 

The  rtah  is  about  thirty-five  miles  long,  and 
is  remariiable  for  the  numerous  and  bold 
streams  which  it  receives,  coming  down  from 
the  mountains  on  the  south-east,  all  fresli 
water,  although  a  large  formr^aon  of  rock  salt, 
imbedded  in  red  clay,  is  founu  within  the  area 
on  the  south-east,  which  it  drains.  The  lake 
and  its  afBuents  afford  large  trout  and  other  fish 
in  great  numbers,  which  constitute  the  food  of 
the  Utah  Indians  during  the  fishing  season. 
The  Great  Salt  Lake  has  a  very  irregular  out- 
line, greatly  extended  at  time  of  melting  snows. 
It  is  about  seventy  miles  in  length  ;  both  lakes 
ranging  nearly  north  and  south,  in  conformity 
to  the  range  of  the  mountains,  and  is  remark- 
able for  its  predominance  of  salt.  The  whole 
lake  waters  seem  thoroughly  saturated  with  it, 
and  every  evaporation  of  the  water  leaves  salt 
behind.  The  rocky  shores  of  the  islands  are 
whitened  by  the  spray,  which  leaves  salt  en 
every  thing  it  touches,  and  a  covering  like  ice 
forms  over  the  water,  which  the  waves  throw 
among  the  rocks.  The  shores  of  the  lake  in 
tl)e  dry  season,  when  the  waters  recede,  and 
especially  on  the  south  side,  are  whitened  witli 
incrustations  of  fine  white  salt ;  the  shallow 
arms  of  the  lake,  at  the  same  time,  under  a 
sliglit  covering  of  briny  water,  present  beds 
of  salt  for  miles,  resembling  softened  ice,  into 
which  the  horses'  feet  sink  to  the  fetlock. 
Plants  and  bushes,  blown  by  the  wind  upon 
these  fields,  are  entirely  incrusted  with  crys- 
tallized salt,  more  than  an  inch  in  thickness. 
Upon  this  lake  of  salt  the  fresh  water  received, 
though  great  in  quantity,  has  no  perceptible 
effect.  No  fish,  or  animal  life  of  any  kind,  is 
found  in  it;  the /ar»a  on  the  shore  being  found 
to  belong  to  winged  insects.  A  geological 
examination  of  the  bed  and  shores  of  this  lake 
is  of  the  highest  interest. 

Five  gallons  of  water  taken  from  this  lake 
in  the  month  of  September,  and  roughly 
evaporated  over  a  fire,  gave  fourteen  pints  of 
salt,  a  part  ofwhich  being  subjected  to  analysis, 
gave  the  following  proportions: — 

Chloride  of  podlum  (common  eolt) 97.80  parts, 

Cliloride  of  calcium o.Cl 

Chloricle  of  maKnci<ium o.ii4      " 

Sulpliate  of  ao<ia o.'.':j      '• 

^uli)ha.te  of  limu n^      >• 


100.00 

Southward  from  the  Utah  is  another  lake  of 
which  little  more  is  now  known  than  when 
Humboldt  published  his  general  map  of  Mex- 
ico. It  is  the  reservoir  of  a  handsome  river, 
about  two  hundred  miles  long,  rising  in  the 
\yah-satch  mountains,  and  discharging  a  con- 
siderable volume  of  water.  The  river  and 
lake  were  called  by  the  Spaniards,  Scvero,  cor- 
rupted by  the  hunters  into  Secier.  On  the 
map,  they  are  called  Nicollet,  in  honour  of 


J.  N.  Nicollet,  whose  premature  death  inter- 
rupted the  publication  of  the  learned  work  on 
the  physical  geography  of  the  basin  of  the 
Upper  Mississippi,  which  five  years  of  labour 
in  the  field  had  prepared  him  to  give. 

On  the  western  side  of  the  basin,  and  im- 
mediately within  the  first  range  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada,  is  the  Pyramid  Lake,  receiving  the 
water  of  Salmon  Trout  River.  It  is  thirty-five 
miles  long,  between  four  and  five  thousand 
feet  above  the  sea,  surrounded  by  mountains, 
is  remarkably  deep  and  clear,  and  abounds  with 
uncommonly  large  salmon  trout.  Southward, 
along  the  base  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  is  a 
range  of  considerable  lakes,  formed  by  many 
large  streams  from  the  Sierra.  Lake  Walker, 
the  largest  among  these,  affords  great  numbers 
of  trout,  similar  to  those  of  the  Pyramid  Lake, 
and  is  a  place  of  resort  for  Indians  in  the  fish- 
ing season. 

There  are  probably  other  collections  of 
water  not  yet  known.  The  number  of  small 
lakes  is  very  great,  many  of  them  more  or  less 
salty,  and  all,  like  the  rivers  which  feed  them, 
changing  their  appearance  and  extent  under 
the  influence  of  the  season,  rising  with  the 
melting  of  the  snows,  sinking  in  the  dry 
weather,  and  distinctly  presenting  their  high 
and  low  water-mark.  These  generally  afford 
some  fertile  and  well-watered  land,  capable 
of  settlement. 

Rivers  of  the  Great  Basin, — The  most  con- 
siderable river  in  the  interior  of  the  Great 
Basin  is  the  one  called  on  the  map  Humboldt 
River,  as  the  mountains  at  its  head  are  called 
Iliiiiibuldt  River  Mountains — so  called  as  a 
small  mark  of  respect  to  the  '^  Ntalor  of  scieu- 
t!f,c  travellers,''^  who  has  done  so  much  to  illus- 
trate North  American  geography,  without 
leaving  his  name  upon  any  one  of  its  remark- 
able features.  It  is  a  river  long  known  to 
hunters,  and  sometimes  sketched  on  maps 
under  the  name  of  Mary's  or  Ogden's,  but 
now  for  the  first  time  laid  down  with  any 
precision.  It  is  a  very  peculiar  stream,  and 
has  many  characteristics  of  an  Asiatic  river — 
the  .Fordan,  for  example,  though  twice  as  long 
— rising  in  mountains  and  losing  itself  in  a 
lake  of  its  own,  after  a  long  and  solitary 
course.  It  rises  in  two  streams  in  mountains 
west  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  which  unite,  after 
some  fifty  miles,  and  bears  westwardly  along 
tiie  northern  side  of  the  basin  towards  the 
Great  Sierra  Nevada,  which  it  is  destined 
never  to  reach,  much  less  to  pass.  The  moun- 
tains in  which  it  rises  are  round  and  hand- 
some in  their  outline,  capped  with  snow  the 
greater  part  of  the  year,  well  clothed  with 
grass  and  wood,  and  abundant  in  water.  The 
stream  is  a  narrow  line,  without  affluents, 
losing  by  aosorplion  and  evaporation  as  it 
goes,  and  terminating  in  a  marshy  lake,  with 
low  shores,  fringed  with  bulrushes,  and 
whitened  with  saline  incrustations.  It  has  a 
moderate  current,  is  from  two  to  six  |-eet  decj) 
in  tlie  dry  season,  and  probably  not  iordable 
anywhere  below  the  junction  of  the  forks 
during  the  time  of  melting  snows,  when  botli 
lake  and  river  are  conaideruhly  enlarged.    'J'hu 


y 


Bountrjr  th 
immediate 
ut  grass, 
700  feet  (i 
above  the 
broken  ran 
a  few  mill 
immediate 
■  covered  w 
jand  other 
^jis  marked 
*|low  and  c 
.jTi.e  Indiat 
••  destroy  all 
i  the  water. 
f     This  rive 
I  progress  of 
.;  fame.     It  1 
nia  and  0 
\  known  thrc 
j  travelled 
V  cast  and  w 
I  It   furnish 
i  nearly  thre 
.*  supply  of  ' 
%  wood,  and 
^  Great  Salt 
I  the  Mormo 
,|  point  in  tl 
\  and  the  lo 
within  fift 
Nevada,  an 

Siass — a  pa; 
eet  above 
half  that  i 
leading  in 
some  forty 
These  prof 
ive  value  i 
Pacific  Oc 
north  of  th 
present  tra 
from  the  st 
to  the  Bay 
Theothe 
are  found  o 
waters  fron 
roimd  it,  ar 
rising  in  th 
Mountains 
Lake,  after 
and  pictun 
long.  2.  ' 
or  Timpani 
the  Utah  I 
their  copioi 
the  Wall-Si 

.'<.   NiCOUjE 

r;mge  of  th( 
into  a  lake 
arable  and 
in  length, 
1.  Salmon 
tiing  down 
into  Pyraiu 
hundred  mi 
third  of  its 
country,  ar 
through  vei 


GEOGRAPHICAL  MEIIOIR. 


9 


death  inter- 
:ned  work  on 
basin  of  the 
ars  of  labour 
rive.  ^ 

isin,  ami  ini- 
of  the  Sierra 
•pceiving  the 
;  is  thirty-live 
ivc  thousand 
y  mountains, 
abounds  with 

Southward, 
'Nevada,  is  a 
led  by  many 
iske  Walker, 
reat  numbers 
yrnmid  Lake, 
IS  in  the  fish- 

)llections  of 
iber  of  small 

more  or  less 
ill  feed  them, 
extent  under 
ing  with  the 

in  the  dry 
ig  tiieir  high 
nerally  afford 
and,  capable 

e  most  con- 

of  the  Great 

ip  Humboldt 

ad  are  called 

called  as  a 

nlor  of  scieu- 

uucb  to  illus- 

hy,   without 

;'  its  remark- 

;  known  to 

d   on   maps 

)gden's,  but 

n  with  any 

stream,  and 

iiatic  river — 

wice  as  long 

T  itself  in  a 

and   solitary 

n  mountains 

h  unite,  after 

vardly  along 

towards  the 

is  destined 

The  moun- 

und  hand- 
h  snow  the 
lothed  with 
vater.  The 
It  afllueuts, 
•ation  as  it 
f  lake,  witii 
uahes,  and 
i.  It  has  a 
ix  feet  deep 
not  I'ordable 

the   forks 
when  botli 
liined.    The 


ountry  through  which  it  passes  (except  its 

mmediate  valley)  is  a  dry  sandy  plain,  with- 

ut  grass,  wood,  or  arable  soil ;  from  about 

[4700  feet  (at  the  forks)  to  4200  feet  (at  the  lake) 

above  the  level  of  the  sea,  winding  among 

\  broken  ranges  of  mountains,  and  varying  from 
a  few  miles  to  twenty  in  breadth.     Its  own 
.immediate  valley  is  a  rich  alluvion,  beautifully 
[.covered  with  blue  grass,  herd  grass,  clover, 
land  other  nutritious  grasses;  and  its  course 
^ijis  marked  through  the  plain  by  a  line  of  wil- 
^jflow  and  cotton-wood  trees,  servingr  for  fuel- 


f  Ti»e  Indians  in  the  fall  set  fire  to  the  grass  and 
!•  destroy  all  trees  except  in  low  grounds  near 
y  the  water. 

I  This  river  possesses  qualities  which,  in  the 
I  progress  of  events,  may  give  it  both  value  and 
:  fame.  It  lies  on  the  line  of  travel  to  Califor- 
nia and  Oregon,  and  is  the  best  route  now 
'\  known  through  the  Great  Basin,  and  the  one 
I  travelled  by  emigrants.  Its  direction,  nearly 
V  cast  and  west,  is  the  right  route  for  that  travel. 
I  It  furnishes  a  level  unobstructed  way  for 
I  nearly  three  hundred  miles,  and  a  continuous 
;»!  supply  of  the  indispensable  articles  of  water, 
1i  wood,  and  grass.  Its  head  is  towards  the 
I  Great  Salt  Lake,  and  consequently  towards 
I  the  Mormon  settlement,  which  must  become  a 
I  point  in  the  line  of  emigration  to  California 
and  the  lower  Columbia.  Its  termination  is 
within  fifty  miles  of  the  base  of  the  Sierra  I 
Nevada,  and  opposite  the  Salmon  Trout  River  | 
pass — a  pass  only  seven  thousand  two  hundred 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  less  than 
half  that  above  the  level  of  the  Basin,  and 
leading  into  the  valley  of  the  Sacramento, 
some  forty  miles  north  of  Nueva  Helvetia. 
These  properties  give  to  this  river  .  prospect- 
ive value  in  future  communications  with  the 
Pacific  Ocean,  and  the  profile  view  on  the 
north  of  the  map  shows  the  elevations  of  the 
present  travelling  route,  of  which  it  is  a  part, 
from  the  south  pass  in  the  Rocky  Mour'tains 
to  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco. 

The  other  principal  rivers  of  the  Great  Basin 
are  found  on  its  circumference,  collecting  their 
waters  from  the  Snowy  Mountains,  which  sur- 
round it,  and  are,  1.  Bear  River,  on  the  east, 
rising  in  the  massive  range  of  theTimpanogos 
Mountains  and  falling  into  the  Great  Salt 
Lake,  after  a  doubling  course  through  a  fertile 
and  picturesque  valley,  two  hundred  miles 
long.  2.  The  Utah  River,  and  Timpanaozu 
or  TiMPANOGOs,  discharging  themselves  into 
the  Utah  Lake  on  the  east,  after  gathering 
their  copious  streams  in  the  adjoining  parts  of 
the  Wah-satch  and  Timpanogos  Mountains. 
.'<.  Nicollet  River,  rising  south  in  the  long 
r.inge  of  the  Wah-satch  IWountaMis,  and  falling 
into  a  lake  of  its  own  name,  af';r  making  an 
iirable  and  grassy  valley,  two  hundred  miles 
ill  length,  through  mountainous  country. 
1.  Salmon  Trout  River,  on  the  west,  run- 
ning down  from  the  Sierra  Nevada,  and  falling 
into  Pyramid  Lake,  after  a  course  of  about  one 
liundred  miles.  From  its  source,  about  one- 
third  of  its  valley  is  through  a  pine  timbered 
country,  and  for  the  remainder  of  the  way 
through  very  rocky,  naked  ridges.  It  is  re- 
2 


markable  for  the  abundance  and  excellence  of 
its  salmon  trout,  and  presents  some  ground 
for  cultivation.  5.  Carson  and  Walker  Ri- 
vers, both  handsome  clear-water  streams, 
nearly  one  hundred  miles  long,  coming,  like 
the  preceding,  down  the  eastern  flank  of  the 
Sierra  Nevada,  and  forming  lakes  of  their  own 
name  at  its  base.  They  contain  salmon  trout 
and  other  fish,  and  form  some  large  bottoms 
of  good  land.  6.  Owens  River,  issuing  from 
the  Sierra  Nevada  on  the  south,  is  a  large 
bold  stream,  about  one  hundred  and  twenty 
miles  long,  gathering  its  waters  in  the  Sierta 
Nevada,  flowing  to  the  southward,  and  form- 
ing a  lake  about  fifteen  miles  long  at  the  base 
of  the  mountain.  At  a  medium  stage  it  is 
generally  four  or  five  feet  deep,  in  places  fifteen ; 
wooded  with  willow  and  cotton-wood,  and 
makes  continuous  bottoms  of  fertile  land,  at 
intervals  rendered  marshy  by  springs  and 
small  affluents  from  the  mountain.  The  water 
of  the  lake  in  which  it  terminates  has  an  un- 
pleasant smell  and  bad  taste,  but  around  its 
shores  are  found  small  streams  of  pure  water, 
with  good  grass.  On  the  map  this  has  been 
called  Owens  River. 

Besides  these  principal  rivers  issuing  from 
the  mountains  on  tlie  circumference  of  the 
Great  Basin,  there  are  many  others,  all  around, 
all  obeying  the  general  law  of  losing  them- 
selves in  sands,  or  lakes,  or  belts  of  alluvion, 
and  almost  all  of  them  an  index  to  some  arable 
land,  W'ith  grass  and  wood. 

Interior  of  the  Great  Basin. — The  interior 
of  the  Great  Basin,  so  far  as  explored,  is  found 
to  be  a  succession  of  sharp  mountain  ranges 
and  naked  plains,  such  as  have  been  described. 
These  ranges  are  isolated,  presenting  summit 
lines  broken  into  many  peaks,  of  which  the 
highest  are  between  ten  and  eleven  thousand 
feet  above  the  sea.  They  are  thinly  wooded 
with  some  varieties  of  pine,  {pinus  monophyllus 
characteristic,)  cedar,  aspen,  and  a  few  other 
trees;  and  affora  an  excellent  quality  of  bunch 
grass,  equal  to  any  found  in  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains. Black-tailed  deer  and  mountain  sheep 
are  frequent  in  these  mountains ;  which,  in 
consideration  of  their  grass,  water  and  wood, 
and  the  alluvion  at  their  base,  may  be  called 
fertile,  in  the  radical  sense  of  the  word,  as 
signifying  a  capacity  to  produce,  or  bciir,  and 
in  contradistinction  to  sterility.  In  this  sense 
these  interior  mountains  may  be  called  fertile. 
Sterility,  on  the  contrary,  is  the  absolute 
characteristic  of  the  valleys  between  the  moun- 
tains— no  wood,  no  watp'.  no  grass;  the 
gloomy  artemisia  the  pr  iiling  shrub — no 
animals,  except  the  hares,  which  shelter  in 
these  shrubs,  and  fleet  and  timid  antelope, 
always  on  the  watch  for  danger,  and  finding 
no  place  too  dry  and  barren  which  gives  it  a 
wicle  horizon  for  its  view  and  a  clear  field  for 
its  flight.  No  birds  are  seen  in  the  plains, 
and  few  on  the  mountains.  But  few  Indians 
are  found,  and  those  in  the  lowest  state  of 
human  existence ;  living  not  even  in  commu- 
nities, but  in  the  elementary  state  of  families, 
and  sometimes  a  single  individual  to  himself 
— except  about  the  lakes  stocked  wiiu  fish, 


■K  si.:' 


f 


10 


GEOGRAPHICAL  MFMOIR 


which  become  the  property  and  resort  of  a 
small  tribe.  The  abundance  and  excellence 
of  the  fish,  in  most  of  these  lakes,  is  a  charac- 
teristic ;  and  the  fishing  season  is  to  the  In- 
dians the  happy  season  of  the  year. 

Climate  of  the  Great  Basin. — The  climate  of 
the  Great  Basin  does  not  present  the  rigorous 
winter  due  to  its  elevation  and  mountainous 
structure.  Observations  made  during  the  last 
expedition,  show  that  around  the  southern 
shores  of  the  Salt  Lake,  latitude  40°  SC,  to 
41°,  for  two  weeks  of  the  month  of  October, 
1845,  from  the  13th  to  the  27th,  the  mean 
temperature  was  40°  at  sunrise,  70°  at  noon, 
and  54°  at  sunset;  ranging  at  sunrise,  from 
28°  to  57° ;  at  noon,  from  02°  to  76° ;  at  four 
in  the  afternoon,  from  58°  to  69° ;  and  at  sun- 
set, from  47°  to  57°. 

tfntil  the  middle  of  the  month  the  weather 
remained  fair  and  very  pleasant.  On  the  15th, 
it  began  to  rain  in  occasional  showers,  which 
whitened  with  snow  the  tops  of  the  mountains 
on  the  south-east  side  of  the  lake  valley. 
Flowers  were  in  bloom  during  all  the  month. 
About  the  18th,  on  one  of  the  large  islands  in 
the  south  of  the  lake,  helianthus,  several  species 
of  aster,  erodium  cicutarium,  and  several  other 
plants,  were  in  fresh  and  full  bloom;  the 
grass  of  the  second  growth  was  coming  up 
finely,  and  vegetation,  generally,  betokened 
the  lengthened  summer  of  the  climate. 

The  16th,  17th,  and  18th,  stormy  with  rain; 
heavy  at  night;  peaks  of  the  Bear  River 
range  and  tops  of  the  mountains  covered  with 
snow.  On  the  18th,  cleared  with  weather 
like  that  of  late  spring,  and  continued  mild 
and  clear  until  the  end  of  the  month,  when 
the  fine  weather  was  again  interrupted  by  a 
day  or  two  of  rain.  No  snow  within  2000 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  valley. 

Across  the  interior,  between  latitudes  41° 
and  38°,  during  the  month  of  November, 
(5th  to  25th,)  the  mean  temperature  was  29° 
at  sunrise,  and  40°  at  sunset;  ranging  at  noon 
(by  detached  observations)  between  41°  and 
60°.  There  was  a  snow-storm  between  the 
4th  and  7th,  the  snow  falling  principally  at 
night,  and  sun  occasionally  breaking  out  in 
the  day.  The  lower  hills  and  valleys  were 
covered  a  few  inches  deep  with  snow,  which 
the  sun  carried  off  in  a  few  hours  after  the 
storm  was  over. 

The  weather  then  continued  uninterruptedly 
open  until  the  close  of  the  year,  without  rain 
or  snow ;  and  during  the  remainder  of  Novem- 
ber, generally  clear  and  beautiful ;  nights  and 
mornings  calm,  a  light  breeze  during  the  day, 
and  strong  winds  of  very  rare  occurrence. 
Snow  remained  only  on  the  peaks  of  the 
mountains. 

On  the  western  side  of  the  basin,  along  the 
base  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  during  two  weeks, 
from  the  25th  November  to  the  11th  Decem- 
ber, the  mean  temperature  at  sunrise  was  1 1°, 
and  at  sunset  34° ;  ranging  at  sunrise  from 
zero  to  21°,  and  at  sunset  from  23°  to  44°. 
For  ten  consecutive  days  of  the  same  period, 
the  mean  temperature  at  noon  was  45°,  rang- 
ing from  33°  to  56°. 


The  weather  remained  open,  nsually  very 
clear,  and  the  rivers  were  frozen. 

The  winter  of  l&43-'44,  within  the  basin, 
was  remarkable  for  the  same  open,  pleasant 
weather,  rarely  interrupted  by  rain  or  snow. 
In  fact,  there  is  nothing  in  the  climate  of  this 
great  interior  region,  elevated  as  it  is,  and  sur- 
rounded and  traversed  by  snowy  mountains,  to 
Erevent  civilized  man  from  making  it  his 
ome,  and  finding  in  its  arable  parts  the  means 
of  a  comfortable  subsistence ;  and  this  the 
Mormons  will  probably  soon  prove  in  the 
parts  about  the  Great  Salt  Lake.  The  pro- 
gress  of  their  settlement  is  already  great.  On 
the  first  of  April,  1848,  they  had  3000  acres 
in  wheat,  seven  saw  and  grist  mills,  seven 
hundred  houses  in  a  fortified  enclosure  of  sixty 
acres,  stock,  and  other  accompaniments  of  a 
flourishing  settlement. 

Such  is  the  Great  Basin,  heretofore  character- 
ized as  a  desert,  and  in  some  respects  merit- 
ing that  appellation ;  but  already  demanding 
the  qualification  of  great  exceptions,  and  de- 
serving the  full  examination  of  a  thorough 
exploration 

MARITIME  RFGION  WEST  OF  THE 
SIERRA  NEVADA. 


West  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  and  betwec?n 
that  mountain  and  the  sea,  is  the  second  grand 
division  of  California,  and  the  only  part  to 
which  the  name  applies  in  the  current  lan- 
guage of  the  country.  It  is  the  occupied  and  J 
inhabited  part,  and  so  different  in  character — 
so  divided  by  the  mountain  wall  of  the  Sierra 
from  the  Great  Basin  above — as  to  constitute 
a  region  to  itself,  with  a  structure  and  con- 
figuration, a  soil,  climate,  and  productions,  of 
its  own  ;  and  as  northern  Persia  may  be  refer- 
red to  as  some  type  of  the  former,  so  may 
Italy  be  referred  to  as  some  point  of  compari- 
son for  the  latter.  North  and  south,  this 
region  embraces  about  ten  degrees  of  latitude — 
from  32°,  where  it  touches  the  peninsula  of 
California,  to  42°,  where  it  bounds  on  Ore- 
gon. East  and  west,  from  the  Sierra  Nevada^ 
to  the  sea,  it  will  average,  in  the  middle  parts, 
150 miles;  in  the  northern  parts,  200 — giving 
an  area  of  about  100,000  square  miles.  Looking 
westward  from  the  summit  of  the  Sierra,  the 
main  feature  presented  is  the  long,  low,  broad 
valley  of  the  Joaquin  and  Sacramento  Rivers 
— the  two  valleys  forming  one — five  hundred 
miles  long  and  fifty  broad,  lying  along  the 
base  of  the  Sierra,  and  bounded  to  the  west 
by  the  low  coast  range  of  mountains,  which 
separates  it  from  the  sea.  Long  dark  lines  of 
timber  indicate  the  streams,  and  bright  spots 
mark  the  intervening  plains.  Lateral  ranges, 
parallel  to  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  the  coast, 


th  a  gen< 
s  of  onlj 
the  sea- 
all  of  the  I 
assumed 
he  inhabi 
e  Atlantic 
ifficulty  c( 
reductions 
laritime  r 
ingular  be 
louth  of  th 
oldt  as  a  r 
ealize  the  i 
The  pres 
ut  slight  d 
he  agricul 
oil.  Vane 
uenaventu 
ears,  plum 
nd  pomegr 
lantain,  b: 
ndigo,  all 
f  excellent 
live  oil  of 
alusia,  and 
stands.  A 
igh  and  vr 
ttained  at  t 
aternal  adi 
ocile  chai 
vailable  foi 
loyed  in  i 
ineyards. 
ler  cultiva 
re  overgro' 
nd  olive  or( 
mong  the 
laces  do  w 
ountry  is  ci 
'ound  the  ( 
nder  the  w 
ission  of  I 
till  disting 
ives,  consi 
if  the  Medit 
The  produ 
fthenortha 
ndian  corn, 
ssimilated 
leen  recentl 
luramer  hea 
ind  is  unintf 
outhern  cc 
Vheat  is  th« 
always  coi 
the  miss 


:rain-growin 
oisture  of  t 
the  potatc 
0  the  Unite( 


} 


make  the  structure  of  the  country  and  break    idinary  size 


it  into  a  surface  of  valleys  and  mountains— 
the  valleys  a  few  hundred,  and  the  mountains 
two  to  four  thousand  feet  above  tne  sea 
These  form  greater  masses,  and  become  more 
elevated  in  the  north,  where  some  peaks,  as 
the  Shastl,  enter  the  regions  of  perpetual  snow. 
Stretched  along  the  mUd  coast  of  the  Pacific, 


■"•^-f  '1^t*«4SMlMM 


n 


Perhaps  fe 
such  perf 
nd  grains  at 
losing  the  I 
y  its  waters 
at  region  a: 
Ag  the  entin 


GEOGRAPHICAL  MEMOIR. 


II 


nsually  very 

lin  the  basin, 
•pen,  pleasant^ 
ain  or  snow, 
ilimate  of  this 
it  is,  and  sur- 
mountains,  to 
laking  it  his 
arts  the  means 
and  this  the 
prove  in  the 
:e.  The  pro- 
dy  great.  On 
td  3000  acres 
mills,  seven 
losure  of  sixty 
liniments  of  a 

fore  character- 
espects  merit- 
ly  demanding 
tions,  and  de- 
)f  a  thorough 


IT  OF  THE 
A. 

and  between 
e  second  grand 
;  only  part  to 
e  current  Ian- 
)  occupied  and 
in  character — 
1  of  the  Sierra 
s  to  constitute 
ture  and  con- 
roductions,  of 

may  be  refer- 
)rmer,  so  may 
nt  of  compari- 
south,  this 
s  of  latitude — 

peninsula  of 
lunds  on  Ore- 
Sierra  Nevada 
3  middle  parts, 
1,  200 — giving 
iles.  Looking 
;he  Sierra,  the 
ng,  low,  broad 
imento  Rivers 
—five  hundred 
ing  along  the 
to  the  west 
intains,  which 

dark  lines  of 
1  bright  spots 
ateral  ranges, 
ind  the  coast, 
itry  and  break 

mountains— 
the  mountains 
ove    the   sea. 

become  more 
sme  peaks,  as 
erpetual  snow, 
of  the  Pacific, 


ith  a  general  elevation  in  its  plains  and  val- 
BTS  of  only  a  few  hundred  feet  above  the  level 
if  the  sea — and  backed  by  the  long  and  lofty 
fd\\  of  the  Sierra — mildness  and  geniality  may 
le  assumed  as  the  characteristic  of  its  climate, 
'he  inhabitant  of  corresponding  latitudes  on 
;he  Atlantic  side  of  this  continent  can  with 
ifficulty  conceive  of  the  soft  air  and  southern 
reductions  under  the  same  latitudes  in  the 
laritimo  region  of  Upper  California.  The 
ingular  beauty  and  purity  of  the  sky  in  the 
outh  of  this  region  is  characterized  by  Hum- 
oldt  as  a  rare  phenomenon,  and  all  travellers 
ealize  the  truth  of  his  description. 
:/:■  The  present  condition  of  the  country  affords 
ut  slight  data  for  forming  correct  opinions  of 
he  agricultural  capacity  and  fertility  of  the 
oil.  Vancouver  found,  at  the  mission  of  San 
uenaventura,  in  1' 92,  latitude  34°  16',  apples, 
ears,  plums,  figs,  oranges,  grapes,  peaches, 
nd  pomegranates  growing  together  with  the 
lantain,  banana,  cocoa-nut,  sugar-cane,  and 
ndigo,  all  yielding  fruit  in  abundance,  and 
f  excellent  quality.  Humboldt  mentions  the 
live  oil  of  California  as  equal  to  that  of  An- 
alusia,  and  the  wine  like  that  of  the  Canary 
slands.  At  present,  but  little  remains  of  the 
igh  and  various  cultivation  which  had  been 
ttained  at  the  missions.  Under  the  mild  and 
aternal  administration  of  the  " Fathers"  the 
ocile  character  of  the  Indians  was  made 
vailable  for  labour,  and  thousands  were  em- 
loyed  in  the  fields,  the  orchards,  and  the 
ineyards.  At  present,  but  little  of  this  for- 
ler  cultivation  is  seen.  The  fertile  valleys 
re  overgrown  with  wild  mustard  ;  vineyards 
nd  olive  orchards,  decayed  and  neglected,  are 
mong  the  remaining  vestiges ;  only  in  some 
laces  do  we  see  the  evidences  of  what  the 
ountry  is  capable.  At  San  Buenaventura  we 
bund  the  olive  trees,  in  January,  bending 
nder  the  weight  of  neglected  fruit ;  and  the 
ission  of  San  Luis  Obispo  (latitude  35°)  is 
till  distinguished  for  the  excellence  of  its 
lives,  considered  finer  and  larger  than  those 
f  the  Mediterranean. 

The  productions  of  the  south  differ  from  those 
f  the  north  and  of  the  middle.  Grapes,  olives, 
ndian  corn,  have  been  its  staples,  with  many 
ssimilated  fruits  and  grains.  Tobacco  has 
een  recently  introduced ;  and  the  uniform 
lummer  heat  which  follows  the  wet  season, 
nd  is  uninterrupted  by  rain,  would  make  the 
louthem  country  well  adapted  to  cotton, 
heat  is  the  first  product  of  the  north,  where 
t  always  constituted  the  principal  cultivation 
the  missions.  This  promises  to  be  the 
rain-growing  region  of  California.  The 
loisture  of  the  coast  seems  particularly  suited 
9  the  potato  and  to  the  vegetables  common 
a  the  United  States,  which  grow  to  an  extra- 
rdinary  size. 
Perhaps  few  parts  of  the  world  can  produce 
s  such  perfection  so  great  a  variety  of  fruits 
nd  grains  as  the  large  and  various  region  en- 
losing  the  Bay  of  ^n  Francisco  and  drained 
y  its  waters.  A  view  of  the  map  will  show 
lat  region  and  its  great  extent,  comprehend- 
)g  the  entire  valleys  of  the  Sucramento  and 


San  Joaquin,  and  the  whole  western  slope  of 
the  Sierra  Nevada.  General  phrases  fail  to 
give  precise  ideasj  and  I  have  recourse  to  the 
notes  in  my  journal  to  show  its  climate  and 
productions  by  the  test  of  the  thermometer 
and  the  state  of  the  vegetable  kingdom. 

VALLEYS  OF  THE  SACRAMENTO 
AND  SAN  JOAQUIN. 

These  valleys  are  one,  discriminated  only 
by  the  names  of  the  rivers  which  traverse  it. 
It  is  a  single  valley — a  single  geographical 
formation — near  500  miles  long.  Tying  at  the 
western  base  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  and  be- 
tween it  and  the  coast  range  of  mountains, 
and  stretching  across  the  head  of  the  Bay  of 
San  Francisco,  with  which  a  delta  of  twenty- 
five  miles  connects  it.  The  two  rivers,  San 
Joaquin  and  Sacramento,  rise  at  opposite  ends 
of  this  long  valley,  receive  numerous  streams, 
many  of  them  bold  rivers,  from  the  Sierra 
Nevada,  become  themselves  navigable  rivers, 
flow  toward  each  other,  meet  halfway,  and 
enter  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  together,  in 
the  region  of  tide-water,  making  a  continuous 
water  line  from  one  end  to  the  other. 

The  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin  is  about  300 
miles  long  and  CO  broad,  between  the  slopes 
of  the  coast  mountain  and  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
with  a  general  elevation  of  only  a  few  hun- 
dred feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It  pre- 
sents a  variety  of  soil,  from  dry  and  unpro- 
ductive to  well  watered  and  luxuriantly  fertile. 
The  eastern  (which  is  the  fertile)  side  of  the 
valley  is  intersected  with  numerous  streams, 
forming  large  and  very  beautiful  bottoms  of 
fertile  land,  wooded  principally  with  white 
oaks  {quercua  longiglanda,  Torr.  and  Frem.) 
in  open  groves  of  handsome  trees,  often  five  or 
six  feet  in  diameter,  and  sixty  to  eighty  feet 
high.  Only  the  larger  streams,  wnich  are 
fifty  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  wide,  and 
drain  the  upper  parts  of  the  mountains,  pass 
entirely  across  the  valley,  forming  the  Tulare 
Lakes  and  the  San  Joaquin  River,  which,  in 
the  rainy  season,  make  a  continuous  stream 
from  the  head  of  the  valley  to  the  bay.  The 
foot  kills  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  which  limit 
the  valley,  make  a  woodland  country,  diver- 
sified with  undulating  grounds  and  pretty  val- 
leys, and  watered  with  numerous  small 
streams,  which  reach  only  a  few  miles  beyond 
the  hills,  the  springs  which  supply  them  not 
being  copious  enough  to  carry  them  across 
the  plains.  These  afford  many  advantageous 
spots  for  farms,  making  sometimes  large  bot- 
toms of  rich  moist  '.and.  The  rolling  surface 
of  the  hills  presents  sunny  exposures,  shel- 
tered from  the  winds,  and  having  a  highly 
favourable  climate  and  suitable  soil,  are  con- 
sidered to  be  well  adapted  to  the  cultivation 
of  the  grape,  and  will  probably  become  the 
principal  vine-growing  region  of  California. 
The  uplands  bordering  the  valleys  of  the 
large  streams  are  usually  wooded  with  ever- 
gre'en  oaks,  and  the  intervening  plains  are 
timbered  with  groves  or  belts  of  evergreen  and 
white  oaks  among  prairie  and  open  land.  The 


^a 


mm 


IS 


GEOGRAPHICAL  MEMOIR. 


i'.i 


i 

a 


surface  of  the  valley  consists  of  level  plains 
along  the  Tulare  Lakes  and  San  Joaquin 
River,  changing  into  undulating  and  rolling 
ground  nearer  the  foot  hills  of  the  moun- 
tains. 

A  condensed  notice  from  observations,  made 
during  several  journeys  titrough  tho  valley, 
will  serve  to  give  some  definite  ideas  of  its 
climate  and  character. 

We  left  the  upper  settlements  of  New  Hel 
vetia  on  the  14th  December,  and,  passing 
through  the  groves  of  oak  which  border  the 
Rio  de  los  Americanos,  directed  our  course 
in  a  south-eas'erly  direction  across  a  plain 
toward  the  Rio  de  los  Cos-um-nes,  a  hand- 
some, well  wooded  stream,  about  thirty  yards 
■wide.  The  Cos-um-ne  Indians,  who  give 
name  to  this  river,  have  been  driven  away 
from  it  within  a  few  years,  and  dispersed 
among  other  tribes;  and  several  forms,  of 
some  leagues  in  extent,  have  already  been 
established  on  the  lower  part  of  the  stream. 
We  encamped  at  one  of  these,  about  eight 
miles  above  the  junction  of  the  C6s-uni-ne 
River  with  the  Mo-kel-um-ne,  which,  a  few 
miles  below,  enters  a  deep  slough  in  the  tide- 
water of  the  San  Joaquin  deUa. 

At  this  place  the  temperature  at  sunset  was 
55°,  and  at  sunrise  -27°. 

Oar  road  on  the  lotli  was  over  the  plain 
between  the  Cos-um-ne  and  Mo-kci-um-ne 
Rivers,  inclining  toward  the  mouutains.  We 
crossed  several  wooded  sloughs,  with  ponds 
of  deep  water,  which,  nearer  ti\e  foot  hills,  are 
running  streams,  with  large  bottoms  of  fertile 
land ;  the  greater  part  of  our  way  being 
through  open  woods  of  evergreen  and  other 
oakb.  The  rainy  season,  which  commonly 
begins  with  November,  had  not  yet  com- 
menced, and  the  Mo-kel-um-ne  River  was  at 
tb  ,  low  stage  usual  to  the  dry  season,  and 
easily  forded.  This  stream  is  about  sixty 
yards  wide,  and  the  immediate  valley  some 
thirty  or  forty  feet  below  the  upland  plain.  It 
has  broad  alluvial  bottoms  of  very  fertile  soil — 
sometimes  five  hundred  yards  wide,  bounded 
by  a  low  upland,  wooded  with  evergreen  oaks. 
The  weather  in  the  evening  was  calm,  the  sky 
mottled  with  clouds,  and  the  temperature  at 
sunset  52'-'. 

Leaving  the  Mo-kel-um-ne,  (December  16,) 
we  travelled  about  twenty  miles  through  open 
woods  of  white  oak,  crossing  in  the  way 
several  stream  beds — among  them  the  Cala- 
veras creek.  These  have  abundant  water, 
with  good  land  above;  and  the  Calaveras 
makes  some  remarkably  handsome  bottoms. 
Issuing  from  the  woods,  we  rode  about  sixteen 
miles  over  an  open  prairie,  partly  covered  with 
bunch  grass,  the  timber  reappearing  on  the 
rolling  .'ills  of  the  river  Stanislaus  in  the 
usual  belt  of  evergreen  oaks.  The  river  valley 
was  about  forty  feet  below  the  upland,  and  the 
stream  seventy  yards  broad,  making  the  usual 
fertile  bottoms,  which  here  were  covered  with 
green  grass  among  large  oaks.  We  encamped 
ill  one  of  these  bottoms,  in  a  grove  of  the  large 
while  oaks  previously  mentioned  as  quercus 
longiglanda,  (Torr.  aud  Frem. )    This  oak  is  a 


San  Jo 

es  up  the 

,  the  hea 

Lake  Fo 

e  encai 

where 

a  narrc 

s  a  low,  I 

r  which  i 

8  slowly 

iding  as  tl 

December 

ar  and  ph 

a   south-i 

d  hilly  CO 


new  species,  belonging  to  the  division  of  wHlte 
oaks,  distinguished  by  the  length  of  its  acorn, 
which  is  commonly  an  inch  and  a  half^  undi 
sometimes    two    inches.      This    long   aco 
characterizes  the  tree,  which  has  according 
been  specified  by  Dr.  Torrey  l^s  quercus  /oh^ 
glanda — (long-acorn  oak.*)     The  tree  attains; 
frequently  a  diameter  of  six  feet,  and  a  height 
of  eighty  feet,  with  a  wide-spreading  head 
The  many  varieties  of  deciduous  aud  evergreer, 
oaks,  which  predominate  throughout  the  val- 
leys and  lower  hills  of  the  mountains,  afTord 
large  quantities   of  acorns,  which  constitute! 
the  principal  food  of  the  Indians  of  that  re- 
gion.    Their  great  abundance,  in  the  mids: 
of  fine  pasture  lands,  must  make  thrm  an  im- 
portant element  in  the  agricultural  economj^g  only  sea 
of  the  country.  ,   e  occasion 

The  day  had  been  very  warm,  and  at  sunsef  de  we  reac 
the  temperature  was  55°,  and  the  weathe:<  ig  upland, 
clear  and  calm.  ipally  eve 

At  sunrise  next  morning,  the  thermometerr  Ireaius.     V 
was  at  22°,  with  a  light  wind  from  the  Sierra,!  f  Indians, 
N.  75°  E.,  and  a  clear  pure  sky,  in  which  the  eived  us  in 
blue  line  of  the  mountain  showed  distinctly!    busy  nigli 
The  way,  for  about  three  miles,  was  through  ext  mornin 
open  woods  of  evergreen  and  other  oaks,  witk'  >wer  hills. 
some   shrubbery  intermingled.     Among  tiiisi  f  sixteen  m 
was  a  lujnnus  of  extraordinary  size,  not  yet  inline  were  dri 
bloom.     Emerging  from  the  woods,  we  travel 
led  in  a  south-easterly  direction,  over  a  prairi 
of  rolling  land,  the  ground  becoming  som 
what  more  broken  as  we  approached  the  T 
vval-um-ne  River,  one  of  the  finest  tributariei 
of  the  San  Joaquin.    The  hills  were  general! 
covered  with  a  species  of  geranium,  {erodiu 
cicutarium,)  a  valuable  plant  for  stock,  co 
sidered  very  nutritious.     With  this  was  fn 
quently  interspersed  good   and   green  bund 
grass,  and  a  plant  commonly  called  bur  clovetl 
This  plant,  which  in   some  places   is  veri 
abundant,  bears  a  spirally-twisted  pod,  fill 
with   seeds,  which   remains   on  the  grouni   vind,  and  a 
during  the   dry  season,  well  preserved,  an    ably  rende 
affords  good  food  for  cattle  until  the  sprini    rom  the  ir 
rains  bring  out  new  grass.    We  started  a  baa    renerally  a 
of  wild  horses  on  approaching  the  river,  an    'alley.     El 
the  Indians  ran  oif  from  a  village  on  the  bani   naking,   or 
— the   men    lurking    round    to    observe    us    leveral  mih 
About  their  huts  were  the  usual  acorn  crih      On  the  2 
containing  each  some  twenty  or  thirty  bushels    12°. 6;  the 
Wo  found  here  excellent  grass,  and  broad  hot    !0urse  of 
toms  of  alluvial  land,  open-wooded,  with  larg    leavy  in  tl 
white  oaks  of  the  new  species.    The  thernio    i  south-eas 
meter,  at  sunset,  was  at  51°. 5,  with  a  calm   loaquin,  cr( 
clear  atmosphere.      Multitudes  of  geese  anfttream  and 
other  wild  fowl  made  the  night  noisy.  BUie  main  i 

In  the  morning,  the  sky  was  clear,  with  a^lreams,  as 
air  from  S.  55°  E.,  and  a  hoar-frost  coveri 
the  ground  like  a  light  fall  of  snow.     At  su 
the   thermometer  was  at  24°.5.      0 


if  the  expei 
ard  from  \ 
e  eastern  1 
hich  a  vail 
ake  Fork, 
eeting. 
In  the  evt 
f  1000  feet 
till  among 
g  to  the  I 
ad  been  ir 
eather ;   a 
ght  clouvls 


rise, 

course  now  inclined  more  towards  the  foot  o| 
the  mountain,  and  led  over  a  broken  countr 
In  about   seventeen    miles   we  reached  th 
River  Aux-um-ne,  another  large  affluent 


*  Tho  names  of  plants  mentioned  in  this  memoir  reatd 
tlie  authority  of  Dr.  Xorrey,  by  whom  th«  specimens  Iuii| 

betjn  cxamiuud. 


•msis,  Ab 
he  Upper 
liere  about 
eep  to  be 
lucceeded 
ed  of  rod 
he  river  at 
bllowed 

iies,  and 
erge  of  tl 
legan  to  fa 

irly  comn 


•I 


ii 


m 


ivision  of  wHtte| 
glh  of  its  acornJ 
and  a  half^ : 
lis   long   acor 
has  accordingi; 
s  qucrcus  /o/i^'f 
The  tree  attains: 
!et,  and  a  height^ 
spreading  head" 
lis  and  evcrgreerl 
ugliout  the  Vdl-' 
lountains,  afrorill 
liich  constitute 
ans  of  that  re- 
e,  in  the  mids; 
ke  thrm  an  im- 


GEOGRAPHICAL  MEMOIR. 


^ 


San  Joaquin,  and  co^.tinupd  about  six 
B  up  the  stream,  intending  to  reach,  gradu- 
the  heart  of  the  mountains  at  the  head  of 
,ake  Fork  of  the  Tulare. 
e  encamped  on  the  southern  side  of  the 
•er,  where  broken  hills  made  a  steep  bluflF, 
th  a  narrow  bottom.  On  the  northern  side 
3  a  low,  undulating  wood  and  prairie  land, 
r  which  a  band  of  about  three  hundred  elk 
i  slowly  coming  to  water  where  we  h;  :*ed, 
ling  as  they  approached. 
December  I9th. — The  weather  continued 
ar  and  pleasant.  We  continued  our  journey 
a  south-easterly  direction,  over  a  broken 
d  hilly  country,  without  timber,  and  show- 
iltural  economji  ig  only  scattered  clumps  of  trees,  from  which 
e  occasionally  started  deer.  In  a  few  hours' 
m,  and  at  sunset  de  we  reached  a  beautiful  country  of  undulat 
nd  the  \vcathe:<  ig  upland,  openly  timbered  with  oaks,  prin- 
ipally  evergreen,  and  watered  with  small 
he  thermometen  ireams.  We  came  here  among  some  villages 
from  the  Sierra,!  f  Indians,  of  the  horse-thief  tribes,  who  re- 
y,  in  which  the  eived  us  in  an  unfriendly  manner;  and,  after 


nved  distinctly. 


busy  night  among  them,  we  retreated  the 


es,  was  througt*  ext  morning  to  the  more  open  country  of  the 
other  oaks,  with'  Jwer  hills.  Our  party  was  then  a  small  one 
I.  Among  rills  f  sixteen  men,  encumbered  with  cattle,  which 
J  size,  not  yet  in  'e  were  driving  to  the  relief  of  the  main  body 
foods,  we  travel-  f  the  expedition,  which  had  been  sent  south- 
)n,  over  a  prairie  rard  from  Walker's  Lak  in  the  basin,  along 
becoming  some  le  eastern  base  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  and  to 
roaclicd  the  To  fhich  a  valley  in  the  mountain,  on  the  Tulare 
finest  tributarie:  iake  Fork,  had  been  appointed  as  a  place  of 
s  were  generallj  aeeting. 
anium,  {erodiun      In  the  evening,  we  encamped  at  an  elevation 

for  stock,  con  f  1000  feet  above  the  sea,  latitude  37°  07' 47", 
th  this  was  fre  till  among  the  hills,  on  a  spring  hollow,  lead- 
id  green  buncl  ng  to  the  Upper  Joaquin  River.  The  day 
called  bur  clover    lad  been  mild,  with  a  faint  sun  and  cloudy 

places  is  ven  reather;  and,  at  sunset,  there  were  some 
fisted  pod,  fiUei    ight  clouvis  in  the  sky,  with  a  north-easterly 

on  the  grouni  vind,  and  a  sunset  temperature  of  45° ;  pro- 
l  preserved,  aw  >ably  rendered  lower  than  usual  by  the  air 
until  the  sprini  rom  the  mountains,  as  the  foot  hills  have 
^e  started  a  ban!  renerally  a  warmer  temperature  than  the  open 
Ig  the  river,  am  ralley.  Elk  were  numerous  during  the  day, 
lage  on  the  bani  naking,  on  one  occasion,  a  broken  bind 
to   observe    us   leveral  miles  in  length. 

sual  acorn  cribi  On  the  21st,  the  thermometer  at  sunrise  was 
or  thirty  bushels  i2°.6;  the  sky  slightly  clouded,  and  in  the 
IS,  and  broad  hot  ;ourse  of  the  morning,  the  clouds  gjitliered 
3oded,  with  larg  >eavy  in  the  south-west.  Our  route  lay  in 
s.  The  therinn  i  south-easterly  direction,  toward  the  Upper 
^.5,  with  a  calm  loaquin,  crossing,  among  rolling  hills,  a  large 
es  of  geese  an  ilreain  and  several  sandy  beds  of  affluents  to 
ht  noisy.  'he  main  river.     On  the  trees  along  these 

as  clear,  with  a  streams,  as  well  as  on  the  hills,  1  notice! 
ar-frost  coverin  nosses.  About  2,  ..  le  afternoon,  we  reached 
'  snow.  At  sill  he  Upper  San  Joaquin.  The  stream  was 
at  24°. 5.  Ot  lere  about  seventy  yards  wide,  and  much  too 
vards  the  foot  o  ieep  to  be  forded.  A  little  way  below,  we 
I  broken  countrj  succeeded  in  crossing,  at  a  rapid  made  by  a 
we  reached  th  Jed  of  rock,  below  which,  for  several  miles, 
large  affluent!   the  river  appeared  deep  and  not  fordab  I  e.    We 

.   followed  down  the  stream  for  six  or  eight 

miles,  and  encamped   on  its  banks,  on  the 
"t^J^BSlLt!    «'ge  of  the  valley  plain.    At  evening,  rain 
began  to  fall,  and,  with  this,  the  spring  pro- 
perly commenced.     There  had  been  a  little 


rain  in  November,  but  not  sufficient  to  revive 
vegetation. 

December  22 — The  temperature  at  sunrise 
was  39°.  There  had  been  heavy  rain  during 
the  night,  with  high  wind,  and  this  morning 
there  was  a  thick  fog,  which  began  to  go  off 
at  8  o'clock,  when  the  sun  broke  through. 
We  crossed  an  open  plain,  still  in  a  south- 
easterly direction,  reaching,  in  about  twenty 
miles,  the  Tulare  Lake  River.  This  is  one 
of  the  largest  and  handsomest  streams  in  the 
valley,  being  about  one  hundred  yards  broad, 
and  having,  perhaps,  a  larger  body  of  fertile 
land  than  any  other.  The  broad  alluvial  bot- 
toms are  well  wooded  with  several  species  of 
oaks.  This  is  the  principal  affluent  to  the 
Tulard  Lake,  (the  bulrush  lake,)  a  strip  of 
water  about  seventy  miles  long,  surrounded  by 
lowlands,  rankiy  overgrown  with  bulrushes, 
and  receiving  all  the  rivers  in  the  southern 
end  of  the  valley.  In  times  of  high  water, 
the  lake  discharges  into  the  Joaquin,  making 
a  continuous  water-line  through  the  whole  ex- 
tent of  the  valley. 

We  ascended  this  river  to  its  sources  in  the 
Sierra  Nevada,  about  fifty  miles  from  the  edge 
of  the  valley,  which  we  reached  again  on  the 
7th  of  January,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
Tulare  lake.  We  found  the  temperature  much 
the  same  as  in  December.  Fogs,  which  rose 
from  the  lake  in  the  morning,  were 'dense, 
cold,  and  penetrating,  but,  after  a  few  hours, 
gave  place  to  a  fine  day.  The  face  of  the 
country  had  been  much  improved  by  the  rains 
which  had  fallen  while  we  remained  in  the 
mountains.  Several  humble  plants,  among 
them  the  golden-flowered  violet  {viola  crysan- 
tha)  and  erodium  cicularium,  the  first  valley 
flowers  of  the  spring,  which  courted  a  sunny 
exposure  and  warm  sandy  soil,  were  already 
in  bloom  on  the  south-western  hill  slopes.  In 
the  foot  hills  of  the  mountains  the  bloom  of 
the  flowers  was  earlier.  We  travelled  among 
multitudinous  herds  of  elk,  antelope,  and  wild 
horses.  Several  of  the  latter,  which  we  killed 
for  food,  were  found  to  be  very  fat.  By  the 
middle  of  January,  when  we  had  reached  the 
lower  San  Joaquin,  the  new  green  grass 
covered  the  ground  among  the  open  timber  on 
the  rich  river  bottoms,  and  the  spring  vegeta- 
tion had  taken  a  vigorous  start. 

The  mean  temperature  in  the  .Toaquin  valley, 
during  the  journey,  from  the  middle  of  Decem- 
ber to  the  middle  of  January,  was,  at  sunrise, 
29°,  and  at  sunset,  52°,  with  generally  a  faint 
breeze  from  the  Snowy  Mountains  in  the 
morning,  and  calm  weather  in  the  evening. 
This  was  a  lower  temperature  than  we  had 
found  in  the  oak  region  of  the  mountains  bor- 
dering the  valley,  between  1000  and  5000  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  where,  throughout 
California,  I  have  remarked  the  spring  to  be 
more  forward  than  in  the  open  vaPeys  below. 

During  a  journey  through  the  valley,  be- 
tween the  head  of  the  Tulare  Lake  and  the 
mouth  of  the  San  Joaquin,  ft-om  the  19th 
January  to  the  12th  February,  the  mean  tem- 
perature was  38°  at  sunrise,  and  53°  at  sunset, 
witli  frequent  rains.  At  the  end  of  January, 
B 


u 


GEOGRAPHICAL  MEMOIR. 


the  river  bottonas,  in  many  places,  were  thickly 
covered  with  luxuriant  grass,  more  than  half  a 
foot  hiffh.  The  California  poppy,  {Etchtcholt- 
zia  Californiea,)  the  characteristic  plant  of  the 
Califorr.ia  spring ;  memophila  imignii,  one  of 
the  earliest  flowers,  growing  ir  beautiful  fields, 
of  a  delicate  blue,  and  erodium  eieutarium,  were 
beginning  to  show  a  scattered  bloom.  Wild 
horses  were  fat,  and  a  grisly  bear,  killed  on  the 
2d  February,  had  four  inches  thickness  of  fat  on 
his  back  and  belly,  and  was  estimated  to  weigh 
a  thousand  pounds.  Salmon  was  first  ob- 
tained on  the  4  th  February,  in  the  To-wal-um- 
ne  River,  which,  according  to  the  Indians,  is 
the  most  southerly  stream  in  the  valley  in 
which  this  fish  is  found.  By  the  middle  of 
March,  the  whole  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin 
was  in  the  full  glory  of  spring ;  the  evergreen 
oaks  were  in  flower,  geranium  eieutarium  was 
generally  in.bloom,  occupying  the  place  of  the 
grass,  and  making  on  all  the  uplands  a  close 
sward.  The  higher  prairies  between  the  rivers 
presented  unbroken  fields  of  yellow  and  orange 
coloured  flowers,  varieties  of  Layia  and  Each- 
schoUzia  Californiea,  and  large  bouquets  of  the 
blue  flowering  memophila  nearer  the  streams. 
These  made  the  prevailing  bloom,  and  the 
sunny  hill  slopes  to  the  river  bottoms  showed 
a  varied  growth  of  luxuriant  flowers.  The 
white  oaks  were  not  yet  in  bloom. 

Observations  made  in  the  valley,  from  the 
bend  of  the  Joaquin  to  the  Cos-um-ne  River, 
give,  for  the  mean  temperature,  from  the  10th 
to  the  22d  March,  38°  at  sunrise,  and  56°  at 
sunset,  the  dew-point  being  35°. 7  at  sunrise, 
and  47°.6  at  sunset,  and  the  quantity  of  mois- 
ture contained  in  a  cubic  foot  of  air  being 
2.712  grains,  and  4.072  grains,  respectively. 

A  sudden  change  in  the  temperature  was 
remarked  in  passing  from  the  To-wal-um-ne 
to  the  Stanislaus  River,  there  being  no  change 
in  the  weather,  and  the  wind  continuing  from 
the  north-west,  to  which  we  were  more  di- 
rectly exposed  on  reaching  the  Stanislaus 
River,  where  we  opened  on  the  bay.  In 
travelling  down  to  the  Stanislaus,  the  mean 
temperature  for  five  days  (from  the  11th  to 
the  16th)  was  40°.3  at  sunrise,  73°  at  4,  p.  m., 
and  63°  at  sunset ;  and  detached  observations 


[oming,  63* 
irnoon,  61 
lintatcorre 
10.6,  49°.4 
moisture 
ins,  4.235 
484  grains 
We  left 
th,  ten  mi 
tie   east  o 
lear  River  s 
nt  Pass. 
(Ver  ground 
.88   intern 
lometer  at ' 
eather  clea 
At  sunrise 
i6°,  with  an 
bout  thirty 
ched  the 
iver;  ana 


gave  66°  at  9,  a.  m.,  77°  at  noon,  and  87°  at 
2,  p.  M. 

The  dew-point  was  38°.0,  55°.5,  54°.3,  at 
sunrise,  at  4  in  the  afternoon,  and  at  sunset ; 
and  the  moisture  contained  in  a  cubic  foot  of 
air, 2.878  grains,  5.209  grains, and  4.927  grains, 
respectively. 

North  of  the  Stanislaus  for  five  days  (from 
16th  to  the  2l8t)  the  mean  was  36°.6  at  sun 
rise,  57°  at  4,  p.  m.,  and  49°  at  sunset, 
dew-point  was  34°. 9  at  sunrise,  37°.  1 
p.  M.,  and  40°.9  at  sunset,  and  the  quantity  of 
moisture  in  a  cubic  foot  of  air,  2.671  grains, 
2.983  grains,  and  3.216  grains  at  the  correspond- 
ing times.     At  sunrise  of  the  16th,  on  the 
To-wal-um-ne,  the  thermometer  was  at  43°, 
and  at  sunrise  of  the  next  morning,  on  the 
Stanislaus,  at  35°. 

The  temperature  was  lowest  on  the  night 
of  tlie  17tb.    At  sunrise  of  the  morning  fol- 


lowing, thp  thermometer  was  at  27°,  and  t. 
was  remarked  that  the  frost  affected  8eveni| 
varieties  of  plants.    On  the  20th  and  Shi 
there  v.ere  some  showers  of  rain,  the  firs 
since  the  end  of  February.    These  were  prt^ 
ceded  by  south-westerly  winds. 

During  December  and  the  first  part  of  Jani> 
ary,  which  was  still  at  the  season  of  loi 
waters,  we  were  easily  able  to  ford  all  thi 
Joaquin  tributaries.  Triese  begin  to  rise  will 
the  rains,  and  are  kept  up  by  the  meltin; 
snows  in  the  summer.  At  the  end  of  January  ■ 
the  Joaquin  requires  boating  throughout  thi 
valley,  and  the  tributaries  were  forded  wit) 
difficulty. 

In  the  latter  part  of  March,  of  a  dry  season 
(1844,)  we  were  obliged  to  boat  the  Stanislaus 
To-wal-um-ne,  and  Aux-um-ne,  and  the  Sai 
Joaquin  was  nowhere  fordable  below  thr; 
bend  where  it  is  joined  by  the  slough  of  tht. 
Tulare  Lake.  On  the  13th  of  March,  184«ftributary  of 
we  were  obliged  to  boat  the  San  Joaquin,  the  t>ver  an  unc 
river  being  nowhere  fordable  below  the  junc:  Bourse  broi 
tion  of  the  slough,  and  the  Indians  guidal  Uf  wooded  wit! 
to  some  diflficult  fords  of  the  large  tributaries;  with  small 
where  we  succeeded  to  cross  with  damage  bj  were  in  flow 
our  equipage.  In  July  of  the  same  year,  m  poppy,  unus 
boated  the  San  Joaquin  below  the  Aux-um-nei  teristic  bloo 
it  being  nowhere  fordable  below  the  bend.  the  Bear  R 
In  June,  1847,  the  Joaquin  was  nowhen  covered  wit 
fordable,  being  several  hundred  yards  broad  streams,  anc 
as  high  up  as  the  Aux-um-ne  River,  even  wilb  recent  raine 
its  banks,  and  scattered  in  sloughs  over  all  h  afternoon  w 
lower  bottoms.  All  the  large  tributaries,  the  easterly  wir 
Aux-um-ne,  To-wal-um-ne,  Stanislaus,  aroj  The  mor 
Mo-kel-um-ne,  required  to  be  boated,  and  were*   warmer  tha 

and  the  tem 

the  valley  \ 

reached   Fe 

from  itsjun 

mouth  of  th 

Indians  wh 

banks — tw« 

one  hundre 

gable  stre^ 

the  river  i 

tending  alo 

was  a  i..Tipr 

high,  parti 

Indians'  st 

of  huts,  s 

Indians  su 

these  aeon 

en  Indian 

There  is 

stocked  w 

cultivated 

other  grail 

by  means 

Francisco. 

who  is  pr 

that  his  a' 

twenty-fiv 

supposed 

wheat  Ian 

labour  on 

performed 

The  tei 


pouring  down  a  deep  volume  of  water  from 
the  mountains,  one  to  two  hundred  yards 
wide.  The  high  waters  came  from  the  melv 
ing  snows,  which,  during  the  past  winter,  had 
accumulated  to  a  great  depth  in  the  mountains 
and,  at  the  end  of  June,  lay  in  the  approaches 
to  the  Bear  River  pass,  on  a  breadth  of  ten  oi 
fifteen  miles,  and  this  below  the  level  of  7200 
feet.  In  rainy  seasons,  when  the  rains  begin 
with  November,  and  the  s=nows  lie  on  the 
mountains  till  July,  this  river  is  navigable  for 
eight  months  of  the  year — the  length  of  tim^ 
depending  on  the  season. 

The  Cos-um-ne  was  the  last  tributary  of  the 
San  Joaquin,  and  the  last  river  of  its  valley 
coming  down  from  the  Sierra  Nevada.  The 
Rio  de  los  Americanos  was  the  first  tributary 
of  the  valley  of  the  Sacramento,  also  coming 
down,  like  all  the  respectable  tributaries  of 
both  rivers  from  the  snowy  summit  and  rainy 
sides  of  tiie  great  Sierra.  The  two  valleys  are 
one,  only  discriminated  in  description  or  refer 
The  ence  by  the  name  of  the  river  which  traverses 
at  4, '  the  reppective  halves,  as  seen  in  the  map.  We 
entered  the  part  of  the  valley  which  takes  the 
name  of  its  river,  Sacramento,  on  the  21st 
day  of  March,  going  nortl  ^nd  continued  our 
observations  on  that  valley. 

Wo  remained  several  days  on  the  Rio  de  los 
Americanos,  to  recruit  our  animals  on  the 
abundant  range  between  the  Sacramento  and 
the  hills.  During  this  time  the  thermometer 
was  at  36°  at  sunrise,  54°  at  9  o'clock  in  the 


m^■<i>„tm^■^■'lii|*»e^t^  rt*  ;i>i i 


GEOGRAPHICAL  MEMOIR. 


15 


rning,  63°  at  noon,  63°  at  -2  o'clock  in  the 

srnoon,  61°  at  4,  and  53°  at  sunset ;  the  dew> 

lint  at  corresponding  times  being  34°.0, 49°.9, 

0.6,  49°.4,  51°.6,43°.7;  and  the  quantity 

moisture  in  a  cubic  foot  of  air  being  2.519 

ins,  4.235  grains,  3.808  grains,  4.161  grains, 

484  grains,  3.469  grains. 

We  left  the  Rio  de  los  Americaros  on  the 

th,  ten  miles  above  the  mouth,  tr  veiling  a 

tie   east  of  north,  in  the  direction  of  the 

ear  River  settlements,  at  the  foot  of  the  Emi- 

nt  Pass.    The  road  led  among  oak  timber, 

er  ground  slightly  undulating,  covered  with 

iss   intermingled  with  flowers.    The  ther- 

lometer  at  4  was  76°,  and  at  sunset  60° ;  the 

eather  clear. 

At  sunrise  of  the  25th,  the  temperature  was 

16°,  with  an  easterly  wind  and  clear  sky.     In 

bout  thirty  miles  travel   to  the  north,  we 

lached  the  rancho  of  Mr.  Keyser,  on  Bear 

iver ;  an  affluent  to  Feather  River,  the  largest 

;ributary  of  the  Sacramento.    The  route  lay 

iver  an  undulating  country — more  so  as  our 

ourse  brought  us  nearer  the   mountains — 

ooded  with  oaks  and  shrubbery  in  blossom, 

ith  small  prairies  intervening.     Many  plants 

ere  in  flower,  and  among  them  the  California 

oppy,  unusually  magnificent.  It  is  the  charac- 

?ristic  bloom  of  California  at  this  season,  and 

the  Bear  River  bottoms,  near  the  hills,  were 

covered  with  it.     We  crossed  several  small 

streams,  and  found  the  ground  miry  from  the 

iver,  even  witflrecent  rains.     The  temperature  at  4  in  the 

glis  over  all  it^afternoon  was  70°,  and  at  sunset  58°,  with  an 

easterly  wind,  and  the  night  bright  and  clear. 

The  morning  of  the  25th  was  clear,  and 

warmer  than  usual ;  the  wind  south-easterly. 


at  27°,  and  i 
ifiected  several 
20th  and  21$ 

rain,  the  flrs 
'hese  were  pre 

St  part  of  Jantt 
season  of  lot 
to  ford  all  thi 
rin  to  rise  will 
)y  the  meltinj 
end  of  January 
throughout  thi 
re  forded  will 

)f  a  dry  season 
t  the  Stanislaus 

,  and  the  Sai 
)le   below    thi 

slough  of  tht. 
March,  1846 
an  Joaquin,  thr 
below  the  junc 
iians  guide*]  ui 
crge  tributaries 
with  damage  tt 

same  year,  w(i 
the  Aux-um-ne! 
w  the  bend. 

was  nowhen 

d  yards  broai 


tributaries,  tii 
Stanislaus,  anr, 
oated,  and  wen 


of  water  fron  and  the  temperature  40°.  We  travelled  across 
hundred  yardi  the  valley  plain,  and  in  about  sixteen  miles 
from  the  melt  reached  Feather  River  at  twenty-six  miles 
)ast  winter,  hat  from  its  junction  with  the  Sacramento,  near  the 
mouth  of  the  Yuva,  so  called  from  a  village  of 
Indians  who  live  on  it.  The  river  has  high 
banks — twenty  or  thirty  feet — and  was  here 
one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  wide,  a  deep  navi- 
gable stream.  The  Indians  aided  us  across 
the  river  with  canoes  and  small  rafts.  Ex- 
tending along  the  bank  in  front  of  the  village, 
was  a  iv.!ipre  of  wicker  cribs,  about  twelve  feet 
high,  parti/  filled  with  what  is  there  the 
Indians'  statT  of  life — acorns.  A  collection 
of  huts,  shaped  like  bee-hives,  with  naked 
Indians  sunning  themselves  on  the  tops,  and 
these  acorn  cribs,  are  the  prominent  objects  in 
an  Indian  village. 

There  is  a  fine  farm,  or  rancho,  on  the  Yuva, 
stocked  with  about  3000  head  of  cattle,  and 
cultivated  principally  in  wheat,  with  some 
other  grains  and  vegetables,  which  are  carried, 
by  means  of  the  river,  to  a  market  at  San 
Francisco.  Mr.  Cordua,  a  native  of  Germany, 
who  is  proprietor  of  the  place,  informed  me 
that  his  average  harvest  of  wheat  was  about 
twenty-five  bushels  to  the  acre,  which  he 
supposed  would  be  about  the  product  of  the 
wheat  lands  in  the  Sacramento  valley.  The 
labour  on  this  and  other  farms  in  the  valley  is 
performed  by  Indians. 
The  temperature  here  was  74°  at  2  in  the 


I  the  mountains 
the  approaches 
■eadth  of  ten  oi 
e  level  of  720C 
the  rains  begin 
ws  lie  on  the 
s  navigable  for 
length  of  time 

tributary  of  the 
ir  of  its  valley 
Nevada,  The 
i  first  tributary 
!>,  also  coming 
I  tributaries  of 
umit  and  rainy 
two  valleys  are 
iption  or  refer 
vhich  traverses 
I  the  map.  We 
^hich  takes  the 
),  on  the  21st 
continued  om 


the  Rio  de  los 
limals  on  the 
acramento  and 
e  thermometer 
o'clock  in  the 


afternoon,  71°  at  4,  and  69°  at.  sunset,  with  a 
north-easterly  wind  and  clear  shy. 

At  sunrise  of  the  27ih  the  temperature  was 
42°,  clear,  with  a  north-easterly  wind.  We 
travelled  northwardly,  up  the  right  bank  of  the 
river,  which  was  wooded  with  large  white  and 
evergreen  oaks,  interspereed  with  thickets  of 
shrubbery  in  full  bloom.  We  made  a  pleasant 
journey  of  twenty-seven  miles,  and  encamped 
at  the  bend  of  the  river,  where  it  turns  from 
the  course  across  the  valley  to  run  southerly 
to  its  junction  with  the  Sacramento.  The 
thermometer  at  sunset  was  ac  67°,  sky  partially 
clouded,  with  southerly  wind. 

The  thermometer  at  sunrise  on  the  28th  was 
at  46°.5,  with  a  north-easterly  wind.  The 
road  was  over  an  open  plain,  with  a  few  small 
sloughs  or  creeks  that  do  not  reach  the  river. 
After  travelling  about  fifteen  miles  we  en- 
camped on  Butte  Creek,  a  beautiful  stream  of 
clear  water  about  fifty  yards  wide,  with  a  bold 
current  running  all  the  year.  It  has  large  fer- 
tile bottoms,  wooded  with  open  groves,  and 
having  a  luxuriant  growth  of  pea  vine  among 
the  grass.  The  oaks  here  were  getting  into 
general  bloom.  Fine  ranches  have  been 
selected  on  both  sides  the  stream,  and  stocked 
with  cattle,  some  of  which  were  now  very  fat. 
A  rancho  here  is  owned  by  Neal,  who  for- 
merly belonged  to  my  exploring  party.  There 
is  a  ranchertn  (Indian  village)  near  by,  and 
some  of  the  Indians  gladly  ran  races  for  the 
head  and  oflfals  of  a  fat  cow  which  had  been 
presented  to  us.  They  were  entirely  naked. 
The  thermometer  at  2  in  the  afternoon  was  at 
70°,  two  hours  later  at  74°,  and  65°  at  sun- 
set; the  wind  east,  and  sky  clear  only  in  the 
west. 

The  temperature  at  sunrise  the  next  day  was 
50°,  with  cumuli  in  the  south  and  west,  which 
left  a  clear  sky  at  9,  with  a  north-west  wind, 
and  temperature  of  64°.  We  travelled  twenty 
miles,  and  encamped  on  Pine  Creek,  another 
fine  stream,  with  bottoms  of  fertile  land, 
wooded  with  groves  of  large  and  handsome 
oaks,  some  attaining  to  six  feet  in  diameter, 
and  forty  to  seventy  feet  in  height.  At  4  in 
the  afternoon  the  thermometer  showed  74°, 
and  G4°  at  sunset;  and  the  sky  clear,  except 
in  the  horizon. 

March  30. — The  sun  rose  in  masses  of  clouds 
over  the  eastern  mountains.  A  pleasant  morn- 
ing, with  a  sunrise  temperature  of  46°.5,  and 
some  mosquitoes — never  seen,  as  is  said,  in 
the  CO,  St  country ;  but  at  seasons  of  high 
water,  ab  ndant  and  venomous  in  the  bottoms 
of  the  Joaquin  and  Sacramento.  On  the  tribu- 
taries nearer  the  mountain  but  few  are  seen, 
and  those  go  with  the  sun.  Continuing  up 
the  valley,  we  crossed  in  a  short  distance  a 
large  wooded  creek,  having  now  about  thirty- 
five  feet  breadth  of  water.  Our  road  was  over 
an  upland  prairie  of  the  Sacramento,  having  a 
yellowish,  gravelly  soil,  generally  two  or 
three  miles  from  the  river,  and  twelve  or 
fifteen  from  the  foot  of  the  eastern  moun- 
tains. On  the  west  it  was  twenty-five  or 
thirty  miles  to  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  which 
here  make  a  bed  of  high  and  broken  ranges. 


-3  ■ 

i.    I. 


16 


GEOGRAPHICAL  MEMOIR, 


'i 


iV: 


In  the  afternoon,  about  half  a  mile  above  its 
mouth,  we  encamped  on  Deer  Creek,  another 
of  thoae  beautiful  tributaries  to  the  Sacra- 
mento. It  has  the  usual  broad  and  fertile 
bottom-lands  common  to  these  streams, 
wooded  with  groves  of  oak  and  a  large  syca- 
more, {platanus  occidentalin,)  distinfjuished  by 
bearing  its  balls  in  strings  of  three  to  five,  and 
peculiar  to  California.  Mr.  Lassen,  a  native 
of  Germany,  has  established  a  rancho  here, 
which  he  has  stocked,  and  is  gradually  bring- 
ing into  cultivation.  Wheat,  as  generally 
throughout  the  north  country,  gives  large  re- 
turns" cotton,  planted  in  the  way  of  experi- 
ment, was  not  injured  by  frost,  and  succeeded 
well;  and  he  has  lately  planted  a  vineyard, 
for  which  the  Sacramento  valley  is  considered 
to  be  singularly  well  adapted.  The  seasons 
are  not  yet  sufficiently  understood,  and  too 
little  has  been  done  in  agriculture,  to  afford 
certain  knowledge  of  the  capacities  of  the 
country.  This  farm  is  in  the  fortieth  degree 
of  latitude ;  our  position  on  the  river  being  in 
30°  57'  00",  and  longitude  121°  50'  44",  west 
Irom  Greenwich,  and  elevation  above  the  sea 
five  hundred  and  sixty  feet.  About  three 
miles  above  the  mouth  of  this  stream  are  the 
first  rapids — the  present  head  of  navigation — 
in  the  Sacramento  River,  which,  from  tlie 
rapids  to  its  mouth  in  the  bay,  is  more  than 
two  hundred  miles  long,  and  increasing  in 
breadth  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  to 
six  hundred  yards  in  the  lower  part  of  its 
course. 

During  six  days  that  we  remained  here, 
from  the  30th  March  to  the  5tli  April,  the 
mean  temperature  was  40°  at  sunrise,  52°.5  at 
9  in  the  morning,  57°. 2  at  noon,  59°. 4  at  2  in 
the  afternoon,  58°.8  at  4,  and  52°  at  sunset ; 
at  the  corresponding  times  the  dew-point  was 
at  37°.0,  41°.0,  38°.l,  39°.6,  44°.!),  40°.5; 
and  the  moisture  in  n  cubic  foot  of  air  2.838 
grains,  3.179  grains,  2.!»35  grains,  3.034  grains, 
3.766  grains,  3.150  grains,  respectively.  Much 
cloudy  weather  and  some  showers  of  rain, 
during  this  interval,  considerably  reduced  the 
temperature,  which  rose  with  fine  weather  on 
the  5th.  Salmon  was  now  abundant  in  the 
Sacramento.  Those  which  we  obtained  were 
generally  between  three  and  four  feet  in 
length,  and  appeared  to  be  of  two  distinct 
kinds.  It  is  said  that  as  many  as  four  differ- 
ent kinds  ascend  the  river  at  different  periods. 
The  great  abundance  in  which  this  fish  is 
found  gives  it  an  important  place  among  the 
resources  of  the  country.  The  salmon  crowd 
in  immense  numbers  up  the  Umpqua,  TIamath, 
and  Trinity  Rivers,  and  into  every  little  river 
and  creek  on  the  coast  north  of  the  Bay  of  San 
Francisco,  ascending  the  river  TIamath  to 
the  lake  near  its  source,  which  is  upwards  of 
4000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  distant  from  it 
only  about  200  miles. 

In  the  evening  of  the  5th  we  resumed  our 
journey  northward,  and  encamped  on  a  little 
creek,  near  the  Sacramento,  where  an  emigrant 
from  "the  States"  was  establishing  himself, 
and  had  already  built  a  house.  It  is  a  hand- 
some place,  wooded  with  groves  of  oak,  and 


along  the  creek  are  sycamore,  ash,  cotton- 
wood,  and  willow.  The  day  was  fine,  with  a 
north-west  wind. 

The  temperature  at  sunrise  the  next  day, 
(April  6th,)  was  42°,  with  a  north-easterly 
wind.  We  continued  up  the  Sacramento, 
which  we  crossed  in  canoes  at  a  farm  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  river.  The  Sacramento  was 
here  about  one  hundred  and  forty  yards  wide, 
and  with  the  actual  stiigo  of  water,  which  I 
was  informed  continued  several  montiis,  navi- 
gable for  a  steamboat.  We  encamped  a  few 
miles  above,  on  a  creek  wooded  principally 
with  large  oaks.  Grass  was  good  and  abun- 
dant, with  wild  oats  and  pea  vine  in  the  bot- 
toms. The  day  was  fine,  with  a  cool  north- 
westerly breeze,  which  had  in  it  the  air  of  the 
high  mountains.  The  wild  oats  here  were 
not  yet  headed. 

The  snowy  peak  of  Shastl  bore  directly 
north,  showing  out  high  above  the  other  moun- 
tains. Temperature  at  sunset  57°,  with  a 
west  wind  and  sky  partly  clouded. 

^pril  7. — The  temperature  at  sunrise  was 
37°,  with  a  moist  air ;  and  a  faintly-clouded 
sky  indicated  that  the  wind  was  southerly 
along  the  coast.  We  travelled  toward  the 
Shastl  peak,  the  mountain  ranges,  on  both 
sides  of  the  valleys,  being  high  and  rugged, 
and  snow-covered.  Some  remarkable  peaks 
in  the  Sierra,  to  the  eastward,  are  called  the 
Sisters,  and,  nearly  opposite,  the  coast  range 
shows  a  prominent  peak,  which  we  have  called 
Mount  Linn. 

Leaving  the  Sacramento,  at  a  stream  called 
Red  Bank  Creek,  and  continuing  to  the  head 
of  one  of  its  forks,  we  entered  on  a  iiigh  and 
somewhat  broken  upland,  timbered  with  at 
least  four  varieties  of  oaks,  with  mansaniia, 
{arbutus  Me7iziesii,)?ii\d  other  shrubbery  inter- 
spersed. A  remarkable  species  of  pine,  hav- 
ing leaves  in  threes,  (sometimes  six  to  nine 
inches  long,)  with  bluish  foliage,  and  a  spread- 
ing, oak-shaped  top,  was  scattered  through  the 
timber.  I  have  remarked  that  this  tree  grows 
lower  down  the  mountains  than  the  other  pines, 
being  found  familiarly  associated  with  the 
oaks,  the  first  met  after  leaving  the  open  val- 
leys, and  seeming  to  like  a  warm  climate. 
Flowers  were,  as  usual,  abundant.  The  splen- 
did California  poppy  characterized  all  the 
route  along  the  valley.  A  species  of  clover 
was  in  bloom,  and  the  berries  of  the  mansanita 
were  beginning  to  redden  on  some  trees,  while 
on  others  they  were  still  in  bloom.  We  en- 
camped, at  an  elevation  of  about  1000  feet 
above  the  sea,  on  a  large  stream  called  Cotton- 
wood Creek,  wooded  on  the  bottoms  with 
oaks,  and  with  cotton-woods  along  the  bed, 
which  is  sandy  and  gravelly.  The  water  was 
at  this  time  about  twenty  yards  wide,  but  is 
frequently  fifty.  The  face  of  the  country  tra- 
versed during  the  day  was  gravelly,  and  the 
bottoms  of  the  creek  where  we  encamped  have 
a  sandy  soil. 

There  are  six  or  seven  raneheriaa  of  Indians 
on  the  Sacramento  River  between  the  farm 
where  we  had  crossed  the  Sacramento 
and  the  mouth  of  this  creek,  and  many  others 


•*..«**.•<•  .4I.I- 


the  mou 
ms. 

The  ".ext 

n,  but  th 

ise,  and  a^ 

est,  which 

[ear  weathe 

We  conti 

d  encanipt 

e  afternoor 

ick,  and  in 

e  valley  ar 

ere  now  nc 

d  the  face 

legan  sensib 

d  mountaii 

The  valley 

ipper  and  loi 

ng,  the  up 

tter  not  me 

ipper,asbcii 

having  a  i 

nds  of  feet 

nd  geograpl 

lands  at  the 

)rks  of  the  i 

000  feet,  ou 

scends  like 

4,000  feci,  ( 

le  summit  g 

om  favoura 

f  one  hundr 

sy.    The  m 

pper  valley, 

tiling  2000  1 

illey  is  one 

Bred,  the  cli 

B  altitude,  it 

roximity  an 

lountains  cc 

illeys  of  an 

settlement 

akes  the  v 

ree  hundrec 

dpril  9.— I 

enced  the  p 

e  clouds  cl( 

id  continue 

e  foot  of  tl 

ms  here  are 

il  of  a  sand] 

ry  handsor 

ks,  minglec 

e  oak-shape 

ere  bouquets 

undant  whi 

vered  with 

!  valley  he 

ny  small 

ids,  with  a 

about  six  r 

twenty-fiv 

ther  descen 

ift  stream 

)w  Creek,  i 

lall  band  of 

rty  on  their 

sly  wild,  ai 


9BR 


JBius-L-.y,. 


ash,  cotton- 
B  fine,  with  a 


GEOGRAPHICAL  MEMOIR 
about  the  heads  of  these 


the  mountains 
ma. 
The  ".ext  morning  was  cloudy,  threatening 
"n,  but  the  sicy  grew  brighter  as  the  sun 
pse,  and  a. southerly  wind  changed  to  north- 
■est,  which  brouglit,  as  it  never  fails  to  bring, 
ear  weather. 

We  continued  sixteen  miles  up  the  valley, 
d  encamped  on  the  Sacramento  River.  In 
le  afternoon  (April  8)  the  weather  again  grew 
lick,  and  in  the  fvening  rain  began  to  lull  in 
d  princil)alllv  '^  valley  and  snow  on  the  mountains.  We 
od  and  abun-  *™  "°^  ^^^^^  ''"^  ^^  "*  ^^'^  lower  valley, 
ne  in  the  bot-  "^  '''®  ^''^^  '^^  *''®  country  and  the  weather 
a  cool  north-,  egan  sensibly  to  show  the  influence  of  the  rug- 
the  air  of  the  ^  ^"  mountains  which  surround  and  terminate  it. 
.o  Ko™  M7/»,o  Thevalley  of  the  Sacramento  is  divided  into 
pper  and  lower — the  lower  two  hundred  miles 


10  next  day, 
lorth-easterly 
Sacramento, 
I  farm  on  the 
craniento  was 
y  yards  wide, 
ater,  which  I 
months,  navi- 
Ecimped  a  few 


lis  here  were 


es 


bore  directly  *"S'  *^®  upper  about  one  hundred  ;  and  the 

e  other  moun-  '^^""^  "°'  merely  entitled  to  the  distinction  of 

c-o     yfn\Y  a  pper,  as  being  higher  up  on  the  river,  but  also 

J '   '  Is  having  a  superior  elevation  of  some  thou- 

t  sunrise  was  mds  of  feet  above  it.   The  division  is  strongly 

aintly-clouded  nd  geographically  marked.    The  Shastl  peak 

vas   soMtherlv  ^                                            "  valley,  in  the 

d'  toward  the  *^^^  °^  '^®  river,  rising  from  a  base  of  about 

~  =    „„  K^iK  000  feet,  out  of  a  forest  of  heavy  timber.    It 

nges,  on  ootn  i    I'l           •                    i       '             i      r 

A  rii<T<TOfl  scends  like  an  immense  column  upwards  ot 

ana  ruggea,  ^^^^^  ,.^^.^  (r,o^i\y  the  height  of  Mont  Blanc,) 

le  summit  glistening  with  snow,  and  visible, 

om  favourable  points  of  view,  at  a  distance 

f  one  hundred  and  forty  miles  down  the  val- 

sy.    Tlie  river  here,  in  descending  from'  the 

pper  valley,  plunges  down  through  a  canon, 

dling  2000  feet  in  twenty  miles.    This  upper 

Hey  is  one  hundred  miles  long,  heavily  tiin- 

red,  the  climate  and  productions  modified  by 

altitude,  its  more  northern  position,  and  the 

oximity  and  elevation  of  the  neighbouring 

ountains  covered  with  snow.      It  contains 

iUeys  of  arable  land,  and  is  deemed  capable 

settlement.    Added  to  the  lower  valley,  it 

akes  the  whole  valley  of  the  Sacramento 

ree  hundred  miles  long. 

Jpril  9. — At  10  o'clock  the  rain  which  com- 

enced  the  previous  evening  had  ceased,  and 

16  clouds  clearing  away,  we  boated  the  river, 

d  continued  our  journey  eastward   toward 

e  foot  of  the  Sierra.    The  Sacramento  bot- 

8  here  are  broad  and  prettily  wooded,  with 

il  of  a  sandy  character.   Our  way  led  through 

ry  handsome,  open  woods,  principally  of 

ks,  mingled  with  a  considerable  quantity  of 

le  oak-shaped  pine.  Interspersed  among  these 

re  bouquets  or  thickets  of  mansanita,  and  an 

undant  white-flowering  shrub,  now  entirely 

ivered  with  small  blossoms.    The  head  of 

valley  here  (lower  valley)  is  watered  by 

ny  small   streams,  having  fertile  bottom 

da,  with  a  good  range  of  grass  and  acorns. 

about  six  miles  we  crossed  a  creek  twenty 

twenty-five  feet  wide,  and   several  miles 

ther  descended  into  the  broad  bottoms  of  a 

ift  stream  about  twenty  yards  wide,  called 

)w  Creek,  so  named  as  being  the  range  of  a 

all  band  of  cattle,  which  ran  oflfhere  from  a 

rty  on  their  way  to  Oregon.    They  are  en- 

Bly  wild,  and  are  hunted  like  other  game. 

3 


1 

arkable  peaks 
are  called  the 
le  coast  range 
we  have  called 

stream  called 
(ig  to  the  head 
on  a  high  and 
bered  with  at 
ith  mansanita, 
irubbery  inter- 
of  pine,  hav- 
six  to  nine 
,  and  a  spread- 
ed  through  the 
his  tree  grows 
he  other  pines, 
ted   with  the 
the  open  val- 
varm  climate, 
it.   The  splen- 
rized    all    the 
cies  of  clover 
the  mansanita 
ne  trees,  while 
30  m.     We  en- 
tout  1000  feet 
called  Cotton- 
bottoms  with 
long  the  bed, 
The  water  was 
Is  wide,  but  is 
le  country  tra- 
velly,  and  the 
incamped  have 

riaa  of  Indians 
reen  the  farm 
Sacramento 
d  many  others 


A  large  band  of  antelope  was  seen  in  the  tim> 
her,  and  five  or  six  deer  came  darting  through 
the  woods.  An  antelope  and  several  deer 
were  killed.  There  appears  to  be  two  species 
of  these  deer — both  of  the  kind  generally 
called  black-tailed  ;  one,  a  larger  species,  fre- 
quenting the  prairies  and  lower  grounds ;  the 
other,  much  smaller,  and  found  in  the  moun- 
tains only.  The  mountains  in  the  north-east 
were  black  with  clouds  when  we  reached  the 
creek,  and  very  soon  a  fierce  hail-storm  burst 
down  on  us,  scattering  our  animals  and  cover- 
ing the  "ground  an  inch  in  depth  with  hail- 
stones about  t!ie  size  of  wild  cherries.  The 
face  of  the  country  appeared  as  whitened  by  a 
fall  of  snow,  and  the  weather  became  unplea- 
santly cold.  The  evening  closed  in  withrain, 
and  thunder  rolling  around  the  hills.  Our  ele- 
vation here  was  between  1000  and  1100  feet. 
At  sunrise  the  next  morning  the  thermometer 
was  at  33°.  The  surrounding  mountains 
showed  a  continuous  line  of  snow,  and  the 
high  peaks  looked  wintry.  Turning  to  the 
southward,  we  retraced  our  steps  down  the 
valley,  and  reached  Mr.  Lassen's,  on  Deer 
River,  on  the  evening  of  the  lltii.  The  Sa- 
cramento bottoms  between  Antelope  and  Deer 
River  were  covered  with  oats,  which  had 
attained  their  full  height,  growing  as  in  sown 
fields.  The  country  here  exhibited  the  matu- 
rity of  spring.  The  California  poppy  was 
everywhere  forming  seed  pods,  and  many 
plants  were  in  flower  and  seed  together.  Some 
varieties  of  clover  were  just  beginning  to  bloom. 
By  the  middle  of  the  month  the  seed-vessels  of 
the  California  poppy,  which,  from  its  charac- 
teristic abundance,  is  a  prominent  feature  in 
the  vegetation,  had  attained  their  full  size; 
but  the  seeds  of  this  and  many  other  plants, 
although  fully  formed,  were  still  green- 
coloured,  and  not  entirely  ripe.  At  this  time, 
I  obtained  from  the  San  Joaquin  valley  seeds 
of  the  poppy,  and  other  plants,  black  and  fully 
ripe,  while  they  still  remained  green  in  this 
part  of  the  Sacramento — the  effect  of  a  warmer 
climate  in  the  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin. 
The  mean  temperature  for  fourteen  days,  from 
the  10th  to  the  24th  of  April,  was  43°  at  sun- 
rise, 58°  at  nine  in  the  morning,  64°  at  noon, 
66°  at  2  in  the  afternoon,  69°  at  4,  and  58°  at 
sunset,  (latitude  40°.)  The  thermometer 
ranged  at  sunrise  from  38°  to  51°,  at  4 
(which  is  the  hottest  of  those  hours  of  the 
day  when  the  temperature  was  noted)  from 
53°  to  88°,  and  at  sunset  from  49°  to  65°. 
The  dew-point  was  40°.3  at  sunrise,  47°. 3  at 
9  in  the  morning,  46°.  I  at  noon,  49°. 2  at  3  in 
the  afternoon,  49°. 2  at  4,  and  46°.6  at  sunset; 
and  the  quantity  of  moisture  in  a  cubic  foot  hi 
air  at  corresponding  times  was  3.104  grains, 
3.882  grains,  3.807  grains,  4.213  grains,  4.217 
grains,  3.884  grains,  respectively.  The  winds 
fluctuated  between  north-west  and  south-east, 
the  temperature  dependir-r  more  upon  the  state 
of  the  sky  than  the  v.;.ection  of  winds — a 
clouded  sky  always  lowering  the  thermometer 
fifteen  or  twenty  degrees  in  a  short  time.  For 
the  greater  number  of  the  days  above  given  the 
b2 


wmn 


IB 


GEOGRAPHICAL  MEMOIR. 


V. 


•ky  was  covered,  and  the  atmosphere  fre- 
qu«mtiy  thick,  with  rain  at  intervals  from  the 
19th  to  the  23d. 

'Jn  the  25lh  May  we  returned  to  this  place 
(Lassen's)  from  an  excursion  to  the  Upper 
Sacramento.  The  plants  we  had  left  in  bloom 
were  now  generally  in  seed  ;  and  many,  includ- 
ing the  characteristic  plants,  perfectly  ripe. 
The  mean  temperature  of  a  few  days  ending 
May  was  5l°.7  at  sunrise,  70°. 0  at  noon,  and 
67°. 3  at  sunset.  Travelling  south,  into  the 
more  open  and  wider  part  of  the  valley,  whero 
the  bordering  mountains  are  lower,  ana  showed 
less  snow,  the  temperature  increased  rapidly. 
At  the  Buttes — an  isolated  mountain  ridge 
about  six  miles  long,  and  about  2()90  feet 
abovd  the  sea — the  mornings  wore  pleasantly 
cool  for  a  few  hours,  but  before  ten  the  heat 
of  the  sun  became  very  great,  though  iisually 
tempered  by  a  refreshing  breeze.  'J'ho  heat 
was  usually  greatest  about  four  in  the  after- 
noon. The  mean  temperature  from  May  27th 
to  June  6th,  was  64°  at  sunrise,  79°  at  9  in 
the  morning,  86°  at  noon,  90°  at  2  in  the  after- 
noon, 91°  at  4,  and  80°  at  sunset,  ranging  from 
53°  to  79°  at  sunrise— from  85°  to  98°  at  4  in 
the  afternoon — and  from  73°  to  89°  at  sunset. 
The  place  of  observatioh  was  at  the  eastern 
base  of  the  Buttes,  about  800  feet  above  the 
sea,  latitude  39°  IS',  and  one  of  the  warmest 
situations  in  the  Sacramento  valley.  At  cor- 
responding times  the  dew-point  was  at  56°.5, 
62^4, 66°.5,  68°.2,  66°.6,  66°.9,  and  the  quan- 
tity of  moisture  in  a  cubic  foot  of  air,  5.253 
grains,  6.318  grains, 7.1  SI  grains,  7.495 grains, 
7.164  grains,  and  7.269  grains,  respectively. 
We  felt  the  heat  here  mofe  sensibly  than  at 
any  other  place  where  our  journeying  brought 
us  in  Calil'ornia.  The  hunters  always  left  the 
camp  before  daylight,  and  were  in  by  9  o'clock, 
after  which  the  sun  grew  hot.  Game  was 
very  fat  and  abundant;  upwards  of  eighty 
deer,  elk,  and  bear  were  killed  in  one  morn- 
ing. The  range  consisted  of  excellent  grasses, 
wild  oats  in  fields,  red  and  other  varieties  of 
clover,  some  of  which  were  now  in  mature 
seed,  and  others  beginning  to  flower.  Oats 
were  now  drying  in  level  places  where  ex- 
posed to  the  full  influence  of  the  sun,  remain- 
ing green  in  moister  places  and  on  the  hill 
slopes. 

The  mean  temperature  of  the  open  valley 
between  the  Buttes  and  the  American  Fork, 
from  the  8th  to  the  21  st  June,  was  57°  at  sun- 
rise, 74°  at  9  in  tlie  morning,  85°  at  noon,  87° 
at  2  in  the  afternoon,  88°  at  4,  and  77°  at  sun- 
set; ranging  at  sunrise  from  51°  to  61^  ;  at  4 
from  81"  to  97°;  and  at  sunset  from  71°  to 
85°.  The  dew-point  at  corresponding  times 
was52°.8,  58°.8,  62°.l,  6C°.8,  62°.5,  60°.7, 
and  the  quantity  of  moisture  in  a  cubic  foot  of 
air  being  4.685  grains,  5.709  grains,  6.320 
grains,  7.217  grains,  6.377  grains,  5.973  grains, 
respectively. 

Western  Slope  of  the  Sierra  Nevada.— The 
western  flank  of  this  Sierra  belongs  to  the 
maritime  region  of  California,  and  is  capable  of 
adding  greatly  to  its  value.  It  is  a  long,  wide 
slope,  timbered  and  grassy,  with  intervals  of 


arable  land,  oopiously  watered  with  numerouiJ 
and  bold  streams,  and  without  the  cold  whictil 
its  name  and  altitude  might  imply.    In  lengtl<  1 
it  is  the  whole  extent  of  the  long  valley  at  iu 
base,  five  hundred  miles.     In  breadth,  it  ii 
from  forty  to  seventy  miles  from  the  summi 
of  the  mountain  to  the  teitnination  of  the  foe;, 
hills  in  the  edge  of  the  valleys  below,  anu 
almost  the  whole  of  it  available  for  some  us^ 
ful  purpose — timber,  pasturage,  some  arabl; 
land,  mills,  quarries — and  so  situated  as  to  bu 
convenient  for   use,   the   wide  slope   of  thtl 
mountain  being  of  easy  and  praelicablo  de^  i 
scent.     Timber  holds  the  first  place  in  thi, 
advantages   of  this   slope,   the  whole  bein'j 
heavily  wooded,  first  with  oaks,  which  preJ 
dominate  to  about  half  the  elevation  of  thtl 
mountain ;  and  then  with  pines,  cypress,  arif 
cedars,  the  pines  predominating ;   and  henci| 
called  the  pine  region,  as  that  below  is  called 
the  oak  region,  though  mixed  with  other  trees , 
The  highest  summits  of  the  Sierra  are  nakoJj 
massive  granite  rock,  covered  with  snow,  ii 
sheltered  places,  all   the  year  round.    Tl 
oaks  are  8e\eral  varieties  of  white  and  blaci| 
oak,  and  evergreens,  some  of  them  resembling 
live  oak.    Of  the  white  oak  there  are  somj 
new  species,  attaining  a  handsome  elevation| 
upon  a  stem  six  feet  in  diameter.    Acorns  i 
uncommon  size,  and  not  bad  taste,  used  regu  j 
larly  for  food  by  the  Indians,  abound  on  thest'l 
trees,  and  will  be  of  great  value  for  stocky 
The  cypress,  pine,  and  cedar  are  between  on 
hundred  and  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  higl^ 
and  five  to  twelve  feet  in  diameter,  with  cleaj 
solid  stems.     Grass  abounds  on  almost  al 
parts  of  the  slope,  except  towards  the  highei 
summits,  and  is  fresh  and  green  all  the  yeal 
round,  being  neither  killed   by  cold   in  tli| 
winter,  nor  dried  by  want  of  rain  in  the  sun 
mer.     The  foot  hills  of  the  slope  are  sufi 
ciently  fertile  and  gentle  to  admit  of  good  sell 
tlements ;  while  valleys,  coves,  beaches,  ani 
meadows  of  arable  land  are  found  throughoul 
Many  of  the  numerous  streams,  some  of  the™ 
amounting  to  considerable  rivers,  which  floJ 
down   the  mountain  side,   make  handsome] 
fertile  valleys.     All  these  streams  furnish  goa 
water  power.     The  climate  in  the  lower  _ 
of  the  slope  is  that  of  constant  spring,  whill 
above  the  cold  is  not  in  proportion  to  the  elef 
vation.      Such   is  the  general  view  of  thi 
western  slope  of  the  great  Sierra ;  but  deem 
ing  that  all  general  views  should  rest  upoi 
positive  data,  I  add  some  notes  taken  froJ 
actual  observations  made  in  different  ascenl| 
and   descents  in   the  winter  and   spring 
l845-'46,  and  in  different  degrees  of  latituA 
from  33°  to  41°. 

December  4,  1845. — Descent  from  the  pas 
at  the  head  of  Salmon  Trout  River,  latitudj 
39°  1 7',  elevation  7200  feet.  At  .^  in  the  aft« 
noon  the  temperature  at  46",  at  sunset  34°,  a 
sunrise  next  morning  22°  ;  the  sky  perfectll 
clear ;  no  snow  in  the  pass,  but  much  on  tbf 
mountain  tops.  Here  the  present  emig 
road  now  crosses.  A  fork  of  Bear  River  ( 
considerable  stream  tributary  to  Feather  Riveil 
which  falls  into  the  Sacramento)  leads  froJ 


GEOGRAPHICAL  MEMOIR, 


pau,  and  the  road  follows  it;  but  finding 

Is  a  ruffged  way,  we  turned  to  the  south,  and 

oampea   in  a  mountain  meadow  of  food 

een  grass.     A  yellow  moss  very  abundant 

the  north  sides  of  the  pines. 

\j)ecember   6. — The   route   was    over    good 

palling  ground,  through  open  pine  forest  on 

)road,ledding  ridge,  atfording  an  excellent 

id.     A  species  of  cedar  {Thuya  f^ifrantta) 

jurred,  often  of  extraordinary  linifrht  and 

ic.    Pinus  Inmhertiani  was  one  of  the  most 

equent    trees,   distinguished    amonif    cone- 

iring  tribes  by  the  leni^th  of  its  conos,  some- 

les  sixteen  or  eighteen  inches  long.     The 

kdians  eat  the  inner  part  of  the  burr,  ami 

rge  heaps  of  them  were  seen  where  they  had 

|en  collected.     Leaving  the  higher  ridges, 

id  gaining  the  smoother  spurs,  and  descend- 

tg  about  4000  feet,  the  face  of  the  country 

Ranged  rapidly.    The  country  buamo  low, 

tiling,  ana  pretty ;  the  pines  began  to  disap- 

par,  and  varieties  of  oak,  and  principally  an 

rergreen   resembling  live  oak,  became  the 

pdominating  forest    growth.      Thesfi  oaks 

ar  great  quantities  of  large  acorns,  the  prin- 

pal  food  of  all  the  wild  Indians.    At  a  village 

:  a  few  huts  which  we  came  upon,  there  was 

llarge  supply  of  these  acorns — eight  or  ten 

ribs  of  wicker  work,  containing  about  twenty 

iishels  each.    The  best  acorns  arc  obtained 

sm  a  large  tree  belonging  to  the  division  of 

khite   oaks,   which   is   very  abundant,  and 

enerally  forms  the  groves  on  the  bottom  lands 

the  streams— standing  apart,  with  a  clean 
ndergrowth  of  grass,  giving  them  the  appear- 
|ice  of  cultivated  parks.  It  is  a  noble  forest 
ee,  already  mentioned  as  a  new  species, 
Ixty  to  eighty  feet  high,  with  a  tufted  sum- 
lit  of  spreading  branches,  and  frequently 
Mains  a  diameter  of  six  feet.  The  largest 
le  measured  reached  eleven  feet.  The  ever- 
reen  oaks  generally  have  a  low  growth,  with 
kng  branches  and  spreading  tops.  Some  of 
kem  are  suitable  for  ship-timber,  and  have 
Iready  been  used  for  that  purpose. 

At  our  evening  encampment  of  the  8th, 
^hich  was  at  an  elevation  of  five  hundred 
let  above  the  sea,  latitude  38°  53',  and  dis- 
knt  from  the  seacoest  about  one  hundred 
iiles,  the  temperature  at  sunset  was  48",  the 
ly  clear  and  calm,  weather  delightful,  and 
ke  vegetation  that  of  early  spring.  We  were 
ill  upon  the  foot  hills  of  the  mountain,  where 
le  soil  is  sheltered  by  woods,  and  where  rain 
Ills  much  more  frequently  than  in  the  open 
Vramonto  valley,  near  the  edge  of  which 

I  then  were.  1  have  been  in  copious,  con- 
nuous  rains  of  eighteen  or  twenty  hours' 
iiration,  in  the  oak  region  of  the  mountain, 
Ihen  not  a  drop  fell  in  the  valley  below. 
Inumerable  small  streams  have  their  rise  and 
kurse  through  these  foot  hills,  which  never 

ch  the  river  of  the  valley,  but  are  absorbed 

its  light  soil.    The  Iprge  streams  coming 

Bm  the  upper  parts  of  the  mountain  make 
klleys  of  their  own,  of  fertile  soil,  covered 
(ith  luxuriant  grass  and  interspersed  with 
roves.    This  is  the  general  character  of  the 

ot  hills  throughout  the  entire  length  c-    le 


Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin  valleyB— a  broad 
belt  of  country,  and  probably  destined  to  be* 
come  a  vine-growing,  as  well  as  a  grain  and 
pastoral  country. 

Ihccmber  9. — Entered  the  valley  of  the  Sa- 
cmmento.  Fresh,  green  gmss,  fur  eight  or  ten 
miles  into  the  valley,  cattle  feeding  upon  it,  or 
lying  under  the  shade  of  trees — the  shade 
lioing  pleasant  to  our  own  feelings.  Further 
in,  towards  the  middle  of  the  valley,  where 
tlip  spring  rains  had  not  yet  commenced,  the 
I'ountry  looked  pareiied  and  dry,  the  grass 
oaten  down  by  the  cattle,  which  were  quite  fat 
and  fine  beef. 

Ascent,  December  and  January,  1845-'46, 
latitude  37"^.  Entering  the  mountain  by  the 
Rio  Reyes  of  Tulare  Lake,  (December  24,) 
wo  found  its  general  character  very  similar  to 
what  it  was  in  the  more  northern  part,  (lati- 
tude 39°,)  the  timber  perhaps  less  heavy  and 
more  open,  and  the  mountain  generally  more 
rough,  extremely  rocky  in  the  upper  parts, 
but  wooded  up  to  the  granite  ridges  which 
compose  its  rocky  eminences.  At  the  eleva- 
tion of  3500  feet,  the  ridges  were  covered  with 
oaks  and  pines  intermixed,  and  the  bottom 
lands  with  oaks,  cotton-wood,  and  sycamores. 
Small  varieties  of  evergreen  oaks  reached  the 
observed  height  of  9480  feet,  at  which  eleva- 
tion pinus  lambcrtiani,  and  other  varieties  of 
pine,  fir,  and  cypress,  were  large  and  lofly 
trees.  During  the  latter  part  of  December 
and  first  days  of  January  the  average  tempera- 
ture of  the  oak  region,  going  to  about  5000 
feet  above  the  sea,  was,  at  sunrise,  34°.6,  and 
at  sunset  50°.5.  In  the  piney  region,  between 
this  height  and  1100  feet,  the  average  at  sun- 
rise was  28°.7,  and  at  sunset  30°.4.  The 
lowest  observed  temperature  was  at  sunset  of 
January  1,  when  the  sky  had  entirely  cleared 
after  a  severe  snow-storm.  The  thermometer 
then  stood  at  8°.5,  the  elevation  above  the  sea 
being  9400  feet.  Descending  to  the  oak 
region,  spring  weather,  rain  and  sunshine, 
prevailed.  At  an  elevation  of  4500  feet,  the 
temperature,  at  the  night  encampment  of  the 
3d  day  of  January,  was  38°  at  sunset,  and  the 
same  at  sunrise,  the  grass  green,  and  growing 
freshly  under  the  oaks.  The  snow-line  was 
then  at  about  6000  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.  Rain  had  begun  to  fall  in  the  valley  of 
the  San  Joaquin  in  this  latitude  (37°)  on  the 
20th  of  December,  and  enow  at  the  same  time 
upon  the  summit  of  the  mountain.  The  mean 
temperature  of  the  mountain  during  this  ascent 
and  descent  (December  24  to  January  8)  was 
3l°.G  at  sunrise,  40°.4  at  sunset. 

Descent  by  Mr.  Kern's  party,  latitude  35° 
30',  December  and  January.  Mr.  Kern,  with 
a  detached  party,  had  crossed  the  Sierra  about 
one  hundred  miles  further  south,  nearly  oppo- 
site the  head  of  the  Tulare  Lakes,  and  re- 
mained encamped  in  a  valley  or  cove,  near  the 
summit  of  the  Sierra,  at  the  head  of  Kern's 
River,  from  December  27  to  January  17; 
the  cove  well  wooded  with  evergreen  oaks, 
some  varieties  of  pine,  firs,  and  cedars,  main- 
taining the  usual  majestic  growth  which  cha- 
racterizes the  cone-bearing  trees  of  the  Sierra. 


so 


GEOGRAPHICAL  MEMOIR. 


Until  the  I'jth  of  January  the  weather  almost 
that  of  summer,  when  the  rains  commenced, 
which  was  almost  three  weeks  lutitr  than  in 
latitude  37°.  The  I7th  there  was  a  fall  of 
snow,  washed  off  in  the  cove  by  a  rain  in  tlit! 
afternoon,  the  hiffh  ridj^cs  remaining  covered 
a  foot  deep.  The  mean  temperature  in  the 
cove  from  December  27  to  January  17  was,  at 
sunrise,  20° — at  noon,  60°— at  sunHct,  52°. 
Afltr  that,  snow  and  rain,  alternated  with 
sunshine,  snow  remainin|j  on  thti  ridjjes,  and 
winter  set  in  fairly  on  all  the  upper  half  of  the 
mountain. 

JlHceul  about  latitude  11°,  (Ai)ril  and  May,) 
April  26, 1846 — head  of  the  lower  Sacramento 
valley.  Left  the  river  Sacramento,  ifoinir  up  one 
of  the  many  pretty  little  streams  that  flow  into 
the  river  around  the  head  ofthe  lower  valley.  On 
either  side,  low  steep  ridges  were  covered  alonir 
their  sunmiits  with  pine,  and  oaks  occupied 
the  somewhat  broad  bottoms  of  the  creek. 
Snowy  peaks  made  the  horizon  on  tbe  right, 
and  the  temperature  at  noon  was  71°,  but  the 
day  was  still  and  hot.  The  small  streams  are 
numerous  here,  and  have  much  bottom  land  ; 
{Trass  and  acorns  abundant,  and  both  of  excel- 
lent (juality.  Encamped  in  the  evening  in 
latitude  40°  38'  58",  elevation  above  the  sea 
1080  feet,  temperature  at  sunset  56°,  weather 
pleasant.  Grisly  bears  numerous,  four  being 
killed  by  the  hunters  after  we  !iad  encamped. 

JiprH  27. — Found  a  good  way  along  a  flat 
ridge,  a  pretty,  open  mountain  stream  on  the 
right,  the  country  beginning  to  assume  a 
mountainous  character,  wooded  with  mingled 
oak  and  long-leaved  pine,  and  having  a  sur- 
face of  scattered  rocks,  with  grass  and  flowers. 
At  noon,  crossing  a  high  ridge,  the  thermo- 
meter showed  61  .  At  night,  at  an  elevation 
of  2460  feet,  we  encamped  on  a  creek  that 
went  roaring  into  the  valley ;  temperature  at 
sunset  52°. 

28th,  continued  up  the  stream  on  which  we 
had  encamped,  the  country  rising  rapidly, 
clothed  with  heavy  timber.  On  crossing  one 
of  the  high  ridges,  snow  and  pinua  lambertiani 
appeared  together.  An  hour  before  noon, 
reached  the  pass  in  tbe  main  ridge,  in  an  open 
pine  forest,  elevation  4600  feet,  thermometer 
at  50°,  latitude  near  41°.  Snow  in  patches, 
and  deciduous  oaks  mixed  with  the  pines. 

Returning  upon  a  different  line,  towards  the 
lower  valley  of  the  Sacramento,  near  its  head, 
we  found  in  the  descent  a  truly  magnificent 
forest.  It  was  composed  mainly  of  a  cypress 
and  a  lofty  white  cedar  {Thuya  ^iu:aniea)  one 
hundred  and  twenty  to  one  hundred  and  forty 
feet  high,  common  in  the  mountiiins  of  Cali- 
fornia. All  were  massive  trees;  but  the  cy- 
press was  distinguished  by  its  uniformly  great 
bulk.  None  were  seen  so  large  as  are  to  be 
found  in  tlie  coast  mountains  near  Santa  Cruz, 
but  there  was  a  greater  number  of  large  trees 
—seven  feet  being  a  common  diameter — carry- 
ing the  bulk  eighty  or  a  hundred  feet  without 
a  limb.  At  an  elevation  of  4600  feet  the  tempera- 
ture at  sunset  was  48°,  and  at  sunrise  37°. 
Oaks  already  appeared  among  the  pines,  but 
did  not  yet  show  a  leaf.    In  the  meadow 


marshes  of  the  loreit  gross  was  green,  but  not 
yet  abundant,  and  the  deer  were  poor.  Do* 
scemling  the  flanks  of  the  mountain,  which  fell 
gradually  towards  the  plain,  the  way  was 
through  the  same  deep  forest.  At  the  olova- 
tion  of  about  3000  feet  the  timber  had  become 
more  open,  the  hills  rolling,  and  many  streams 
made  pretty  bottoms  of  rich  grass ;  the  black 
oaks  in  full  and  beautiful  leaf  were  thickly 
studded  among  the  open  pines,  which  had 
become  much  smaller  and  fewer  in  variety, 
and  wlien  we  halted  near  midday,  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  2200  feel,  we  were  in  one  of  the  most 
pleasant  days  of  late  spring ;  cool  and  sunny, 
with  a  pleasant  breeze,  amidst  a  profusion  of 
various  (lowers;  many  trees  in  dark  summer 
foliage,  and  some  still  in  bloom.  Amonjf 
these  tbe  white  spikes  of  the  horse-chestnut, 
connnon  through  all  the  oak  region,  were  con- 
spicuous. We  had  again  reached  summer 
weather,  and  the  temperature  at  noon  was 
70°. 

In  the  afternoon  we  descended  to  the  open 
valley  of  the  Sacramento,  1000  feet  lower, 
where  the  thermometer  was  68°  at  sunset,  and 
54°  at  sunrise.  This  was  the  best  timbered 
region  that  I  had  seen,  and  the  more  valuable 
from  its  position  near  the  head  of  the  lower 
valley  of  the  Sacramento,  and  accessible  from 
its  waters. 

J)ny  of  San  Francisco  and  dependent  country, 
— The  Bay  of  San  Francisco  has  been  cele- 
brated, from  the  time  of  its  first  discovery,  as 
one  of  the  finest  in  the  world,  and  is  justly 
entitled  to  that  character  even  under  the  sea- 
man's view  of  a  mere  harbour.  But  when  all 
the  accessory  advantiiges  which  belong  to  it — 
fertile  and  picturesque  dependent  country; 
mildness  and  salubrity  of  climate  ;  connection 
with  the  great  interior  valley  of  the  Sacra- 
mento and  San  Joaquin ;  its  vast  resources  for 
ship-timber,  grain  and  cattle — when  these  ad- 
vantages are  taken  into  the  account,  with  its 
geographical  position  on  the  line  of  communi- 
cation with  Asia,  it  rises  into  an  importance 
far  above  that  of  a  mere  harbour,  and  deserves 
a  particular  notice  in  any  account  of  maritime 
California.  Its  latitudinal  position  is  that  of 
Lisbon  ;  its  climate  is  that  of  southern  Italy ; 
settlements  upon  it  for  more  than  half  a  cen- 
tury attest  its  healthiness;  bold  shores  and 
mountains  give  it  grandeur ;  the  extent  and 
fertility  of  its  dependent  country  give  it  great 
resources  for  agriculture,  commerce,  and  popu- 
lation. 

The  Bay  of  San  Francisco  is  separated  from 
the  sea  by  low  mountain  ranges.  Looking 
from  the  peaks  of  the  Sierra  Ne-'ada,  the  coast 
mountains  present  an  apparency  continuous 
line,  with  only  a  single  gap,  resembling  a 
mountain  pass.  This  is  the  entrance  to  the 
^reat  bay,  and  is  the  only  water  communica- 
tion from  the  coast  to  the  interior  country. 
Approaching  i'rora  the  sea,  ti  3  coast  presents 
a  bold  outline.  On  the  south,  the  bordering 
mountains  come  down  in  a  narrow  ridge  of 
broken  hills,  terminatinf  in  a  precipitous 
point,  against  which  the  sea  breaks  heavily. 
On  the  northern  side,  the  mountain  presents  a 


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GEOGRAPHICAL  M£M01R. 


A 


bold  promontory,  risinff  in  a  few  mileii  to  a 
height  of  two  or  three  thousand  feet.  Between 
these  points  is  thu  stmit — about  uno  mile 
broad  in  tlie  narrowest  part,  and  five  miles 
lon((  from  the  sou  to  the  bay.  Passing  through 
this  gate,*  the  bay  onens  to  tlie  right  and  left, 
extending  in  each  ilireotion  about  thirty-five 
miloa,  having  a  total  length  of  more  than 
seventy,  and  a  coast  of  about  two  hundred  and 
seventy-five  miles.  It  is  divided,  by  straits 
and  projecting  j)oint8,  into  three  separate  bays, 
of  which  the  northern  two  are  called  San  Pa- 
blo and  Suisoon  bays.  Within,  the  view  pre- 
sented is  of  a  mountainous  country,  the  bay 
resembling  an  interior  lake  of  deep  water,  lying 
between  parallel  ranges  of  mountains.  Islands, 
which  have  the  bold  character  of  the  shores — 
Bome  mere  masses  of  rock,  and  others  grass- 
covered,  rising  to  the  height  of  three  and  eight 
hundred  foot — break  its  surface,  and  add  to  its 
pictures(iue  appearance.  Directly  fronting  the 
entrance,  mountains  a  few  miles  from  the 
shore  rise  about  3000  feet  above  the  water, 
crowned  by  a  forest  of  the  lofty  cypress,  which 
is  visible  trom  the  sea,  and  makes  a  conspicu- 
ous landmark  for  vessels  entering  the  bay. 
Behind,  the  rugged  peak  of  Mount  Diavolo, 
nearly  1000  feet  high,  (3770,)  overlooks  the 
surrounding  country  of  the  bay  and  San  Joa- 

?[uin.  The  immediate  shore  of  the  bay  derives, 
rom  its  proximate  and  opposite  relation  to  the 
sea,  the  name  of  contra  coda,  (counter-coast, 
or  opposite  coast.)  It  presents  a  varied  cha- 
racter of  rugged  and  broken  hills,  rolling  and 
undulating  land,  and  rich  alluvial  shores 
backed  by  fertile  and  wooded  ranges,  suitable 
for  towns,  villages,  and  farms,  with  which  it 
is  beginning  to  be  dotted.  A  low  alluvial 
bottom  land,  several  miles  in  breadth,  with 
occasional  open  woods  of  oak,  borders  the  foot 
of  the  mountains  around  the  southern  arm  of 
the  bay,  terminating  on  a  breadth  of  twenty 
miles  in  the  fertile  valley  of  St.  Joseph,  a 
narrow  plain  of  rich  soil,  lying  between  ranges 
from  two  to  three  thousand  feet  high.  The 
valley  is  openly  wooded  with  groves  of  oak, 
free  irom  underbrush,  and,  after  the  spring 
rains,  covered  will]  grass.  Taken  in  connec- 
tion with  the  valley  of  San  Juan,  with  which 
it  forms  a  continuous  plain,  it  is  fifty-iive  miles 
long  and  one  to  twenty  broad,  opening  into 
smaller  valleys  among  the  hills.  At  the  head 
of  the  bay  it  is  twenty  miles  broad,  and  about 
the  same  at  the  southern  end,  where  the  soil 
is  beautifully  fertile,  covered  in  summer  with 
four  or  five  varieties  of  wild  clover  several  feet 
high.  In  many  places  it  is  overgrown  with 
wild  mustard,  growing  ten  or  twelve  feet  high, 
in  almost  impenetrable  fields,  through  which 
roads  are  made  like  lanes.  On  both  sides  the 
mountains  are  fertile,  wooded,  or  covered  with 
grasses  and  scattered  trees.  On  the  west  it  is 
protected  from  the  chilling  influence  of  the 
north-west  winds  by  the  cuesta  de  los  gatos, 

•  Called  Chrysopylie  (gotaon  gate)  on  the  map,  on  the 
same  principle  that  the  harbour  of  Byzaiitium  (Constanti- 
nople aftorwards)  was  called  CItrysoceras  (golden  horn.) 
The  form  of  the  harbour,  and  its  advantages  for  commerce, 
(and  that  before  it  became  an  entrepot  of  eastern  com- 


(wild-cat  rid|fe,)  which  lepnmteB  it  from  the 
coast.  This  is  a  grassy  and  timbered  moun- 
tiiin,  watercil  with  small  streams,  and  wooded 
on  both  sides  with  many  varieties  of  trees  and 
shrubbery,  the  heavier  forests  of  pine  and 
cypress  occupying  the  western  slope.  Timber 
and  shingles  are  now  ohtiiined  from  this  monn< 
tain  ;  and  one  of  tlw!  recently  discovered  ipiick- 
si'ver  mines  is  on  the  eastern  side  of  the 
mountain,  near  the  Pueblo  of  San  Jose.  Thi« 
range  terminates  on  the  south  in  the  Anno 
Nuevo  |)oint  of  Monterey  Uay,  and  on  the 
north  declines  into  a  ridge  of  broken  hills 
about  five  miles  wide,  between  the  bay  and 
the  sea,  and  having  the  town  of  San  Fran- 
cisco on  the  bay  shore,  hear  its  northern  extre- 
mity. 

Sheltered  from  the  col  1  winds  and  fogs  of 
the  sea,  and  having  a  soil  of  remarkable  fer- 
tility, the  valley  of  St.  Joseph  (San  Jose)  is 
capable  of  producing  in  great  perfection  many 
fruits  and  grains  wTiich  do  not  thrive  on  the 
coast  in  its  immediate  vicinity.  Without 
taking  into  consideration  the  extraordinary 
yields  which  have  sometimes  occurred,  the 
fair  average  product  of  wheat  is  estimated  at 
fifty  fold,  or  fifty  for  one  sown.  The  mission 
establishments  of  Sana  Clara  and  San  Jose,  in 
the  north  end  of  the  valley,  were  formerly,  in 
the  prosperous  days  of  the  missions,  distin- 
guished for  the  superiority  of  their  wheat 
crops. 

The  slope  of  alluvial  land  continues  entirely 
around  the  eastern  shore  of  the  bay,  intersected 
by  small  streams,  and  oflering  some  points 
which  good  landing  and  deep  water,  with  ad- 
vantageous positions  between  the  sea  and 
interior  country,  indicate  for  future  settle- 
ment. 

The  strait  of  Carquines,  about  one  mile 
wide  and  eight  or  ten  fathoms  deep,  connects 
the  San  Pablo  and  Suisoon  bays.  Around 
these  bays  smaller  valleys  open  into  the  bor- 
dering country,  and  some  of  the  streams  have 
a  short  launch  navigation,  which  serves  to 
convey  produce  to  the  bay.  Missions  and 
large  farms  were  established  at  the  head  of 
navigation  on  these  streams,  which  are  favour- 
able sites  for  towns  or  villages.  The  country 
around  the  Suisoon  bay  presents  smooth  low 
ridges  and  rounded  hills,  clothed  with  wild  oats, 
and  more  or  less  openly  wooded  on  their  sum- 
mits. Approaching  its  northern  shores  from 
Sonoma,  it  assumes,  though  in  a  state  of  na- 
ture, a  cultivated  and  beautiful  appearance. 
Wild  oats  cover  it  in  continuous  fields,  and^ 
herds  of  cattle  and  bands  of  horses  are  scat- 
tered over  low  hills  and  partly  isolated  ridges, 
where  blue  mists  and  openings  among  the 
abruptly  terminating  hills  indicate  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  bay. 

The  Suisoon  is  connected  with  an  expan- 
sion of  the  river  formed  by  the  junction  of  the 
Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin,  which  enter  the 


merce,)  suggested  the  name  b '  the  Oreek  founders  of  *By- 
cantium.  The  form  of  the  entrance  into  the  Bay  of  8mi 
Francisco,  and  its  advantages  for  commerce,  (Asistlo 
inclusive,)  suggest  the  name  which  is  siven  to  this  en- 
trance. ,^_        ,;  ,    .  „ 


GEOGRAPHICAL  MEMOIR. 


ill 


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''} 


Frftnoiaco  Bav  in  the  same  latitude,  nearly,  as 
the  mouth  of  the  Tagus  at  Lisbon.  A  delta 
of  twenty-five  milee  in  length,  divided  into 
islands  by  deep  channels,  connects  the  bay 
with  the  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin  and  Sacra- 
mento, into  the  mouths  of  which  the  tide  flows, 
and  which  enter  the  bay  together  as  one  river. 

Such  is  the  bay,  and  the  proximate  country 
and  shores  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco.  It 
is  not  a  mere  indentation  of  the  coast,  but  a 
little  sea  to  itself,  coh^ected  with  the  ocean 
by  a  defensible  ^a^c,  opening  out  between 
seventy  and  eighty  miles  to  the  right  and  left, 
upon  a  breadth  of  ten  to  fifteen,  deep  enough 
for  the  largest  ships,  with  bold  shores  suitable 
for  towns  and  settlements,  and  fertile  adjacent 
country  for  cultivation.  The  head  of  the  bay 
is  about  forty  miles  from  the  sea,  and  there 
commences  its  connection  with  the  noble  val- 
leys of  the  San  Joaquin  and  Sacramento. 

Coast  Country  north  of  the  Bay  of  San  Fran- 
CISCO, — Between  the  Sacramento  valley  and 
the  coast,  nort'i  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco, 
the  country  is  broken  into  mountain  ridges  and 
rolling  hills,  with  many  very  fertile  valleys, 
made  by  lakes  and  small  streams.  In  the 
interior  it  is  wooded,  generally  with  oak,  and 
immediately  along  the  coast  presents  open 
prairie  lands,  among  heavily  timbered  forests, 
having  a  greater  variety  of  trees,  and  occa- 
sionally a  larger  growth  tlian  the  timbered 
region  of  the  Sierra  Nevada.  In  some  parts 
it  is  entirely  covered,  in  areas  of  many  miles, 
with  a  close  growth  of  wild  oats,  to  the  exclu- 
sion of  almost  every  other  plant.  In  the  lat- 
ter part  of  June  and  beginning  of  July,  we 
found  here  a  climate  sensibly  different  from 
that  of  the  Sacramento  valley,  a  few  miles 
east,  being  much  cooler  and  moistcr.  In  clear 
weather,  the  mornings  were  like  those  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains  in  August,  pleasant  and 
cool,  following  cold  clear  nights.  In  that 
part  lying  nearer  the  coast,  we  found  the 
mornings  sometimes  cold,  accompanied  with 
chilling  winds ;  and  fogs  frequently  came 
rolling  up  over  the  lidgesfrom  the  sea.  These 
sometimes  rose  at  evening,  and  continued 
until  noon  of  the  next  day.  They  are  not 
dry,  but  wet  mists,  leaving  the  face  of  the 
country  covered  as  by  a  drizzling  ruin.  This 
sometimes  causes  rust  in  wheat  grov/n  within 
its  influence,  but  vegetables  flourish  and  attain 
extraordinary  size. 

I  learned  from  Captain  Smith,  a  resident  at 
Bodega,  that  the  winter  months  m;ike  a  de- 
.lightful  season— rainy  days  (generally  of  warm 
showers)  alternating  with  mild  and  calm, 
pleasant  weather,  and  pure  bright  skies— much 
preferable  to  the  summer,  when  the  fogs  and 
strong  north-west  winds,  which  prevail  dur- 
ing the  greater  part  of  the  year,  make  the 
morning  part  of  the  day  disagreeably  cold. 

Owing  probably  to  the  fogs,  spring  is  earlier 
along  the  coast  than  in  the  interior,  where, 
during  the  interval  between  the  rains,  the 
ground  beer  nes  very  dry.  PMowers  bloom  in 
December,  and  by  the  beginning  of  February 
grass  acquires  a  strong  and  luxuriant  growth, 
and  fruit  trees  (peach,  pear,  apple,  &c.)  are 


covered  with  blossoms.  In  situations  imme- 
diately open  to  the  sea  the  fruit  ripens  late, 
general'-'  at  the  end  of  August,  being  retarded 
by  the  chilling  influence  of  the  north-west 
winds:  a  short  distance  inland,  where  inter- 
vening ridges  obstruct  these  winds  and  shelter 
the  face  of  the  country,  there  is  a  different 
climate  and  a  remarkable  difference  in  the 
time  of  ripening  fruits ;  the  heat  of  the  sun 
has  full  influence  on  the  soil,  and  vegetation 
goes  rapidiy  to  perfection. 

The  country  in  July  began  to  present  the 
dry  appearance  common  to  all  California  as 
the  summer  advances,  except  along  the  north- 
ern coast  within  the  influence  of  the  fogs,  or 
where  the  land  is  sheltered  by  forests,  and  in 
the  moist  valleys  of  streams  an  1  coves  of  the 
hills.  In  some  of  these  was  an  uncommonly 
luxuriant  growth  of  oats,  still  partially  green, 
while  elsewhere  they  were  dried  up ;  the  face 
of  the  country  presenti  ig  generally  a  mellow 
and  ripened  appearance,  and  the  small  streams 
beginning  to  lose  their  volume,  and  draw  up 
into  the  hills. 

This  northern  part  of  the  coast  country  is 
heavily  timbered,  more  so  as  it  goes  north  to 
the  Oregon  boundary,  (42°,)  with  many  bold 
streams  falling  directly  into  the  sea. 

The  Country  between  the  Bays  of  San  Fran- 
cisco and  Monterey. — In  the  latter  part  of  Jan'i- 
ary,  1846,  a  few  shrubs  and'  flowers  were 
already  in  bloom  on  the  sandy  shore  of  Mon- 
terey Bay,  (latitude  30°  40'.)  Among  these 
were  the  California  poppy,  and  nemophila  in- 
sigtiis. 

On  the  5th  February,  I  found  many  shrubs 
and  plants  in  bloom  in  the  coast  mountains 
bordering  St.  Joseph's  valley,  between  Mon- 
terey and  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco ;  and 
vegetation  appeared  much  more  green  and 
spring-like,  and  further  advanced,  than  in  the 
plains.  About  the  middle  of  February  I 
noticed  the  geranium  in  flower  in  the  valley ; 
and  from  that  time  vegetation  began  generally 
to  bloom.  Cattle  were  obtained  in  February, 
from  ranches  among  the  neighbouring  hills, 
extremely  fat,  selected  from  the  herds  in  the 
range. 

During  the  months  of  .January  and  February 
rainy  days  alternated  with  longer  intervals  at 
fair  and  pleasant  weather,  which  is  the  charac- 
ter of  the  rainy  season  in  California.  The 
mean  temperature  in  the  valley  of  St.  Joseph 
— open  to  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco — from  the 
LSth  to  the  2-2d  of  February,  was  50°  at  sun- 
rise, and  61°  at  sunset.  The  oaks  in  this  val- 
ley, especially  along  the  foot  of  tlie  hills,  are 
partly  covered  with  long  hanging  moss— an 
indication  of  much  humidity  in  the  climate. 

We  remained  several  days,  in  the  latter  part 
of  February,  in  the  upper  portion  of  the  coast 
mountain  between  St.  Joseph  and  Sai.ia  Cruz. 
The  place  of  our  encampment  was  2000  feet 
above  the  sea,  and  was  covered  with  a  luxu- 
riant growth  of  grass,  a  foot  high  in  many 
places.  At  sunrise  the  temperature  was  40°; 
at^  noon  60° ;  at  4  in  the  afternoon  65°  ;  and 
63'  at  sunset ;  with  very  pleasant  weather. 
The  mountains  were  wooded  with  many  varie- 


wmmmtm 


wmmm 


GEOGRAPHICAL  MEMOIR. 


» 


oms.  In  situations  imme- 
e  sea  the  fruit  ripens  late, 
d  of  August,  being  retarded 
ifluence  of  the  north-west 
stance  inland,  where  inter- 
uct  these  winds  and  shelter 
untry,  there  is  a  different 
narkable  difference  in  the 
uits ;  the  heat  of  the  sun 
on  the  soil,  and  vegetation 
'ection. 

July  began  to  present  the 
mmon  to  all  California  as 
es,  except  along  the  north- 
e  influence  of  the  fogs,  or 
sheltered  by  forests,  and  in 
f  streams  an  I  coves  of  the 
these  was  an  uncommonly 
f  oats,  still  partially  green, 
ey  were  dried  up ;  the  face 
sent!  ig  generally  a  mellow 
ancc,  and  the  small  streams 
their  volume,  and  draw  up 

art  of  the  coast  country  is 
nore  so  as  it  goes  north  to 
iry,  (42°,)  with  many  bold 
ictly  into  the  sea. 
vcen  the  Bays  of  San  Fran- 
—In  the  latter  part  of  Jan-i- 
shrubs  and  flowers  were 
in  the  sandy  shore  of  Mon- 
e  3G°  40'.)  Among  those 
1  poppy,  and  nemophila  in- 

uary,  I  found  many  shrubs 
Im  in  the  coast  nicuntains 
ph's  valley,  between  Mon- 
y  of  San  Francisco;  ami 
id  much  more  green  and 
•ther  advanced,  than  in  the 
ie  middle  of  February  I 
m  in  flower  in  the  valley ; 
vegetation  began  generally 
ivere  obtained  in  February, 
ng  the  neighbouring  hills, 
ted  from  the  herds  in  the 

bs  of  .lanuary  and  February 
id  with  longer  intervals  a( 
jather,  which  is  the  charac- 
5ason  in  California.  The 
in  the  valley  of  St.  Joseph 
)f  San  Francisco — from  the 
February,  was  50°  at  sun- 
set. The  oaks  in  this  val- 
g  the  foot  of  twe  hills,  are 
1  long  hanging  moss — an 
humidity  in  the  climate, 
eral  days,  in  the  latter  part 
upper  portion  of  the  coast 
it.  .loseph  and  Sai.ta  Cruz, 
ncampment  was  2000  feet 
was  covered  with  a  luxu- 
>ss,  a  foot  high  in  many 
the  temperature  was  40"; 
n  the  afternoon  65° ;  and 
h  very  pleasant  weather, 
i  wooded  with  many  varie- 


ties of  trees,  and  in  some  parts  with  heavy 
forests.  These  forests  are  characterized  by  a 
cypress  (tuxodium)  of  extraordinary  dimen- 
sions, already  mentioned  among  the  trees  of 
the  Sierra  Nevada,  which  is  distinguished 
among  the  forest  trees  of  America  by  its  supe- 
rior si7,e  and  height.  Among  many  which  we 
measured  in  tliis  part  of  the  mountain,  nine 
ara  "m  feet  diameter  was  frequent — eleven 
sometimes;  but  going  beyond  eleven  only  in 
a  single  tree,  which  reached  fourteen  feet  in 
diameter.  Above  ( . 'o  hundred  feet  was  a 
frequent  height.  In  this  locality  the  bark  was 
very  deeply  furrowed,  and  unusually  thick, 
being  fully  sixteen  inches  in  some  of  the  trees. 
The  tree  was  now  in  bloom,  flowering  near 
the  summit,  and  the  flowers  consequently  diffi- 
cult to  procure.  This  is  the  staple  timber-tree 
of  the  country,  being  cut  into  both  boards  and 
shingles,  and  is  the  principal  timber  sawed  at 
the  mills.  It  is  soft,  and  easily  worked,  wear- 
ing away  too  quickly  to  be  used  for  floors.  It 
seems  to  have  all  the  durability  which  anciently 
gave  the  cypress  so  much  celebrity.  Posts 
which  I'ave  been  exposed  to  the  weather  for 
three  quarters  of  a  century  (since  the  founda- 
tion of  the  missions)  show  no  marks  of  decay 
in  the  wood,  and  are  now  converted  into  beams 
and  posts  for  private  buildings.  In  California 
this  tree  is  called  the  palo  Colorado.  It  is  the 
king  of  trees. 

Among  the  oaks  is  a  handsome  lofty  ever- 
green species,  specifically  diiferent  from  those 
of  the  lower  grounds,  and  in  its  general  appear- 
ance much  restmbling  hickory.  The  bark  is 
smooth,  of  a  white  colour,  and  the  wood  hard 
and  close-grained.  It  seems  to  prefer  the  north 
hill-sides,  were  some  were  nearly  four  feet  in 
diameter  and  a  hundred  feet  high. 

Another  remarkable  tree  of  these  woods  is 
called  in  the  language  of  the  country  madrono. 
It  is  a  beautiful  evergreen,  with  large,  thick, 
and  glossy  digitate  leaves,  the  trunk  and 
brancnes  reddish  coloured,  and  having  a 
smooth  and  singularly  naked  appearance,  as  if 
the  bark  had  been  stripped  ou.  In  its  green 
state  the  wood  is  brittle,  very  heavy,  hard,  and 
,  close-grained ;  it  is  said  to  assume  a  red  colour 
when  dry,  sometimes  variegated,  and  suscep- 
tible of  a  high  polish.  This  tree  was  found 
by  us  only  in  the  mountains.  Some  measured 
nearly  four  feet  in  diameter,  and  wetc  about 
sixty  feet  high. 

A  few  scattered  flowers  were  now  showing 
throughout  the  forests,  and  on  the  open  ridges 
shrubs  were  flowering ;  but  the  bloom  was 
not  yet  general. 

On  the  aSth  February,  we  descended  to  the 
coast  near  the  north-western  point  of  Monterey 
bay,  losing  our  fine  weather,  which  in  the 
evening  changed  into  a  coid  south-easterly 
storm,  continuing  with  heavy  and  constant 
rains  for  several  days. 

During  this  time  the  mean  temperature  was 
53°  at  sunrise,  5*5". 5  at  9  a.  m.,  57". 5  at  noon, 
54°. 5  at  2  in  the  afternoon,  53^.4  at  4,  and 
62°.7  at  sunset.  On  the  28th,  a  thick  fog  was 
over  the  bay  and  on  the  mountains  at  sunrise, 
and  the  thermometer  was  at  38" — 15'^  below 


the  ordinary  temperati're— rising  at  9  o'clock 
to  59°.  These  fogs  prevail  along  the  coast 
during  a  great  part  of  the  summer  and  autumn, 
b'lt  do  not  cross  the  ridges  into  the  interior. 
This  locality  is  celebrated  for  the  excellence 
and  great  size  of  its  vegetables,  (especially  the 
Irish  potato  and  onions,)  with  which,  for  this 
reason,  it  has  for  many  years  supplied  the  ship- 
ping which  visits  Monterey.  A  forest  of  pala 
Colorado  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains  in  this 
Vicinity,  is  noted  for  tiie  great  size  and  height 
of  the  trees.  I  measured  one  which  was  275 
feet  in  height,  and  fifteen  feet  in  diameter, 
three  feet  above  the  base.  Though  this  was 
distinguished  by  the  greatest  girth,  other  sur- 
rounding trees  were  but  little  inferior  in  size 
and  still  taller.  Their  colossal  height  and 
massive  bulk  give  an  air  of  grandeur  to  the 
forest. 

These  trees  grow  tallest  in  the  bottom  lands, 
and  prefer  moist  soils  and  north  hill-sides.  In 
situations  where  they  are  protected  from  the 
prevailing  north-west  winds,  they  shoot  up  to 
a  great  height;  but  wherever  their  heads  are 
exposed,  these  winds  appear  to  chill  them  and 
stop  their  growth.  They  then  assume  a  spread- 
ing shape,  with  larger  branches,  and  an  appa- 
rently broken  summit. 

The  rain  storm  closed  with  February,  and 
the  weatlier  becoming  fine,  on  the  1st  of  March 
we  resumed  our  progress  along  the  coast. 
Over  the  face  of  the  country  between  Santa 
Cruz  and  Montorey,  and  around  the  plains  of 
St.  John,  the  grass,  which  had  been  eaten 
down  by  the  large  herds  of  cattle,  was  now 
everywhere  springing  up ;  flowers  began  to 
show  their  bloom,  and  in  the  valleys  of  the 
mountains  bordering  the  Salinas  plains,  (a 
plain  of  some  fifty  miles  in  length,  made  by 
the  Salinas  River,)  wild  oats  wore  three  feet 
high,  and  well  headed,  by  the  Gth  of  March. 

During  three  days  that  we  remained  on  one 
of  these  mountains,  at  an  elevation  of  2200 
feet  above  the  sea,  and  in  sight  of  Monterey, 
the  mean  temperature  was  44°  at  sunrise,  55° 
at  9  in  the  morning,  60°  at  noon,  62°  at  2  in 
the  afternoon,  57°  at  4,  and  53°  at  sunset.  At 
the  same  hours,  the  dew-point  was  at  42°.0, 
48°.  1,  52°.8, 54°.9,  52°.9, 51°.6,  and  the  quan- 
tity of  moisture  in  a  cubic  foot  of  air,  3.283 
grains,  3.982  grains,  4.72G  grains,  4.97i;  grains, 
4.682  grains,  and  4.558  grai'.\3,  respectively. 
The  weather  remained  bright  and  pleasant ; 
fogs  sometimes  covering  the  mountains  at  sun- 
rise, but  going  oflF  in  a  fuw  hours.  These  are 
open  mountains,  untimbered;  but  fertile  in 
oats  and  other  grasses,  aflbrding  fine  range  for 
cattle.  Oaks  and  pines  are  scattered  thinly 
over  then  upper  parts,  and  in  the  higher  and 
more  exposed  situations  the  evergreen  caks 
show  the  course  and  influence  of  the  north- 
west winds,  stunted  and  blighted  by  their 
chillness,  bent  to  the  ground  by  their  force, 
and  growing  in  that  form. 

Descending  into  the  valley  of  the  San  Joa- 
quin, (March  11th,)  we  found  almost  a  sum- 
mer temperature,  and  the  country  clothed  in 
the  floral  beauty  of  advancing  spring. 

Southern  Co'..iiry  and  Rainy  Season^  {lati- 


Si 


GEOGRAPHICAL  MEMOIR. 


^t( 


I; 


1 


tudes  32°— 35  .)— South  of  Point  Ooncepcion, 
the  climate  and  general  appearance  of  the  coun- 
try exhibit  a  marked  change.  The  coast  from 
that  cape  Vends  almc^t  directly  east,  the  face 
of  the  country  has  a  more  southern  exposure, 
and  is  sheltered  by  ranges  of  low  mountains 
from  the  violence  and  chilling  effect  of  the 
north-west  winds ;  hence  the  climate  is  still 
more  mild  and  genial,  fostering  a  richer  variety 
of  productions,  differing  in  kind  from  those  of 
the  northern  coast. 

The  face  of  the  country  along  the  coast  is 
generally  naked,  the  lower  hills  and  plains  de- 
void of  trees,  during  the  summer  heats  parched 
and  bare,  and  water  sparsely  distributed.  The 
higher  ridges  and  the  cou,.-y  in  their  imme- 
diate vicinity  are  always  more  or  less,  and 
sometimes  prettily,  wooded.  These  usually 
afford  water  and  good  green  grass  throughout 
the  year.  When  the  plains  have  become  dry, 
parched  and  bare  of  grass,  the  cattle  go  up  into 
these  ridges,  where,  %viih  cooler  weather  and 
shade,  they  find  water  and  good  pasture.  In 
the  dryest  part  of  the  year  we  found  sheep  and 
cattle  fat,  and  saw  flowers  blooming  in  all  the 
months  of  the  year.  Alonsf  the  foot  of  the 
main  ridges  the  soil  is  rich  and  comparatively 
moist,  wooded,  with  grass  and  water  abund- 
ant ;  and  many  localities  would  afford  beauti- 
ful and  productive  farms.  The  ranges  of  the 
Sierra  Nevada  (here  approaching  its  termina- 
tion) still  remain  high — some  peaks  always 
retaining  snow — and  afford  copious  streams, 
which  run  all  the  year.  Jlany  of  these 
streams  are  absorbed  in  the  light  soil  of  the 
larger  plains  before  they  reach  the  sea.  Pro- 
perly directed,  the  water  of  these  riv?rs  is 
sufficient  to  spread  cultivation  over  the  plains. 
Throughout  the  country  e*  ery  farm  or  rancho 
has  its  own  springs  or  running  stream  suffi- 
cient for  the  support  of  stock,  which  hitherto 
has  made  the  chief  object  of  industry  in  Cali- 
fornia. 

The  soil  is  generally  good,  of  a  sandy  or 
light  character,  easily  cultivated,  and  in  many 
places  of  extrairdinary  fertility.  Cultivation 
has  always  been  by  irrigation,  ar.d  the  soil 
seems  to  require  only  water  to  produce  vigor- 
ously. Among  the  arid  brush-covert^  hills 
south  of  San  Diego,  we  found  little  valleys 
converted  by  a  single  spring  into  crowded  gar- 
dens, w;Jiere  pears,  peaches,  quinces,  pome- 
granates, grapes,  olives,  and  other  fruits  grew 
luxuriantly  together,  the  little  stream  acting 
upon  them  like  a  principle  of  life.  The  south- 
ern frontier  of  this  portion  of  Ct/iifornia  seems 
eminently  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  the 
vine  and  the  olive.  A  single  vine  has  been 
known  to  yield  a  barrel  of  wine ;  and  the  olive 
trees  are  burdened  with  the  weight  of  fruit. 

During  the  month  of  August  the  days  are 
bright  and  hot,  the  sky  pure  and  entirely  cloud- 
less, and  the  nights  cool  and  beautifully  se  ene. 
In  this  month  Iruits  generally  ripen — melons, 
pears,  peaches,  prickly  fig,  {cactus  tuna,)  &c. 
— and  large  bunche.=i  of  ripe  grapes  aie  scat- 
tered numerously  through  the  vineyards,  but 
do  not  reach  maturity  until  the  following 
month.    After  the  vintage,  grapes  are  hung  up 


in  the  houses,  and  so  kept  for  use  throughout 
the  winter. 

The  mornings  in  September  are  cool  and 
generally  delightful — we  sometimes  found 
them  almost  cold  enough  to  freeze — the  mid- 
day hours  bright  and  hot,  but  a  breeze  usually 
made  the  shade  pleasant;  the  evenings  calm, 
and  nights  cool  and  clear  when  unobscured  by 
fogs.  We  reached  the  southern  country  at 
the  end  of  July;  and  the  first  clouds  we  saw 
appeared  on  the  6th  September  at  sunset,  gradu- 
ally spreading  over  the  sky,  and  the  morning 
was  cloudy,  but  clear  again  before  noon.  Light- 
ning at  this  time  was  visible  in  the  direction 
of  Sonora,  where  the  rainy  season  had  already 
commenced,  and  the  cloudy  weather  was  per- 
haps indicative  of  its  approach  here.  On  some 
nights  the  dews  were  remarked  to  be  heavy ; 
and  as  we  were  journeying  along  the  coast  be- 
tween San  Diego  and  Santa  Barbara,  fogs  occa- 
sionally obscured  the  sunset  over  the  ocean, 
and  ros6  next  morning  with  the  sun.  On  the 
wooded  plain,  at  the  foot  of  the  San  Gabriel 
mountain,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Santa 
Barbara,  and  frequently  along  the  way,  the 
trees  were  found  to  be  partly  covered  with 
moss. 

Country  between  the  Santa  Barbara  Moun- 
tain  and  Monterey,  {latitude  34°  SCC  to  30°  30'.^ 
— About  the  middle  of  September  we  encamped 
near  the  summit  of  the  Cucsla  de  Santa  Lies, 
(Santa  Barbara  Mountain,)  on  a  little  creek 
with  cold  water,  good  fresh  grass,  and  much 
timber;  and  thenceforward  north  along  the 
miuniain  behind  the  Santa  Ines  mission,  the 
country  assumed  a  better  appearance,  generally 
well  wooded  and  tolerably  well  covered  with 
grass  of  good  quality — very  different  from  the 
dry,  naked,  and  parched  appearance  of  the  coun- 
try below  Santa  Barbara.  The  neighbouring 
mountain  exhibited  large  timber,  redwood  or 
pine,  probably  the  latter.  Water  was  frequent 
in  small  running  streams.  Crossing  the  fer- 
tile plain  of  San  Luis  Obispo,  (lat.  35  ,)  a  shel- 
tered valley  noted  for  the  superiorit'  of  its 
olives,  we  entered  the  Santi  Lucia  range,  which 
lies  between  the  coast  and  the  Salinas,  or 
Buenaventura  River  (of  the  Bay  of  Monterey.) 
We  found  this  a  beautiful  mountain,  covered 
thickly  with  wild  oats,  prettily  wooded,  and 
having  on  the  side  we  ascended  (which  is  the 
water  shed)  in  every  little  hollow  a  running 
stream  of  cool  water,  which  the  weatlier  made 
delightful.  The  days  were  hot,  at  evening 
cool,  and  the  morning  weather  clear  and  ex- 
hilarating. Descending  into  the  valley,  we 
found  it  opea  and  handsome,  making  a  pleas- 
ing country,  well  wooded,  and  everywhere 
covered  with  grass  of  a  good  quality.  The 
coast  range  is  wooded  on  both  sides  and  to  the 
summit  with  varieties  of  oaks  and  pines.  The 
upper  part  of  the  Salinas  valley,  where  we  are 
now  travelling,  would  afford  excellent  stock 
farms,  and  is  particularly  well  suited  to  sheep. 
The  country  never  becomes  miry  in  the  rainy 
season,  and  none  are  lost  by  cold  in  the  mild 
winter. 

The  good  vange,  grass  and   acorns,  made 
game  abundant,  and  deer  and  grisly  bear  were 


■  W»l|lil.  '    ,i«<-t" 


•  t.i^.4J^ 


GEOGRAPHICAL  MEMOIR. 


9» 


numerous.    Twelve  of  the  latter  were  killed 
by  the  party  in  one  thicket. 

Lower  down,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  San 
Miguel,  the  country  changed  its  appearance, 
losing  its  timbered  and  grassy  character,  and 
showing  much  sand.  The  past  year  had  been 
one  of  unusual  drought,  and  the  river  had 
almost  entirely  disappeared,  leaving  a  bare 
sandy  bed  with  a  few  pools  of  water.  About 
fifteen  miles  below  San  Miguel  it  enters  a 
gorge  of  the  hills,  making  broad  thickly- 
wooded  bottoms,  and  affording  gor)d  range  and 
abundance  of  water,  the  bed  bein^  alieltered  by 
the  thick  timber.  The  lower  hills  and  spurs 
from  the  ranges,  bordering  the  river,  are  very 
dry  and  bare,  affording  little  or  no  grass.  Ap- 
proaching the  mission  of  Soledad,  the  river 
valley  widens,  making  fertile  bottoms  anu 
plains  of  arable  land,  some  fifteen  to  twenty 
miles  broad,  extending  to  Monterey  Bay,  and 
bordered  by  ranges  of  mountain  from  two  to 
three  thousand  feet  high.  These  ranges  have 
the  character  of  fertile  mountains,  their  hills 
being  covered  with  grass  and  scattered  trees, 
and  their  valleys  producing  fields  of  wild  oats, 
and  wooded  with  oak  groves.  Being  unshel- 
tered by  woods,  water  is  not  abundant  in  the 
dry  season,  but  at  the  end  of  September  we 
found  springs  among  the  hills,  and  water  re- 
mained in  the  creek  beds. 

On  the  evening  of  the  25th  September,  cu- 
mull  made  their  appearance  in  the  sky,  and 
the  next  morning  was  cloudy  with  a  warm 
southerly  wind  and  a  few  drops  of  rain — the 
first  of  tile  rainy  season.  The  weather  then 
continued  uninterruptedly  dry  through  all  Octo- 
ber— fair  and  bright  during  the  first  part,  but 
cloudy  during  the  latter  half.  At  the  end  of 
the  month  the  r.any  season  set  in  fully,  con- 
sisting generally  of  rain  squalls  with  bright 
weather  intervening,  and  occasional  south- 
easterly storms  continuing  several  days.  The 
previous  seasons  had  been  very  short  and  light 
for  several  years,  and  the  country  had  suffered 
from  the  consequent  drought.  The  present 
season  commenced  early,  and  was  very  favour- 
able. Much  rain  fell  in  the  low  country,  and 
snow  accumulated  to  a  great  depth  in  the  high 
mountains.  The  first  rains  changed  the  face 
of  the  country.  Grass  immediately  began  to 
shoot  up  rapidly,  and  by  the  end  of  the  first 
week  of  November  the  dead  hue  of  the  hills 
around  Monterey  had  already  given  place  to 
green. 

A  brief  sketch  of  the  weather  during  a  jour- 
ney in  this  year  from  the  mission  of  San  Juan 
Bauptista  (latitude  37°)  to  Los  Angeles  will 
exhibit  the  ordinaiy  character  of  the  season. 

In  tile  valley  of  San  Juan,  during  the  latter 
half  of  November,  there  was  no  rain ;  the 
weatiier,  generally,  pleasant  and  bright,  with 
occasional  clouds.  The  nigiit  clear  and  cool, 
occasionally  cold;  the  mornings  clear  and  sharp 
with  hoar  frost  sometimes  covering  the  ground. 
The  days  were  warm  and  pleasant,  and  the 
evenings  mild  and  calm.  On  some  mornings 
a  thick  fog  settled  down  immediately  after 
sunrise,  but  in  a  few  hours  cleared  off  into  a 
pleasant  day. 


The  falling  weather  recommenced  on  the 
30th,  with  a  stormy  day  of  spring ;  blue  sky 
in  spots,  rapidly  f^cceeded  by  masses  of  dark 
clouds  and  pouring  raiq,  which  fell  heavily 
during  greater  part  of  the  night. 

The  morning  of  the  1st  December  was  par- 
tially clear,  but  rain  recommenced  in  a  few 
hours,  with  sky  entirely  clouded.  The  weather 
brightened  at  noon,  and  from  a  high  point  of 
the  hills  bordering  the  San  Juan  Uiver  valley, 
up  which  we  were  travelling,  snow  was  visi- 
ble on  summits  of  tiie  dividing  range  between 
the  San  Joaquin  valley  and  the  coast.  It  rained 
heavily  and  incessantly  during  the  night,  and 
continued  all  the  next  day.  fn  the  night  the 
sky  cleared  off  bright  with  a  north  wind,  but 
clouded  up  at  morning,  with  rain  and  a  broken 
sky.  There  were  showers  of  rain  during  the 
day.  with  intervals  of  bright  and  hot  sun ;  and 
the  sky  at  sunset  was  without  a  cloud. 

During  tiie  day  and  night  of  the  4th,  there 
were  occasional  showers.  The  sky  was  toler- 
ably clear  on  th(  morning  of  the  5th,  with  a 
prospect  of  fair  weather.  The  tents  were 
frozen,  and  snow  appeared  on  the  near  ridges. 
We  were  then  in  a  small  interior  valley  of  the 
mountains,  bordering  the  Sali  las  River,  and 
about  1000  feet  above  the  sea. 

December  the  6th  was  a  beautiful  day,  fol- 
lowed by  a  cold  frosty  night. 

The  next  day  we  descended  to  the  valley  of 
the  Salinas  River,  the  weather  continuing  clear 
and  pleasant  during  the  day.  Snow  appeared 
on  the  mountains  on  both  sides  of  the  valley, 
and  a  cloud  from  some  of  them  gave  a  slight 
shower  during  the  night.  Several  successive 
days  were  clear  with  hot  sun ;  the  niglits  cold, 
starry,  and  frosty.  The  new  grass  on  the  hills 
was  coming  out  vigorously.  The  morning  of 
the  10th  was  keen  and  clear,  with  fcattered 
clouds,  and  a  southerly  wind,  which  brought 
up  showers  of  rain  at  night,  followed  by  fog 
in  the  morning. 

On  the  12th,  at  the  mission  of  Santa  Marga- 
rita, in  the  head  of  the  Salinas  valley,  rain  be- 
gan in  the  afternoon,  with  a  cold  wind,  and 
soon  increased  to  a  south-easterly  storm,  with 
heavy  rain  during  all  the  night.  The  13th  was 
cloudy,  with  occasional  showers.  During  the 
night  the  weather  became  very  bad,  and  by 
morning  had  increased  to  a  violent  and  cold 
south-easterly  rain  storm.  In  the  afternoon  the 
storm  subsided,  and  was  followed  by  several 
days  of  variable  weather. 

By  the  19th,  the  country  where  we  were 
travelling  between  San  Luis  Obispo  and  the 
Cuesta  of  Santa  Ines,  showed  a  handsome 
covering  of  grass,  which  required  two  weeks 
more  to  become  excellent.  There  were  seve- 
ral days  of  warm  weather,  with  occasional 
showers  and  hot  sun,  and  cattle  began  to  seek 
the  shade. 

The  23d  was  a  day  of  hard  rain,  followed 
by  fine  weather  on  the  24th,  and  a  cold  south 
easterly  rain  storm  on  the  25th. 

During  the  remainder  of  the  year,  the  weathei 
continued  fiiir  and  cool. 

No  rain  fell  during  the  first  half  of  .January, 
which  we  passed  betweeen  Santa  Barbara  and 
C 


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GEOGRAPHICAL  MEMOIR. 


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Los  Angeles :  tlie  days  were  bright  and  very 
pleaoant,  with  warm  sun ;  and  the  nights,  ^ne- 


of  San  Francisco  and  the  coast  between  Point 
Concepcion  and  Cape  Mendocino.  Of  these 
rally,  cold.  In  the  neglected  orcha"nls  of  the  three  divisions  the  rainy  season  is  longeiU  and 
San  Buenaventura  and  Fernando  missions,  the  j  heaviest  in  the  north  and  lightest  in  the  south, 
olive  trees  remained  loaded  with  tlie  abundant  Vegetation  is  governed  accordingly— coming 
fruit,  which  continued  in  perfectly  good  con-  with  the  rains— decaying  where  they  fail.  J>um- 
jitjQ„  mer  and  winter,  m  our  sense  of  the  terms,  are 

About  the  14lh,  a  day  of  rain  succeeded  by  not  applicable  to  this  part  of  the  country.  It 
an  interval  of  fine  weather,  again  interrupted  is  not  heat  and  cold,  but  wet  and  dry,  which 
by  a  rainy,  disa<rreeable  south-easter  on  the ,  mark  the  seasons;  and  the  winter  months,  in- 
23d.  During  tlie^remainder  of  the  month  the  I  stead  of  killing  vegetation,  revive  it.  Fne  dry 
days  were  bright  and  pleasant— almost  of  sum-  season  makes  a  period  of  consectutiye  drought, 
mer — sun  and  clouds  varying;  the  nighu  clear, 


but  sometimes  a  little  cold ;  and  much  snow 
showing  on  the  mountain  overlooking  the 
plains  of  San  Gabriel, 

In  the  first  part  of  February,  at  Los  Angeles, 
there  were  some  foggy  and  misty  mornings, 
with  showers  of  rain  at  intervals  of  a  week. 
The  weather  then  remained  for  several  weeks 
uninterruptedly  and  beautifully  serene,  the  sky 
remarkably  pure,  the  air  soft  and  grateful,  and 


the  only  winter  in  the  vegetation  of  this  coun- 
try, which  can  hardly  be  said  at  any  time  to 
cease.  In  forests,  where  the  soil  is  sheltered  ; 
in  low  lands  of  streams  and  hilly  country, 
where  the  ground  remains  moist,  grass  con- 
tinues constantly  green  and  flowers  bloom  in 
all  the  months  of  the  year.  In  the  southern 
half  of  the  country  the  long  summer  drought 
has  rendered  irrigation  necessary,  and  the  ex- 
pfciLnce  of  the  missions,  in  their  prosperous 


it  wad  difficult  to  imagine  any  climate  more '  day,  has  shown  that,  in  California,  as  else' 
delightful.  In  the  mean  lime  the  processes  of  where,  the  dryest  plains  are  made  productive, 
vegetation  went  on  with  singular  rapidity,  and,  and  the  heaviest  croj  s  produced  by  tliat  mode 
by  the  end  of  the  month,  tlie  face  of  the  coun-  of  cultivation.  With  irrigation,  a  succession 
try  was  beautiful  with  the  great  abundance  of  |  of  crops  may  be  prodncvd  througiiout  tlie  year, 
pasture,  covered  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  Salubrity  and  a  regulated  mildness  characterize 
geranium,  {erudium  cicutnrium,)  so  esteemed  the  climate;  there  being  ^o  prevailing  dis- 
as  food  for  cattle  and  horses,  and  all  gmzing  eases,  and  the  extremes  of  heat  during  the 
animals.  The  orange  inses  were  crowded  with  '  summer  being  checked  by  sna-breezcs  during 
fl'iwers  and  fruit  in  various  sizes  ;  and  along;  the  day,  and  by  light  airs  from  the  Sierra  Ne- 
the  foot  of  the  mounlain,  bordering  the  San  |  vada  during  the  night.  The  nights  are  gene- 
Gabriel  plain,  fields  of  crange-coloured  flowers  :  rally  cool  and  refreshing,  as  is  the  shade  dur- 
were  visible  at  the  distance  of  fifteen  miles  i  ing  the  hottest  day. 
from  Los  Angclrs.  California,    below    the  Sierra   Nevada,   is 

In  the  midst  of  the  bright  weatlier  there  was  ■  about  the  extent  of  Italy,  geographically  con- 
occasionally  a  cola  night.  In  the  morning  of,  sidered  in  all  the  extent  of  Italy  from  the  Alps 
March  9  new  snow  -.ippoarcd  nn  llie  San  Ga-  i  to  the  termination  of  the  peninsula.  It  is  of 
briel  mountain,  and  there  was  frost  in  the  plain  '  the  same  length,  about  the  same  breadth,  con- 
below  ;  but  tliese  occasionally  cold  nights 
seemed  to  have  no  influence  on  vegetation. 

On  the  23d  and  2Ttli  of  March  there  were 
some  continued  and  heavy  showers  of  rain,  | 

about  tlie  last  of  the  season  in  the  southern !  differences  of  climate  and  productions,  the 
country.  In  the  latter  part  of  April,  fogs  began  |  effect  of  difference  of  latitude,  proximity  of 
to  be  very  frequent,  rising  at  midnight  and  |  high  mountains,  and  configuration  of  the  coast, 
continuing  until  9  or  10  of  the  following  morn- 1  Like  Italy,  it  is  a  country  of  mountains  and 
ing.  About  the  beginning  of  .May  the  morn- !  valleys:  different  from  it  in  its  internal  struc- 
ings  were  regularly  foggy  until  near  noon;jture,  it  is  formed  for  unity;  its  large  rivers 
the  remainder  of  the  day  sunny,  frequently  ac-  j  being  concentric,  and  its  large  valleys  appur- 
companied  with  high  wind.  i  tenaiitto  the  greatcentral  bay  of  San  Francisco, 

The  climate  of  maritime  California  is  greatly  !  within  the  area  of  whose  waters  the  dominat- 
modilied  hy  the  structure  of  the  country,  and  |  ing  power  must  be  found, 
under  this  aspect  may  be  considered  in  three  |  Geographically,  the  position  of  this  Califor- 
divisions — the  southern,  below  Point  Concep-  i  nia  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  world  ;  lying  on 
cion  and  the  Santa  Barbara  Mountain,  nbout  i  the  coast  of  the  Pacific,  fronting  Asia,  on  the 
latitude  35°;  the  /wrt/iem,  from  Cape  Mendo-^  line  of  an  American  road  to  Asia,  and  possessed 
cino,  latitude  41°,  to  the  Oregon  boundary ;,  of  advantages  to  give  full  effect  to  its  grand 
and  the  middk,  including  the  bav  and  basin  \  geographical  position. 


.■+  .- 


sequently  the  same  area,  (about  one  hundred 
thousand  square  miles,)  and  presents  much  simi- 
larity of  climate  and  productions.  Like  Italy, 
it  lies  north  and  south,  and  presents  some 


•1    V.-.-1 


.     I  •  *  !.,_'      / 


.f?t.   '.*. 


-'I 


ther 
Gen 


„a-,~:.^,— -  J-J.^-  -,~,^,.-  — ^.Jt.— 4- 


■"•'■ft'^/v'V -.V  .-  ,  ■     ,?ul^-n^iH'^   f:iii:     v4,    ,-.   ^,-   ,i-r-»v.^^: 


•■'■"♦ 


•   >    "^tt-: 


HAKLUYT'S  YOYAGES. 


Selected  from  Richard  HaklvyCa  Collection  of  the  Voyages,  Navigations,  Traffiques  and  Discoueries  of 
the  English  Nation.  Imprinted  at  London  by  Oeorge  Bishop,  Ralfe  Newberie  and  Robert  Barker. 
Anno  Dom.  1600. 


The  course  which  Sir  Francis  Drake  held 
from  the  hauen  of  Guatulco  in  the  South  Sea 
on  the  backe  side  of  Nueua  Espanna,  to  ths 
Northwest  of  California  as  far  as  fourtie  three 
degrees  :  and  his  returne  back  along  the  said 
Coast  to  thirtie  eight  degrees :  where  finding 
a  faire  and  goodly  hauen,  he  landed,  and  stay- 
ing there  many  weekes,  and  discouoring  many 
excellent  things  in  the  country  and  great 
shewe  of  rich  minerall  matter,  and  being 
offered  the  dominion  of  the  countrey  by  the 
Lord  of  the  same,  hee  tooke  possession  thereof 
in  the  hehalfe  of  her  Maiestie  and  named  it 
Nona  Albion. 

The  fift  day  of  June  being  in  fortie  three 
degrees  towardes  the  pole  Articke  being 
speedih'  pome  out  of  the  extreame  heate,  we 
found  the  ayre  so  colde,  that  our  men  being 
pinclicd  with  the  same,  complayned  of  the  ex- 
tremitie  thereof,  and  the  further  we  went,  the 
more  the  colde  increased  upon  us,  whereupon 
we  Uir.ught  it  best  for  that  time  to  seeke  land, 
and  did  so,  finding  it  not  mountainous,  but 
low  plaine  iJind  &  we  drew  backe  againe  with- 
out landing,  til  we  came  within  thirtie  eight 
degrees  towardes  the  line.  In  which  height 
it  pleased  God  to  send  us  into  a  faire  and  good 
13ay,  with  a  good  winde  to  enter  the  same. 

In  this  Bay  Wv.  tinkered  the  seventeenth  of 
June,  and  the  people  of  the  countery,  hauing 
their  houses  close  by  the  waters  side,  shewed 
themselves  unto  us,  and  sent  a  present  to  our 
Generall. 

When  they  came  unto  us,  they  greatly  won- 
dred  at  the  things  which  we  brought,  but  our 
Generall  (according  to  his  naturall  and  accus- 
tomed humanitie)  curteously  intreated  them, 
and  liberally  bestowed  on  them  necessarie 
things  to  couer  their  nakednesse,  whereupon 
they  supposed  us  to  be  gods,  and  would  not 
be  perswaded  to  the  contrary;  the  presenles 
wliicii  they  sent  unto  our  Generall  were 
feathers,  and  cals  of  net  worke. 

Their  houses  are  digged  round  about  with 
earth,  and  liaue  from  the  uttermost  brimmes 
of  the  circle  clefts  of  wood  set  \ipon  them 
ioyning  close  together  at  thetoppe  like  a  spire 
steeple,  wliich  by  reason  of  that  closenesse 
are  very  warme. 

Their  bed  is  the  ground  with  rushes  strawed 
on  it,  and  lying  about  the  house,  they  bauethe 
fire  in  the  middest.  The  men  goe  naked,  the 
women  take  bulrushes  and  kembe  them  after 
the  maner  of  hempe,  and  thereof  make  tticnr 
loose  garments,  which  being  knit  about  their 


middles,  hang  downe  about  their  hippes,  hau> 
ing  also  about  their  shoulders  a  skinne  of 
Deere,  with  the  haire  upon  it.  These  women 
are  very  obedient  and  seruiceable  to  their  hus- 
bands. 

After  they  were  departed  from  us,  they  came 
and  visited  us  the  second  time,  and  brought 
with  them  feathers  and  bags  of  Tobacco  for 
presents :  And  when  they  came  to  the  toppe 
of  the  hil  (at  the  bottome  whereof  wee  had 
pitched  our  tents)  they  stayed  themselues, 
where  one  appointed  for  speaker,  wearied  him- 
selfe  with  making  a  long  oration,  which  done, 
they  left  their  howes  upon  the  iiill  and  came 
downe  with  their  presents. 

In  the  meantime  the  women  remaining  on 
the  hill,  tormented  themselves  lamentably, 
tearing  their  flesh  from  their  cheekes,  where- 
by we  perceived  that  they  were  about  a  sacri- 
fice. In  the  meane  time  our  Generall,  with  his 
companie,  went  to  prayer,  and  to  reading  of 
the  Scriptures,  at  which  exercise  they  were 
attentiue  and  seemed  greatly  to  be  affected  with 
it;  but  when  they  were  come  unto  us  they 
restored  againe  unto  us  those  things  which  be- 
fore we  had  bestowed  upon  them. 

The  newcs  of  our  being  there  being  spread 
through  the  countrey,  the  people  that  inhabited 
round  about  came  downe,  and  amongst  them 
the  King  himself,  a  man  of  goodly  stature, 
and  comely  personage,  and  many  other  tall  and 
warlike  men;  before  whose  comming  were 
sent  two  Ambassadoursto  our  Generall,  to  sig- 
nifie  that  their  King  was  comming,  in  doing 
of  which  message,  their  speech  was  continued 
about  halfe  an  houre.  This  ended,  they  by 
signes  requested  our  Generall  to  send  some- 
thing by  their  hand  to  their  king,  as  a  token 
that  his  comming  might  bee  in  peace  :  wherein 
our  Generall  hauing  satisfied  them,  they  re- 
turned with  glad  tidings  to  their  King,  who 
marched  to  us  with  a  princely  Maiestie,  the 
people  crying  continually  after  their  maner, 
a-d  as  they  drewe  neere  unto  us,  so  did  they 
strive  to  behaue  themselves  in  their  actions 
with  comelinesse. 

In  the  fore  front  was  a  man  of  a  goodly 
personage,  who  bore  the  Gcopter,  a  mace  before 
the  King,  whereupon  hanged  two  crownes,  a 
lesse  and  a  bigger,  with  three  chaines  of  a  mar- 
ueilous  length  :  the  crownes  were  made  of  knit 
work  wrought  artificially  with  feathers  of  di- 
ners colours  :  the  chaines  were  made  of  a  bony 
substance  and  few  be  the  persons  among  them 
that  are  admitted  to  wears  them :  and  of  that 

27 


■1  il 


■•'m 


mtm 


28 


MP 


HAKLUYT'S  VOYAGE  TO  CALIFORNIA. 


H  I 


I 


number  also  the  persons  are  stinted,  as  some 
ten,  some  twelve,  &c.  Next  unto  him  which 
bare  the  scepter  was  the  King  himselfe,  with 
his  Guarde  about  his  person,  clad  with  Conie 
skinnes,  and  other  skinnes :  after  them  fol- 
lowed the  naked  common  sort  of  people,  euery 
one  hauing  his  face  painted  with  white,  some 
with  blacks,  and  other  colours,  and  hauing  in 
their  hands  one  thing  or  other  for  a  present, 
not  so  much  as  their  children,  but  they  also 
brought  their  presents. 

In  the  mean  time,  our  Generall  gathered  his 
men  together,  and  marched  within  his  fenced 
place,  making  against  their  approching,  a 
very  warlike  shewe.  They  being  trooped  to- 
gether in  their  order,  and  a  general  salutation 
being  made,  there  was  presently  a  generall 
silence.  Then  he  that  bare  the  scepter  before 
the  King,  being  informed  by  another,  whome 
they  assigned  to  that  office,  with  a  manleyand 
loftie  voice,  proclaimed  that  which  the  other 
spake  to  him  in  secret,  continuing  halfe  an 
houre ;  which  ended,  and  a  general!  Amen  as 
it  were  giuen,  the  King  with  the  whole  number 
ofmen,and  women  (thechildren  excepted^  came 
downe  without  any  weapon,  who  descending  to 
the  foote  of  the  hill,  set  themselves  in  order. 

In  coming  towards  our  bulwarks  and  tents, 
the  scepter  bearer  began  a  song,  obseruing  his 
measures  in  a  dance,  and  that  with  a  stately 
countenance,  when  tiie  King  with  his  Garde, 
and  tniery  degree  of  persons  following,  did  in 
like  manner  sing  and  dance,  sauing  onely  the 
women  which  dauneed  and  kept  silence.  The 
generall  permitted  them  to  enter  within  our 
bulwark,  where  they  continued  their  song  and 
daunce  a  reasonable  time.  When  they  had 
satisfied  themselves,  they  made  signes  to  our 
Generall  to  sit  downe,  to  whom  the  King,  and 
divers  others  made  seueral  orations,  or  rather 
supplication,  that  he  would  take  their  prouince 
and  kingdom  into  his  hand,  and  become  their 
King,  making  signes  that  they  would  resigne 
unto  him  their  right  and  title  of  the  whole 
land,  and  become  his  subiects.  In  which  to 
perswade  us  the  V  ,.jr,  the  King  and  the  rest, 
with  one  consent  and  with  great  reuerence, 
joyfully  singing  a  song,  did  let  the  crowne 
upon  his  head,  inriched  his  necke  with  all 
llieir  chaines,  and  offered  unto  him  many  other 
things,  honouring  him  by  the  name  of  Hioh, 
adding  thereunto  as  it  seemed  a  signe  of  tri- 
umph :  which  thing  our  Generall  thought  not 
meete  to  reiect,  because  hee  knewe  not  what 
honour  and  profite  it  might  be  to  our  countrey. 
Wherefore  in  the  name,  and  to  the  use  of  Ma- 
iestic  he  tooke  the  scepter,  crowne  and  digni- 
tie  of  the  said  countrey  in  his  hands,  wishing 
that  the  riches  and  treasure  thereof  might  so 
conueniently  be  transported  to  the  inriching 
of  her  kingdome  at  home  as  it  aboundeth  in 
the  same. 

The  common  sort  of  the  people  leaning  the 
Kin?  and  his  Guarde  with  our  Generall,  scat- 
tf  themselves  together  with  their  sacrifices 
I      Lig  our  people,  taking  a  diligent  viewe  of 


euery  person ;  and  such  as  pleased  their  fancio 
(which  were  the  yongest)  they  inclosing  them 
about  oft'red  their  sacrifices  unto  them  with 
lamentable  weeping,  scratching  and  tearing 
the  flesh  from  their  faces  with  their  nayles  : 
whereof  issued  abundance  of  blood. 

But  wee  hied  signes  to  them  of  disliking 
this,  and  stayed  their  hands  from  force,  and 
directed  them  upwardes  to  the  living  God, 
whome  onely  they  ought  to  worshippe.  They 
shewed  unto  us  their  wounds,  and  craned  heipe 
of  them  at  our  handes,  whereupon  wee  gaue 
them  lotions,  plaisters,  and  ointments  agreeing 
to  the  state  of  their  griefes,  beseeching  God  to 
cure  their  deseases.  Euery  thirde  day  they 
brought  their  sacrifices  unto  us,  untill  they 
understoode  our  meaning,  that  we  had  no  plea- 
sure in  them :  yet  they  could  not  be  long  ab- 
sent from  us,  but  daily  frequented  our  com- 
pany to  the  houre  of  our  departure,  which  de- 
parture seemed  so  grieuous  unto  them,  that 
their  ioy  was  turned  into  sorrow.  They  in- 
treated  us,  that  being  absent  wee  would  remem- 
ber them,  and  by  stelth  provided  a  sacrifice, 
which  we  misliked. 

Our  necessarie  businesse  being  ended,  our 
Generall  with  his  companie  traueiled  up  into 
the  countrey  to  their  villages,  where  we  found 
heardes  of  Deere  by  a  thousand  in  a  compa- 
nie, being  most  large  and  fat  of  body. 

We  found  the  whole  countrey  to  bee  a  war- 
ren of  a  strange  kinde  of  Conies,  their  bodyes 
in  bignes  as  be  the  Barbary  Conies,  their 
heads  as  tlie  heades  of  ours,  the  feet  of  a  Maut, 
and  the  taile  of  a  Rat  being  of  great  length : 
under  her  chinne  on  either  side  a  bagge  into 
the  which  shee  gathereth  her  meate  when  she 
hath  filled  her  belly  abroad.  The  people  eate 
their  bodies,  and  make  great  account  of  their 
skinnes,  for  their  King's  coate  was  made  of 
them. 

Our  Generall  called  this  countrey,  Nona 
Albion,  and  that  for  two  causes,  the  one  in 
respect  of  the  white  bankes  and  clifTes  which 
ly  towardes  the  sea ;  and  the  other,  because  it 
might  haue  some  affinitie  with  our  countrey  in 
name,  which  sometime  was  so  called. 

There  is  no  part  of  earth  here  to  bee  taken 
up,  wherein  there  is  not  some  speciall  likeli- 
hood of  gold  or  silver. 

At  our  departure  hence  our  Generall  set  up 
a  monument  of  our  being  there ;  as  also  of  her 
Maiesties  right  and  title  to  the  same,  namely 
a  plate  nailed  upon  a  faire  great  poste,  where- 
upon was  ingrauen  her  Maiesties  name,  the 
day  and  yeere  of  our  arriuall  there,  with  the 
free  giuing  up  of  the  Prouince  and  people  into 
her  Maiestie's  hands,  together  with  her  high- 
res'  picture  and  armes,  in  a  piece  of  sixe 
pence  of  current  English  money  under  the 
plate,  where  under  was  also  written  the  name 
of  our  Generall. 

It  seemeth  that  the  Spaniards  hitherto  had 
neuer  bene  in  this  part  of  the  countrey,  neither 
did  euer  diseouer  the  land  by  many  degrees  to 
the  Southwards  of  this  place. 


/■t^  t^' 


'.)<- ». ' . 


^ 


mmoBBwmgt 


ised  their  fancio 
f  inclosing  them 
anto  them  with 
ng  and  tearing 
h  their  nayles : 

blood. 

nin  of  disliking 
from  force,  and 
the  living  God, 
orshippe.  They 
andcraued  helps 
eupon  wee  gaue 
itments  agreeing 
iseeching  God  to 

thirde  day  they 
I  us,  untill  they 
t  we  had  no  plea- 

not  be  long  ab- 
uented  our  com- 
irture,  which  de- 

imto  them,  that 
)rrow.  They  in- 
ee  would  remem- 
irided  a  sacrifice, 

being  ended,  our 
traueiled  up  into 
,  where  we  found 
sand  in  a  compa- 
of  body. 

trey  to  bee  a  war- 
nies,  their  bodye8 
ary  Conies,  their 
he  feet  of  a  Maut, 
;  of  great  length : 
dde  a  bagge  into 
r  meate  when  she 
The  people  eate 
t  account  of  their 
ate  was  made  of 

countrey,  Noua 
auses,  the  one  in 
and  cliffea  which 
3  other,  because  it 
th  our  countrey  in 
so  called, 
lere  to  bee  taken 
le  speciall  likeli- 

T  Generall  set  up 
gre;  as  also  of  her 
the  same,  namely 
real  poste,  where- 
liesties  name,  the 
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DESCRIPTION  OF  CALIFORNIA. 


Extracts  from  "A  Natural  anil  Cioil  Ifistort/  of  California,  containing  an  Accurate  Description  of  that 
Countnj,  its  Soil,  Mountains,  Uarhours,  Lahe.s,  Rivers,  and  Seas;  its  Anivials,  Veyetahles,  Minerals, 
and.  famous  Finherji  for  I'cnrls.  The  Customs  of  the  Inhabitants.  Their  Relii/ion,  Government, 
and  Manner  of  Living,  before  their  Conversion  to  the  Christian  Religion  bt/  the  Missionary  Jesuits. 
Together  with  Accounts  of  the  .tevernl  Voyages  and  Attempts  made  for  settling  California,  and  taking 
actual  Survci/s  of  that  Countrg,  its  Gulf,  and  Coast  of  the  South  Sea.  Illustrated  ivith  Copper 
Plates,  and  an  Accurate  Map  of  the  Countrg  and  the  Adjacent  Seas.  Translated  from  the  Original 
Spanish  of  Miguel  Venegas,  a  Mexican  Jesuit,  published  at  Madrid,  1758.  In  two  volumes. 
London :  Printed  for  James  Riuington  and  James  Fletcher,  at  the  Oxford  Theatre,  in  Palcr-Noster- 
Row,  1759." 


The  country  which  we  are  going  to  describe, 
is  distinguished  in  the  maps  by  three  different 
names  :  California,  New  Albion,  and  the  Islas 
Carolinas :  but  the  most  ancient  is  that  of 
California,  being  found  in  Bernal  Dias  del 
Castillo,  an  officer  who  served  under  the  fa- 
mous Cortez,  in  the  conquest  of  Mexico,  and 
who  published  a  History  of  that  astonishing 
Expedition.  It  must  however  be  observed 
that  the  name  California  is,  by  this  gentle- 
man, limited  to  one  single  bay.  It  acquired  tjie 
name  of  New  Albion,  from  the  famous  English 
admiral  Sir  Francis  Drake,  who,  in  the  year 
1577,  being  then  on  his  second  voyage  round 
the  world,  touched  at  this  country.  New  Al- 
bion implies  the  same  as  New  England,  or 
New  Britain;  Albion  being  the  ancient  name 
of  the  island  we  now  call  England.  The 
name  Islas  Carolinas  was  not  given  to  this 
country  till  near  a  century  after,  in  honour  of 
Charles  II.  of  Spain,  when,  by  his  order,  the 
conquest  of  California,  then  thought  an  island, 
and  the  others  adjacent,  were  undertaken  with 
a  force  equal  to  the  enterprise.  This  name  is 
used  by  father  Henry  Scherera,  a  German 
Jesuit,  in  his  new  Atlas;  by  M.  de  Fer,  in  a 
small  Atlas  of  the  Spanish  dominions,  and 
which  he  presented  to  king  Philip  V.  on  his 
accession  to  the  throne ;  and  also  by  other 
geographers,  in  their  atlases  and  particular 
maps.  But  that  famous  expedition  being  ren- 
dered abortive,  the  name  has  not  generally  pre- 
vailed. 

The  name  by  which  this  country  is  at  pre- 
sent known,  is  that  of  California,  an  appella- 
tion given  to  it  at  its  first  discovery.  Some 
use  the  name  in  the  plural  number,  calling  it 
the  Californias,  intending  probably  to  include 
that  part  thought  the  principal  island  and  the 
largest  in  the  world,  together  with  a  multitude 
of  lesser  islands  which  surround  it  on  all 
sides.  But  it  being  now  known  that  this 
country  is  no  island,  but  joined  to  the  conti- 
nent of  America,  as  we  shall  presently  show, 
l)ropriety  requires,  that  the  word  should  be 
used  only  in  the  sinfjular  number,  in  conformity 
with  the  military  historian  above-mentioned. 
I  could  wish  to  gratify  the  reader  with  the 


etymology  and  true  origin  of  a  name  which, 
from  the  oddness  of  its  sound,  the  real  mis- 
fortunes which  the  first  discoverers  met  with 
in  that  country,  and  the  great  riches  it  is  sup- 
posed to  contain,  has  greatly  excited  the  curi- 
osity of  the  inhabitants  both  of  New  Spain  and 
Europe.  But  in  none  of  the  various  dialects 
of  the  native?  could  the  missionaries  find  the 
least  traces  of  such  a  name  being  given  cither 
to  the  country,  or  even  to  any  harbour,  bay,  or 
small  portion  of  it.  Nor  can  I  subscribe  to 
the  etymology  of  some  writers,  who  Suppose 
this  name  to  have  been  given  it  by  the 
Spaniards,  on  their  feeling  an  unusual  heat  at 
their  first  landing  here,  and  thence  called  the 
country  California,  a  compound  of  the  two 
Latin  words  calida  fornax,  a  hot  furnace.  I 
believe  few  will  think  our  adventurers  could 
boastof  somuch  literature;  for  though  Del  Cas- 
tillo praises  Cortez  for  his  being  not  only  a 
good  humanist  but  also  an  excellent  poet,  and 
had  taken  the  degree  of  bachelor  of  laws,  we 
do  not  find  that  either  he  or  his  captains  took 
this  method  in  giving  names  to  their  conquests. 
I  am  therefore  inclined  to  think  that  this  name 
owed  its  origin  to  some  accident :  possibly  to 
some  words  spoken  by  the  Indians,  and  mis- 
understood by  the  Spaniards ;  as  happened, 
according  to  a  very  learned  American,  in  the 
naming  of  Peru  ;  and  also,  as  we  shall  shortly 
shew,  in  giving  name  to  the  nation  of  Guay- 
cura. — Vol.  i.  p.  1 — 4. 

The  length  of  California,  from  Cape  San  Lu- 
cas to  the  northern  limit  already  conquered,  is 
about  300  leagues;  besides  which,  about  a 
district  of  a  league  has  been  partly  known  and 
described. 

Its  breadth  is  small  in  proportion  to  its 
length,  for  at  Cape  San  Lucas  it  is  only  10 
leagues,  in  some  places  20,  in  others  30,  and 
in  others  40,  from  one  sea  to  the  other,  accord- 
ing to  the  windings  of  both  coasts.  From  the 
extent  of  the  country,  there  must  naturally  be 
a  difference  in  the  temperature  of  the  air,  and 
the  qualities  of  the  soil.  But  it  may  be  said 
in  general,  that  the  air  is  dry  and  hot  to  a  great 
degree,  and  that  the  earth  is  barren,  rugged, 
wild,  everywhere  overrun  with  mountains, 
c2  29 


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DESCRIPTION  OF  CALIFORNIA. 


rocks,  and  sands,  with  little  water,  and  conse- 
quently unfit  either  for  agriculture,  plantinff,  or 
graziery.  But  to  speak  a  little  more  particu- 
larly ;  for  the  space  of  80  or  30  leagues  from 
Cape  San  Lucas,  the  air  is  of  a  more  kindly 
quality,  the  ground  less  barren  and  rugged, 
and  little  currents  of  water  more  frequent  than 
in  the  other  parts.  From  hence  to  the  garri- 
son of  Loretto,  which  is  near  the  centre  of  the 
conquered  part,  the  heat  is  in  general  excessive, 
the  mountains  craggy,  and  the  earth  dry  and 
barren.  In  the  remaining  part  of  the  con- 
quered country  to  the  furthest  missions  the  air 
is  more  moderate,  so  that  at  some  seasons  of 
tlio  year  water  freezes;  but  the  wild  disposi- 
tion of  the  country  is  the  same.  From  tlie 
28th  degree,  as  far  as  has  been  discovered 
along  the  coast  of  the  peninsula,  the  soil  is 
not  so  rugged  and  full  of  rocl.a  :  yet  with  no 
abatement  of  its  remarkable  sterility.  Father 
Kino  however,  who  crossed  the  River  Colo- 
rado, between  34  and  35  degrees,  and  took  a 
\ery  careful  survey  of  the  countries  to  the 
west  of  this  river,  betwixt  the  channel  of  Santa 
Barbara,  Puerto  de  Monte  Rey,  and  Cape 
Mendocino,  assures  us,  that  ihere  are  level 
and  fruitful  tracts,  interspersed  with  many  de- 
lightful woods,  plenty  of  water,  fine  pastures, 
and  as  proper  a  country  for  making  settlements 
as  can  be  desired.  This  account  is  confirmed 
by  what  General  Vizcaino  met  with  on  the  sea- 
coast  of  those  tracts ;  and  still  more  recently 
by  Father  Taraval's  own  experience  on  the 
coast  of  San  Xavier,  and  in  the  opposite 
islands  de  los  Dolores,  which  form  the  above 
named  channel  of  St.  Barbara.  Both  agree 
that  these  coasts,  either  with  regard  to  the  air, 
or  plenty  of  fruits,  have  little  or  no  affinity 
with  other  parts  of  California. — Vol.  i.  p. 
26—28. 

Father  Torquemada  observes,  that  about 
Monte  Rey  are  very  large  bears,  an  animal 
something  like  a  buffalo,  and  a  creature  very 
different  from  the  tiger,  as  will  ap4)ear  from 
the  following  description  he  has  given  of  it : 
it  is  about  the  bigness  of  a  steer,  but  shaped 
like  a  stag ;  its  hair  resembles  tl  nt  of  a  peli- 
can, and  is  a  quarter  of  a  yard  in  length  ;  its 
neck  long,  and  on  its  head  are  horns,  like 
those  of  a  stag ;  the  tail  is  a  yard  in  length, 
and  half  a  yard  in  breadth,  and  the  feet  cloven 
like  those  of  an  ox. — Vol.  i.  p.  37 — 38. 

It  is  also  proper  to  observe,  that  in  the 
countries  not  hitherto  reduced,  lying  between 
the  River  Colorado  and  the  coasts  of  Monte  Rey 
to  Cape  Mendozina,  both  the  fathers  Kino  and 
Juan  de  Torquemada  relate  that  there  is  a  great 
number  of  large  trees,  holms,  pines,  and  black 
and  white  poplars. 

We  have  not  hitherto  had  any  particular  ac- 
count of  its  minerals ;  but  some  intelligent 


persons  are  of  opinion,  that  the  Sierra  Pintada 
and  other  parts  abound  with  metals,  as  they 
exhibit  all  the  marks  and  appearances  of  gold 
and  silver  mines.  Capt.  Woods  Rogers  says, 
that  some  of  his  men  saw  on  the  coast  of  Cali- 
fornia several  heavy,  glittering,  shining  stones, 
which  they  imagined  to  contain  some  valuable 
metal ;  but  it  was  then  too  late  to  search  for 
them,  or  even  to  carry  them  on  '  lard  for  a 
further  examination.  It  is  indeed  natural  to 
suppose,  that  there  are  very  many  rich  mines 
in  California;  as  the  opposite  coast  in  the  pro- 
vinces of  Sonara  and  Pimeria  are  known  to 
abound  with  them;  for  in  the  year  1730  a 
vein  was  discovered  on  an  eminence,  not  far 
from  the  garrison  of  Pimeria,  the  ore  of  which, 
with  a  little  labour,  yielded  so  large  a  quantity 
of  silver  as  surprised  the  inhabitants  of  New 
Spain ;  and  it  remained  some  time  a  question 
whether  it  was  a  mine,  or  treasures  hid  by 
the  Indians.  Some  have  also  been  discovered 
which  contain  veins  of  other  metals :  rock  salt 
is  also  found  here,  of  a  whiteness  equal  to  crys- 
tal, and  samples  ofit  have  been  carried  to  Mexico. 
But  if  the  soil  of  California  be  in  general 
barren,  the  scarcity  of  provisions  is  sirpplied 
by  the  adjacent  sea ;  for  both  in  the  Pacific 
Ocean  and  the  Gulf  of  California,  the  multitude 
of  fishes  and  their  variety  are  incredible. 
Father  Antonio  de  la  Ascencion,  speaking  of 
the  Bay  of  San  Lucas,  says,  "  With  the  nets 
which  every  ship  carried,  they  caught  a  great 
quantity  of  fish  of  different  kinds,  and  all 
wholesome  and  palatable ;  particularly  holy- 
buss,  salmon,  turbots,  skates,  pilchards,  large 
oysters,  thornbacks,  mackerel,  barbels,  bone- 
tas,  soals,  lobsters,  and  pearl  oysters."  And 
speaking  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  on  the 
western  coast,  he  adds :  "  Here  are  such  muK 
titudes  offish,  that  with  a  net,  which  the  com- 
modore had  on  board,  more  was  caught  every 
day  than  the  ship's  company  could  make  use 
of:  and  of  these  a  great  variety,  as  crabs, 
oysters,  breams,  mackerel,  cod,  barbels,  thorn- 
backs,  &c."  And  in  other  parts  he  makes 
mention  of  the  infinite  number  of  sardines, 
which  are  left  on  the  sand  at  the  ebb,  and  so 
exquisite  that  tiiose  of  Loredo  in  Spain,  then 
famous  for  this  fish,  do  not  exceed  them.  Nor 
are  fish  less  plentiful  along  the  gulf,  where  to 
the  above-named  species  Father  Piccolo  adds 
tunnies,  anchovies,  and  others.  Even  in  the 
littlo  rivulets  of  this  peninsula  are  found  bar- 
bels,and  cray-fish  :  but  the  most  distinguish  i 
fish  of  both  seas  are  the  whales;  which  in- 
duced the  ancient  cosmographers  to  call  Cali- 
fornia, Puntade  Balenas,  or  Cape  Whale :  and 
these  fish  being  found  in  multitudes  along 
both  coasts,  give  name  to  a  channel  in  the 
gulf,  and  a  bay  in  the  South  Sea. — Vol.  i. 
p.  37—48. 


r.'-'."J!*  ^*"""'TT"  ^  I"  iif«^ir^l?°fr«rri'"i — 


■^^■■"ir-    ■■.".*. 


V  n     ,  /»  ^      1^  ..,  ,    1» 


i: 


MONTEREY  AND  VICINITY. 


Extraets  from  "  A  Voi/ajr  round  the  World,  in  the  years  1785,  1786,  1787,  and  1788.  Bif  J.  F.  O. 
De  la  PeroHne.  ruhlkhed  conformahly  to  the  Decree  of  the  National  Assembly,  of  the  22rf  of  April, 
1701,  and  Edited  by  M.  L.  A.  Millet- Mureau,  Brigadier  General  in  the  Corps  of  Engineers,  Director 
of  Fortifications,  Ex-Constituent,  and  Member  of  several  Literary  Societies  at  Paris.  In  Three 
Volumes.  Translated  from  the  French.  Second  Edition.  London  :  Printed  for  J.  Johnson,  St. 
Paul's  Church  Yard,  1799." 


MoNTEHEY  Bay,  formed  by  New  Year  Point 
to  the  north,  and  hy  that  of  Cyprus  to  the  south, 
has  an  opening  of  eight  leagues  in  this  direc- 
tion, and  nearly  six  of  depth  to  the  eastward, 
where  the  land  is  sandy  and  low.  The  sea 
breaks  there  as  far  as  the  foot  of  the  sandy 
downs  with  which  the  coast  is  surrounded, 
with  a  roaring  which  we  heard  more  than  a 
league  off.  The  lands  north  and  south  of  this 
bay  are  high,  and  covered  with  trees ;  those 
ships  which  are  desirous  of  touching  there 
ought  to  follow  the  south  coast,  and  after  hav- 
ing doubled  the  Point  of  Pines,  which  stretches 
to  the  northward,  they  get  sight  of  the  presi- 
dency, and  they  may  come  to  an  anchor  in  ten 
fathoms  within  it,  and  a  little  within  the  land 
of  this  point,  which  shelters  from  the  winds 
from  the  offing.  The  Spanish  ships  which 
propose  to  make  a  long  stay  at  Monterey  are 
accustomed  to  bring  up  within  one  or  two  ca- 
ble's lengths  of  the  land,  in  six  fathoms,  and 
make  fast  to  an  anchorwhich  they  bury  in  the 
sand  of  the  beach  ;  they  have  then  nothing  to 
fear  from  the  southerly  winds,  which  are  some- 
times very  strong,  but  as  they  blow  from  the 
coast,  do  not  expose  them  to  any  danger.  We 
found  bottom  over  the  whole  bay;  and  an- 
chored four  leagues  from  the  land,  in  sixty 
fathoms,  soft  muddy  ground ;  but  there  is  a 
very  heavy  sea,  and  it  is  only  an  anchorage  fit 
for  a  few  hours,  in  waiting  for  day,  or  the 
clearing  up  of  the  fog.  At  full  and  change  of 
the  moon  it  is  high  water  at  half  past  one 
o'clock  ;  the  tide  rises  seven  feet,  and  as  this 
bay  is  very  open,  the  current  in  it  is  nearly 
imperceptible ;  I  never  saw  it  run  more  than 
half  a  knot.  It  is  impossible  to  conceive  the 
number  of  whales  with  which  we  were  sur- 
rounded, or  their  familiarity  ;  they  every  half 
minute  spouted  within  half  a  pistol-shot  of  our 
ships,  and  made  a  prodigious  stench  in  the  air. 
We  were  ignorant  of  this  property  in  whales, 
but  were  informed  by  the  inhabitants,  that  the 
water  which  they  flung  out,  and  which  they 
scattered  to  a  great  distance,  was  impregnated 
with  that  offensive  smell ;  this  phenomenon  to 
us  would  probably  have  been  none  at  all  to 
the  fisherman  of  Greenland  or  Nantucket. 

The  coasts  of  Monterey  Bay  are  almost 
continually  enveloped  in  fogs,  which  cause 
great  diTiculty  in  the  approach  to  them.  But 
for  this  circumstance  there  would  be  few  more 


easy  to  land  upon  ;  there  is  not  any  rock  con- 
cealed under  water  that  extends  a  cable's 
length  from  the  shore,  and  if  the  fog  be  too 
thick,  there  is  the  resource  of  coming  to  an 
anchor,  and  there  waiting  for  a  clear,  which 
will  enable  you  to  get  a  good  sight  of  the 
Spanish  settlements  situate  in  the  angle  formed 
by  the  south  and  east  coasts. 

The  sea  was  covered  with  pelicans.  These 
birds,  it  seems,  never  go  farther  than  five  or 
six  leagues  from  the  land,  and  navigators,  who 
shall  hereatcer  meet  with  them  during  a  fog, 
may  rest  assured  that  they  are  within  that  dis- 
tance of  it.  The  first  time  we  saw  any  of 
them  was  in  Monterey  Bay,  and  I  have  since 
learned,  that  they  are  very  common  over  the 
whole  coast  of  California ;  the  Spaniards  call 
them  alkatrw.—\o\.  ii.  p.  194—196. 

Before  the  Spanish  settlements,  the  Indians 
of  California  cultivated  nothing  but  maize,  and 
almost  entirely  lived  by  fishing  and  hunting. 
There  is  not  any  country  in  the  world  which 
more  abounds  in  fish  and  game  of  every  de- 
scription :  hares,  rabbits,  and  stags  are  very 
common  there;  seals  and  otters  are  also  found 
there  in  prodigious  numbers ;  but  to  the  north- 
ward, and  during  the  winter,  they  kill  a  very 
great  number  of  bears,  foxes,  wolves,  and  wild 
cats.  The  thickets  and  plains  abound  with 
small  gray,  tufted  partridges,  which  like  those 
in  Europe  live  in  society,  but  in  large  compa- 
nies of  three  or  four  hundred ;  they  are  fat  and 
extremely  well  flavoured.  The  trees  serve  as 
habitations  to  the  most  delightful  birds  ;  our 
ornithologists  stuffed  a  great  variety  of  spar- 
rows, titmice,  speckled  wood-peckers,  and 
tropic  birds.  Among  the  birds  of  prey  are 
found  the  white-headed  eagle,  the  great  and 
small  falcon,  the  goss-hawk,  the  sparrow- 
hawk,  the  black  vulture,  the  large  owl,  and 
the  raven.  On  the  ponds  and  sea-shore  are 
seen  the  wild  duck,  the  gr^  and  white  peli- 
can with  yellow  tufts,  difllerent  species  of 
gulls,  cormorants,  curlews,  ring-plovers,  small 
sea  water-hens,  and  herons.  We  also  killed 
and  stuffed  a  bee-eater,  which,  according  to 
most  ornithologists,  is  peculiar  to  the  old  con- 
tinent. 

This  land  possesses  also  an  inexpressible 
fertility ;  farinaceous  roots  and  seeds  of  all 
kinds  abundantly  prosper  there;  we  enriched 
the  missionaries'  and  governor's  garden  with 

31 


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MONTEREY  AND  VICINITY. 


i  ft4^ 


different  grains  and  seeds  which  we  brought 
from  Paris ;  they  were  in  a  high  stiite  of  pre- 
servation, and  will  procure  them  new  enjoy- 
ments. 

The  crops  of  maize,  barley,  and  corn,  and 
pease,  cannot  bo  equalled  but  by  those  of 
Chili ;  our  European  cultivators  Can  have  no 
conception  of  a  similar  fertility ;  the  medium 
produce  of  corn  is  from  seventy  to  eighty  for 
one;  the  extremes  sixty  and  a  hundred.  Fruit 
trees  are  still  very  rare  there,  but  the  climate 
is  extremely  suitable  to  them ;  it  differs  a  little 
from  that  of  our  southern  French  provinces, 
at  least  the  cold  is  never  so  piercing  tiiero  ;  but 
the  heats  of  the  summer  are  tliere  much  more 
moderate,  owing  to  the  continual  fogs  which 
reign  in  these  countries,  and  which  procure 
for  the  land  a  humidity  very  favourable  to 
vegetation. 

The  forest  trees  are  the  stone-pine,  cyprus, 
evergreen  oak,  and  occidental  plane  tree ;  there 
is  no  underwood,  and  a  verdant  carpet,  over 
which  it  is  very  agreeable  to  walk,  covers  the 
ground.  There  are  also  vast  savannas, 
abounding  with  all  sorts  of  game.  The  land, 
though  very  well  adapted  to  vegetation,  is 
light  and  sar^dy,  and  is  indebted,  I  believe, 
for  its  fertility,  to  the  humidity  of  the  air,  for 
it  is  very  indifferently  watered.  The  nearest 
running  stream  to  the  presidency  is  two  leagues 
distant;  this  rivulet,  which  runs  near  to  the 
mission  of  Saint  Charles,  is  called  by  the  old 
navigators  Carmel  River.  The  too  great  dis- 
tance from  our  ships  prevented  us  from  water- 
ing tiiere;  we  drew  water  from  pools  behind 
the  fort,  where  its  quality  was  very  indifferent, 
scarcely  dissolving  soap.  The  river  Carmel, 
which  affords  an  agreeable  and  wholesome 
drink  to  the  missionaries  and  their  Indians, 
might  with  a  very  little  labour  water  their  gar- 
dens also.— P.  202—204. 

Our  botanists,  on  their  part,  lost  not  a  mo- 
ment towards  increasing  the  collection  of 
plants,  but  the  season  was  very  unfavourable, 


the  summer's  heat  had  entirely  dried  them  up, 
and  their  seeds  were  scattered  over  the  earth. 
Those  which  M.  Collignon,  our  gardener, 
could  recollect,  were  the  common  wormwood, 
the  sea  wormwood,  southernwood,  mngwort, 
the  Mexican  tea,  the  golden  rod  of  Canada, 
the  Italian  starwort,  milfoil,  deadly  night- 
siiade,  spurry,  and  water-mint.  The  gardens 
of  the  jjovernor  and  the  mission  were  filled 
with  an  infinite  number  of  pot-herbs,  which 
were  galiicred  for  us,  and  our  ships'  companies 
had  not  in  any  country  met  with  so  great  a 
quantity  of  pulse. 

Our  mineralogists  were  not  less  zealous 
than  the  botanists,  but  they  were  still  less  for- 
tunate ;  they  met  upon  the  mountains,  in  ra- 
vines, and  ont  the  sea-shore,  only  a  light  and 
argillaceous  stone,  very  easily  decomposed, 
and  which  is  a  species  of  marl ;  they  also 
found  blocks  of  granite,  the  veins  of  which 
concealed  crystallized  feldspar,  some  rounded 
fragments  of  porphyry  and  jasper,  but  no  trace 
of  metal.  Shells  are  not  more  abundant  there, 
with  the  exception  of  superb  haliotes ;  they 
are  even  nine  inches  in  length  by  four  in 
breadth  ;  all  the  rest  are  not  worth  the  trouble 
it  would  take  to  collect  them.— P.  233—334. 

The  land  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Monterey, 
though  dry,  appears  capable  of  being  cnlti- 
vatea  to  great  advantage,  of  which  we  had 
proofs  in  the  goodness  and  abundance  of  Eu- 
ropean vegetables  which  are  raised  there. 
Butchers'  meat  is  also  of  an  excellent  quality. 
It  is  therefore  certain  that  from  the  convenience 
of  the  harbour,  if  this  settlement  should  ever 
become  flourishing,  it  would  prove  as  good  a 
place  of  refreshment  as  any  in  the  world  for 
European  vessels  ;  but  it  will  bo  time  enough 
to  enter  upon  political  speculations  with  regard 
to  the  harbours,  when  the  Europeans  esta- 
blished on  the  north-east  of  this  continent  shall 
have  extended  their  settlements  to  the  north- 
west coast ;  an  event  that  is  not  likely  to  be 
very  soon  accomplished.— Vol.  iii.  p.  267. 


Extract  from  the  Navigantium  BihUotheca,  by  Harris,     London,  1744.     2  voU.  folio. 


'4 


hi  i 


Speaking  of  Sir  Francis  Drake's  discovery 
of  New  Albion,  he  says : — "The  discovery,  as  I 
conceive,  consisted  chiefly  in  his  marching  up 
into  the  country,  which  before  that  time,  it  is 
probable,  the  Spaniards  had  never  done ;  and 
with  respect  to  our  title  to  the  country,  I  con- 
ceive it  to  arise  from  the  good-will  and  volun- 
tary submission  of  the  people,  facts  as  well 
proved  as  in  the  nature  of  things  we  can  ex- 
pect, and  which  certainly  give  us  as  good  (if  not 
abetter)  claim  to  New  Albion,  as  the  Spaniards 
can  show  for  any  part  of  their  possessions. 

"The  country  too,  if  we  might  depend  upon 
what  Sir  Francis  Drake,  or  his  chaplain,  says, 
may  appear  worth  the  seeking  and  keeping, 
since  they  assert  that  the  land  is  so  rich  in 
GOLD  and  SILVER,  that  upon  the  slightest 


turning  it  up  with  a  spade  or  pick-axe,  those 
rich  metals  plainly  appear  mixed  with  the 
mould.  It  may  be  objected  that  this  looks  a 
little  fabulous ;  but  to  this  two  satisfactory  an- 
swers may  be  given ;  the  first  is,  that  later  dis- 
coveries on  the  same  coast  confirm  the  truth 
of  it,  which,  for  any  thing  I  can  see,  ought  to 
put  the  fact  out  of  the  question ;  but  if  any 
doubts  should  remain,  my  second  answer  will 
overturn  these.  For  I  say  next,  that  the  coun- 
try of  New  Mexico  lies  directly  bcnind  New 
Albion,  on  the  other  side  of  a  narrow  bay,  and 
in  that  country  are  the  mines  of  Santa  Fe, 
which  are  allowed  to  be  the  richest  silver 
mines  of  North  America :  here  then  is  a  valu- 
able country,  to  which  we  have  a  very  fair 
title — Vol.  ii.  p.  179. 


I  them  up, 
the  earth. 
prJener, 

ormwood, 
mniTWort, 
f  Cannda, 
lly   night- 

0  gardens 
vere  filled 
bs,  which 
companit'S 
30  great  a 

iR  zealous 

II  less  for- 
ms, in  ra- 

lijrht  and 

cornposed, 

they  also 

1  of  which 
16  rounded 
ut  no  trace 
dant  there, 
otes ;  they 
by  four  in 
the  trouble 
233—234. 

Monterey, 
eing  culti- 
;h  we  had 
nee  of  Bu- 
sed there, 
^nt  quality, 
onvenienoe 
hould  ever 
as  good  a 
!  world  for 
me  enough 
vith  regard 
leans  esta- 
inent  shall 
the  north- 
iely  to  be 
267. 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


ilio. 


Ext r'icl:t  from  '^VdiiOfiiH  and  Tnnwh  in  Vnn'oun  P<irh  nf  the  Wurlil,  during  the  Yi'nrn  180.1,  1804. 
](<(),'),  IHOli,  and  180".  Dfi  (.1.  11.  Vnn  Liuvindnrff,  Autic  Counsellor  to  Jli.t  Itfajesti/  the  Emperor 
f]f  L'lmniii,  CiinKiil-(lrnfi-nl  ill  the  IJriizih,  Kni.'/ht  of  the  Order  of  St,  Anne,  and  Memher  of  Various 
Ardilemie.i  and  Learned  Societies.      Ciirlisli,  Pa.  •'  Printed  hi/  George  Philips,  1817." 


TiirsE  iniy)ortnnt  matters  ronchidod,  we 
wnrp  fondiii'tcd  to  the  kitclirn  giirdin,  which 
did  not  iinswtr  my  rxpectntinns.  There  was 
nothing  in  it,  hut  some  sorts  (if  pulse  and  culi- 
nary vciri'tihles,  with  a  few  stunted  fruit- 
trees,  wliieh  scarcely  bore  any  fruit,  and  most 
of  the  beds  were  overgrown  with  weeds.  The 
northwest  winds,  wliicdi  prevail  so  much  on 
this  coast;  and  the  dry  sandy  nature  of  the 
soil,  are  iusurmountable  obstacles  to  horticul- 
ture. The  only  things  that  grow  well  in  the 
garden  are  asparagus,  cabbages,  several  sorts 
of  salad,  onions, and  potatoes.  In  some  fields, 
tolerably  sheltered  from  the  wind,  pease,  beans, 
Turkish  corn,  and  other  pulse  are  cultivated, 
and  thrive  pretty  well.  Corn  is  here  less  pro- 
ductive than  in  some  other  parts  of  New  Cali- 
fornia; notwithstanding  this,  the  Spanish 
government  thought  it  expedient  to  establish 
a  mission  in  the  neighbourhood  of  so  excellent 
a  harbour  as  that  of  St.  Francisco,  with  a  pre- 
sidency for  its  protection.  It  is  certainly 
justified,  since  both  establishments  are  in  a 
flourishing  condition,  principally  from  the 
grefit  number  of  cattle  they  are  enabled  to 
breed.— Pp.  43G,  437. 

We  often  amused  ourselves  with  shooting 
the  crested  partridges  and  the  rabbits  which 
abound  upon  the  sand-hills  near  the  shore. 
One  day  wo  went,  accompanied  by  twelve 
people,  and  conducted  by  thirty  or  forty  In- 
dians, to  catch  hares  and  rabbits  by  a  sort  of 
snaring,  when,  in  three  hours,  without  firing 
a  shot,  we  had  taken  seventy-five,  and  most  of 
them  alive.  We  sought  in  vain  several  times 
for  lions,  tigers,  and  bears  ;  of  the  latter  there 
had  been  formerly  a  great  abundance,  but  they 
were  now  become  much  more  rare.  On  the 
northern  shore  of  the  hay  the  roe  abounds,  and 
the  chase  of  it  is  very  amusing  and  produc- 
tive. In  a  number  of  aquatic  excursions,  I 
found  most  of  the  birds  with  which  I  had  he- 
come  fumiliar  at  Sitcha,  as  pelicans,  guilli- 
rnots,  ducks,  particularly  the  aruu  perspicillata, 
and  the  anas  nigra,  sea-pies,  and  others. 
There  were  also  seals  of  various  sorts,  and 
above  all  things,  the  valuable  sea-otter  was 
swimming  in  numbers  about  the  bay,  nearly 
unheeded.  — P.  453. 

Whales  are  very  often  cast  on  shore  in  these 
parts,  particularly  in  the  bay  of  Monterey. 
Sea-dogs  and  sea-otters  are  taken  in  nets, 
though  in  very  small  numbers.  The  American 
lion,  felis^  cuncghr,  the  American  tiger,  felia 


nncu,  stags,  roes,  wolves,  foxes,  hears,  and 

f>ole-cats,  viverra  ptiloriw,  are  very  common 
lere ;  the  latter  is  called  by  the  Spaniards, 
Horillo.  The  urine  which  tliis  animal  spurts 
from  him  to  defend  liimsolf  against  his  ene- 
mies, exceeds  in  stench  every  thing  that  can 
be  conceived;  the  missionaries  told  me  that  in 
the  night  it  is  exceeding  phosphoric,  and  if  put 
into  a  glass  retains  the  phosphoric  appearance 
for  a  very  long  time. 

Among  the  feathered  species,  I  observed  the 
vtillus  aura.  The  feet  of  this  bird  are  very 
different  from  those  of  any  other ;  the  claws 
are  thin  and  small,  and  the  three  foremost  are 
united  by  a  sort  of  half  web,  so  that  to  judge 
by  the  feet,  it  seems  to  belong  to  the  class  of 
marsh-birds,  but  according  to  the  bill,  it  should 
belong  to  birds  of  prey.  I  was  told  that  a 
soup  made  of  the  flesh  of  this  bird  is  extremely 
wholesome,  and  that  by  taking  it  freely,  all 
diseases  of  the  body  have  a  tendency  to  throw 
themselves  out  upon  the  skin.  Perhaps  the 
flesh  itself  has  rather  a  propensity  to  creatin{|^ 
eruptions  of  the  skin,  as  it  is  well  known  that 
in  some  persons  strawberries  will  have  that 
effect,  though  others  eat  them  in  abundance 
without  an^  effect  whatever.  These  vultures 
are  gregarious ;  they  are  slow  of  flight,  and 
feed  upon  carrion,  which,  in  company  with 
the  ravens,  with  whom  they  live  upon  very 
friendly  terms,  they  devour  in  great  quan- 
tities. 

The  oriohis  phncnicua  flies  about  the  houses 
here  like  sparrows  in  Europe.  The  oriolua 
icterus,  nlanda  cnlandra,  pictis  auraltis,  tetrix 
cristalus,  irochilus  mosquiltis,  and  others  of  this 
species,  are  also  very  abundant.  Of  the  coli- 
bris  there  are  a  great  number  in  summer,  but 
not  one  is  to  be  seen  in  winter.  It  is  univer- 
sally said  here  that  they  remain  in  a  torpid 
state  all  the  winter,  whence  they  have  the 
name  of  saxaro  resuscilado,  resurrection  birds. 
Of  water  and  marsh  birds  there  are  a  great 
variety,  particularly  of  the  arcdea,  tringa,  scolo- 
pax,  peiicanus,  lartis,  colymbua,  mer^as,  and 
anus  species.  In  winter,  the  number  of  wild 
geese  in  the  boggy  plain  to  the  southeast  of 
the  bay  is  so  great  that  they  are  a  positive 
nuisance — they  do  great  injury  to  the  young 
corn,  which  stands  the  winter,  and  are  so  im- 
pudent that  they  are  scarcely  to  be  frightened 
away  by  firing  among  them.  Itaya  aquila, 
and  a  species  of  acipcnser,  were  the  only  fish 
that  fell  under  my  observation.— -P.  480— 4Si. 


Hi 


I 


NEW  CALIFORNIA. 


V-f 


'\ 


I 


i      ^i 


-^t 


,1 


Extraeli  from  "The  ClfPfiraphifal  and  IliMnrhil  Diclionnry  nf  Amrrica.  and  the  lIV.v/  Tndirt,  rnn- 
Ittinimi  an  Kntire  Transhition  nf  the  f^panhh  Work  of  Cnlmtd  Don  Antonio  l)e  Alrn/o,  Captain  of 
th«  Itoiial  Spanixh  (iiianh,  timl  Memlic"  of  the  Royal  Acadm;/  of  Ilinlor!/.  Jiy  0.  A.  Thompson, 
Enq.    ^ London,  1812." 


The  part  of  v'm  roast  of  tlie  proat  ocean 
which  extends  from  the  Istlimiis  of  old  Cali- 
fornia, or  from  tlii>  Hay  of  Todos  los  Santos 
(south  from  the  port  of  San  Diejro)  to  Capo 
Mendocino,  hears  on  the  Spanish  maps  the 
name  of  New  California.  No  villajre  or  farm 
is  to  be  found  north  of  the  port  of  St.  Francis, 
which  is  more  than  78  leagues  distant  from 
Cape  Mendocino.  The  province  of  New  Cali- 
fornia in  its  present  stato  is  only  197  leagues 
in  length,  and  from  ninn  to  ten  in  breadth. 
The  city  of  Mexico  is  the  t.anio  distance  in  a 
straight  lino  from  Philadelphia  as  from  Mon- 
terey, which  is  the  chief  place  of  the  missions 
of  New  California,  and  of  which  the  latitude 
is  the  same  within  a  few  minutes  with  that  of 
Cadiz.  At  the  lime  of  the  expedition  of  M. 
Galvez,  military  detachments  came  from  IjO- 
reto  to  the  port  of  San  Diet;o.  The  letter-post 
still  goes  from  this  port  aion<r  the  northwest 
coast  to  San  Francisco.  This  last  establish- 
ment, the  most  north  of  all  the  Spanish  pos- 
sessions of  the  new  continent,  is  almost  under 
the  same  parallel  wilh  the  small  town  of  Taos, 
in  New  Mexico.  It  is  not  more  than  .100 
leagues  distant  from  it;  and  thouffh  Father Es- 
calante,  in  his  apostolical  excursions  in  1777, 
advanced  along  the  west  bank  of  the  river 
Zaguanos  towards  the  mountains  De  los  Cua- 
caros,  no  traveller  has  yet  come  from  New 
Mexico  to  the  coast  of  New  California. 

From  the  example  of  the  English   maps, 
several  geographers  give  the  name  of  New  Al- 
bion to  New  California.    This  denomination 
is  founded  on  the  inaccurate  opinion  of  the 
nairigator  Drake,  who  first  discovered,  in  1578, 
the  northwest  coast  of  America,  between  the 
38°  and  the  48°  of  latitude.     The  celebrated 
voyage  of  Sebastian  Viscaino  is  no  doubt  24 
years  posterior  to  the  discoveries  of  Francis 
Drake ;  but  Knox  and  other  historians  seem  to 
forget  that  Cabrillo  had  already  examined,  in 
1542,  the  coast  of  New  California  to  the  paral- 
lel of  43",  the  boundary  of  his  navigations,  as 
we  may  see  from  a  comparison  of  the  old  ob- 
servatii.n''  of  latitude  with  those  taken  in  our 
own  days.    Although  the  whole  shore  of  New 
California  was  carefully  examined    by  the 
great  navigator,   Sebastian   Viscaino,   (as  is 
proved  by  plans  drawn  up  by  himself  in  1G02,) 
this  fine  country  was  only,  however,  occupied 
by  the  Spaniards  167  years  afterwards.    The 
court  of  Madrid,  dreading  lest  the  other  mari- 
time powers  of  Europe  should  form  settle- 
34 


mentfl  on  the  northwest  coast  of  America, 
which  might  become  dangerous  to  the  Spanish 
colonies,  gave  orders  to  the  Chevalier  de 
Croix,  the  viceroy,  and  the  Visitador  Calvez, 
to  found  missions  and  presidins  in  the  ports  of 
San  Diego  and  Monterey.  For  this  purpose 
two  packut-bonts  set  out  from  the  port  of  San 
Bias,  and  anchored  at  Snn  Diegn  in  the  month 
of  April,  1703. 

The  soil  of  New  California  is  as  well  wa- 
tered and  fertile  as  tliat  of  Old  California  is 
arid  and  stony.  It  is  one  of  the  most  pic- 
turesque countries  which  can  bo  seen.  The 
climate  is  much  more  mild  there  than  in  the 
same  latitude  on  the  east  coast  of  the  new  con- 
tinent. The  sky  is  ibggy,  but  the  frequent 
fogs,  which  render  it  difficult  to  land  on  the 
coast  of  Monterey  and  San  Francisco,  give 
vigour  to  vegetation,  and  fertilize  the  soil, 
which  is  covered  with  a  black  and  spongy 
earth.  In  the  eighteen  missions  which  now 
exist  in  New  California,  wheat,  maize,  and 
haricots  (frisoles)  are  cultivated  in  abundance. 
Barley, beans,  lentils, if«r6nn20.t,  grow  very  well 
in  the  fields  in  the  greatest  part  of  the  pro- 
vince. Good  wine  is  made  in  the  villages  of 
San  Diego,  San  Juan  Capistratio,  San  Gabriel, 
San  Buenaventura,  Santa  Barbara,  San  Luis 
Obispo,  Santa  Clara,and  San  Jose,  and  all  along 
the  coast,  south  and  north  of  Monterey,  to  be- 
yond the  37°  of  latitude.  The  European  olive  is 
puccessfully  cultivated  near  the  canal  of  Santa 
Barbara,  especially  near  San  Diego,  where  an 
oil  is  made  as  good  as  that  of  the  valley  of 
Mexico,  or  the  oils  of  Andalusia. 

The  population  of  New  California,  includ- 
ing only  the  Indians  attached  to  the  soil  who 
have  begun  to  cultivate  their  fields,  was. 

In  1790        -        -  7,748  souls. 

In  1801    .        .        .     13,668 
And  in  1802  -        15,562 

Thus  the  numbfr  of  inhabitants  has  doubled 
in  12  years.  Sinco  the  foundation  of  these 
missions,  or  between  1769  and  1802,  there 
were  in  all,  according  to  the  parish  registers, 
33,717  baptisms,  8009  marriages,  and  16,984 
deaths.  We  must  not  attempt  to  deduce  from 
these  data  the  proportion  between  the  births 
and  deaths,  because  in  the  number  of  baptisms 
the  adult  Indians  {los  neoJUon)  are  confounded 
with  the  children.  The  estimation  of  the  pro- 
duce of  the  soil,  or  the  harvests,  furnishes  also 
the  most  convincing  proofs  of  the  increase  of 
industry  and  prosperity  of  New  California. 


^ 


NEW  CALIFORNIA. 


35 


In  ft  to,  con- 
,  Captain  of 
,  Thompson, 


if  AmericB, 
the  Sjmnioli 
lievalier  de 
dor  (Jalve?,, 
the  ports  of 
his  purpose 
port  nf  San 
in  the  month 

as  well  wa- 
I!allfornia  is 
le  most  pic- 
seen.    The 
I  than  in  the 
the  new  con- 
the  frequent 
land  on  the 
incisco,  give 
ize  the  soil, 
and  spongy 
}  which  now 
,  maize,  and 
n  abundance, 
row  very  well 
of  the  pro- 
le  villages  of 
San  Gabriel, 
ira,  San  Luis 
.and  all  along 
ntercy.  to  be- 
opean  olive  i* 
anal  of  Santa 
?go,  where  an 
the  valley  of 

ornia,  includ- 
the  soil  who 
ds,  was, 
r,748  souls. 
},668 
5,562 

has  doubled 
ation  of  these 

1802,  there 
rish  registers, 
)8,and  16,981 
;o  deduce  from 
Ben  the  births 
ler  of  baptisms 
ire  confounded 
ionofthepro- 
,  furnishes  also 
the  increase  of 
Bw  California. 


■ 


In  1791,  according  to  the  tables  published 
by  M.  tialiano,  the  Indians  sowed  in  the  whole 
province  only  871  bushels  of  wheat,  which 
yiildeii  n  harvest  of  lf>,107  buslu'ls,  Tlic 
cultivation  diMibhid  in  1802;  for  the  ([uaiitily 
of  wheat  sfiwn  was  2089  bushels,  and  the  har- 
vest ;<.'!, ."iTti  husht'ls. 

Tlif  I'ojlowing  table  contains  the  nuinbnrof 
live  stock  in  1H02. 

Uxin.  MiiM'p.  llfiKH.       HiTHJ.    Miller. 

()7,7S2  107,172  1,010  2.IH7  877 
In  1791,  there  were  only  2l,!».'jS  hcnil  of 
black  cattle  {i^nmiiht  mat/or)  in  tlio  whole  of 
the  Indian  villages.  The  north  part  of  Cali- 
fornia is  inhabited  by  the  two  nations  of  the 
Huinsen  and  Kscelen.  They  sprak  languages 
totally  different  from  one  another,  and  they 
form  the  ponnlation  of  the  prrsidio  and  the 
village  of  Monterey.  In  the  hay  of  San 
Francisco,  the  languages  of  the  different  tribe.s 
of  the  Mitalaim,  Salsen,  and  Quirotcs,  are 
derived  from  a  common  root.  Father  Lasuen 
observed,  that  on  an  extent  of  180  leagues  of 
the  coast  of  California,  from  San  Diego  to  San 
Francisco,  no  fewer  than  seventeen  languages 
are  spoken,  which  can  hardly  be  considered  as 
dialects  of  a  small  number  of  mother  lan- 
guages. The  population  of  New  California 
would  have  augmented  still  more  rapidly  if 
the  laws  by  which  the  Spanish  prenidios  have 
been  governed  for  ages  were  not  directly  op- 
posite to  the  true  interests  of  both  mother 
country  and  colonies.  By  these  laws  the  sol- 
diers sUttioned  at  Monterey  are  not  permitted 
to  live  out  of  their  barracKs  and  to  settle  as 
colonists.  The  Indians  who  inhabit  the  vil- 
lages of  New  California  have  been  for  some 
years  employed  in  spinning  coarse  woollen 
stuffs,  called /rfSrtf/fls  ,•  but  their  principal  occu- 
pation, of  which  the  produce  might  become  a 
very  considerable  branch  in  commerce,  is  the 
dressing  of  stag-skins.  In  the  cordillera  of 
small  elevation  which  runs  along  the  coast,  as 
well  as  in  the  neighbouring snonnnas,  there  are 
neither  buffaloes  nor  elks ;  and  on  the  west  of 
the  mountains,  which  arc  covered  with  snow 
in  the  month  of  November,  the  berrendo»,  with 
small  chamois  horns,  feed  by  themselves. 
But  all  the  forest  and  all  the  plains  covered 
with  gritminse,  are  filled  with  flocks  of  stags 
of  a  most  gigantic  size,  the  horns  of  which 
are  round  and  extremely  large.  Forty  or  fifty 
of  them  are  frequently  seen  at  a  time :  they 
are  of  a  brown  colour,  smooth,  and  without 
spot.  Their  horns,  which  are  not  palmafed, 
are  nearly  15  decimeters  (4i  feet)  in  length. 
It  is  affirmed  by  every  traveller,  that  t.iis  groat 
stag  of  New  California  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  animals  of  Spanish  America.  It 
probably  differs  from  the  tvewaktsh  of  M. 
Hearne,  or  the  elk  of  the  United  States,  of 
which  naturalists  have  very  improperly  made 
the  two  species  of  Cervus  Canadenns  and 
cervrnt  stronixyhceros.  The  horns  of  these 
stags  are  said  to  be  nine  feet  long,  and  the 
animal,  when  running,  throws  np  its  head,  to 
rest  them  on  its  back. 


The  Spanish  and  Russian  establishments 
being  hitherto  the  only  om  s  which  exist  on 
the  north-west  coast  of  America,  it  may  not  be 
ii«ii'lt'KS  here  to  enumerate  all  the  niisHions  of 
New  ('alilorriia  which  havi'  liceri  founded  up 
to  1K03.  'I'his  (It'tiiil  is  MKirn  ititiiresting  at 
this  prriod  than  ever,  as  tlw-  United  States 
have  shown  a  dpsiru  to  advance  towards  the 
west,  towards  the  shores  of  the  great  ocean, 
whioli,  op[)()hit(>  to  (Miiim,  abounds  with  beau- 
til'til  furs  of  s(';>-( liters, 

Tiie  missions  of  !Vew  ('alilornia  run  from 
soutli  to  nurtli  in  the  order  here  indicated; 

S;iii  Diego,  a  village  fonnded  in  17()9,  15 
leagues  distant  from  the  most  north  mission 
of  Old  California.  Population  in  1802, 
I  .-ifiO. 

Sin  Luis  Rey  de  Francia,  a  village  founded 
in  1798,  GOO. 

San  Juan  Capistrano,  a  village  founded  in 
1776,  1000. 

San  Gabriel,  a  village  founded  in  1771, 
1050. 

San  Fernando,  a  village  founded  in  1797, 
600. 

San  Buenaventun,  a  village  founded  irt 
1782,  950. 

Santa  Barbara,  a  village  founded  in  1786, 
1100. 

La  Purissima  Concepcion,  a  village  founded 
in  1781,  1000. 

San  Luis  Obispo,  a  village  founded  in  1772, 
TOO. 

San  Miguel,  a  village  founded  in  1797, 
600. 

Roledad,  a  village  founded  in  1791,  570. 

San  Antonio  de  Padua,  a  village  founded  in 
1771,  1050. 

San  Carlos  de  Monterey,  capital  of  Ne^ 
California,  founded  in  1770. 

San  Juan  Bautista,  a  village  founded  in 
1797,  960. 

Santa  Cruz,  a  village  founded  in  1794,440. 

Santa  Clara,  a  village  founded  in  1777, 
1300. 

San  Jose,  a  village  founded  in  1797,  630. 

San  Francisco,  a  village  founded  in  1776, 
with  a  fine  port.  This  port  is  frequently  con- 
founded by  geographers  with  the  port  of 
Drake,  further  north,  under  the  38°  Iv  of  lati- 
tude, called  by  the  Spaniards  the  Puerto  de 
Bodega.     Population  of  San  Francisco,  820. 

The  number  of  whites,  muntees^  and  mu- 
lattoes,  who  live  in  New  California,  either  in 
the  presidios,  or  in  the  service  of  the  monks 
of  St.  Francis,  may  be  about  1300  ;  for  in  the 
two  years  1801  and  1802,  there  were  in  the 
east  of  whites  and  mixed  blood  35  marriages, 
182  baptisms,  and  82  deaths.  It  is  only  on 
this  partof  the  population  that  the  government 
can  reckon  for  the  defence  of  the  coast,  in  case 
of  any  militaiy  attack  by  the  maritime  powers 
of  Europe.  The  population  of  the  intendancy 
of  New  California  was,  in  1803,  15,600.  The 
extent  of  surface  in  square  leagues,  2125;  the 
inhabitants  being  seven  to  each  league. — Pp. 
21G— 248. 


I 


\ 


-♦..  ..  •  ••,..• 


.-■ .,    .    '  . . '    •;,>   •  '  :"      '.  ,   .; "'■■A  'U  ■  .'..-■  '■   V" 


HASTINGS  ON  CALIFORNIA. 


H 


■M 


til   . 


Extracts  from  Lansford  IP.  Hastings'  Guide  to  Orejon  and  CaUfurnia.     Cincinnati,  1845. 

Having  ffiven  this  brief  description  of  the  |  to  that  extent.  Many  portions  of  this  river,  its 
mountains,  I  will  next  notice  the  various  ;  entire  extent,  will  be  found  to  be  imvigal.le  for 
rivers,  the  nioit  iniportiint  of  which  is  the  short  disUmces,  and  although  it  will  require  re- 
Colorado  of  the  west,  or  Hed  Hiver.  This  !  peated,  and  in  many  places,  extensive  porUiges, 
great  river  is  to  Cal-fornia  what  the  Colum- ,  yet  it  will  he  found  serviceable,  for  purposes 
bia  is  to  Oregon,  tlie  Mississippi  to  the  United  j  of  navigation,  in  all  the  dilTerent  porUons  of  Uie 
States,  or  the  Amazon  to  South  America 
rises  near  latitude  '13°  north,  its  head  waters 
interlocking  with  those  of  the  Platte ;  its 
general  course  is  about  south-soutii-west,  to  its 
etnboguing,  at  the  Gulf  of  California,  near 
latitude  32°  north.  Following  its  meanders, 
its  length  is  about  twelve  luindred  miles,  about 
two-thirds  of  which  distance  its  course  is  very 
serpentine,  and  much  interrupted  by  innume- 
rable rapids,  cascades,  and  deep  chasms  or 
channels.  Its  vast  torrents  of  water,  rushing 
and  lashing  over  the  former,  foaming  and  dash- 
ing through  the  latter,  make  the  very  welkin 
ring,  sending  their  misty  sjjray  in  volumes  to 
the  clouds.  As  might  be  expected,  these  re- 
peated interruptions  almost  entirely  destroy  its 
navigiition  forahouteiglit  hundred  miles.  The 
remainder  of  its  distance  is  much  less  inter- 
rupted, but  its  navigation  is  also  here  serious 


It '  country  through  which  it  passes.--l'.  7"J,  73. 
The  bays  and  harb^airs  next  claim  our  atten- 
tion, and  that  deserving  of  the  first  and  prin- 
cipal notice,  is  the  Bay  of  St.  Francisco,  which 
is  situated  at  latitude  38°  north,  and  extends 
about  forty  miles  into  the  interior,  in  a  direc- 
tion about  north-north-east  from  its  entrance. 
Its  waters  are  securely  confined  within  its  bed, 
by  an  iron-bound  coast,  whicli  is  generally 
composed  i.f  solid  basaltic  rock.  The  country 
adjacent  to  this  bay  is  a  very  broken  and 
hilly  region,  but  very  fertile,  producing  oat9, 
clover,  and  the  like,  with  much  profusion. 
The  entrance  of  this  bay,  from  the  Pacific,  is 
about  one  mile  wide,  upon  each  side  of  which 
is  a  high  ledge  of  basaltic  rock,  about  two 
hundred  tcet  above  the  surftice  of  the  water. 
rrom  llii'se  points,  on  eacii  side  of  the  en- 
traiK-e,  the  bay  gradually  expands,  to  eight  or 
ly'interrupted,with  the  exception  of  about  one  I  ten  miles  in  extent,  from  north  to  south,  and 
hundred  miles  from  itsmoulh,  which  are  with- j  almut  twelve  miles  from  east  to  west.  At  the 
out  interruption,  .I'ld  which  are  navigiiblc  for ,  extreme  eastern  portion  of  this  bay,  thus 
vessels   of  two  iin.idred   tons  burden.      The  i  formed,  its  hilly  and    rocky  banks  gradually 

f;reater  portion  of  tliis  river,  from  its  source, !  contract,  so  as  to  leave  a  space,  only  of  libout 
ies  through  a  very  broken,  mountainous  coun- j  two  miles,  betwoen  the  rocky,  hilly  shores, 
try,  breaking  through  lofty  mountains,  piiurirg  I  which  thus  terms  a  second  entrance  into  an- 
over  high  cliff's,  down  vast  perpendicular  cata-  i  other  bay,  of  greater  extent  than  that  just  de- 
racts,  and  into  deep  chasiTi  with  perpendicu- j  scrilied.  At  this  entrance,  the  high,  rolling, 
lar  basaltic  walls,  five  hundred  feet  in  height,  j  basaltic  banks  agiiin  gradually  diverge,  about 


The  latter  part  of  its  distance,  for  four  or  five 
hundred  miles,  is  through  alternate  rolling 
hills,  undulating  plains,  and  beautiful  valleys 
and  prairies.  All  the  dillVrent  tributaries  of 
the  northern  portion  of  this  river  water  an  ex- 
tremely mountainous,  sterile,  and  entirely 
worthless  region,   with  tlh    exception  of  the 


ien  miles,  when  they  again  contract,  leaving  a 
space  of  about  one  mile  between  them,  which 
is  about  eight  miles  froiM  the  entrance  last 
mentioned,  and  thus  anotiier  spacious  bay  is 
fonned.  A  third  and  more  extensive  bay  is 
formed  in  a  similar  manner,  the  eastern  (ex- 
tremity of  which  is  about  forty  miles  east- 


limited,  though  numerous  valleys,  which  are  '  ward  from  the  enn=t,  where  it  receives  the  Sa^ 


interspersed  among  the  mountains.     But  tlu 
various  tributaries  of  the  southern  portion  of 
this  river  water  many  extensive  plains,  heau- 
tif'.l  prairies,  and  fertile  valleys.     Its  triimta- 
ries  Iroiu  the  north,  in  tiie  southern  part,  inter- 
lock with  those  of  the  Sacramento,  and  they 
water  much  the  most  extensive  and  fertile  re- 
gions.   The  Colorado  and  its  tributaries  water 
mud;    of  the   northern  portion,   most  of  the 
southern,  and  all  the  eastern  jiortion  of  Unper 
California.    Tiie  tide  sets  u])  this  'iver  about 
one  hundred  ndh  s,  the  extent  to  which  it  is 
navigable,  and  m  ry  mueh  aids  its  navigation 
36 


cramento.  The  bay  last  alluded  to,  is  twelve 
miles  in  extent,  from  east  to  west,  ami  about 
fifiei  11  from  north  to  south,  and,  like  the  o>ers 
descrilicil,  it  alfords  thi>  most  extensive  and  s  > 
cureauehoragc\  From  this  description  of  the 
great  Day  of  St.  Fnmcisco,  it  is  seen,  that  in- 
stead of  one  bay,  there  arc  three  vastly  exten- 
sive bays,  which,  however,  are  al!  connected, 
forming  tin;  Bay  of  St.  Fniucisco.  There  are 
several  small  islands  in  tliis  bay,  the  la.M.'St 
of  which  is  situated  on  the  north  side  oi  the 
first  hay,  witiiin  full  view  of  the  entr  luc,  from 
t!ie  ocean.     It  is  about  five  miles  long,  and 


\1 


rv«<OT«n0pa«p 


■'•mi>immm''9fmr 


HASTINGS  ON  CALIFORNIA. 


37 


<,     >T 


iti,  1845. 

this  river,  its 
navinr;i!)Ie  lor 
ill  require  re- 
vive portages, 
for  purposes 
ortions  of  the 

im  oiiratfen- 
rst  and  prin- 
icisco,  which 
and  extends 
,  in  a  dircc- 
its  entrance, 
ithin  its  bed, 
is  generally 
The  country 
broken    and 
ducing  oats, 
h   profiisioH. 
le  Pacific,  is 
ide  of  which 
,  about  two 
of  the  water. 
!e  of  the  en- 
3,  to  eight  or 
.0  south,  and 
vest.     At  the 
is   bay,    thus 
ks  gradually 
mly  of  iibout 
hilly  shores, 
inco  into  an- 
tliat  just  de- 
high,  rolling, 
ivergo,  about 
;ict,  leaving  a 
them,  which 
entrance   last 
icioiis  bay  is 
ensive  bay  is 
e  eastern  cx- 
y  miles  cast- 
reives  the  Sa- 
to, is  twelve 
■it,  and  about 
ike  the  o>er8 
Misive  and  s  > 
ription  of  the 
seen,  that  in- 
vastly  exten- 
il!  connected. 
0,    Tiiero  are 
y,  the,  la.M.'St 
li  side  oi  the 
nUrino',  fron\ 
les  long,  anil 


three  in  width,  and  has  a  very  rough  and 
broken  surface,  >^hich  is  covered  here  and 
there  with  timber,  of  a  small  growth,  and  an 
abundance  of  vegetation.  It  is  admirably 
suited  to  the  purposes  of  grazing,  as  it  not 
only  produces  the  various  grasses,  and  oats 
and  clover,  in  great  profusion,  but  also  a  great 
abundance  of  good  fresh  water.  Large  herds 
<:f  fine  cattle  are  now  kept  u,;on  it,  by  a 
Spaniard,  who  resides  in  the  lower  part  of  the 
country. 

The  next  large  island  alluded  to,  is  located 
on  tlie  south  side  of  the  same  bay,  fronting 
the  town  of  Yerba  Buena.  It  i?  also  depas- 
tured, but  by  herds  of  wild  goats,  which  have 
been  placed  upon  it  by  a  foreigner  who  resides 
at  Yerba  Buena.  Besides  these  islands,  there 
are  several  others  in  this  bay,  which  appear  to 
be  composed  entirely  of  basaltic  rock,  and 
hence  produce  no  kind  of  vegetation,  but  are 
places  of  resort  for  the  innumerable  fowls  of 
prey,  which  abound  in  that  region.  One  of 
these  rocky  islands  is  situated  directly  in 
front  of  the  entrance,  from  the  ocean,  a  id  is 
about  one-fourth  of  a  mile  in  diameter.  The 
contiguity  of  this  island  to  the  entrance,  and 
its  immediate  opposition  to  that  point,  render 
it  very  important,  as  a  few  guns  planted  upon 
it,  and  well  in.iniicd,  would,  with  all  ease,  per- 
fectly command  the  entrance.  Ihit  facilities 
for  commanding  this  entrance  arc  not  wantintr, 
/or  a  few  guns  upon  either  side  o>"  it  would 
sink  a  whole  fleet  that  should  attempt  a  hos- 
tile ingrcssion.  Outside  of  this  bay,  also,  and 
within  a  few  miles  of  the  entnnce,  is  anoilier 
vast  rocky  island,  rearing  its  ancient  am!  ma- 
jestic head,  several  hundred  feet  above  the 
lashing  surf  and  roaring  billows  below,  as  if 
i!eslgncd  by  nature  to  point  out  the  entrance, 
inJo  that  great  bay  of  bays.  A  more  admirable 
and  .'dvantageous  position  for  a  light-house 
can  scarcely  be  CMiceived  of,  and  there  is  but 
little  doubt,  that  those  who  visit  St.  Fran- 
cisco, two  years  hence,  instead  of  seeing  a 
massive,darkrock,lookiugout  upon  the  mighty 
deep,  at  the  mouth  of  that  bay,  will  there 
behold  a  brilliant  luminary  of  the  ocean.  From 
what  has  already  been  said,  it  must  be  appa- 
rent to  all  that  there  are  few  bays,  if  any,  in 
any  part  of  the  world  which  surpass  this,  for 
security  of  harbour  and  extent  of  anchorage. 
It  has  been  well  said,  that  "in  tiiis  bay  all  the 
fleets  and  naviesof  the  whole  world  could  ride 
in  perfect  safety."  This  bay  alone  would  an- 
swer all  lhecomnierci;>l  jxirposesof  C'aiifipruia 
in  all  time  to  come.  'I'here  is  ample  water 
at  the  entnmce  for  vessels  of  the  largest  clas.s, 
whether  during  the  ehb  or  flow  of  the  tide, 
which  in  this  bay  rises  about  cightren  feet 
perpendicular.  All  things  being  considered, 
I  am  of  the  opinion  that  a  harbour  cannot  be 
found  equal  in  all  respects  to  that  of  tlie  Hay 
of  St.  Francisco.  It  is  of  the  greatc-i  impor- 
tance, not  only  to  California,  but  also  to  all 
commercial  governments  of  the  world  whose 
ships  of  war,  mercnant  ships,  or  whalers,  cruise 
in  the  Pacific,  as  it  affords  them  the  most  ex- 
tensive anchorage  and  secure  harbour,  which 
are  surrounded  by  one  of  the  most  fertile  coun- 


tries in  the  known  world,  where  all  necessary 
ship  supplies  may  be  obtained,  in  any  abun- 
dance, and  upon  the  most  favourable  terms. 

The  Bay  of  .Monterey  is  the  next  in  import- 
ance, but  its  chief  importance  is  derived  from 
its  central  and  otherwise  peculiarly  advan- 
tageous position,  and  not  from  its  extent  of 
anchorage  or  security  of  harbour.  It  is  situ- 
ated at  latitude  37°  north,  and  is  about  twenty 
miles  in  extent,  and  semicircular  in  form,  af- 
fording tolt>rably  extensive  anchorage  and  se- 
cure harbour  against  all  winds,  excepting 
those  from  the  west  and  north-east,  which 
drive  almost  directly  into  the  bay,  rendering 
the  harbour  very  insecure  as  against  those 
winds.  As  an  evidence  of  this  fact,  a  vessel 
was  stranded  there  a  few  years  since,  and  the 
wreck  now  lies  upon  the  beach,  within  a  few 
hundred  yards  of  the  ordinary  anchorage.  I 
was  informed  that  the  captiiin  of  this  vessel, 
finding  a  wreck  inevitable,  beaded  directly 
upon  the  beach,  under  full  sail,  which,  of 
jurse,  had  a  tendency  to  decide  the  matter  as 
to  a  wreck,  as  well  as  to  produce  some  rather 
unpleasant  concussions.  In  this  bay,  as  in 
St.  Francisco,  the  tide  rises  about  eighteen 
feet,  and  there  is  also  ample  water  at  the  en- 
trance of  this  bay,  as  at  that,  for  the  reception 
of  vessels  of  any  class,  either  during  the  ebb 
or  flow  of  the  tide.  The  entrance  is  also  very 
easily  commanded,  but  it  is  by  no  means  as 
advantageously  situated  in  that  respect  as  that 
of  the  Bay  of  St.  Francisco.  It  is  the  opinion, 
however,  of  many  that  the  entrance  of  this 
hay  can  be  asetfectually  fortified  as  that  of  any 
otiicr,  with  the  appropriate  expense.  The 
chief  imjiortance  attached  to  this  bay  is  de- 
rived from  the  fact  of  its  being  contiguous  to 
the  seat  of  government,  which  will  undoubt- 
edly be  the  case  until  there  shall  be  some  en- 
largement of  the  state,  either  upon  the  north 
or  the  south.  The  Bay  of  St.  Diego  is  also  a 
bay  of  very  considerable  extent,  which  is 
situated  near  latitude  33°  north,  affording  very 
commodious  and  safe  anchorage.  It  is  about 
twenty  miles  in  extent, from  its  entrance  toils 
extreme  eastern  portion,  and  it  aflTords  exten- 
sive anchorage  and  safe  harbour  against  all 
winds,  excepting  those  blowing  from  the 
south  and  the  south-west.  This  bay  is  also 
vastly  iuiportant,  from  its  local  position,  be- 
ing in  the  extreme  southern  portion  of  the 
country  ;  for  without  it,  all  that  part  of  the 
country  would  be  entirol}  exeluded  from  all 
commercial  a  '  ntages-  Besides  toe  princi- 
pal bays  here  described,  there  are  several 
others,  wb.ieh,  however,  are  of  much  less  im- 
portanc(s  though  periuijis  of  sufficient  import- 
ance to  re(|uire  a  brief  notice.  Of  these  there 
are  but  two  which  I  shall  notice,  the  one  of 
which  is  situated  in  the  extreme  northern,  and 
the  other  in  the  extreme  southern  portion  aftlie 
country  ;  the  former  is  called  Boaaga,  and  the 
latter  Colomdo.  Bodag;i  is  near  latitude  40° 
north,  and  is  about  twelve  miles  in  extent,  but 
the  entrance  is  rather  difl^icult,  and  the  anchor- 
'age  unsafe,  and  at  times  dangerous  in  the  ex- 
treme. This  bay,  however,  together  with  the 
harbour  formed  at  the  mouth  of  the  Klainet 
D 


fi 


■   *:•■ 


HASriNGS  ON  CALIFORNIA. 


\n 


River,  before  described,  will  afford  ample  com- 
iaercial  facilities  for  the  extreme  northern 
portion.  The  Colorado  is  situated  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Colorado  of  the  west,  near  lati- 
tude 32°  north ;  it  is  very  spacious,  affording 
extensive  and  secure  anchorage  for  ships  of 
any  class,  sheltering  them  perlectiy  against  all 
winds  excepting  those  which  blow  directly 
from  the  south.  This  gives  a  brief  view  of  the 
facilities  for  extensive  commerce  in  Upper 
California,  wliich  are  seldom  if  ever  sur- 
passed.—Pp.  78—80. 

The  soil  is  extremely  varied,  not  only  in 
the  two  sections,  but  also  in  the  different  por- 
tions of  each  section;  the  hills  and  mountains 
being  entirely  sterile,  and  valleys  and  plains 
extremely  fertile.  That  of  the  valleys  is  vastly 
rich  and  productive ;  so  much  so,  in  fact,  that  I 
think  1  venture  nothing  when  I  say  that  it  is ! 
not  only  unsurpassed,  but  that  it  is  not  even 
equalled.  The  deep,  rich,  alluvial  soil  of 
the  Nile,  in  figypt,  does  not  afford  a  parallel. 
Remarks  like  these,  I  am  aware,  are  apt  to  be 
considered  ac  mere  gratuitous  assumptions; 
but  to  ascertain  how  lar  they  are  sustained  by 
fact,  the  reader  is  referred  to  the  sequel,  espe- 
cially that  part  of  it  which  treats  of  the  pro- 
ductions, which  it  is  believed  will  not  only 
convince  him  of  their  truth,  but  may  perhaps 
induce  him  to  indulge  in  assumptions  a-id 
speculations  even  more  enlarged.  The  soil  of 
tiie  various  valleys  of  the  western  section  va- 
ries from  a  rich  alluviul  to  a  deep  black  vege- 
table loam,  upon  strata  of  s:ind,  gravel,  clay 
or  trap  rock.  That  of  the  pi.iins  is  i)riiicipally 
a  deep  brown  vcgtUable  loam,  or  decomposed 
basalt,  with  a  substratum  of  stiff  cbiy  or  gravel 
and  sand.  And  tliat  of  the  hills  is  chielly  a 
brown  sandy  loam,  or  a  loose  gravelly  soil. 
The  mountains  and  most  of  the  more  elevated 
hills  are  generally  entirely  barren,  and  consist 
principally  of  primitive  rocks,  such  as  talcose 
shte,  and  other  argillaceous  stone,  with  horn- 
bi^.id  and  granite.  The  less  elevated  hills 
consist  chiefly  of  basalt,  slate  and  marble. 
Gypsum  and  a  kind  of  white  clay  are  also 
found  in  many  places;  the  latter  of  which  is 
very  abundant,  and  which  is  used  extensively 
by  the  inhabitants  for  the  purpose  of  white- 
washing their  dwelling-houses,  both  extornal- 
'y  and  internally.  It  is  also  used  for  the  pur- 
pose of  cleansing,  as  a  substitute  for  soap,  and 
for  this  purpose  it  is  found  to  be  rnosi  adniin'.- 
bly  adapted.  It  may  be  estimated  that  about 
two-thirds  of  all  the  western  section  iire  culti- 
vable ■  ruds,  and  tiiat  three-fourths  of  it,  in- 
cluding tlie  arable  lands,  are  pasturable  lands, 
to  each  of  whicli  purposes  the  who'e  section, 
to  the  extent  and  in  the  proportions  stilted,  is 
peculiarly  suited.  The  remaining  jiart  of  this 
section,  whicii  is  the  extremely  mountainous 
portion,  is  notec'  for  its  extraordinary  barren- 
ness and  sterility.  The  soil  of  the  valleys  of 
the  easteiu  section  is  in  all  re!-:pect8  similar  to 
that  of  the  valleys  of  the  western  section  ;  that 
of  the  plains  is  a  deep  brov.n  loam,  witii  y  sub- 
soil of  sand  or  clay,  and  that  of  the  hills  is 
usually  a  light  brnwn  vegetable  earth,  having 
u  substratum  of  gravel,  sand,  or  clay.     Tlie 


mountains  and  hills,  like  those  of  the  western 
section,  are  for  the  most  part  entirely  sterile, 
yet,  as  before  remarked,  there  are  many  por- 
tions of  the  hills  and  mountains  even  f'^at  are 
tolerably  productive.  There  is  a  much  greater 
variety  of  soi'  in  this  than  in  the  western  sec- 
tion; in  one  day's  ride  you  may  pass  over 
every  possible  variety  of  soil,  from  the  most 
fertile  to  the  most  bairen  and  unproducti- e. 
The  mountains  are  generally  composed  jf  tal- 
cose slate,  granite,  hornblend,  and  other  primi- 
tive rock,  and  the  hills  are  principally  com- 
posed of  marble,  limestone,  basalt  and  slate. 
The  wh.ie  clay  before  spoken  of  is  also  found 
in  this  section  in  great  abundance.  The  pro- 
portion of  barren  land  is  much  greater  in  this 
ilian  in  the  western  section.  As  nearly  as  I 
could  ascertain,  about  one-third  of  the  whole 
rsction  is  susceptible  of  cultivation,  while 
about  two-thirds,  including  the  arable  lands, 
are  well  suited  to  grazing  purposes,  and  the 
remaining  third,  for  extraordinary  unfruitful- 
ness  and  entire  destitution  of  all  fecundity,  can 
be  surpassed  only  by  some  portions  of  Oregon, 
which  are  seldom  if  ever  surpassed  in  worth- 
lessness. 

The  information  which  I  was  able  to  acquire 
does  not  afford  me  sufficient  data  upon  which 
to  predicate  any  very  accurate  conclusions  in 
reference  to  the  mineral  resources  of  Cali- 
fornia; but  sufficient  investigations  have  been 
made  to  detennino  that  many  portions  of  the 
mountainous  regions  abound  with  several  kinds 
of  minerals,  such  us  ^old,  silver,  iron,  lead 
and  coal ;  but  to  whp.t  e:  tent,  the  extreme  new- 
ness and  unexplored  state  of  the  country  utter- 
ly preclude  all  accirate  determination.  It  is, 
liowever.  reported  ;n  the  city  of  Mexico  thut 
some  Mexicans  Ivive  recently  discovered  a  sec- 
tion of  country  in  the  eMreme  interior  of  Cali- 
fornia, which  affords  ample  evidences  of  the 
existence  of  both  gold  and  silver  ore,  in  greater 
or  less  quantities,  for  thirty  leagues  in  extent. 
Since  this  report  is  so  very  extraordinary,  and 
since  it  originated  as  above  stilted,  the  safest 
course  would  be  to  believe  but  about  half  of 
it,  and  then,  perhaps,  we  should  believe  too 
much.  Dr.  Sandels,  a  very  able  mineralogist, 
who  had  lor  some  time  been  employed  in  his 
profession  by  the  government  of  Mexico, 
spent  four  or  five  months  in  mineralogical  in- 
vestigation in  Upper  California.  It  was  from 
this  gentleman  that  the  above  information  was 
derived ;  hence  it  is  entitled  to  implicit  re- 
liance. 

The  climate  of  the  western  section  is  that 
of  pi  rpetuiil  spring;  hiiving  no  excess  of  iieat 
or  cold,  it  is  the  most  uniform  and  delightful. 
The  mean  lemporature,  during  the  year,  is 
id)out  Gl"  Fahrenheit;  that  of  the  spring 
is  OG ;  that  of  the  summer  70°;  that  of 
the  iuitumn  t)7^ ;  and  of  the  winter  is  Gl" 
Fahrenheit.  The  mean  temperature  of  the 
Wiirmest  month  is  7-1°,  and  that  of  the  coldest 
month  is  4b^  Fahrenheit.  This  statr'xient  is 
not  designed  to  ap|)ly  to  the  entire  western 
section,  for  in  tiie  extreme  norlln^rn  portion  it 
is  rather  colder  than  would  appear  Irom  this, 
while  in  the  extreme  southern  portion  it  is 


\^ 


rathe 

to  th 

diffe 

tiom 

the 

nortl 

very 

alwa 

but 

nor 

than 

porti 


.  ,^J.^.  !. 


iMiiMMi^^Milifif 


■  ■II  V.  ..irm^rmimtm^tmmmmiifmmmifiin 


the  western 
itirely  sterile, 
re  many  por- 
!ven  f'at  are 
much  greater 
western  sec- 
y  pass  over 
>m  the  most 
nproducti-  e. 
posed  jftal- 
other  primi- 
cipally  coni- 
t  and  slate. 
s  also  found 

The   prn. 

>ater  in  this 
nearly  as  I 
f  the  whole 
tion,  while 
rable  lands, 
es,  and  the 
unfruitful, 
'undity,  can 
i  of  Oregon, 
d  in  worth- 

e  to  acquire 
ipon  which 
elusions  in 
JS  of  Cali- 
5  have  been 
ions  of  the 
ivenil  kinds 

iron,  lead 
tremenew- 
intry  utter- 
ion.     It  is, 
lexico  th^t 
k'cred  a  sec- 
iorof  Call- 
ices  of  tiie 
i,  in  greater 
in  extent, 
linary,  and 
the  safest 
lut  half  of 
lelieve  too 
neralogist, 
^ed  in  his 

Mexico, 
ogical  in- 
was  from 
lation  was 
iplicit  re- 

)n  is  that 
3S  of  heat 
elightful. 

year,  is 
e    spring 

that  of 
er  is  CI" 
B  of  tlie 
t;  coldest 
••'nent  is 

western 
ortion  it 
oni  this, 
iun  it  is 


HASTINGS  ON  CALIFORNIA. 


39 


\l 


« 


rather  warmer.    It  is  applicable  particularly 
to  the  latitude  of  37°  north,  though  very  little 
difference  will  be  found  in  all  the  various  por- 
tions of  this  section,  which  will  be  seen  from 
the   following   statement.      In    the    extreme 
northern  portion  snow  sometimes  falls,  but  it 
very  seldom  lies  more  than  two  or  three  houis, 
always  disappearing  at  the  rising  of  the  sun ; 
but  even  here  running  water  never  freezes, 
nor  docs  standing  water  ever  freeze  thicker 
than  common  window  gluss.     In  the  southern 
portion,  and  even  as  fai-  north  as  latitude  38^ 
north,  snow,  frost  and  ice  are  unknown.     An 
"  equability  of  temperature  is  found  in  all  por- 
tions of  this  section  which  very  few  portions 
of  the  world  afford;  none,  perhaps,  unless  it 
be  some  portions  of  Italy.     In  many  portions 
of  this  section,  immediately  upon  the  coast,  it 
is  warmer  in  the  winter  season  than  in  the  sum- 
mer.   Tliis  is  attributable  to  the  fact  of  the 
winds  blowing  regularly  from  the  north  or 
north-west  durmg  the  summer,  and  from  the 
south-south-west  or  south-east  during  the  win- 
ter, which  also  accounts  for  the  extraordinary 
mildness  of  the  climate  during  all  seasons 
of  the  year.     Compared  with  the  climate  in 
the   same   latitude    on  the  east  side   of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  the  difference  is  almost  in- 
cedible.     It  is  milder  on  the  Pacific  coast,  in 
latitude  42°  north,  than  it  is  in  32°  north  on 
the  Atlantic  coast,  being  a  difference  of  more 
than  leu  dtirrees  of  temperature  in  the  same 
'.at'""ie.     'x  1  fires  are  required  at  any  season 
of  tic  yea  1  ,.'   jinrlours,  offices,  or  shops,  hence 
fnei    -.-  n.  -.c:  inquired  for  any  other  than  -^iili- 
nary  purpjses-     Many  kinds  of  vegetables  are 
planted  and  t-athered  at  any  and  every  season 
of  the  year,  and  cf  several  kinds  of  grain  two 
crops   are   grown  annually.      Even    in    the 
months  of  December  and  January  vegetation 
is  in  full  bloom,  and  all  nature  wears  a  most 
cheering  and  enlivening  aspect.     It  may  be 
truly  said  of  this  country,  that  "December  is 
as  pleasant  as  May."     The  remarks  here  made, 
in  reference  to  the  mildness  and  uniformity  of 
the  climate,  are  applicable  only  to  the  valleys 
and  plains,  for  the  mountains  present  but  one 
eternal  winter.     Hence  it  is  seen,  that  you 
may  here  enjoy  perennial  spring,  or  perpetual 
winter,  at  your  option,     x  ^u  may  in  a  very  few 


days,  at  any  season 
gions  of  eternal  ve-  I 
ice  and  snow,  inJ,  i;> 
almost  every  pu-^f-.  ■.< 
that  of  the  tempt.  A' 
The  rainy  season 


i't!i?  year,  pass  from  rc- 
a-^  K.  those  of  perpetual 
"'lii' a  you  pass  through 
'  'i'lJv  of  climate,  from 
'  ir  vf  the  frigid  zone. 
it-  f"  neijlly  confined  to 
the  winter  months,  durii.^;  .nich  time  rains 
fall  very  frequently,  though  not  incessantly. 
During  '•'l  this  season  the  weather  is  alter- 
nately ••  iy  ,ind  clear;  one-third,  perhaps,  of 
the  whv-.  son  is  rainy,  and  ii  ii'sidue  is 
clear  and  delightful  weather.  The  rainy  sea- 
son here,  although  it  is  confi^'J  to  a  portion 
of  the  same  season  of  the  year  as  that  in  Ore- 
gon, yet  it  differs  in  many  respects  from  the 
rainy  season  ;  i  tb  ..  country.  There,  the 
ruins  ure  aln:?:  ,.  ..'j^essant,  but  slight,  while 
here  they  arc  r_.-H  less  frequent,  but  pour 
down  in  torrenb      i'.f  oni v  rain  which  fulls 


in  this  country  is  during  the  rainy  season ;  dur- 
ing the  residue  of  the  year  scarcely  a  drop  of 
rain  ever  falls,  but  there  have  been  a  few  in- 
stances of  its  falling  as  late  as  April  and  May, 
though  this  is  very  seldom.     In  addition  to 
the  moisture  accumulated  by  the  earth,  during 
the  winter  season,  the  vegetation  always  re- 
ceives additional  moisture  from  the  dews  dur- 
ing the  summer.     It  would  seem  that  the  in- 
habitants  of  a   country  watered  only  by  the 
rains  of  three  months  and  the  dews  of  the  resi- 
due of  the  year  must  suffer  intensely  from  the 
effects  of  such  continued  drought,  but  such  is 
not  the  case  in  this  country.    The  extraordi- 
nary mildness  of  the  climate,  together  with  the 
falling  of  the  rains,  causes  the  vegetation  to 
put  forth  early  in  the  month  of  December,  and 
to  mature  in  the  spring,  or  very  early  in  the 
summer.     So  it  is  c  f  wheat  and  other  grains; 
being  sown  in  November  or  December,  they 
-'Te  matured  in  the  spring  or  early  in  the  sum- 
mer, and    before   they  are  affected   by   the 
drought.    In  many  portions  of  the  country  the 
vegetation,  so  far  from  being  injuriously  affect- 
ed by  the  drought,  is  seen  in  full  bloom  dur- 
ing every  month  of  the  year.    This  remark, 
however,  only  applies  to  a  certain  species  of 
vegetation,  which,  perhaps,  derives  a  sufficien- 
cy of  moisture  from  the  dews.     It  is  true  that 
crops  of  wheat,  corn,  and  the  like,  are  much 
affected  by  the  drought  whenever  there  has 
been  a  deficiency  of  rain  during  tiie  previous 
rainy  season.     When  rains  fall  in  abundance 
during  the  winter,  it  is  held  as  a  sure  prelude, 
and  in  fact  ^.i  assurance  ofan  abundant  crop  the 
ensuing  summer;  but  if  there  is  an  insuffi- 
ciency of  rain,  crops  are  less  abundant.     Sea- 
sons which  are  preceded  by  a  rainy  season, 
which  produces  a  deficiency  of  rain,  are  called 
dry  seasons.     These  are  said  to  occur  gene- 
rally once  in  four  or  five  years,  yet  latterly 
two  dry  seasons  have  occurred  in  succession. 
Although  the  crops  of  the  dry  seasons  a.e 
much  less  abundinl  than  tl'ose  of  theordip*  ry 
seasons,  yet,  as  will  more  fully  appear  upon  a 
subsequent  page,  the  crops  even  of  a  dry  sea- 
son are  much  better  here  than  they  are  at  any 
time  in  Oregon,  or  even  in  most  of  the  States. 
—Pp.  81—84. 

From  what  has  been  said  in  reference  to  the 
clinii-te,  very  correct  conclusions  may  be 
readily  drawn  in  reference  to  the  adaptation  of 
this  country  to  the  promotion  oi  iiealtii.  There 
are  few  portions  ot  the  world,  if  any,  which 
are  so  entirely  exempt  from  all  febrifacient 
causes.  There  being  no  low,  larshy  regions, 
the  noxious  miasmatic  effluvia  so  common  in 
such  regions  is  here  nowhere  found.  The 
purity  of  the  atmospher'?  is  most  extraordinary, 
and  almost  incred'ble.  So  pure  is  it,  in  fact, 
that  flesh  of  any  kind  may  be  hung  for  weeks 
together  in  the  onen  air,  and  that  too  in  the 
summer  season,  without  undergoing  putrefac- 
tion. The  C..';:fornians  prepare  their  meat  for 
food,  as  a  general  thing,  in  this  manner,  in 
doing  which  no  salt  is  required,  yet  it  is  some- 
times used  as  a  matter  of  preference.  The 
best  evidence,  however,  that  can  be  adduced 
in  reterence  to  the  superior  health  of  this  coun- 


40 


HASTINGS  ON  CALIFORNIA. 


ri 


try,  is  the  fact  that  disease  of  any  kind  is  very 
seldom  known  in  any  portion  of  tlie  country. 
Cases  of  fever,  of  any  kind,  have  seldom  been 
known  anywhere  on  the  coast,  but  bilious  in- 
termittent fevers  prevail  to  a  very  small  extent 
in  some  portions  of  the  interior ;  yet  they  are 
of  so  extremely  mild  a  type  that  it  is  very  sel- 
dom found  necessary  to  resort  to  medical  aid. 
Persons  attacked  with  these  fevers  seldom 
adopt  any  other  remedy  than  that  of  abstain- 
ing a  short  time  from  food,  or  going  to  the 
coast.  The  latter  remedy  is  said  to  be  infal- 
lible, and  1  am  innlined  to  that  opinion,  from 


and  live  oak,  ash,  poplar,  cherry  and  willow. 
It  consists  chiefly,  however,  of  the  diflerent 
varieties  of  oak  and  ash.  The  timhor  of  the 
mountains  consists  of  pine,  fir,  arbor  vitac, 
cedar,  and  spruce.  Besides  the  varieties  of 
timber  here  mentioned,  in  many  portions  of  the 
country  there  is  a  dense  underrrrowtli  of  thorns, 
hazels,  briers,  roses,  and  grape  vines,  both  upon 
the  coast  and  in  the  interior.  Tiio  timber  of 
the  eastern  section  is  much  the  same  as  tiiat 
of  the  ivestern  section.  Here,  as  in  that  sec- 
tion, it  is  chiefly  confined  to  the  mountains 
and  rivers,   but  it  is  generally  of  a  much 


the  fact  that  fevers  are  so  seldom  known  any- 1  smaller  growth  than  the  same  species  found  in 
where  on  the  coast,  and  from  one  or  two  cases  that  section.  It  consists  principally  of  pine, 
that  came  under  my  own  observation.  The  fir,  spruce,  cedar,  ash,  poplar,  cherry,  and  wil- 
extraordinary  health  upon  the  coast  is  perhaps  |  low.    The  oak,  ash,  cherry,  poplar  and  wil 


attributable  in  a  great  measure  to  the  efiect  of 
the  exhilarating  and  refreshing  sea-breezes 
which  at  all  times  prevail  in  that  vicinity.  All 
foreigners  with  whom  1  conversed  upon  this 
subject,  and  who  reside  in  that  country,  are 
unanimous  and  confident  in  the  expression  of 
the  belief  that  it  is  one  of  the  most  healthy 
portions  of  the  world.  From  my  own  expe- 
rience and  knowledge  of  the  country,  espe- 
cially of  its  entire  exemption  from  all  the  or- 
dinary causes  of  disease,  and  the  extraordinary 
purity  of  its  atmosphere,  I  am  clearly  of  tbe 
opinion  that  there  are  very  i'eM-  portions  of  tl-  > 
world  which  are  superior  or  even  equal  to  ih 
in  point  of  healthfulness  and  salubrityof  cli- 
mate.  While  all  this  region,  espccialiy  on  the  j  j<. 
coast,  is  entirely  exempt  from  all  febrific 
causes,  it  is  also  entirely  liee  from  all  sudden 
changes  and  extreme  variableness  of  climate, 
or  other  causes  of  catarrhal,  or  consun  ^ilive 
affections  ;  hence  I  cannot  but  ihink  that  it  is 
among  the  most  favourable  resorts  m  the  known 
world  for  invalids. 

The  productions  v*ill  next  engage  our  atten- 
tion; and  here  such  facts  will  be  adduced  as 
will,  to  some  extent  at  least,  sustain  the  view 
taken  upon  another  page,  in  reference  to  the 
extraordinary  fertility  of  the  soil,  'i'he  pro- 
ductions of  the  western  section  will  be  found 
to  differ  very  materially  from  those  of  the 
eastern.  I  shall  first  notice  those  of  the 
western  section  at  some  length.  The  timber 
of  this  section  is  generally  confined  to  the 
coast,  the  rivers  and  mountains,  hut  there  are 
many  portions  of  the  different  valleys,  off  the 
rivers,  which  are  well  supplied  with  good  tim- 
ber. The  largest  and  most  valuable  timber  is 
found  upon  the  coast,  where  dense  forests  in 
many  places  are  found,  consisting  of  fir,  pine, 


low  are  generally  found  upon  and  in  the  vi- 
cinity of  thfc  streams,  while  the  fir,  pine,  spruce 
and  cedar  are  found  mostly  upon  and  in  tho 
neighbourhood  of  the  mountains  and  the  more 
elevated  regions.  The  undergrowth  of  this 
section  also  consists  principally  of  hazels, 
thorns,  briers,  and  grape  vines.  As  before  re- 
marked, there  are  some  portions  of  this  sec- 
tion which  produce  scarcely  any  vegetation 
besides  the  wormwood,  or,  properly,  artemi- 
sia,  and  the  prickly  pear.  It  is  frequently 
asserted  that  there  is  a  very  great  deficiency 
of  timber  in  this  country,  but  such  truly  is  not 
t/'^ca^e;  there  is  ample  timber  in  both  sec- 
ad  in  all  the  various  portions  of  each, 
isef'ul  purposes.  It  is  true  that  there 
IS  u  .he  same  quantities  of  timber  here  as 
are  found  in  some  portions  of  Oregon,  or  in 
some  parts  of  the  States,  yet  the  same  quan- 
tity is  not  required  in  a  climate  of  such  extra- 
ordinary mildness  and  uniformity. 

Both  the  climate  and  tho  soil  are  admirably 
adapted  to  the  growing  of  wheat,  rye,  oats, 
barley,  beans  and  peas,  hemp,  flax,  tobacco, 
cotton,  rice,  coffee,  corn,  and  cane,  as  well  as 
all  kinds  of  vegetables,  nnd  especially  such  as 
potitoes,  turnips,  beets,  carrots,  onions,  and 
the  like.  And  both  the  soil  and  climate  are 
no  less  adapted  to  the  growing  of  the  greatest 
variety  of  fruits,  among  which  are  apples, 
pears,  peaches,  plums;  cherries,  and  grapes,  as 
well  as  most  of  the  tropical  fruits,  particularly 
auch  as  oranges,  lemons,  citrons,  dates,  figs, 
and  pomegranates.  It  is  nilher  surprising 
that  almost  all  of  the  tropical  and  northern 
grains  and  fruits  should  he  produced  here  in 
conjunction,  in  the  same  latitude  ;  hut  it  is  no 
more  surprising  than  it  is  to  find  a  southern 
climate  in  a  northern  latitude,  as  is  the  case 


cedar,  "  red  wood,"  (a  species  of  cedar,)  spruce,  j  everywhere  upon  the  Pacific  coast,  and  v;hich 
oak,  ash,  and  poplar.  Much  of  this  timber  j  is  clearly  attributable  to  tlie  causes  stated  upon 
grows  to  an  enormous  size,  especially  iheja  previous  page.  There  are  other  mediate 
"  red  wood,"  fir,  and  pine,  which  are  tVequeut- '  causes  which  might  be  assigned,  but  the  above 
ly  seen  two  hundred  and  even  two  hundred  is  manifestly  the  proximate  cause;  yet,  ac- 
and  fifty  feet  in  height,  and  fifteen  or  twenty  |  counting  for  a  northern  latitude's  possessing  a 
feet  in  diameter,  'f  his  timber  makes  excel-  j  southern  climate  is,  after  all,  much  like  ac- 
lent  lumber,  hut  its  vast  size  renders  it  tx- 1  counting  for  a  northern  man's  possessing 
tremely  diflicult  either  to  chop  or  saw  it  with  \  .southern  principles  ;  many  circumstances,  in 
any  degree  of  facility.  The  timber  in  the  in-  i  ither  case,  must  betaken  into  the  account, 
terior,  both  on  the  rivers  and  in  the  valleys  re- '  Without  attempting  to  assign  any  further  rea- 
mote  from  the  rivers,  consists  chiefly  of  oak  '  sons,  however,  I  will  proceed  ;  for  perhaps  it 
of  almost  every  variety,  including  rod,  white  is  suflicient  for  the  present  purpose  to  show 


HASTINGS  ON  CALIFORNIA. 


ti 


that  such  18  the  fact,  for  which  each  can  ac- 
count at  his  leisure,  and  in  his  own  way. 
Many  kinds  of  the  grains  and  fruits  above 
enunieniled  are  indigenous ;  for  instance,  the 
oats,  wheat,  and  ryo,  many  of  the  tropical 
fruits,  and  a  great  variety  of  gnii)C9 ;  flax,  a 
kind  of  lieinp,  and  red  and  white  clover  are 
also  indigenous  productions.  The  oats  here 
alluded  to  have  precisely  the  external  appear- 
ance of  our  common  oats,  but  upon  examina- 
tion it  will  be  seen  that  the  grain  differs 
slightly  from  that  of  ours.  It  is  rather  smaller, 
ana  is  covered  with  a  kind  of  furzy  integu- 
ment; otherwise  it  is  precisely  similar  to  that 
of  our  common  oats.  They  generally  grow 
much  higher  than  ours,  and  the  stalk  is  much 
larger,  but  this  is  attributable  to  the  superior 
fertility  of  tlie  soil  and  the  greater  generative 
influence  of  the  climate,  and  not  to  the  differ- 
ence of  the  species.  Their  usual  height  is 
about  two  or  three  feet,  and  the  stalk  is  com- 
monly about  the  size  of  that  of  our  ordinary 
oats ;  but  they  are  frequently  found  even  eiglit 
feet  high,  having  a  stalk  half  an  inch  in  dia- 
meter. Several  of  the  farmers  here  informed 
me  that  they  had  often  seen  many  thousands 
of  acres  in  a  body,  which  were  higher  than 
they  could  roach  when  on  horseback.  They 
only  grow  to  this  enormous  height  during 
those  seasons  which  have  been  preceded  by 
the  falling  of  an  abundance  of  rain  during  the 
rainy  season.  The  season  which  I^  spent  in 
this  region  was  a  dry  season,  that  is,  compara- 
tively little  rain  fell  during  the  previous  rainy 
season ;  but  upon  several  occasions  I  mea- 
sured the  stalks  of  oats,  which  were  six  feet 
lon<r  'id  nearly  half  an  inch  in  diameter.  In 
trav.  ,ig  through  the  various  sections  of  the 
country,  I  have  passed  through  thousands  of 
acrer  which  were  from  two  to  five  feet  in 
height,  and  as  dense  as  they  could  possibly 
stand  ;  when  at  the  same  time  I  almost  hourly 
saw  the  old  stalks  of  years  previous,  which 
were  seven  or  eight  feet  in  length  and  suffi- 
ciently large  and  strong  for  walking  sticks.  It 
is  not  uncommon,  either  in  a  dry  or  wet  sea- 
son, to  see  continuous  plains  and  valleys  of 
thousands  of  acres  in  extent,  which  are  thickly 
and  almost  entirely  clad  with  oats  of  two  or 
three  feet  in  height,  which  would  produce 
much  more  abundant  crops  than  our  cultivated 
oats.  In  many  portions  of  the  country,  in  the 
interior,  the  Indians  subsist  almost  wholly 
upon  them  •,  and  in  other  portions,  if  a  farmer 
wishes  to  grow  a  crop  Gloats,  he  has  nothing 
to  do  but  to  designate  a  certain  tract  as  his  oat 
field,  and  either  fence  it  or  employ  a  few  In- 
dians to  prevent  the  herds  from  grazing  upon 
it,  which  being  done,  in  May  or.lune  he  reaps 
a  much  larger  crop  than  we  are  able  to  do  in 
any  of  the  States  ./ith  all  the  labour  and  ex- 
pense of  cultivation. 

The  clover  of  which  I  speak  is  in  all  respects 
like  our  ordinary  red  and  white  clover,  grown 
in  the  different  States,  with  the  exception  of  its 
growing  much  larger.  Its  usual  height  is 
about  two  or  three  feet,  but  vast  bodies  of  it 
are  frequently  found  four  or  five  feet  in  height 
and  as  dense  as  it  can  possibly  grow.  It  is 
6 


chiefly  confined  to  the  valleys  contiguous  to 
the  rivers,  but  it  is  also  sometimes  found  in 
large  bodies  in  many  of  the  plains  and  upon 
the  hills.  All  of  the  bottoms  and  valleys,  as 
well  as  many  of  the  plains  and  hills,  abound 
with  this  clover,  which,  when  matured,  affords 
a  most  excellfent  natural  hay,  of  which  all 
kinds  of  stock  are  extremely  fond.  The  flax 
found  among  the  spontaneous  productions  is  in 
all  respects  like  that  grown  in  the  States.  Its 
general  height  is  two  or  three  feet,  though  it 
is  frequently  found  much  larger.  Unlike  the 
oats  and  clover,  it  is  chiefly  confined  to  the 
northern  portion  of  the  country,  and  is  seldom 
found  in  larger  tracts  than  five  or  six  hundred 
acres  in  a  body,  but  wherever  it  is  found  it 
grows  very  densely  and  luxuriantly,  even 
more  so  than  that  grown  in  the  East.  The 
fibres  appear  to  be  equally  as  strong  as  those 
of  the  ordinary  flax,  and  it  is  in  truth  the  same 
species.  It  is  used  by  the  Indians  to  a  very 
large  extent  for  the  purpose  of  making  seines 
and  ropes,  to  which  purposes  it  is  found  to  be 
admirably  suited.  The  hemp  here  found  does 
not  resemble  ours,  nor  is  it  properly  hemp,  al- 
though so  called  ;  it  is  properly  a  species  of 
the  spurge,  commonly  called  milk-weed,  but 
there  called  hemp.  Like  the  spurge,  it  emits 
a  milky  juice  when  wounded,  grows  about 
three  feet  high,  and  has  a  tough  fibrous  bark, 
which  is  used  by  the  Mexicans  and  Indians 
in  large  quantities  for  making  ropes,  seines, 
and  for  various  other  purposes.  Compara- 
tively it  grows  in  very  small  quantities,  as  yon 
very  seldom  see  more  than  fifty  or  a  hundred 
acres  of  it  together.  Wheat  and  rye  are  also 
said  to  be  indigenous  growths,  but  I  am  not 
of  that  opinion,  although  I  have  seen  wheat, 
rye,  oats,  clover,  and  flax,  all  growing  toge- 
ther more  than  three  hundred  miles  from  any 
settlement.  But  upon  a  close  observance  I 
perceived  that  the  wheat  and  rye  were  found 
only  in  the  imtnediate  vicinity  of  the  encamp- 
ments of  the  traders  and  trappers,  who  have 
for  years  traversed  that  country.  Upon  in- 
quiring of  those  who  have  resided  in  that 
country  for  many  years,  I  ascertained  that  the 
traders  and  trappers,  in  passing  through  the 
interior,  frequently  take  both  wheat  and  rye 
with  them  as  food  for  themselves  and  their 
horses.  These  facts  were  fully  convincing  to 
my  mind  that  ilie  wheat  and  rye  had  beeu  in- 
troduced into  the  interior  in  that  manner. 
Other  persons  informed  me  that  they  had  very 
frequently  seen  both  wheat  and  rye  far  in  the 
interior,  and  in  portions  of  the  country  never 
visited  by  the  traders  and  trappers  ;  but  still  I 
am  of  the  opinion  that  if  not  introduced  in  the 
above  manner,  they  must  have  been  introduced 
by  the  Indians  or  fowls,  and  hence  that  al- 
though they  are  spontaneous,  yet  they  are  not 
indigenous  productions.  The  various  grasses 
found  hero  are  much  like  those  found  in  Ore- 
gon and  many  of  the  States.  That  common 
to  the  lower  valleys  and  bottoms  is  much 
larger  and  coarser  than  that  which  grows  upon 
the  more  elevated  valleys,  plains,  and  hills. 
The  former  usually  grows  about  two  or  three 
futt  Iwrh,  while  the  latter  grows  but  about 
'2a 


I'  I 


,     i 


m 


;lt  ( 


HASTINGS  ON  CALIFORNIA. 


I 


A     ■         \ 
i  ] 


'.      t 


I  i 


six  inches  or  a  foot  high.  The  short  grass  is 
much  the  finest  and  sweetest,  and  is  always 
sought  after  in  preference  hyall  herbivorous 
animals.  Both  kinds  here  alli  -ed  to  form  a 
very  excellent  quality  of  natunil  hay  during 
the  summer,  of  whiel'  the  herds  are  very  fond, 
and  which  is  sought  by  many  grazing  animals 
in  preference  to  the  green  herbage  which  is 
found  at  every  season  of  the  year.  Thus  it  is 
seen  that  the  various  grasses,  the  oats  and 
clover,  all  of  whicii  are  indigenous  produf- 
tions,  not  only  aflbrd  inexhausted  pasturage 
during  the  growing  season,  bulalso  inexhaust- 
ible provender  during  all  the  residue  of  the 
year.  .     . 

Thus  far  I  nave  only  spoken  of  the  indige- 
nous productions — those  which  are  produced 
by  tillage  will  next  be  considered.  The  wheat 
will  rec'eive  ou'  first  and  most  particular  atten- 
tion, as  it  is  the  principal  grain  grown  in  this 
country  as  yet,  and  as  it  will  undoubtedly  al- 
ways constitute  one  of  the  principal  staples  of 
the  country.  There  are  several  kinds  of  wheat 
grown  here,  among  which  are  all  the  common 
varieties  grown  in  the  States,  as  well  as  seve- 
ral varieties  which  are  unknown  in  the  States. 
The  wheat  most  commonly  grown,  however, 
is  that  w" 'ch  is  called  the  wheat  of  Taos, 
which   grows   here   about  three  or  four  feet 
high,  and  bears  seven  distinct  heads  or  ears, 
each  of  which  is  equally  as  large  as  those  of 
the  coniuion   variety.     One  head   is  situated 
upon  the  stalk  preeisi-Iy  as  tiiat  of  the  ordinary 
Whent,  and  upon  each  side  rf  this   hcul  tliero 
are  tliree  others,  juitting  out  from  tiic  main 
stock    about  iliree-rei.rtiis  of  an  inch  below 
each  other.     Tlie  berry  is  equally  as  large  ns 
tliat  of  the  ordinary  Kii:d,  and   it  is  said    to 
weigh  ahdut  foiirpruiids  to  the  liushel  heavier. 
This  wlit-at  prixlueos  very  abuiul.uitly,  as  also 
do  the  variou--.  other  kinds,  as  far  as  they  have 
been  tried.     The  avenge  crop  is  from  thirty  to 
forty  bushels  to  the  ncr<',  or  to  one  of  sowing, 
but  an  average  croj)  of  fifty,  sixty,  >.nd  even 
seventy  bushels   to  the  acre  is  frequently  re- 
ceived.    Several  very  respoctnhle  and  cr"d;l)le 
gentlemen  informed  nie  that  there  had  been  an 
instance  within   their   own  kn(»wledge,  of  a 
farmer's   having   received   one   hundred   and 
twenty  bushels  to  the  acre  ;  and  that  the  next 
-•  j>,  from  a  spontaneous  growth,  upon  the 
sanid  ground,  he  received  sixty-one  bushels 
to   the   ;\ere.      To  many  it  will   appear  im- 
possi!)ie  tiiat  one  acre  of  ground  sliould  pro- 
duce  tl'.at  quantity  of  wheat,  and    hence   to 
them  the  above  statement  will  appear  incre- 
dible;  but    I   have  not  the   least  doubt  of  its 
entire  correctness.     This  is  no  more  extraor- 
dinary than  it  would  be  to  see  oats  growing 
siiontaiH'ously  four,  or  even  five  or  six  feet 
high,  over  thousands  of  acres;  nor  is  it  farther 
removed  from  the  common  order  of  things  than 
it  would  bo  to  see  spontaneous  growths  of  llax 
and   clover  of  tliree  or   four  feet  in  height, 
covering  vast  plains  and  valleys  as    far  as 
vision   extends — yet    these    things    are    true. 
Wheat  is  generally  sown  from  the  first  of  No- 
vember to  the  first  of  March,  and  is  harvested 
ill  May  or  June,  depending  upon  the  time  of 


its  being  sown,  which  is  usually  deferred  until 
the  commencement  of  the  rainy  season.   This 
course  is  pursued  because  of  the  greater  ease 
with  which  the  lands  are  ploughed  after  the 
falling  of  the  rains.     Rye,  barley,  the  culti- 
V  i  jJ  oats,  hemp,  and  flax,  have  not  as  yet 
been  tried,  but  they  will  all  undoubtedly  pro- 
duce extremely  well,  judging  from  what  has 
been  previously  said  in  reference  to  their  spon- 
taneous productions.     Corn  is  not  grown  to 
much   extent,   but  wherever  it  is   grown  it 
yields  extremely  well,  giving  an  average  crop 
of  about  fifty  or  sixty  bushels  to  the  acre.     It 
is  proper,  howev(  r,  here  to  remark,  that  the 
corn  grown  here  at  this  time  is  what  is  called 
the  Spanish  corn,  which  is  a  much  smaller 
kind  than  our  common  Indian  corn,  and  pro- 
duces much  less  abundantly,  and  that  after  it 
is  planted,  no  further  attention  is  paid  to  it 
until  it  is  matured.    With  ordinary  cultivation 
even  this  kind  would  undoubtedly  give  a  much 
more  plentiful  return.  It  is  commonly  planted 
in  February  and  March,  and  is  harvested  any 
time  after  the  last  of  June,  by  which  time  it 
always  matures.    The  climate  and  the  soil  are 
both  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  growing  of  to- 
bacco, cotton,  rice,  and  cane.    Tobacco  has 
already  been  tested  with  eminent  success — it 
is  said  to  grow  with  as  much  luxuriance,  and 
to  yield  as  plentifully  as  it  does  in  Cuba,  and 
the  quality  is  thought  not  to  be  inferior  to  that 
grown  in  Cuba  or  elsewhere.     Rice,  cotton, 
and  cane,  have  not  as  yet  been  tested,  but  the 
jirobabiliiy  is  that  they  will  succeed  admira- 
bly.    It  is  said  by  some  that  cotton  cannot  be 
grown    even    with   ordinary  success   where 
there  is  no  rain  daring  the  summer;  butexpe- 
rience  controverts  this  view,  for  it  is  grown 
witii  eminent  success  in   other  portions  of 
Mexico  which   have  a  similar  climate,  and 
which  have  not  a  drop  of  rain  during  the  entire 
summer.    All  kinds  of  garden  vegetables  are 
grown  here  with  extraordinary  success,  many 
kinds  of  which  are  planted  and  gathered  at  any 
ane  every  seascn  of  the  year.     Melons  of  all 
kinds  produce  jxtremely  well  in  all  portions 
of  this  sectioii,  much  better  in  fact  than  they 
do  in  uny  portion  of  the  States. 

The  various  fruits  which  are  here  produced 
have  been  enumerated  upon  a  former  page,  in- 
cluding both  those  which  are  indigenous  and 
those  which  are  cultivated,  as  well  as  all  of 
the  northern  and  the  tropical  fruits.     The  lat- 
ter are  chiefly  confined  to  the  southern  por- 
tions of  this  section,  while  the  northern  fruits 
abound  in  all  the  different  portions,  both  in  the 
north  and  the  south.    The  same  variety  of  the 
ordinary  cultivated  fruits  of  the  North  is  not 
found  here,  as  exists  in  many  of  the  States, 
but  several  varieties  have  been  introduced,  and 
they  have  been  found  to  yield  most  plentifully. 
Kven  in  the  most  northern  part  of  this  section, 
ihe  peach  trees  and  various  other  fruit  trees 
bloom  in  January  and  February,  and  in  the 
southern  part  as  early  as  December.     The  cul- 
tivated grape  grows  most  luxuriantly,  and  pro- 
duces very  abundantly,  and  when  ripe  it  is 
among  tlie  most  delicious  and  grateful  fruits 
that  ever  grace  the  festival  board.    There  are 


V? 


first! 
mucl 
riorl 
fror 


HASTINGS  ON  CAILFORNIA. 


deferred  until 
season.    'J'his 
?  greater  ease 
fhed  after  tlie 
3y.  the  culti- 
e  not  aa  yet 
oubtedly  pro- 
om  what  haa 
to  their  spon- 
lot  grown  to 
is   grown   it 
average  crop 
he  acre.    It 
irk,  that  the 
hat  is  called 
uch  smaller 
rn,  and  pro- 
that  after  it 
s  paid  to  it 
y^  cultivation 
give  a  much 
)nly  planted 
rvested  any 
>ich  time  it 
the  soil  are 
mng  of  to- 
'obacco  has 
success — it 
iriance,  and 
Cuba,  and 
prior  to  tliat 
ice,  cotton, 
ted,  but  the 
led  admira- 

I  cannot  be 
!ess  where 
;  butexpe- 
■  is  grown 
lortioiis  of 
imate,  and 
?  the  entire 
etables  are 
iess,  many 
ered  at  any 
Ions  of  ail 

II  portions 
t  than  they 


r  page,  in- 
enous  and 
I  as  all  of 
Tiie  lat- 
thern  por- 
lern  fruits 
)oth  in  the 
iety  of  the 
•rth  is  not 
he  States, 
iuced,  and 
lentifully. 
is  section, 
fruit  trees 
nd  in  the 
The  cul- 
^and  pro- 
ripe  it  is 
^ful  fruits 
There  are 


■"?■' 


many  vineyards  here  of  ten  or  fifteen  acres  in 
extent,  where  the  grape  is  grown  in  large 
quantities,  and  prepared  and  preserved  in  all 
the  various  manners  known  elsewhere.  At 
these  vineyards  raisins  are  made  in  sufficient 
(luantities  for  home  consumption,  and  may  un- 
doubtedly be  made  in  large  quantities  for  ex- 
!)ortation.  They  are  usually  prepared,  either 
)y  partially  cutting  the  stalks  of  the  branches 
before  the  grapes  are  entirely  ripe,  and  allow- 
ing them  to  remain  upon  the  vine  until  they 
are  perfectly  dried,  or  by  gathering  them  in 
their  matured  state  and  steeping  them  for  a 
short  time  in  an  alkaline  lye  previous  to  their 
being  dried.  Those  which  are  cured  by  the 
first  method  are  the  most  delicious,  and  are 
much  preferred,  and  they  are  perhaps  not  infe- 
rior to  the  Malaga  raisins  which  are  imported 
from  Spain.  Besides  the  delicious  fruits 
which  they  afford  for  the  table,  they  also  afford 
a  most  generous  wine,  which  always  consti- 
tutes one  of  the  grand  essentials  of  a  Califor- 
nia dinner.  Here  I  must  confess  that  my  tem- 
perance pledge,  although  formerly  including 
all  alcoholic,  intoxicating,  and  vinous  liquors, 
did  not  extend  to  the  latter  in  California,  and 
I  am  inclined  to  believe  that  old  Father  Mat- 
thew himself,  however  far  he  might  be  from 
doing  so  in  the  north,  would  drink  wine  in 
Calitornia — I  know  old  Bacchus  would. 

A  great  variety  of  wild  fruits  also  abound  in 
all  the  different  portionsof  this  section,  among 
which  are  crab-apples,  thorn-apples,  plums, 
grapes,  strawberries,  cranberries,  whortleber- 
ries, and  a  variety  of  cherries.  The  strawber- 
ries are  extremely  abundant,  and  they  are  the 
largest  and  most  delicious  that  I  have  ever 
seen ;  much  larger  than  the  largest  which  we 
see  in  the  various  States.  They  bloom  in 
January  and  ripen  in  March,  when  they  are 
gathered  and  dried  in  large  quantities  by  the 
settlers  and  the  Indians.  The  grapes  are  also 
unusually  plentiful,  especially  m  the  vicinity 
of  the  rivers,  creeks,  and  lakes,  where  the 
greatest  variety  are  found.  They  are  gathered 
in  great  quantities  by  the  various  tribes  of  In- 
dians, not  only  for  their  own  consumption,  but 
for  that  of  the  white  settlers.  I  have  not  un- 
frequently  seen  the  Indians  arrive  at  Capt. 
Sutler's  Fort,  with  thirty  or  forty  bushels  at  a 
time,  which  being  measured,  the  captain  would 
pay  them  some  trivial  compensation,  when 
they  would  depart  for  their  villages,  with  the 
view  of  returning  the  next  and  every  succeed- 
ing daj'  while  the  grapes  wore  to  be  obtained. 
'J'he  grapes  thus  obtained  by  the  captain  were 
designed  either  for  the  table,  sauce,  or  distilla- 
tion. The  mast  of  this  section  is  also  ex- 
tremely plentiful  in  all  tiie  different  valleys 
and  otlier  timbered  lands,  especially  the  acorns, 
which  I  have  observed  here  in  much  greater 
abundance  than  I  iiave  ever  seen  them  else- 
where. All  the  common  varieties  found  in  the 
States  are  also  found  here,  and  in  quantities 
sufficient  for  the  swine,  and  all  the  other 
animals,  which  subsist  upon  mast,  as  well  as 
the  various  tribes  of  Indians,  many  of  whom 
subsist  almost  entirely  upon  them  the  greater 
part  of  the  year.     Large  spreading  white  oaks 


are  often  seen,  which  produce  thirty  or  forty 
bushels  to  the  tree,  under  many  of  which  the 
ground  is  literally  covered  with  them  several 
inches  in  thickness. 

The  grain  and  fruits  of  the  eastern  section 
differ  somewhat  from  those  of  the  western  sec- 
tion, which  is  attributable  to  the  great  differ- 
ence of  the  soil  and  climate.  Many  of  the 
spontaneous  productions,  are,  however,  the 
same  in  many  portions  of  this  section;  for  in- 
stance, the  oats,  clover,  flax  and  hemp,  many 
of  the  wild  fruits,  and  various  grapes,  all  of 
which  grow  here  also  with  the  greatest  luxu- 
riance and  in  the  largest  quantities.  The  cul- 
tivated productions  will,  from  the  peculiarity 
of  the  soil  and  climate,  be  confined  to  wheat, 
rye,  oats,  flax,  hemp,  tobacco,  corn,  rice, 
beans,  peas,  the  various  vegetables,  apples, 
pears,  peaches,  plums,  grapes,  and  cherries. 
Cotton  and  corn  cannot,  perhaps,  be  grown 
with  any  degree  of  success  in  any  portion  of 
this  section,  nor  can  many,  if  any,  cf  the  tro- 
pical fruits.  Nothing  can  be  said  with  cer- 
tainty in  relation  to  the  yield  of  the  various 
cultivatea  grains  and  fruits  which  may  be  pro- 
duced in  this  section,  as  all  agricultural  ex])e- 
riments  have  thus  far  been  confined  entirely  to 
the  western  section ;  but  judging  from  the 
peculiar  adaptation  nf  the  soil  and  climate  to 
their  production,  there  is  no  doubt  but  that 
many  of  the  various  productions  above  enume- 
rated may  be  produced  here,  with  tlio  same 
cultivation,  equally  as  abundantly  as  they  can 
be  in  tho  western  section,  'i'his  view  is 
strengthened  when  we  reflect  that  all  tho  va- 
rious indigenous  grains  and  fruits  grnwf;(|ual- 
ly  as  luxuriantly,  and  produce  with  equal  pro- 
fusion here  as  in  that  section. — Pp.  85 — 91. 

The  cattle  are  much  more  numerous  than 
the  horses ;  herds  of  countless  numbers  are 
everywhere  seen  upon  all  the  ditTereni  valleys 
and  plains  throughout  this  entire  section.  It 
is  said  that  many  of  the  farmers  have  from 
twenty  to  thirty  thousand  head.  In  whatever 
district  you  travel,  you  see  many  thousands 
of  large  fine  cattle,  which,  in  herds  innumera- 
ble, are  tmversing  those  unbounded  plains  of 
oats,  clover,  and  flax,  of  unpamlleled  growth. 
These  cattle  are  undoubtedly  superior  to  ours, 
especially  for  the  yoke,  as  they  are  much 
larger,  and  they  are  equally  as  valuable  for 
their  milk,  and  much  more  valuable  for  their 
beef,  which  is  always  much  fatter  and  more 
tender  than  that  of  our  cattle.  When  domes- 
ticated, they  are  equally  as  gentle  and  as  tract- 
able as  ours,  but  before  they  are  domesticated 
they  are  as  wild  as  the  deer  or  elk.  Each 
farmer,  however,  usually  has  as  many  of  both 
oxen  and  cows  as  are  required  upon  his  farm, 
which  are  fully  domesticated  ;  but  as  a  general 
thing  they  are  not  only  as  wild  as  the  deer 
and  elk,  but  they  are  as  ferocious  as  tigers. 
Such  is  their  ferocity  that  it  is  extremely  un- 
safe to  venture  among  them  otherwise  than  on 
horseback,  in  which  manner  persons  not  only 
go  among  them  with  perfect  safety,  but  a  few 
persons  may  thus  drive  and  herd  them  w  ith 
the  same  facility  that  they  could  our  cattle. 
Should  a  person  venture  among  them  on  foot, 


i 


1  I 


44 


HASTINGS  ON  CAi.iJ'ORNIA. 


•i;     •  I 


ijl     } 


when  they  are  collected   in   largo  herds,  he 
would  hn  instantly  attacked  and  slain,  unless 
lie  should  find  refuge  in  some  position  which 
would    prove    inaccessible   by   them.      As  a 
general  tiling,  the  farmers  herd  them  regular- 
ly,and  occasionally  drive  them  into  a  "caral," 
o;  enclosure,  when   their  timidity  is   so   in- 
creased and  their  ferocity  is  so  diminished 
thtit  they  are  caught  and  branded  with  much 
facility.     They  are  taken,  when  driven  into 
these  "carals,''  in  a  manner  similar  to  that  in 
which  the  horses  are  taken,  as  before  described, 
but  with  a  slight  difference,  which  I  will  hero 
notice.    The  "lasso,"  instead  of  being  thrown 
upon  tiieir  necks,  is  thrown  upon  their  hind- 
most legs,  when  the  other  end  of  the  "  lasso," 
being  firmly  att<ichcd  to  the  pommel  of  the 
saddle,  the  rider  plies  the  spur  to  his  horse, 
and  in  the  twinkling  of  an  eye  the  captured 
bullock  is  prostrated  upon  the  ground,  plung- 
ing and  le.iping  with  desperate  effort,  to  ac- 
quire an  upright  position,  but  all  to  no  pur- 
pose.    Now  the  red-hot  iron  is  applied,  as  the 
owner  directs,  giving  such  imjiress  as  he  may 
have  selected  as  his  brand,  when  the  "  lasso" 
is  detached  (Voui  his  legs  by  an  Indian,  who 
is  very  cautious  to  secure  a  safe  retreat  be- 
fore lli('  infuriated  animal  again  obt;iiiis  foot- 
ing.    Tiiere  are  stated  times  at  which  the  dif- 
ferent tariucrs  tlius  collect  their  cattle  for  the 
puri)'ise  of  branding  them,  when  the  various 
tanners  in  the  same  neighbourhood    always 
conveiie,  at  each  p   .iit  designated,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  ascert lining  whether  tlieir  cattle  are 
intermingled  with  those  of  their  neighbours. 
Cattle   were  reared  formerly  for  their  hides 
only,  but  latterly   they  are   reared    for   their 
hides,  tallow,  and  beef.     Several  respectable 
genlltinen  informed  me  that  formerly  it  was 
very  common  for  persons  to  kill  hundreds  and  | 
thousands  of  their  cattle  merely  for  their  hides, 
leaving  the  beef  of  innumerable  fine  fat  cattle 
to  the  wolves  and  buzzards.     The  same  gen- 
tlemen also  informed    me  that,  in  travelling 
through  the  plains  of  the  interior,  they  had 
often   seen  the   ground   strewed  with   many 
hundreds  of  large  fat  cattle,  which  had  been 
killed    merely    for  the  hides,  and    that  the 
bodies  being  thus  exposed  to  the  rays  of  the 
sun,  the  tallow  was  actually  exuding  from 
them  to  such  an  extent  that  the  surface  of  the 
ground  was  actually  saturated  with  it  for  seve- 
ral tret  around  each.     Thisaflords  another  in- 
stance of  the  destructive  prodigality  of  the 
Mexicans,  which,  however,  is  not  latterly  pur- 
sued ;  but  the  course  pursued   by  tlieni  now 
would  not  be  considered  sufheiently  frugal  by 
an  American,  as  many  of  them  weekly  kill 
three  or  four  beeves,  which  are  either  used  or 
thrown  away  by  themselves  or  their  servants. 
As  has  been  before  remarked,  both  cattle  and 
horses  are  now  driven  in  large  numbers  to 
Oregon,  and  the  presumption  is  that  the  in- 
creasing emigration  to  that  country  will  ren- 
der it  an  extensive   market  for   the  various 
herds  of  this  country  for  many  years  to  come. 
Much  attention  is  latterly  paid  to  the  rear- 
ing of  sheep,  which  are  now  found  in  great 
numbers,  and  -vhich  are  of  a  very  superior 


kind.  They  thrive  extremely  well,  in  all  the 
various  portions  of  the  country,  hut  more  par- 
ticularly in  the  more  elevated  and  r-ountainous 
regions.  They  are  equally  as  large,  and  pro- 
duce quite  as  much  wool  as  ours,  but  it  is  of 
rather  a  coarser  quality,  which  fact  is  perhaps 
partly  attributable  to  the  climate,  but  mostly 
to  a  total  neglect  in  reference  to  their  improve- 
ment. They  jiroduce  their  young  twice  an- 
nually, and  many  of  the  males  have  two  dis- 
tinct pairs  of  horns,  or  four  horns,  two  upon 
each  side  of  their  heads,  each  coiling  n^peat- 
edly  around,  as  do  those  of  the  ordinary  sheep. 
Many  of  the  farmers  have  as  many  as  ten  or 
twelve  thousand,  of  the  wool  of  which  various 
kinds  of  coarse  cloths  and  blankets  are  manu- 
factured. Sheep  are  also  now  driven  to  Oregon, 
in  numbers  sufficient  to  supply  all  the  differ- 
ent settlers.  The  Hudson  s  Bay  Company 
has  latterly  driven  many  to  that  country,  with 
which  all  its  various  forts  and  settlements  are 
supplied.  Hogs  are  now  reared  by  the  Mexi- 
cans in  all  the  different  settlements,  but  not 
with  a  view  of  making  pork  ;  for,  from  some 
religious  scruple,  or  some  other  scruple,  or 

Rerhaps   from   a  dislike   to   eat   his  kind,  a 
lexican  will  not  eat  pork.     Hogs  are,  there- 
fore, reared  by  them  merely  for  the  purpose  of 
making  soap,  of  which,  by  the  by,  they  re- 
(|i'ire  large  quantities.  From  the  extraordinary 
abundance  of  mast  here  found,  the  hogs  are 
always  fat,  so  that  they  require  no  feeding  at 
any  season  of  the  year.     Besides  the  various 
fruits  upon  which  they  subsist,  there  are  also 
very  great  quantities   of  edible   roots,   upon 
which,  as  well  as  upon  the  oats,  clover,  and 
the  like,  they  subsist  previous  to  the  falling 
of  the  mast.     Hogs,  like  all    other  aninials 
here,  increase  to  an  extentalmost  unparalleled, 
but  they  are  rather  inferior  to  ours,  yet  they 
are  equally  as  large,  weighing  usually  from  one 
hundred  to  six  hundred  pounds.     Herdsmen 
are  always  emjiloyed  by  the  different  fanners, 
to  take  charge  not  only  of  the  herds  of  horses, 
but  also  of  the  cattle,  sheep,  and  hogs.    These 
herdsmen  always  remain  with  or  in  the  imme- 
diate vicinity  of  the  different  herds,  driving 
them  from  place  to  place,  as  circumstances 
may  require,  with  a  view  of  protecting  them 
from    the    incursions    of   the    Indians,   and 
wolves.     The  herdsmen  thus   employed  are 
either  Indians  or  the  lower  order  of  Mexicans, 
who  are  well  skilled  in  their  particular  busi- 
ness, to  which  they  are  very  attentive,  and  in 
which  they  appear  to  enjoy  almost  infinite  de- 
light. The  eastern  section  is  also  well  adapted 
to  the  rearing  of  herds  of  all  kinds,  though,  as 
before  remarked,  it  is  not  as  eminently  suited  to 
this  purpose  as  the  western  section,    'fliat  this 
section  is  suited  in  more  than  an  ordinary  de- 
gree to  grazing  purposes,  will  be  readily  col- 
lected from  what  has  been  said  upon  the  for- 
mer pages,  in  reference  to  its  climate  and  pro- 
ductions, but,  as  no  experiments  have  been 
made  in  this  respect,  nothing  can  be  said  with 
definite    exactness;    enough,   however,    has 
been  said  to  enable  each  to  draw  his  own  con- 
clusions with  some  degree  of  correctness. 
The  game  of  the  western  section  consists 


?%?fe2^ 


wrranir  -■-■.ja 


•  JlLi^"'  L  """  .! 


'^r 


•♦»- 


HASTINGS  ON  CALIFORNIA. 


r40 


well,  in  all  the 
U  l)ut  more  par- 
ndr-nuntainous 
larpf,  and  pro- 
rs,  but  it  is  of 
fact  '\s  perhaps 
itp,  but  mostly 
>tlieir  improvp- 
iinfr  twice  an- 
bavp  two  dis- 
)rns,  two  upon 
Poilinjr  ropeat- 
Jrdinary  sheep, 
lany  as  ten  or 
which  various 
cets  are  manu- 
ven  to  Oreffon, 
all  the  differ- 
iay  (^mpany 
country,  with 
ettlements  are 
by  the  Mexi- 
nents,  but  not 
)r,  from  some 
?r  scruple,  or 
t   his  kind,  a 
gs  are,  there- 
he  purpose  of 
by,  they  re- 
extraordinary 
the  hoirs  are 
no  feeding  at 
s  the  various 
Itere  are  also 
roots,    upon 
,  clover,  and 
)  the  falling 
ther  aniriials 
unpamlleled, 
rs,  yet  they 
ally  from  one 
Herdsmen 
rent  farmers, 
ds  of  horses, 
logs.    These 
in  the  imme- 
rds,  driving 
rcumstances 
poting  ihem       ; 
idians,   and 
iployed  are 
f  Mexicans, 
icular  busi- 
tive,  and  in 
;  infinite  de- 
tell  adapted 
.  tliough,  fis 
ly  siiitfd  to 
Thai  this 
irdinfiry  dc- 
reiidil}'  col- 
on the  for- 
.le  and  pro- 
have  been 
esaid  with 
vever,    has 
is  owncon- 
ctness. 
}n  consists 


,  for  the  most  part  of  elk,  deer,  antelope,  bear, 
wolves,  goats,  foxes,  squirrels,  raccoons,  mar- 
tens, muskrats,  beavers,  otters,  and  seals. 
The  most  numerous  of  thi'se  are  the  elk  and 
antelope,  which  are  found  in  immense  num- 
bers in  all  the  various  plains  and  valleys,  and 
upon  the  hills  and  mountains.  It  is  very  com- 
mon to  see  herds  of  I've  or  six  hundred  elk 
ranging  from  valu  to  vale,  amid  the  oats,  clo- 
ver, and  flax,  with  which  the  plains  and  val- 
leys everywhere  abound.  I  rnmember  to  have 
been  riding  through  these  plains  with  a  coun- 
tryniiin  of  ours,  when,  just  as  we  passed  a 
point  of  timbered  country,  near  the  river, 
about  four  or  five  hundred  elk  emerged  from 
the  woods.  As  they  were  passing,  score  after 
score  in  (|uick  succession,  I  suggested  to  my 
companion  the  propriety  of  shooting  one  of 
them  ;  to  which  he  rcplii'd  tliat  he  "  intended 
to  do  so,"  but  made  no  other  arrangements 
than  to  dismount.  Now,  fearing  that  he 
would  not  shoot  until  they  had  all  passed,  I 
inquired  why  he  did  not  shoot.  He  replied 
that  ho  "would  in  a  moment,"  but  he  per- 
mitted them  all  to  pass  excepting  the  very 
last,  which  he  shot  as  soon  as  it  came  oppo- 
site to  him,  when  it  ran  a  short  distance,  but 
soon  fell.  We  were  instantly  at  the  spot, 
when  the  Calif urnia  hunter  commenced  to  di- 
vest our  victim  of  its  outer  garment.  During 
this  process  1  intiuired  of  him  why  he  did  not 
shoot  before,  when  they  were  much  nearer 
him,  and  the  opportunity  was  so  much  more 
favourable.  He  replied  that  he  saw  I  was  no 
hunter.  "  The  one  behind,"  said  he,  "  I  se- 
lected because  it  was  tlie  fattest;  and  I  knew 
it  was  the  laltest  because  it  was  behind,  for 
the  fit  ones  cannot  run  as  fast  as  the  lean 
ones."  This  view  I  found  to  be  correct — for 
a  fatter  animal  I  never  saw,  in  California  or 
elsewhere.  In  every  part  of  the  country 
through  whieh  I  passed,  I  found  them  equally 
abundant.  M;iny  of  the  farmers,  instead  of 
killing  their  calt.l.?,  go  or  send  their  servants 
out  whenever  they  wish  to  secure  a  supply  of 
meat,  and  kill  as  many  as  they  may  require 
for  their  families  and  the  Indians  in  their  ser- 
vice. Several  of  these  gentlemen  informed 
me  that  lliey  had  very  frequently  killed  seven 
or  eighteaelimorning,and  in  less  time  than  one 
hour.  The  elk  here  are  always  very  fat,  and 
they  make  thi!  very  best  of  beef,  which  is,  in 
fact,  much  tenderer  and  sweeter  than  that  of 
our  common  cattle.  They  are  much  larger 
than  those  which  are  found  on  this  side  of  the 
mouiitriins,  weighing  usually  from  three  to  six 
hundred  pounds.  They  can  bo  as  certainly 
relied  upon  for  their  meat  as  the  conniion  cat- 
tle, for  they  are  very  nearly  as  domestic. 
They  are  very  easily  domesticated,  in  which 
state  they  are  even  now  found  in  various  por- 
tions of  this  section,  and  are  seen  intermingling 
with  other  domestic  animals  upon  the  farms. 

The  antelope  are  equally  as  numerous  as 
the  elk,  and  are  much  more  domestic.  In 
whatever  direction  you  travel,  you  will  see 
many  hundreds  of  them,  either  gmzing  upon 
the  plains  or  collecting  in  large  flocks  in  the 
shades  of  the  scattering  pines  throughout  the 


plains.  They  are  beautiful  animals,  but 
neither  their  skin  nor  flesh  is  as  valuable  as 
that  of  the  elk.  Their  skins  are  much  less 
valuable,  because  of  their  thinness,  and  hence 
inadaptation  to  the  making  of  leather.  In  this 
respect  they  very  much  resemble  the  skin  of 
the  deer,  as  which  thev  are  equally  as  thick 
and  valuable.  Their  flesh  is  much  tenderer 
than  that  of  either  the  elk  or  deer,  but  it  is  also 
much  leaner,  and  consequently  much  less  nu- 
tritious. These  animals  have  many  peculiari- 
ties, some  of  which  are  perhaps  worthy  of  a 
partial  notice.  They  are  extremely  domestic, 
so  much  so  that  they  will  at  times  remain  in 
the  shades  of  the  trees  until  you  approach 
within  a  very  few  rods  of  them,  when  they 
will  bound  olf  slowly,  occasionally  stopping 
and  turning  towards  you,  then  again  leaping 
slowly  away.  Large  numbers  of  them  will 
very  often  trot  directly  towards  you,  and  gaz- 
ing intensely  at  you,  they  will  thus  approach 
within  eight  or  ten  rods  of  you,  when  they 
will  leap  frightfully  away,  a  distance  of  several 
rods,  then  turning  towards  you  again,  they 
will  with  a  fast  pace  approach  very  near  to  you 
as  before,  then  standing  and  looking  eagerly 
at  you,  they  remain  until  their  timidity  is 
again  aroused,  when  they  again  bound  swiftly 
away.  Thus  they  approach,  and  ro-approach, 
very  frequently  and  until  their  curiosity  is 
satisfied,  or  their  fears  arc  aroused,  when  they 
leap  and  bound  away  with  the  relocity  of 
light,  and  are  soon  lost  in  the  sUilworth  vege- 
taticm  of  the  vast  valleys.  Their  curiosity  is 
evidently  excited,  which  is  the  cause  of  their 
|thus  ai)proachingand  re-approaching.  Those 
who  are  acquainicd  with  their  jieculiarity  in 
!  this  respect,  are  frequently  able  to  kill  many 
!  of  them  merely  by  distending  a  red  handker- 
I  chief,  or  any  red  cloth,  which  will  so  attract 
tliiir  attenliun  that  they  will  immediately  ad- 
vani;e  within  a  few  rods  of  them,  wliere  they 
will  stand  gazing  upon  the  clotli  until  they 
are  fired  upon,  when  those  which  are  not  affect- 
ed by  the  (ire  gallop  slowly  away  a  few  rods, 
when  they  again  advance  as  before.  This  is 
frequently  repeated  until  dozens  of  t!iem  have 
fallen  victims  to  their  inherentcuriosity.  The 
deer  are  much  less  numerous  than  either  the 
elk  or  antelope,  but  they  are  much  more  plen- 
tiful than  they  are  in  the  States.  There  are 
various  kinds  of  the  deer  found  in  this  sec- 
tion ;  such,  for  instance,  as  the  white-tailed, 
the  black-tailed,  and  the  moose-deer.  All  of 
these  abound  in  every  jiart  of  this  section,  but 
because  of  their  comparative  wildness,  and  the 
great  abundance  of  preferable  game,  they  are 
very  seldom  hunted. — Pp.  91 — 97. 

The  feathered  animals  of  the  western  sec- 
tion consist  chiefly  of  geese,  ducks,  brants, 
cranes,  gulls,  pelicans,  plovers,  eagles,  hawks, 
ravens,  wood-peckers,  pheasants,  j)artridges, 
grouse,  snow-birds,  blue-birds,  black-birds, 
and  robins,  witli  a  great  variety  of  other  birds 
common  in  the  States.  The  former  of  these, 
and  especially  the  water-fowls,  are  vastly  nu- 
merous, particularly  upon  the  coast,  and  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  rivers,  bays,  and  harbours. 
During  the  winter  and  spring  seasons  all  the 


I< 


HASTINGS  ON  CALIFORNIA. 


i:    f  I 


!l 


,.  ,5 


! 


fH 


I. 


'i1- 


varioua  lakes,  bays,  nnd  rivers,  as  well  ns  the 
lowlands,  and  wlr  ii-ftelds,  throughout  thfi 
whole  country,  are  literally  covered  with  the 
various  water-fowls,  which  appear  to  have 
convened  here  from  all  the  northern  world.  In 
many  portions  of  the  country,  during  those 
seasons,  they  congregate  in  such  immense 
numbers  that  their  unceasing  confusion  proves 
noisome  in  the  extreme  to  the  settlers.  The 
wheat-fields  and  the  lowlands  are  their  usual 
haunts,  during  the  winter,  when  hundreds  of 
them  may  be  killed  in  a  few  liours.  I  waa 
informed  that  one  man  could  at  any  time  dur- 
ing tlie  winter  obtain  feathers  sufficient  for  a 
feather-bed  from  those  which  he  could  kill  in 
a  very  few  hours.  When  passing  down  the 
Sacramento  River,  and  crossing  the  Bay  of 
St.  Francisco,  1  have  frc(]uently  been  greatly 
annoyed  by  the  almost  deafening,  tumultuous, 
and  confused  noises  of  the  innumerable  flocks 
of  geese  and  ducks  which  were  continually 
flying  to  and  fro,  and  at  times  blackening  the 
very  heavens  with  their  increasing  numbers, 
and  making  the  aerial  region  ring  with  their 
tumultuous  croaking  and  vehement  squeaking. 
—P.  99. 

The  principal  settlements,  which  are  discon- 
nected with  the  forts,  missions,  and  towns, 
are  chiefly  within  ten  or  twelve  leagues  of  the 
coast,  with  the  exception  of  those  upon  and  in 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  Sacramento, 
which  are  from  ten  to  fifty  leagues  from  the 
coast,  and  which  are  the  most  extensive  of  all 
the  interior  settlements  of  California.  These 
settlements  are  made  up  almost  entirely  of 
foreigners,  and  chiefly  of^  Americans,  consist* 
ing  of  about  two  hundred  persons,  thirty-three 
of  whom  arrived  with  me  in  that  country 
in  the  autumn  of  1813,  but  the  greater  portion 
of  them  had  resided  there  for  several  years 
previous.  They  all  have  fine  herds  of  cattle 
and  horses,  with  farms,  under  a  good  state  of 
cultivation,  upon  which  they  grow  a  great 
abundance  of  wheat,  corn,  oats,  and  flax,  as  well 
as  a  great  variety  and  superabundance  of  vege- 
tables, and  that  too  with  very  little  labour  or 
expense.  Many  of  these  settlers  are  in  very 
prosperous  circumstances,  and  they  are  all 
doing  extremely  well,  considering  the  very 
short  period  of  their  resi^'encfe  in  that  country. 
They  usually  sow  annually  several  hundred 
acres  of  wheat,  from  which  they  are  not  only 
able  to  supply  themselves,  but  also  to  supply 
all  the  emigrants  who  are  annually  arriving, 
as  well  s"*  to  furnish  much  for  exportation. 
All  the  farmers,  throughout  the  different  por- 
tions of  the  country,  are  succeeding  extremely 
well ;  they  all  grow  considerable  grain,  and 
especially  wheat,  but  they  devote  their  chief 
attention  to  the  rearing  of  cattle,  horses,  and 
sheep.  As  has  been  before  stated,  many  of 
them  have  as  many  as  fifteen  or  twenty  thou- 
sand head  of  cattle,  and  as  many  horses,  and 
from  five  to  fifteen  hundred  sheep.  The 
foreigners  here  conduct  their  agricultural  la- 
bours very  much  as  they  do  in  the  States,  but 
their  improvements  are  materially  different; 
they  very  seldom  construct  rail  fences,  as  they 
find  it  is  less  expensive  to  enclose  their  lands 


by  ditches,  or  to  employ  a   few  Indians  to 

guard  their  crops  tintil  they  are  matured  and 
arvested.  Crops  are  thus  very  easily  nro- 
tected,  as  the  country  is  but  sparsely  settled, 
and  as  the  plains  and  valleys  everywhere 
abound  with  oats,  nnd  clover,  so  that  there  is 
very  little  inducement  for  the  various  lu^rds  to 
intrude  upon  the  cultivated  lands.  In  the  pre- 
sent thinly  settled  state  of  the  country,  an  In- 
dian will  effectually  guard  a  hundrecf  acres — 
hence  cropn  are  protected  in  this  manner  witli 
much  less  expense  than  they  could  l«o  hy 
fencing.  Fencing,  by  ditching,  is  attended 
with  much  less  expense  than  fencing  in  tlio 
ordinary  manner — not  because  timber  cannot 
be  obtained,  but  because  the  Indians  perform 
all  labour  of  that  kind  with  much  expertness, 
and  because  they  are  entirely  unacquainted 
with  the  business  of  making  rails.  The 
buildings  upon  the  various  farms  here,  and 
throughout  all  the  interior,  like  those  in  the 
towns,  are  chiefly  of  "  adobies,"  which  are 
found  by  experience  to  make  much  the  best 
buildings.  These  buildings  are  preferred  for 
various  reasons.  They  are  much  less  expen- 
sive, and  they  are  much  cooler,  and  more  plea- 
sant in  the  summer,  and  warmer  in  winter, 
than  either  those  made  of  stone,  the  ordi- 
nary brick,  or  of  wood.  But  the  chief  circum- 
stance which  gives  them  the  preference  is, 
that  the  Indians  are  able  to  perform  all  the 
labour  in  their  construction.  The  roofs  are 
either  of  tiles  or  shingles,  and  the  first  floors 
are  generally  of  "  adobies,"  of  the  same  size 
and  Kind  as  those  of  which  the  walls  are  con- 
structed. The  farmers  find  all  the  materia!^ 
for  this  kind  of  buildings  wherever  they  wisli 
to  build,  and,  by  calling  a  few  Indians  to  their 
aid,  they  are  able  at  any  time  to  complete  a 
very  comfortable  building  of  this  kind  in  a 
very  few  days.  This  species  of  buildinor  js 
thought  to  be  equally  as  permanent  nnd  duni- 
b!e  as  either  those  constructed  of  brick  nr 
stone,  especially  in  a  climate  of  so  very  little 
rain,  and  of  such  extraordinary  dryness  nnd 
aridity.  The  same  kinds  of  buildings,  I  find, 
are  used  in  all  the  southern  portion  of  Mexieo, 
where  they  are  much  preferred,  and  for  tin. 
same  reason  that  they  are  here  preferred. 

All  of  these  settlements,  as  well  as  those 
connected  with  the  forts,  missions,  and  towns, 
are  supplied  with  all  the  means  of  subsistence 
within  themselves;  they  not  only  rear  their 
own  herds,  grow  their  own  grain,  and  vegetn- 
bles,  but  they  also  make  their  own  cloth,  and 
they  are  all  supplied  with  flouring-mills, 
which  answer  all  the  j)urposes  of  eacii  settle- 
ment. These  mills  are  either  horse-mills  or 
wind-mills,  yet  they  are  found  to  answer  all 
useful  purposes  of  all  the  different  settle- 
ments, forts,  missions,  and  towns.  These  are 
the  only  kinds  of  flouring-mills  in  the  country 
as  yet,  but  a  steam  flouring-mill  was  in  con- 
templation; and,  in  truth,  it  was  commenced 
and  in  a  forward  state  of  progression  when  1 
lefl  that  country.  Lumber  is  generally  sawed 
by  hand,  as  there  are  but  few  saw-mills  as  yet 
in  the  country.  There  were  but  two  saw- 
mills in  operation  in  the  autumn  of  1843,  one 


.A„^ 


^:ms&f^... 


rjotamiiff  ■-■ 


mur-mimMi  *« 


HASTINGS  ON  CALIFORNIA. 


few  Tndihna  to 
re  matured  and 
ery  easily  pro- 
iparsely  settled, 
ys  cverywherp 
90  that  there  is 
•ariniis  herds  to 
Is.  In  the  pre- 
joiintry,  an  In- 
indred  acres — 
18  manner  with 

'   could     l>0    l)y 

(,',  is  attended 
fencintr  in  tho 
timber  cannot 
idians  perform 
eh  expertness, 
unacquainted 
r   rails.      The 
rms  here,  and 
6  those  in  the 
B,"  which  are 
nuch  the  best 
El  preferred  for 
!h  less  expen- 
ind  more  plea- 
ner  in  winter, 
)ne,  the  ordi- 
>  chief  circum- 
preference  is, 
erform  all  the 
rhe  roofs  are 
the  first  floors 
;he  same  size 
walls  are  con- 
the  materials 
vcr  they  wish 
idians  to  their 
o  complete  a 
is  kind  in  :i 
f  buildinir  is 
ent  and  diin- 
of    brick   or 
so  very  littlo 
dryni^sa  nini 
dinirs,  I  find, 
)n  of  Mexico, 
and  for  tin 
referred, 
veil  as  those 
s,  and  towns, 
if  subsistence 
ily  re-.ir  their 
and  V('<rf't;i- 
vn  clotii,  and 
ourinnf-mills, 
f  eacii  settle- 
orse-mills  or 
:o  answer  all 
ferent  settle- 
!.    These  are 
u  the  country 
was  in  con- 
commenced 
ision  when  1 
lerally  sawed 
r-mills  as  yet 
ut  two  saw- 
of 1843,  one 


t 


of  which  was  owned  by  a  Mr.  Graham,  and 
the  other  by  a  Mr.  Yunt,  both  of  which  gen- 
tlemen ore  countrymen  of  ours.  Uesides 
these,  there  was  also  a  steam  saw-mill,  which 
was  then  recently  commenced  by  a  Captain 
Smith,  who  is  the  proprietor  of  the  steam 
flourinjj-mill  before  alluded  to,  and  who  is  also 
a  countryman  of  ours.  Both  of  these  mills 
were  in  a  state  of  completion  when  I  left  that 
country;  the  frames  and  other  wooden  work 
were  very  nearly  finished,  the  enfrino  and 
other  machinery  had  been  received,  and  were 
beinjr  erected.  It  was  thou^rht  that  botli  of 
these  mills  would  be  fully  complcUjd  by  the 
first  of  January,  1843,  at  fartliest.  These 
mills  are  beinj,:  erected  at  Bodajra,  which  has 
been  before  described,  and  which  is  a  very 
favourable  position  for  machinery  of  that  kind, 
especially  for  a  saw-mill,  as  the  whole  sur- 
rounding country  abounds  with  the  most  ad- 
mirable timber  for  lumber  and  ship-building. 
Here  I  will  take  occasion  to  remark,  that  the 
reason  of  machinery's  not  being  established 
in  this  country  to  a  greater  extent,  is  not  that 
there  is  not  a  sufficient  number  of  sites  fiivour- 
able  for  that  purpose,  for  there  are  very  few 
portions  of  the  country  but  that  abound  with 
the  most  eligible  sites  for  extensive  machinery 
of  any  kind.  Many  of  those  portions  of  the 
country  in  the  vicinity  of  the  dilTerent  hays, 
and  of  the  coast  generally,  as  well  as  those 
portions  far  in  the  interior,  aflTord  numerous 
favourable  situations  for  extensive  machinery. 
The  only  causes  why  machinery  has  been  in- 
troduced to  so  limited  an  extent  are,  that  the 
very  sparse  settlement,  and  the  general  inat- 
tention to  the  industrial  pursuits,  would  not 
heretofore  have  warranted  such  expensive  en- 
terprises, and  that  foreigners  of  that  sterling 
enterprise  reqtiisite  to  develope  the  resources 
of  that  delightful  country  have  not,  until  quite 
recently,  turned  their  attention  to  that  remote 
region.  But  now  a  different  state  of  things 
exists — a  new  era  in  the  improvements  of  Ca- 
lifornia has  commenced — here,  as  in  Oregon, 
foreigners  from  all  countries,  of  the  most  en- 
terprising and  energetic  character,  are  annually 
arriving,  selecting  and  improving  the  most 
favourable  sites  fm-  towns,  and  selecting  and 
securing  extensiv::  jrants  of  land,  in  the  most 
desirable  portions  of  the  country. 

The  entire  population  of  Upper  California, 
including  foreigners,  Mexicans,  and  Indians, 
may  be  estimated  at  about  thirty-one  thousand 
human  souls,  of  whom  about  one  thousand  are 
foreigners,  ten  thousand  are  Mexicans,  and  the 
residue  are  Indians.  By  the  term  foreigners, 
1  include  all  those  who  are  not  native  citizens 
of  Mexico,  whether  they  have  become  citizens 
by  naturalization,  or  whether  they  remain  in  a 
state  of  alienage.  They  consist  chiefly  of 
Americans,  Englishmen,  Frenchmen,  Ger- 
mans, and  Spaniards,  but  there  is  a  very  large 
majority  of  the  former.  The  foreigners  are 
principally  settled  at  the  various  towns,  and 
upon  the  Sacramento— those  of  whom  who 
are  located  at  the  latter  place  consist  almost 
entirely  of  our  own  citizens.  The  foreigners 
of  this  country  are  generally  very  intelligent; 


many  of  them  have  received  all  the  advan* 
tages  of  an  education,  and  they  all  possess  an 
unusual  degree  of  industry  and  enterprise. 
Those  who  are  emigrating  to  that  remote  and 
almost  unknown  region,  like  those  who  are 
emigrating  to  Oregon,  are  in  all  respects  a  dif- 
ferent class  of  persons  from  those  who  usually 
emigrate  to  our  frontier.  They  generally  pos- 
sess more  than  an  ordinary  degree  of  intelli- 
gence; and  that  they  possess  an  eminent  de- 
gree of  industry,  enterprise,  and  bravery,  is 
most  clearly  evinced  from  the  v.ry  fiu-t  of 
their  entering  upon  this  most  arduous  and 
perilous  undertaking.  Very  few  cowards  ever 
venture  voluntarily  to  meet  all  those  imaginary 
and  real  dangers  to  which  they  are  necessarily 
exposed  in  crossing  the  Rocky  Mountains  or 
doubling  Cape  Horn;  and  no  indolent  nsan, 
even  if  he  possess  the  bravery  of  Caisar,  can 
ever  summon  the  requisite  energy — and  if  he 
possess  the  bravery  of  Cesar,  and  the  strength 
and  energy  of  Hercule$;,  and  lack  the  enter- 
prise, he  will  have  no  disposition  to  attempt  a 
feat  so  arduous  and  irksome.  Hence,  if  he 
possess  an  unusual  degree  of  cowardice,  he 
dare  not;  if  nature  has  supplied  him  with  a 
great  competency  of  indolence,  he  cannot ;  and 
if  ho  be  not  blessed  with  more  than  an  ordi- 
nary share  of  energy  and  enterprise,  he  will 
not  emigrate  either  to  Oregon  or  California. 
The  above  gives  some  of  the  leading  traits  of 
character  of  the  foreigners  of  California;  but 
extraordinary  kindness,  cor  'tesy,  and  hospital- 
ity, are  additional  traits  which  thay  possess  to 
an  unusual  degree.  A  more  l:ind  and  hospit;i- 
ble  people  are  nowhere  found  ;  they  seem  to 
vie  with  each  other  in  their  kindness  and  hos- 
pitality to  strangers,  and  at  the  :^ame  time  they 
treat  each  other  as  brothers.  Here  you  see  tho 
citizens  and  subjects  of  almost  every  nation  in 
the  civilized  world,  united  by  the  silken  chains 
of  friendship,  exerting  every  energy,  and  doing 
everything  in  their  power  to  promote  the  indi- 
vidual and  general  welfare.  Upon  the  arrival 
of  a  stranger  among  them,  the  question  is  not, 
is  ho  an  Englishman,  an  American,  or  French- 
man, but  is  he  a  foreigner  1  which  latter,  if 
he  is  found  to  be,  he  receives  all  that  kindness 
and  hospitable  attention  peculiar  to  tiie  fo- 
reigners of  California.  These  are  truly  a 
happy  people,  among  whom  no  distinction  of 
clime  is  recognised,  national  preferences  and 
prejudices  do  not  exist,  religious  rancour  is 
hushed,  and  all  is  order,  harmony,  and  peace. 
The  sages  of  bygone  days  sighed  for  such 
scenes  as  here  exist,  but  they  realized  them 
not;  the  children  of  fancy  dreamed  their 
dreams  of  union  and  harmony,  but  the  fo- 
reigners of  California  enjoy  their  desired  real- 
ities—Pp.  110—113. 

The  Mexicans  here  are  a  peculiar  people, 
not  only  in  reference  to  their  intelligence,  go- 
vernment, and  all  other  particulars  before 
mentioned,  but  also  in  reference  to  their  man- 
ners and  customs.  The  lower  order  of  them 
live  in  mere  huts,  the  walls  of  which  are  con- 
structed of  poles,  which  are  set  upright,  side 
by  side,  one  end  being  permanently  fixed  in 
tiie  ground  ;  the  other  ends  are  attached  with 


4' 


I 

I 


1 1 


48 


HASTINGS  ON  CALIFORNIA. 


I     4 


?;>. 


t  i 


•  1 


raw-hido  ropes  to  a  pole,  which  is  plnced  hori- 
zonUilly  on  each  side  of  Uio  wallit  thus  con- 
structeu,  and  about  six  or  neven  (w.t  from  the 
ground.  'I'lio  four  walU  being  thus  erected, 
poles  are  then  placed  trnnsverseiy  from  one 
wall  to  llu)  other,  which  are  covered  either 
witli  hay,  ttaffa,  or  cornstulkii,  conHtitutingtho 
roof,  when  tiie  hut  is  completed,  bavinpr 
neither  floor  nor  chimney.  Tiio  stcond  aiid 
hiKJier  orders  occupy  such  hiiiidinjjs  as  have 
been  described  upon  a  tbrnifr  |)n((i',  most  of 
which  lire  also  without  eiliier  ciiiiiiniys  or 
floors.  No  furniture  is  f{»'>"'nilly  found  in  or 
about  the  bouses  of  the  lower  orders,  except- 
ing here  aiid  there  a  raw  bullock's  hide  spread 
upon  the  ground,  which,  tog('tln!r  with  a 
blanket  or  two,  constitutes  their  beds  and  bed- 
ding. Their  clothing  generally  consists  of 
nothing  more  than  a  shirt  and  a  pair  of  panUi- 
louns,  yet  some  of  them  also  have  a  kind  of 
rude,  primitive  hat,  and  sandals.  Thu  chase, 
and  servitude  to  the  higher  orders,  furnish 
them  a  livelihood  ;  they  subsist  almost  entire- 
ly upon  meat,  fish,  oats,  and  edible  roots. 
Those  of  the  second  and  higher  orders,  who 
reside  in  the  interior,  although  they  have 
"adobio"  houses,  yet  they  generally  have 
neither  beds,  chairs,  tables,  nor  any  other  fur- 
riture,  excepting  such  beds  as  those  before 
described,  and  a  raw  hide  spread  upon  the 
ground,  which  constitutes  a  table,  with  a  few 
8t(iols  or  inillocks'  heads,  whicii  answer  as 
chairs.  Their  apparel  consists  of  a  shirt,  a 
pair  of  pantaloons,  some  kind  of  a  hat,  and 
shoes,  or  sandals,  in  addition  to  which  some 
have  a  pair  of  breeches,  and  a  blanket,  with  a 
perforation  in  tiit;  middle,  through  wiiieh  they 
put  their  heads,  and  thus  form,  as  they  think, 
a  very  convenient  coat  or  cloak.  Meat,  fish, 
beans,  bread,  and  fruit,  constitute  their  food. 
15ut  llu^y  subsist  ehielly  upon  the  foiiner,  as  a 
matter  of  prelereiux'.  Should  you  call  at  the 
residence  of  oiiu  of  thesH  Mexicans,  even  of 
the  hii;liest  class  residing  in  the  interior,  you 
would  not  only  be  received  very  kindly,  but 
you  would  also  be  annoyed  witii  continued 
jjrollers  of  all  tlie  luxuries  which  they  possess. 
And  siiould  you  remain  until  noon,  a  large 
(juantity  of  beef  will  be  roasted  before  the  fire, 
which,  when  done,  will  be  attached  to  a  few 
sticks  which  are  driven  into  the  ground  for 
that  j)urpose,  in  the  middle  of  the  room,  when 
you  are  invited  to  sit  down  with  them  and 
j)artake  of  the  rich  repast;  at  the  same  time  you 
are  ofl'ered  a  stool  or  beef's  head  as  a  substi- 
tute for  a  chair,  if  there  happens  to  be  one 
convenient;  if  not,  you  are  expected  to  sit 
upon  ibo  ground.  Ucing  thus  located,  you 
now  commence  the  dissection  and  mastication 
of  the  half  or  quarter  of  a  beef,  as  tlie  case  may 
be,  with  which  you  are  now  conlVonted ;  but 
in  this  operation  you  labour  under  the  disad- 
vantage of  having  none  of  the  ordinary  instru- 
ments used  upon  such  occasions — hence  you 
are  under  the  necessity  of  using  your  pocket- 
knife,  or  such  other  knife  as  you  may  chance 
to  have  in  your  possession.  Among  some  of 
these  people,  in  addition  to  the  roasted  beef, 
you  would  also  be  furnished  with  a  little  bean 


soup,  and  perhaps  some  broad — but  they  all 
view  plates,  knives,  and  forks,  and  thu  like, 
B8  mere  useless  appendages.  Should  you  call 
upon  those  of  the  lower  order,  with  the  view 
of  obtaining  a  dinner,  the  presumption  is  that 
the  whole  affair  would  result  in  a  disgusting 
failure,  if  not  on  their  part  in  an  attumpt  to 
|)rocuro  something  for  you  to  eat,  at  least  upon 
your  part  in  your  attempt  to  eat  what  tiiey 
have  succeeded  in  procuring — but  whatever 
they  have  they  will  readily  oiler  you,  witti 
much  apparent  anxiety  to  acconimoJati).  The 
higher  order  of  tlioso  who  reside  in  the  differ- 
ent towns,  and  at  the  missions,  generally  live 
very  well — much,  in  fact,  as  the  foreigners  do 
who  are  ei|ually  as  abundantly  supplied  with 
all  the  necessaries  and  luxuries  of  life  as  citi- 
zens of  our  own  country,  or  those  of  any  other. 
All  classes  of  the  Mexicans  are  unusually  kind 
and  hospitiible  to  foreigners,  as  far  as  it  relates 
to  their  recejUion  and  trctatment  as  guests. 
Whatever  attention  and  kindness  you  may  re- 
ceive at  their  hands  while  guests,  and  how- 
ever long  you  may  remain  with  them,  they 
will  receive  no  compensation,  but  to  your  pro- 
position to  remunerate  them,  tluiy  invariably 
reply,  "  God  will  pay." 

Labour  of  all  kinds  is  performed  by  the  In- 
dians and  the  lower  order  of  the  \lexican3, 
but  those  who  are  not  bound  in  servitude  to 
others  labour  very  little,  as  a  competency  of 
food  and  raiment  is  readily  acquired  with  very 
little  exc^rtion.  Among  all  classes  oxen  are 
principally  used  for  the  draught,  dniwing  by 
their  horns,  instead  of  their  necks,  as  in  the 
ordinary  manner;  a  strong  piece  of  timber, 
about  as  large  as  an  ordinary  yoke,  is  placed 
upon  the  necks  of  the  oxen,  just  back  of  the 
horns,  to  which  it  is  permanently  attached  by 
means  of  a  raw-bide  rope.  To  the  middle  of 
this  new-fasiliioned  yoke,  a  strong  raw-hide 
rope  is  alTixed,  to  which  the  cart,  plough,  or 
whatever  else  is  to  be  drawn,  is  attiiched, 
when  all  is  in  readiness  for  actual  service. 
Those  oxen,  yoked  in  this  manner,  draw  most 
extremely  large  draughts,  but  by  no  means  as 
large  draughts  as  they  could  draw  if  yoked  in 
the  ordinary  manner.  The  plough  which  is 
in  use  among  the  Mexicans  is  certainly  among 
the  most  simply  constructed  and  cheapest  of 
farmini.;  utensils,  being  generally  a  mere 
forked  stick,  one  prong  of  which,  being 
pointed,  answers  as  the  share,  and  the  other, 
having  a  notch  cut  at  the  end,  to  which  a 
rope  may  bo  attached,  constitutes  the  beam, 
while  the  main  stalk,  extending  back  a  few 
feet  from  the  union  of  the  two  prongs,  consti- 
tutes the  handle.  This  is  the  California  plough, 
which  is  in  general  use  throughout  the  entire 
country ;  but,  as  an  improvement  upon  this 
plough, someof  the  Mexicans constructoneina 
din'erent  manner,  though  with  the  same  regard 
I  to  clieapness,  being  two  sticks  of  timber  so 
I  attached  as  to  form  a  plough,  very  much  like 
j  that  just  described,  and  designed  only  as  a 
substitute  for  that  when  a  natural  fork  cannot 
be  conveniently  found.  Horses  are  seldom 
used  otherwise  than  as  saddle-horses,  but  we 
frequently  see  large  draughts  drawn  by  them, 


■is. 

HI 


jMrntmiK^ 


WS»i>ii 


r:T^i 


HASTINGS  ON  CALIFORNIA. 


broad— but  tlioy  all 
forki,  hnd  tliu  like, 
a.  iShoiiid  you  call 
rder,  with  tho  view 
pnmuinption  in  that 
lult  in  )i  diHi;rustini; 
rt  in  an  nttumpt  ti) 

to  oat,  iit  ItniHtiipnn 
t  to  eat  what  tlity 
rin{( — but  whatiivfT 
ily  oflVr  you,  with 
iceoniuiodato.  Tht' 
rcsidi!  ill  U\n  dilftir- 
lions,  jrciiornlly  iivo 
ns  liie  Ibrciirnt-rs  do 
uilly  supplied  Willi 
iirios  of  I  ill)  as  citi- 
r  those  of  any  other, 
saroiiiiufiualiy  kind 
s,  as  far  as  it  relates 
i!atnient  as  guests, 
ndness  you  may  ro- 

gueslM,  and  liow- 
n  with  them,  they 
on,  hut  to  your  pro- 
fO),  they  invariably 

Rrformed  by  the  In- 
■  of  the  ^Iexican^, 
ind  in  servitude  to 

I  a  competency  of 
acquired  with  very 

II  classes  oxen  are 
aught,  drawing  by 
r  necks,  as  in  the 
2;  piece  of  timber, 
ry  yoke,  is  placed 
1,  just  back  of  the 
nently  attached  by 

'i'o  the  middle  cV 
a  strong  raw-hide 
e  cart,  plough,  or 
awn,  is  atUiched, 
for  actual  service, 
nanner,  draw  most 
ut  by  no  means  as 
1  draw  if  yoked  in 

plough  which  is 
iscert;iiiilyamon|{ 
1  and  cheapest  of 
jeiierally  a  mere 
of  which,  bcin;; 
are,  and  the  other, 

end,  to  which  a 
stitutes  tlio  beam, 
iidiiig  back  a  few 
wo  prongs,  consti- 
California  plough, 
ughout  tho  entire 
veinent  upon  this 
8  construct  one  inn 
h  the  same  regard 
;lcks  of  timber  so 
1,  very  much  likt 
^signed  only  as  a 
atural  fork  cannot 
lorses  are  seldom 
le-horses,  but  we 
s  drawn  by  them, 


which,  instead  of  being  hnrnessod  in  the  ordi- 
nary maniu^r,  aro  put  under  the  saddle,  the 
girth  of  which  is  lirawn extremely  tight,  when 
one  end  of  the  strong  raw-hido  rope  is  at- 
tached ti)  the  stone,  wood,  or  •■batever else  is 
to  bo  dniwn,  while  the  nt'  I  is  (irmly  at- 

tiirlied   to  the  poiiiiiiel  of  .(Idle,     hvery 

thing  being  tiius  arranged,  the  Mexican,  vvitn 
his  heels  loaded  down  with  ponderrius  gin- 
gliiig  spiirw,  now  mounts  bis  steed,  to  whose 
Bides  he  jilies  liis  lieels  willi  such  ijninlcd  ex- 
BctiHiss,  siicli  forc(!  and  coiifuse(f  gingling, 
that,  as  the  only  alternative,  he  leaps  and  darts 
Hway  Willi  his  iinmcnse  load,  notwithstanding 
its  very  great  ponderosity.  VVilh  horses  har- 
nessed ill  this  manner,  it  is  ((uito  common  to 
•ee  Mexicans  on  their  way  to  market,  their 
Tehicles  being  a  dry  bullock's  hide,  to  which 
ane  end  of  a  long  raw-hide  rope  is  alUiched, 
tne  other  end  of  which  is  attached  to  the  pom- 
mel of  the  saddle  of  their  riding-horses.  Upon 
this  hide,  thus  dragging  upon  the  ground,  are 
hea|)ed  vegt tables,  fowls,  and  whatever  else 
they  may  have  in  readiness  for  tho  market,  as 
Well  as  two  or  three  women  and  children, 
which,  from  all  appearances  are  not  designed 
for  the  market,  or,  at  all  events,  it  would  seem 
that  they  would  not  sell  to  a  very  good  advan- 
tage without  the  preparatory  expense  of  a 
thorough  scouring.  Upon  arriving  in  market, 
I  have  frequently  seen  these  inventive  geniuses, 
with  their  strange  omnibuses  and  omnifarious 
loading,  passing  about  from  place  to  place 
until  they  disposed  of  all  their  load,  excepting 
that  part  of  it  which  partook  somewhat  of  hu- 
manity, when  they  alho  disposed  of  theirextraor- 
dinary  vehicles,  and  returned  to  their  homes 
as  they  best  could,  some  on  horseback,  some 
on  foot,  and  others,  I  know  not  how,  unless  by 
"  steam,"  to  raist^  which  they  appeared  to  be 
making  sr  etlbrts,  which  I  thought  would 
most  hk  cceed.     These  are  the  vehicles 

in  comtii  tmong  the  Mexicans,  but  many 

of  the  foreigners  as  well  as  some  of  the  higher 
order  of  the  Mexicans  have  carts,  wagons,  and 
even  carriages ;  but  these  are  very  seldom  seen, 
and  especially  the  latter,  as  travelling  is  as 
yet  almost  entirely  on  horseback  and  by  water, 
the  former  of  which  methods  is,  however,  much 
the  more  generally  adopted  both  by  the  Mexi- 
cans and  foreigners. — Pp.  124 — IW. 

The  market,  trade,  and  commerce  will  now 
lie  briefly  noticed,  when  I  shall  have  done  with 
(/alifnrnia.  There  is  at  this  time  an  ample 
market  in  all  the  various  portions  of  this 
country  for  all  the  surplus  products  of  what- 
ever kind  ;  and  this  market  is  certain  and  uni- 
form, being  subject  to  none  of  those  fluctu- 
ations to  which  our  market  in  all  portions  of 
the  States  is  subject.  Wheat  has  uniform- 
ly sold  in  all  portions  of  this  country  for 
about  one  dollar  per  bushel,  which  it  is  row 
worth  ;  corn  is  worth  fifty  cents  per  bushel ; 
beans  one  dollar  per  bushel ;  and  potatoes  fifty 
cents  per  bushel ;  cattle  are  worth  from  one  to 
five  dollars  per  head ;  horses,  from  three  to 
fLMi  dollars;  sheep ,  from  one  to  two  dollars; 
:ii;d  hogs  from  one  to  three  dollars  ;  hides  are 
:U:      Y,  i.Mih  from  one  to  two  dollars  each  ;  tallow 


,1 


from  two  to  five  centi  per  pound  ;  beef  from 
one  to  three  cents  per  pound;  butter  from  five 
to  twenty  cents  per  pound  ;  and  (lour  from  five 
to  eight  dollars  per  barrel ,  which  prices,  with 
very  lew  exceptions,  have  remained  the  s.iine 
for  successive  years.  The  Hudson's  Hay 
('ompaiiy,  and  the  Hussians,  at  present  alTord 
an  ample  market  for  all  tho  wheat  which  is  as 
yet  grown  in  this  country;  and  they,  as  well 
as  the  American  merchants,  alFord  an  exten- 
sive market  for  the  furs,  hides,  and  tallow,  as 
well  as  much  of  the  beef,  butter,  and  vegeta- 
bles ;  yet  for  the  latter,  especially  the  beef,  but- 
ter, and  vegetables,  tho  shi|is  of  war  and  the 
whale  ships  afford  the  most  extensive  and 
valuable  market.  Tho  increasing  emigration, 
however,  will  afford  an  extensive  market  for 
most  of  tho  surplus  grain,  as  well  as  for  nmny 
cattle,  and  horses,  sheep,  and  hogs,  for  many 
years  to  come ;  yet  the  market  for  all  the  pro- 
ducts of  the  country  will  be  ultimately  found 
in  the  iSouth  American  States,  the  various 
islands  of  the  Pacific,  the  Russian  settlements, 
('hina,  and  Kngland.  The  very  great  variety 
of  tho  productions  will  require  a  variety  of 
markets;  producing  the  tropical  productions, 
it  requires  a  northern  market;  and  as  it  pro- 
duces the  northern  productions,  it  requires  a 
southern  market.  '1  be  staples  will  eventually 
be  beef,  pork,  fish,  various  kinds  of  grain, 
(lour,  wool,  bides,  tallow,  furs,  lumber,  cotton, 
tobacco,  rice,  sugar,  and  cofl"ee,  as  well  as  coal, 
iron,  and  various  other  minerals.  This  very 
greatvaricty 'if  productions  will  alford  the  peo- 
|)le  of  this  region  all  the  means  of  subsistence 
within  their  jwn  country,  will  vastly  enhance 
its  wealth,  aid  add  in  an  eminent  degree  to 
the  prosperity  and  happiness  of  the  peojile. 

The  trade  of  this  country  is  chiefly  ^  irried 
on  at  the  different  towns,  where,  con  lering 
tlie  extreme  newness  and  unsettled  stale  of  the 
country,  it  is  already  very  extensive.  At 
each  of  the  towns  before  enumerated,  there  are 
several  stores,  at  which  an  extensive  business 
is  daily  transacted,  which  is  found  to  bo  very 
lucrative.  All  kinds  of  dry  goods,  groceries, 
hardware,  and  cutlery,  are  much  dean^r  here 
than  they  are  either  in  Oregon  or  the  Slates, 
being  sold  hero  at  prices  about  five  hundred 
per  cent,  higher  than  they  are  in  either  of  those 
countries,  which  is  owing  to  the  imposition 
of  excessive  and  unparalleled  duties  upon  im- 
ports. The  enormous  amount  of  dutii's  that 
IS  annually  received  by  the  ffnverninent,*or 
rather  the  prodigal  oflicers  of  the  goveriiuient, 
notwithstanding  the  innumerable  hv.iks,  is  es- 
timated at  two  hundred  thousand  dollars. 
Wages  of  labour,  both  for  mechanics  and  or- 
dinary hands,  is  very  high — those  of  the  for- 
mer being  from  two  to  five  dollars  per  day, 
and  those  of  the  latter  from  one  to  three  dol- 
lars per  day.  The  cause  of  wages  being  so 
very  high,  is  attributable  to  the  fact  of  there 
being  so  very  few  mechanics  in  the  country, 
and  the  great  aversion  to  industrial  p'irsuils 
which  has  heretofore  existed  in  that  country. 
This  aversion  to  industry  evidently  ar(>se  from 
the  fact  of  there  being  no  apparent  necessity 
to  labour;  or,  in  other  words,  from  tlu'  unpa- 


5  t 

1 

1 


i  I 


90 


HASTINGS  ON  CALIFORNIA 


u     r 


ralleled  facilities  which  here  exist  for  acquir- 
ing a  competcrcy,  and  even  a  superfluity,  by 
the  easy  process  J  doing  nothing.  Indians 
are  readily  employed,  and  in  any  numbers,  at 
the  triflinjr  expense  of  merely  fiirnishingthem 
such  clothing  ?«  a  coarse  tow  siiirt,  and  a  pair 
of  pantaloons  of  similar  cloth,  and  with  such 
food  as  m«at  alone,  or  whatever  else  yo".  may 
feel  disposed  to  furnish  for  them — fo'  any  tiling 
wiiich  you  might  feel  disposed  *j  provide  for 
them  would  l>e  preferable  to  the  crickets  and 
grasshoppers  upon  whicli  tliey  have  forinfrly 
subsist.  J.  There  are  several  foreigners  who 
have  ft  im  one  to  four  hundred  of  them  ei»- 
ploycd  upon  these  terms;  and,  when  thus  em- 
ployed, should  they  leave  their  employer  with- 
out just  cause,  he  is  autliorized  to  reUike  thtm 
wherever  he  may  find  them,  in  whosesoever 
service  they  may  be  engaged.  It  is  usually 
understood  that  slavery  does  not  exist,  in  any 
form,  in  any  portion  of  the  Mexican  dominions; 
yH  the  natives,  botii  in  California,  and  several 
other  port'ons  of  that  country,  and  in  '  uth  in 
all  portiom  of  it,  are  in  a  state  of  absolute 
vassalage,  even  more  degrading  and  more  op- 
pressive than  that  of  our  slaves  in  the  South. 
Whether  sl'.very  will  eventually  be  ioleraled 
in  this  country,  in  any  form,  I  do  not  pretend 
to  say,  but  it  is  quite  certain  that  the  labour 
of  Indians  will  for  many  years  be  as  little  ex- 

tiensive  to  the  farmers  of  that  country  as  slave 
abour,  being  procured  foramere  nominal  con- 
sideration. 

Considering  the  very  i-.hort  space  of  lime 
which  has  elai)se(l  since  the  dilVercnt  govern- 
ments have  turned  theirattcntion  tothiscoim- 
try,  and  the  very  little  which  is  as  yet  known 
in  reference  to  it,  its  present  commerce  is 
scarcely  paralleled  ;  some  conception  of  which 
may  be  drawn  from  what  has  been  said  upon  a 
former  page,  in  reterenco  to  its  extensive  im- 
ports and  duties.  Fifteen  or  twenty  vessels 
aro  not  unfrequently  seen  in  many  of  the  va- 
rious ports  at  the  same  time,  displaying  the 
national  Hags  of  all  the  principal  powers  of  the 
world.  Merchant  vessels  of  the  (nited  States, 
England,  Fnnce,  Russia,  and  Mexico,  as  well 
as  the  ship?  war  and  the  wluile  ships  of  ibe 
four  former  governments,  are  to  he  seen  at  al- 
most any  time  in  the  different  ports  of  this 
country,  and  of  all  of  which  there  are  frequent 
arrivals  and  departures.  The  ships  of  war 
whi^h  cruise  in  the  Pacific  touch  very  fre- 
(|«A>ntly  at  the  various  ports  of  this  country, 
lor  the  purpose  of  obi  ining  fresh  supplies  of 
water  and  provisions,  and  maintJiining  the 
righu  of  their  resjieclive  governments,  as  well 
as  for  the  purpose  of  capturing  now  and  tiien 
a  soiall  town,  or  seizing  liere  and  there  upon 
an  island  of  the  Pacific.  The  merchant  ves- 
sels are  much  the  more  numerous,  and  arc 
chiefly  those  of  the  United  States,  which  ar- 
rive in  that  country  each  spring,  and  depart 


for  the  States  every  autumn  or  winter.  Ar- 
riving in  the  spring,  they  are  engaged  in  the 
coa.^ting  trade  until  the  latter  part  of  the  fall  or 
the  early  ^art  of  the  winter,  when  they  depart 
for  thf  States  with  cargoes  of  hides,  fciliow, 
or  fi  fs,  which  have  been  collected  during  the 
previous  year.  About  one-half  of  the  mer- 
chant vessels  engaged  in  this  trade  always  re- 
main in  the  country,  engaged  in  the  coastinrr 
trade,  while  the  residue  return  to  the  States. 
Knglanrl,  or  France,  for  the  purpose  of  renew- 
ing their  stock  of  goods.  Sever!  of  thes" 
vessels  usually  belong  to  the  same  houses, 
either  of  Boston  or  New  York;  which  always 
kee|)  a  number  in  the  country,  while  they  em- 
ploy others  'onstantly  in  exporting  the  pro- 
d\icts  of  Ci'lifornia,  ai.d  importing  goods  i'ui 
that  trade,  which  they  dispose  of  at  most;  ex- 
traordinary j)rices.  'riic  whale  ships  touch  fl 
the  various  ports  lor  the  purpose  of  o''tiiininir 
supplies  of  provisif-ns  and  water,  and  also  for 
the  purpose  of  tniile  with  the  inhabitants.  Be- 
sides the  ships  and  vessels  above  enumerated, 
there  are  numerous  others,  as  well  as  various 
barques  and  brigs,  which  annually  touch  at 
the  various  ports  of  this  country,  not  only  from 
the  States,  Kngland,  France,  and  Russia,  but 
also  from  the  Sandwich  Islands,  the  Russian 
settlements,  and  China. 

The  foregoing  will  enable  uc  to  form  very 
correct  conclusions  in  reference  to  the  present 
and  future  commerce  of  this  infant  country— 
the  former  of  which,  considering  the  newness 
of  tiie  country,  and  the  sparsencss  of  the  popu- 
lation, is  scarcely  Kjualled  ;  and,  if  the  pre- 
sent may  be  considered  as  a  prelude  to  the 
future,  the  latter  is  destined,  in  a  very  few 
years,  to  exceed  by  far  tjiat  of  any  other  coun- 
try of  the  same  extent  and  population  in  any 
portion  of  the  known  world.  We  are  neces- 
sarily driven  to  this  conclusion,  when  we 
consider  the  vast  extent  of  its  plains  and  val- 
leys, of  unequalled  fertility  ami  exuberance— 
the  extraordinary  variety  and  abundance  of  its 
productions — its  unheard  of  uniformity  an! 
salubrity  of  climate — in  fint,  its  unexhaustui 
and  inexhaustible  resources,  as  well  as  its  in- 
creasing emigration,  which  is  annually  swell- 
ing its  population,  from  hundreds  to  thou- 
sands, andjifhich  is  destined  at  no  distant  day 
to  revol utilize  the  whole  commercial,  politi- 
cal, and  moral  aspect  of  all  that  highly  im- 
portant anil  delightful  country.  In  a  word,  1 
will  remark  thi.t,  in  my  opinion,  there  is  no 
country  in  the  known  world  possessing  a  soi! 
so  fertile  and  productive,  with  such  varied  ami 
inexhaustible  resources,  and  a  climate  of  sucli 
mildness,  uniformity,  and  salubrity ;  nor  i' 
there  a  country,  in  my  opinion,  now  known, 
whiv;h  is  so  eminently  calculated,  by  nature 
herself,  in  all  respects,  to  promote  the  un- 
bounded happiness  and  prosperity  of  civilized 
and  enlightened  man. — Pp.  131 — 133. 


B 


■^ 
# 


winter.     Ar- 
gngfid  in  the 
t  of  the  fall  or 
n  tlicy  depart 
hides,  tallow, 
cd  diirini^  tlip 
of  the  nicr- 
ide  always  re- 
)  the  coasliiij 
to  the  States. 
)oso  of  renew- 
vcr  1  of  these 
same  houses, 
which  always 
vhile  they  em- 
rting  tl)o  pro- 
,ing  goods  fui 
)f  at  moat,  ox- 
ships  touch  It 
ie  of  o''tiiininir 
•r,  and  also  for 
ihabitantd.  15ft- 
ve  enumerated, 
well  as  various 
lually  touch  at 
y,  not  only  from 
lul  Hussia,  but 
18,  the  Russian 

c  to  form  vfry 
e  to  the  present 
infant  eountry— 
ing  the  newness 
less  of  the  popu- 
and,  if  the  pre- 
i  prelu<lt'  to  the 
,  in  a  very  few 
any  other  coun- 
nilation  in  any 
We  are  neces- 
sion,  when  we 
plains  and  val- 
i\il  exuberance— 
abundance  of  its 
uniformity  ami 
its  unexhausleil 
is  well  as  its  ii- 
annually  swell- 
jndreds  to   thmi- 
at  no  disunt  day 
nimercial,  politi- 
that  highly  ini- 
.     In  a  word,  I 
lion,  there  is  no 
iiissessing  a  soil 
such  varied  anil 
.  climate  of  such 
alubrity  ;    nor  is 
)n,  now  known. 
ilated,  by  nature 
promote  the  un- 
lerity  of  civilized 
31—133. 


FAPtNIIAM  ON  CALIFOHNTA. 


Exlractt  from  "Life  and  Adventurer  in   ('ali/iniia,  and  Scenes  in  the  Pacific  Ocean.     By  Tkoma* 

J.  fanilidm.     Xew  York,  1847." 


The  twenty-fourth  morning  of  April  was 
clear;  the  sun  came  up  the  eastern  hills  on  a 
landscape  of  sweet  things.  No  one  born  and 
dwelling  in  the  rugged,  changing  seasons  of 
the  North,  can  know,  without  experiencing, 
the  delights  of  a  climate  like  that  of  California. 
Fron;  spring  to  tspring  again,  all  is  friendly; 
from  morning  till  morning  comes  again,  all  is 

Eleasant  to  breathe  and  to  see ;  from  hour  to 
our,  the  body  feels  in  the  air  a  balmy 
blessing;  fiom  moment  to  moment,  the 
blood  leaps  vigorously  through  the  frame. — 
P.  94. 
« ,  We  ate  and  dra.-ik  freely.  Who  could  do 
•  otherwise?  The  mellow  laugh  of  childhood, 
the  holy  kindness  of  maternal  care,  the  pride 
i  of  the  paternal  heart,  the  love  of  woman,  the 
sky  and  uagrant  breezes  of  a  California  lawn, 
the  open  sea,  the  giant  wcuuiands,  the  piping 
insects*  the  carolling  of  a  thousand  birds,  the 
voices  of  a  boundless  hospitality,  invited  us  to 
do  i.o.  The  finest  dish  of  all  th"^  goodly  ar- 
•ay  of  fat  things,  the  brunette  lips  excepted, 
was  the  roasted  mussels.  The  Indians  in  at- 
tendance gathered  a  number  of  bushels,  pile-.; 
them  upon  a  large  log-fire,  and  in  a  few  itinutes 
presented  them  to  us,  thoroi-ghly  cooked  and 
delicious  to  the  taste.  Indeed,  I  hope  for  no 
better  fish.  They  are  tender  :.  -  an  oyster, 
with  as  fine  flavour,  and  the  abunduiice  of  them 
is  really  remarkable  !  The  coast  is  lined  with 
them.— P.  97. 

On  the  thirtieth  a  light  breeze  bore  us  early 
in  the  morning  past  San  Miguel.  This  is  nu 
island,  about  fifteen  miles  from  the  coast.  It 
is  ten  miles  in  circumference,  with  a  rocky, 
barren,  and  dry  surface,  marked  here  and  there 
with  a  few  fruitful  spots  and  streams  of  water. 
At  nine  o'clock  we  were  off  Santa  Rosa,  an 
island  about  the  same  distance  from  the  land, 
twenty  miles  in  circumference,  piled  with 
5<<  lofty,  barren  hills,  interspersed  with  a  few- 
forests  a.id  fertile  districts.  Next  came  Santa 
(^ruz,  an  oblong  island,  about  forty  miles  in 
circumference,  with  some  woodlands  and 
fruitful  vales.  Farther  off  shore  and  south- 
ward, are  the  islands  of  Santa  Harbara,  San 
Nicholas,  and  San  Clemente.  They  lie  in  a 
[line  running  south-east  and  north-west,  and 
form  tlie  outer  wall  of  the  roadi>tead,  called 
the  Canal  de  Santa  Barbara.  These  islands 
lave  much  high  land,  composed  of  dark,  shin- 
ing rocks,  a;.pan'ntly  of  volcanic  origin.  They 
ire  partially  covered  with  trees,  but  a  greater 
Kjrtion  of  Uieir  surface  is  barren  sands  and 


rocks.  They  are  densely  populated  with  goats. 
—P.  107. 

'I'he  coast  from  Monterey  to  the  Canal  de 
Santa  Harhar.i  is  broken  into  elevated  hills, 
fringed   with    forests   of  pine  and    oak,  and 
covered  with  the  wild  grasses.     From  these 
flow  many  valuable  little  streams,  which  gur- 
gle and  plash  down  deep  and  verdant  ravines, 
j  to  the  sea.     It  is  a  beautiful  wilderness;  a 
I  'iountry  for  the  wild  horse,  the  mighty  grisly 
j  liear,  the  undomesticated  cattle  of  a  thousand 
(hills;  a  blithe  domain  for  the  human  race, 
I  when  true  and  valiant  men  shall  govern  it. — 
j  P.  108. 

I      There  is  an  old  Catholic  mission  one  mile 

I  and  *hree-(iuarters  above  the  town,  called  El 

j  Mission  de  Santa  Barbara.    The  church  itself 

;  is  a  stone  edifice,  with  two  towers  on  the  end 

towards  the  town,  and  a  high  gable  between 

them.    The  friars  complimented  Father  Time, 

I  by  painting  on  the    latter  something  in  the 

i  shape  of  a  clock  dial.     In  the  towers  are  hung 

a  number  of  rich-toned  bells,  brought  from  old 

Spain  nearly  a  hundred  years  ago.     The  roof 

;  is  covered  with  burnt  clay  tiles,  laid  in  cement. 

The  residence   of  the    Padres,  also  built  of 

\  stone,  forms  a  wing  with  the  church,  towards 

!  t''e  sea.    The  prisons  form  another,  towards 

j  the  highlands.     Hard  by  are  clusters  of  Indian 

I  huts,  constructed  of  adobiesand  tile,  standing 

in  rows,  with  streets  between  tliem. 

The  old  Padres  seem  to  have  united  with 
their  missionary  zeal  a  strong  sense  of  com- 
fort and  taste.  They  laid  off  a  beautiful  gar- 
den, a  few  rods  from  the  church,  surrounded 
it  with  a  high  substantial  fence  of  stone  laid 
in  Roman  cement,  and  planted  it  with  limes, 
almonds,  apricots,  peaches,  apples,  pears, 
(iuince3,&c.,  which  are  now  annually  yielding 
their  several  fruits  in  abundance.  Before  the 
church  they  erected  a  series  of  concentric  urn 
fountains,  um  feet  in  height,  from  the  top  of 
which  the  pure  liquid  bursts,  and  falls  from 
one  to  another,  till  it  reaches  a  large  i  '  il  at 
the  base,  from  this  it  is  led  off  a  shou  dis- 
tance to  tiie  uatue  of  a  grisly  bear,  frc  .  whose 
mouth  it  is  elected  into  a  reservoii  of  solid 
masonry,  six  feet  wide  and  seventy  long. 
From  the  ))uol  at  the  base  of  the  urn  fountains 
water  is  t;iken  for  drinking  and  household  use. 
The  long  reservoir  is  the  theatre  of  the  bat- 
tling, plashing,  laughing,  and  scolding,  of  the 
washing-day.  Around  these  fountains  are 
8oli<l,  cemented,  stone  pavements,  and  ducts 
to  currv  utf  the  burplus  water.     Nothing  of  the 

51 


t 


52 


FARNHAM  ON  CALIFORNIA. 


,   I 


h  .f 


4 


.1  :. 


li 


Kind  can  be  in  better  taste,  more  substantial, 
or  useful. 

Above  the  church  and  its  cloisters,  they 
J  Tought  the  water  around  the  brow  of  a  green 
hill,  in  an  open  stone  aqueduct,  a  rapid,  noisy 
rivulet,  to  a  square  reservoir  of  beautiful  ma- 
sonry. Below,  and  adjoining  this,  are  the 
ruins  of  the  Padres'  grist-mill.  Nothing  is 
ief^t  of  its  interior  structure  but  the  large  oaken 
ridgepole.  Near  tho  aqueduct  which  carries 
the  water  into  the  reservoir  of  the  mills,  stands 
a  small  stone  edifice  ten  feet  in  length  by  six 
in  width.  This  is  the  hath.  Over  the  door, 
outside,  is  the  represcnta''on  of  a  lion's  heaiH, 
from  which  pours  a  beautiful  jet  of  water. 
This  little  structure  is  in  a  good  state  of  pre- 
servation. A  cross  surmounts  it,  as,  indeed, 
it  does  every  thing  used  by  the  Catholic  mis- 
sionaries of  these  wilderness  regions.  Helow 
the  ruins  of  the  grist-mill  is  another  tank  one 
hundred  and  twenty  feet  square,  by  twenty 
deep,  constructed  like  the  one  above.  In  this 
was  collected  water  for  supplying  the  foun- 
tains, irrigating  the  grounds  below,  and  for  the 
propulsion  of  different  kinds  of  machinery. 
Below  the  mission  was  the  tan-yard,  to  which 
the  water  was  carried  in  an  aqueduct,  built  on 
the  top  of  a  stone  wall,  from  friur  to  six  feet 
high.  Here  was  manufactured  the  leather 
used  in  making  harnesses,  saddles,  bridles, 
and  Indian  clothing.  They  cultivated  large 
tracts  of  land  with  maize,  wheat,  oats,  |)eas, 
potatoes,  beans,  and  grapes.  Their  old  vine- 
yards still  cover  the  hill-sides.  When  the 
ir  ssion  was  at  the  height  of  its  prosperity, 
there  were  several  hundred  Indians  labouring 
in  its  fields,  and  many  thousands  of  cattle  and 
horses  grazing  in  its  pastures.  But  its  8[)len- 
dour  has  departed,  and  with  it  its  usefulness. 
The  Indians  who  were  made  comfortable  on 
these  premises,  are  now  squalid  and  miserable. 
The  fields  are  a  waste!  Nothing  but  the 
church  retains  its  ancient  appearance. — Pp. 
1U9,  110. 

The  ujost  interesting  portion  of  I'pper  Cali- 
fornia in  many  respects,  is  the  upper  or  north- 
ern, embracing  the  Bay  of  San  Krancisco,  its  | 
tributJiries,  the  Sacramento,  San  Joa(iuim,nnd 
Jesus  Maria  rivers,  and  the  country  bordering 
on  these  waters. 

The  Rio  San  Joaciiiim  rises  in  a  lake  called 
Buenavista,  situated  in  latitude  'M\°  nortii,  and 
about  three  l.undred  miles  norlii-west  of  the 
mouth  of  the  Colorado,  and  miming  in  a 
north-westerly  course  nearly  six  hundrnl 
miles,  falls  into  tide-waters  at  the  eastern  r\ 
tremity  of  the  Bay  of  San  Fnncisco.  This 
stream  has  a  deep  and  tnini|uil  current.  Its 
waters  are  transparent  and  well-stnekecl  with 
salmon  and  other  fish.  It  is  niiviirnble,  tor 
small  steamboats,  about  two  hundred  and  fifty 
miles.  A  high  range  of  mountviins  on  the 
north-east,  atan  average  distiince  ol'  t'orty  miles 
from  the  river,  bounds  its  valley  in  that  diree- 
tion — and  a  range  of  hills,  rather  low  in  tlu 
north,  hut  becoming  lofty  in  the  south,  boiinds 
it  on  the  west,  for.iiing  a  prairie  vale  six  hun- 
dred   miles  in    length  ;    nowhere    less    than 


in  width.  This  vast  plain  extends,  indeed, 
with  little  interruption,  from  the  Bay  of  San 
Francisco  to  the  Colorado,  gradually  growing 
wider  and  wider,  and  more  uneven  in  its  sur- 
face, till  it  reaches  that  river.  A  space  suffi- 
cient for  an  empire  !  A  very  large  proportion 
of  its  surface  is  open  prairie,  covered  with 
grasses  and  a  species  of  wild  oats.  But  it  is 
so  diversified  by  lines  of  trees  skirting  the 
streams,  by  wooded  spots,  standing  out  like 
islands  on  the  green  plain,  by  arms  of  timber 
stretching  far  down  from  the  mountain  sides, 
and  by  extensive  circular  groves,  connected 
with  larger  forests  by  a  thin  fringe  of  trees — 
that  the  valley  j>resents  tho  appearance  of  a 
vast  series  of  plains  of  every  conceivable  area 
and  shape,  from  the  little  wood-bound  planta- 
tion, to  the  township,  the  county,  and  the 
state.  Over  this  immense  plain  rove  innu- 
merable hands  of  wild  horses,  mules,  elk, 
deer,  grisly  bears,  and  other  animals,  'i'he 
portion  of  the  valley  within  twenty  miles  of 
the  river  is  wholly  uninhabited.  The  Indians 
do  not  feel  disposed  to  live  there,  and  the 
whites  have  plenty  of  room  on  the  coast. 
There  are  large  tracts  of  excellent  tillage  lands 
on  the  banks  of  the  San  Joaqnim,  and  in  the 
valleys  of  several  beautiful  tributaries  coming 
into  It  from  the  eastern  mountains;  particu- 
larly in  that  of  the  Merced.  But,  generally, 
the  valley  of  the  San  Joaquim  will  be  found 
unsuitable  for  cultivation.  Its  soil  is  mani- 
festly of  volcanic  formation,  and  filled  with 
elements  unfriendly  to  vegetation.  On  many 
extensive  tracts  the  muriate  of  soda  covers  the 
ground  like  frost,  and  destroys,  with  equal 
certainty,  every  green  thing;  while  other 
tracts,  larger  still,  abound  in  asphaltum,  which 
renders  the  soil  too  compact  for  tillage.  These 
peculiarities,  however,  attach  only  to  the 
plains.  The  uneven  lands  of  the  great  valley, 
and  of  the  smaller  ones  of  the  tributaries,  and. 
indeed,  all  the  swells,  hills,  and  vales,  that 
lie  about  the  two  ranges  which  bound  the  val- 
ley on  the  east  and  west,  are  sufficiently  freeil 
from  these  destructive  ingredients  by  the  win- 
try rains,  which  wash  them  down  to  the  plaiii> 
hi  l"\v.  The  face  of  the  country  among  thesi 
'.■gill  Hi's  is  very  beautiful,  the  soil  rich  ami 
iuu»\i!y  timberi'd,  and  above  them  rise  tht 
niouiit;iins  hearing  on  their  sides  forests  of  rcil 
cedar  trees,  from  one  to  twelve  feet  in  diaini 
ter,  and  of  proportional  height.  These  grov 
to  the  northward  of  the  latitude  of  San  An 
tonio.  Thence  southward  flourishes  a  specie^ 
of  wliite  pine,  of  larger  girth,  loftier,  and  ei 
finer  grain,  than  can  be  found  in  the  Slater 
But  of  the  central  and  flat  portions  of  the  val 
ley  1  cannot  upeak  so  well.  It  contains,  in- 
deed, every  variety  of  soil — as  tracts  of  loosi 
sand,  hard-pan,  gravel,  rich  loam,  and  pond- 
I  of  salt,  bitter,  and  fresh  water.  Most  of  th' 
[  lakes,  however,  belong  to  the  latter  class,  am 
the  larger  part  of  the  soil  furnishes  pasturagt 
There  are  very  many  swamps  or  marshes  hen- 
I  filled  with  /://r>i,  a  large  rush,  ten  or  twelv' 
,  tiMl  high,  and  fmm  one  to  two  inches  in  <li 
ametiT.  having  ii    bulbous  and  branched  roni 


■«, 


forty,  and  oflin  more  than  one  hundn d  mile^, ,  eight  or  ten  inches  long,  and  six  or  eight  ii' 


tends,  indeed, 
IB  Bay  of  San 
lually  growing 
ven  in  its  sur* 

A  space  snffi- 
irge  propnrlion 

covered  with 
Its.  Rut  it  is 
s  skirting  the 
nding  out  like 
irms  of  timber 
lountnin  sides, 
res,  connected 
nge  of  trees — 
[ipearance  of  a 
)nceivable  area 
-bound  planta- 
)Hnty,  and  the 
tin  rove  innu- 
s,  mules,  elk. 
animals.  'I'he 
lenty  miles  of 
I  The  Indians 
there,  and  the 
on  the  coast. 
>nttilliige  lands 
im,  and  in  the 
utaries  coming 
itains;  particu- 
3ut,  generally, 

will  be  found 
9  soil  is  mani- 
md  filled  with 
on.  On  many 
soda  covers  the 


FARNHAM  ON  CALIFORNIA. 


it 


>^8, 


with 


diameter.  Willows,  bushes,  and  a  few  shrubs 
of  different  species,  grow  over  the  plains.  The 
cotton-wood  is  the  only  large  tree  found  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  river. 

The  climate  of  this  valley  is  its  greatest 
misfortune.  The  wet  season  extends  from  Nu- 
vember  to  March — five  months  of  the  year. 
During  this  period  it  rains  without  cessation 
for  many  days,  and  even  weeks,  and  the  low 
country  being  very  flat,  becomes  a  vast  assem- 
blage of  lakes.  In  the  month  of  April  the  dry 
season  begins,  and,  save  the  heavy  dews,  there 
is  nothing  to  moistiin  tlie  earth  for  seven  long, 
burning  months.  Mr.  Kelly,  an  Ameriean 
gentleman,  of  great  intelligence  and  enterprise, 
who  travelled  over  this  country  at  an  early 
day,  remarks,  that  -'  ir  crossing  the  prairies  in 
latitude  38°  3U'  north,  during  the  month  of 
August,  I  found  that  for  several  successive 
days  the  mercury  ranged  at  110°  (Fahrenheit) 
in  the  shade,  and  sealing-wax,  deposited  in 
pne  of  my  boxes,  was  converted  into  an  almost 
jMmi-fluid  state."  This  intense  heat,  poured 
down  so  many  months  upon  the  submerged 
prairies,  evaporates  the  water  as  the  time  ad- 
vances, and  converts  the  lakes  formed  in  the 
wet  season  into  stagnant  pools  of  putrid  water, 
which  send  out  most  pestilential  exhalations, 
converting  this  immense  valley  into  a  field  of 
death. 

But  this  evil  can  be  remedied.  The  San 
Joaijuim  lies  so  low  as  to  allow  these  lakes  to 
be  drained  into  it.  When,  therefore,  the  coun- 
try shall  be  properly  ditched,  the  waters  will 
not  only  flow  off,  but  will  bear  with  them 
much  of  those  destructive  salts  which  are  now 
deposited  upon  the  soil.  And  thus,  I  believe, 
the  valley  of  the  San  Joaquiin  will  become  the 
abode  of  a  dense  population,  the  |)roducts  of 
whose  industry  will  float  down  the  placid  cur- 
rent of  that  river,  to  the  great  commercial  marts 
of  that  and  other  lands. 

This  valley  is  now  the  great  hunting-ground 
of  the  C'alifornians.  Vast  herds  of  wild  horses 
and  elk  are  met  with  in  all  parts  of  it.  'i'he 
latter  animal,  the  noble  elk,  is  hunted  by  the 
Spaniards  for  his  hide  and  tallow.  These  peo- 
ple go  out  in  large  companies,  with  fleet  horses, 
and  lasso  them  as  they  do  the  bullocks  near 
the  coast.  The  deer  also,  and  anteloiie,  are 
found  here  in  great  numbers,  and  are  killed  for 
the  sami'  purpose.  The  grisly  bear  inhabits 
the  iiiiiuiitiin  sides  and  upper  vales.  These 
are  so  numerous,  fat,  and  large,  that  a  common- 
sized  merchant-ship  might  be  laden  with  oil 
from  the  hunt  of  a  single  season. 

On  the  western  side  of  the  mouth  of  the  San 
Joaquiin,  there  is  a  vast  tract  of  marshy  land, 
and  some  hundreds  of  low  islands  in  the  Up- 
per Bay,  which  are  saturated  by  the  tides. 
riie  usual  ebb  and  flow  at  this  place  is  about 
four  leet— consequently  this  low  surface  is  en- 
riched every  year  by  the  sediment  of  the  ver- 
nal freshets,  and  yields  an  immense  growth 
of  rushes.  These  grounds  would  probably 
make  the  best  rice-fields  in  North  America. 
The  water  of  the  tides  is  either  entirely  fresh 
or  very  slightly  brackish — it  may  easily  be  let 
in  upon  tlie  field  at  flood,  and  drawn  olT  at  ebb. 


These  Tuleras,  as  the  Californians  call  them, 
those  thousand  isles,  and  those  great  rush 
wastes,  will,  it  is  believed,  be  the  only  rice- 
fields  of  any  value  on  the  Pacific  coast  of  the 
continent.  A  noble  and  valuable  vale  is  that 
of  the  San  .loaquim — six  hundred  miles  of 
prairies  covered  with  grass  and  wild  oats,  cut 
by  streams,  shaded  vvitli  lofty  forests!  Prai- 
ries, some  ten,  some  twenty,  others  one  hun- 
dred miles  in  extent,  oveihung  by  jutting  pro- 
montories, crowned  .vith  gigantic  forests,  the 
wild  grains,  grasses,  cattle,  horses,  leaping 
djttr,  the  grisly  bear,  and  the  sUitely  elk,  toss- 
in|f  his  aiith  rs  to  the  breezes,  are  ele  'Cnts  of 
its  present  stUe.  And  we  may  expt.it  when 
the  ox  treads  the  furrow,  and  the  axe  and  th  t 
flail  awaken  their  music  on  the  plains,  that 
the  arable  portions  will  be  reclaimed  and  ren- 
dered fruitful,  while  the  prairies  will  givd 
sustenance  to  immense  herds  of  domestic  ani- 
mals. 

The  Rio  Sacramento  is  much  larger  than 
the  San  Joaquim,  and  its  valley  contains  a 
much  greater  quantity  of  fertile  land.  The 
mouth  of  this  river  is  a  little  north  of  that  of 
the  San  Joaquim.  Indeed,  these  two  streams 
mingle  their  waters  around  a  considerable 
island  which  lies  before  the  mouth  of  each. 
They  both  enter  the  eastern  extremity  of  the 
Bay  of  San  Francisco,  about  seventy  miles 
from  the  Pacific  It  is  two  days'  hard  rowing 
from  the  mouth  of  this  river  to  the  junction  of 
its  two  principal  branches, called  "the forks." 
At  tlie  mouth  the  soil  is  peaty,  and  overflowed 
by  tlie  spring  tides.  As  you  advance  higher, 
where  tlie  tide  has  P'  influence,  Uie  soil  be- 
comes subsUintial,  producing  roses,  arbutus, 
and  other  shrubs,  most  luxuriantly,  as  well  as 
the  wild  oats  and  rye.  These  grains,  resow* 
iiig  themselves  from  year  to  year,  produce  per- 
p(  tual  food  for  the  wild  animals  and  Indians. 
Tliese  plains  are  burned  over  every  year  by 
the  Indians,  and  the  consequence  is,  that  the 
young  trees,  which  would  otherwise  have 
grown  into  forests,  are  destroyed,  an.l  the 
large  trees  often  killed.  Nev<  rtheless,  the 
oak,  the  plane  tree,  of  immens  i\  the  ash, 
of  an  excellen.  'juality,  covered  .vuii  the  wild 
grape  vines,  fringe  the  stream  every.-,  iier'-,  and 
divide  the  country  into  beautiful  glades  and 
savannas,  which,  when  the  leaves  are  fadin;/, 
when  the  grajie  hangs  in  the  greatest  profusion 
on  the  limbs,  and  the  deep  red  flowers  of  au- 
tumn dot  the  grassy  fields,  and  birds  sing 
their  melancholy  hymns  to  the  dying  year, 
give  the  finest  picture  that  the  mind  can  con- 
ceive, of  a  beautiful  wilderness.  The  water 
of  the  Sacramento  is  very  pure.  Its  banks, 
from  the  mouth  to  the  forks,  are  entirely  allu- 
vial, a  deposit  of  sand  and  clay.  The  bottom 
varies  from  a  very  loose  mud,  and  quicksand, 
to  a  stiff  red  clay. 

The  forks  lie  in  latitude  38°  46'  47"  north, 
and  longitude  0°  47'  31"  east  of  Yerba  Buena, 
near  the  entrance  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco. 
The  stream  is  navigable  for  small  craft  to  the 
forks  in  the  dry  season;  in  the  rainy  season, 
and  during  the  early  part  of  the  summer,  steam 
vessels  of  three  hundred  tons  measurement  can 
■  3 


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^«>    ■    11  In*  1.^ — «»« 


FARNHAM  ON  CALIFORNIA. 


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ascend  its  eastern  branch  several  hundred  miles 
farther. 

It  is  difficult  to  convey,  by  means  of  words, 
the  exceeding  beauty  and  excell"'*ce  of  this 
portion  of  the  valley  of  the  Sacnimenio.  To 
one  who  has  seen  it,  all  attempts  to  do  so  must 
appear  tame  and  uninteresting.  I  may  say 
that  the  linear  distance  from  the  mouth  to  the 
forks  is  about  sixty  miles,  and  that  the  river, 
in  making  that  progress,  meanders  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty ;  that  for  the  most  part  of  this 
distance,  within  the  verge  of  the  valley,  grows 
a  belt  of  oak  trees,  about  three  hundred  yanls 
wide,  crowded  with  flowering  vines  and  wdU 
fruits,  and  interspersed  with  the  lofty  plane 
and  other  beautiful  trees,  variegating  the 
scene;  ihat  beyond  this  belt,  on  either  side 
of  the  river,  stand  clumps  of  forests,  over  the 
endless  seas  of  irrass,  that  reach  away  to  the 
distant  mountains;  ur/J  that  there  are  many 
mounds  of  earth  on  these  great  savannas,  built 
unknown  ages  ago,  by  the  Indians,  from  which 
to  gaze  over  these  surpassing  regions,  and  to 
view  in  safety  the  rush  of  the  spring-floods, 
covering  the  country  far  and  near.  And  should 
I  continue  the  attempt  to  lead  the  reader  on, 
despite  the  certainty  tliat  he  will  not  gain 
thereby  the  conception  of  it  which  I  desire  to 
convey  to  him,  1  might  state  that  it  is  an  open 
champain  coimry,  cut  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river  by  numerous  beautiful  tributaries,  skirted 
with  timber,  and  on  tbe  west  dotted  and  striped 
with  groves  and  lakes,  and  that  tins  is  one  of 
the  richest  grazing  and  agricultural  districts 
of  the  Californias.  During  the  rainy  season, 
the  river  rises  from  eighteen  to  twenty-four 
feet,  and,  overflowing  immense  tracts  of  prai- 
ries, produces  a  succession  of  beautiful  lakes, 
through  which  its  floods  rush  towards  the 
Gulf  l''rom  the  upper  country  are  thus  brought 
down  great  quantities  of  rich  loam,  which  are 
deposited  upon  the  lower  plains,  rendering 
them  as  productive  and  beautiful  as  the  banks 
of  the  Nile.  From  ten  »"  thirty  miles  dis- 
tance from  the  river,  me  land  begins  to  rise 
rapidly,  the  open  vales  creep  up  into  the 
heights  among  brooks  and  forests,  till  lost  in 
the  wilderness  of  white,  red,  and  yellow  pine, 
and  live  and  white  oak,  whose  gigantic  trunks 
stud  the  mountains  to  the  regions  of  perpetual 
frost. 

These  branches  of  the  Sacramento  are  strong 
dashing  mountain  streams.  The  eastern  one 
rises  among  the  Sierras  Nevadas,  or  snowy 
mountain  range,  about  thrae  hundred  miles 
east  of  Cape  Mendocino,  and  has  a  south- 
westerly, tortuous  eourse  of  nearly  seven  hun- 
dred miles  to  the  forks.  This  is  the  largest 
branch  of  the  Sacramento.  It  is  navigable  for 
small  craft,  as  before obser^•ed,  several  hundred 
miles  during  the  wet  season,  and  will  be  very 
useful  in  floating  down  the  valuable  timber  of 
its  vales,  and  of  the  mountain  sides,  to  less 
woody  regions  around  the  bay.  A  beautiful 
chain  of  open  plains,  with  a  rich  soil,  watered 
by  numerous  streams  and  rivulets,  and  skirted 
by  the  finest  forests,  extends  the  distance  of 
seventy  or  eighty  miles  np  this  branch.  At 
this  point,  in  latitude  3'J^  35'  north,  are  the 


first  rapida.  Here  the  traveller  to  and  from 
Oregon  fords  the  river  in  the  dry  season.  The 
stream  is  here  about  one  hundred  and  twenty 
yards  wide,  with  four  feet  of  water  in  the 
channel,  and  a  swift  current.  In  the  winter 
and  spring,  the  depth  of  water  at  this  ford  is 
ten  or  fifteen  feet. 

At  this  place  commences  the  southerly  slope 
of  the  Snowy  Mountains,  and  the  whole  as- 
pect and  character  of  the  country  becomes 
still  more  beautiful  and  valuable.  The  soil  on 
the  hills  is  admirably  adapted  to  the  growth 
of  forest  trees,  and  the  prairies  wind  among 
the  wooded  elevations,  and  along  the  banks 
of  delightful  streams,  clothed  with  the  richest 
and  most  varied  abundance  of  vegetable  pro- 
ductions, crowned  with  countless  blossoms, 
and  sending  out  on  the  air  the  most  grateful 
perfumes.  And  these  plains  and  wooded  hills 
reach  to  the  Snowy  Mountains,  where,  in  lati- 
tude 40°,  there  is  an  easy  passage  to  the  val- 
ley of  Smith  River.  This  portion  of  these 
mountains,  lying  on  the  track  of  our  descrip- 
tion, df  iprves  especial  notice. 

A  '  ;-jr  of  rugged  hills  puts  off  here  from  it, 
and  runs  down  southwardly  between  these 
principal  branches  of  the  Sacramento  to  its 
forks.  These  heights  are  manifestly  of  vol- 
canic origin,  and  Sir.  Kelly  suggests,  "  that, 
as  they  abound  in  basaltic  and  vitrified  stones, 
scoria',  &c.,  they  he  called  the  volcanic  range." 
Along  their  base  stretches  a  beautiful  chain  of 
prairies,  tor  seventy  or  eighty  miles,  watered 
by  numerous  rivulets.  In  this  volcanic  ridge, 
1  found  a  stratum  of  earth  which  the  Mexicans 
call  tepelate,  and  which  forms  a  cement,  when 
covered  by  water,  or  buried  so  far  below  the 
earth  as  to  retain  moisture.  It  is  so  soft  as  to 
be  easily  penetrated  by  an  iron  bar,  but  it  bo- 
comes  as  solid  and  impenetrable  as  a  rock,  on 
being  exposed  to  the  sun  or  wind.  The  ge- 
neral aspect  of  this  range  is  rude  and  black. 
The  minor  hills  are  covered  with  dark-coloured 
iron-stones  of  all  shapes,  with  sharp  edges 
resembling  clinkers  in  the  arches  of  a  brick- 
kiln, and  with  reddish  clay  and  gravel,  appear- 
ing like  pulverized  brick.  It  is  the  work  of 
volcanic  fires,  and  may  properly  bear  the  name 
which  our  worthy  countryman  has  given  it. 

The  western  main  branch  of  the  Sacramento 
is  nearly  equal  in  size  to  the  eastern.  It  dis- 
charges nearly  as  much  water,  but  gathers  it 
from  less  spare.  It  rises  among  a  lofty  cluster 
of  the  Snowy  Mountains,  about  thirty  miles 
from  the  sea,  and  running  in  a  south-by-east- 
erly direetion  iiliout  two  hundred  miles,  meets 
the  other  branrh  at  the  t  rks,  with  a  generous 
flood  of  beautitiil  waters.  The  tributaries  of 
this  are  not  so  large  or  mnuerous  as  those  of 
the  eastern  branch,  and  the  same  may  be  said 
of  the  prairies  that  border  it,  but  they  are 
quite  as  charming.  They  stretch  alonir  by  tlic 
rushing  waters,  among  the  heights,  loaded  with 
evergreen  forests,  like  fairy  paths  of  olden 
files — rich,  rich,  glorious  to  behold — beauty 
reposing  in  the  lap  of  the  giant  mountains,  to 
whom  the  soundmg  streams  give  music,  to 
whom  the  aiountain-dews  give  jewels,  id  tin 
wild-flowers  incense.     \Vere  1  to  be  exiled 


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FARNHAM  ON  CALIFORNIA. 


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r  to  and  from 
season.  The 
id  and  twenty 
water  in  the 
In  the  winter 
at  this  ford  is 

outherly  slope 

the  whole  as- 

ntry  becomes 

The  soil  on 

0  the  growth 
wind  among 

ng  the  banks 
ith  the  richest 
vegetable  pro- 
ess  blossoms, 
most  grateful 

1  wooded  hills 
where,  in  lati- 
ge  to  the  val- 
tion  of  these 
'  our  descrip- 

fhere  from  it, 
etween  these 
imento  to  its 
ifestly  of  vol- 
[gests,  "that, 
trifled  stones, 
canic  range." 
itiful  chain  uf 
liles,  watered 
olcanic  ridge, 
the  Mexicans 
;ement,  when 
far  below  the 
i  so  soft  as  to 
lar,  but  it  bo- 
as a  rock,  on 
id.  The  ge- 
e  and  black. 
Jark-coloured 
sharp  edges 
s  of  a  brick- 
ravel,  appear- 
the  work  of 
lear  the  name 
IS  given  it. 
e  Sacramento 
•em.  It  dis- 
lut  gathers  it 
I  lofty  cluster 
thirty  miles 
outh-by-east- 
miles,  meets 
:h  a  generous 
tributaries  of 
I  as  those  of 
may  be  said 
l)ut  they  are 
alonff  by  the 
I,  loaded  with 
llis  of  olden 
)old — beauty 
iiountains,  to 
ve  nmsic,  to 
kvels,  ud  til'' 
to  be  exiled 


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from  human  kind — ^and  cast  off  from  the  sight 
of  wc  man,  wife,  and  child — and  deprived  of 
the  deep  pulsations  of  joy  which  cluster 
around  the  holy  altar  uf  home,  that  old  Saxon 
citadel  of  the  virtues,  1  would  pray  for  a  cave 
in  these  heights,  and  among  those  streamy 
Tales. 

The  timber  trees  on  this  part  of  the  southern 
slope,  as  fir  northward  as  40'',  are  worthy  of 
notice.  The  white  pine  is  very  abundant,  and 
of  a  largo  gruwlh.  Several  kinds  of  oak  are 
also  plentiful,  the  niosjt  common  of  which  is 
the  encina  b.'ancn,  white  oak.  Its  average 
height  is  forty  feet,  its  trunk  six  or  eiglit  feet 
in  girth,  with  a  profusion  of  branches,  which 
grow  together  with  the  compactness  of  a 
Hedge,  and  in  perfect  symmetry  of  form,  like 
the  rounded  tops  of  an  apple  orchard.  The 
live  oak — quercus  virtm — is  very  abundant, 
and  grows  only  on  the  highlands.  Its  diame- 
ter is  usually  from  three  to  four  feet — its  alti- 
tude sixty  or  seventy.  This  timber  is  equal 
to  any  of  the  kind  in  the  world,  in  solidity, 
strength,  and  durability. 

But  the  noblest  specimen  of  this  tree  found 
in  the  territory  of  the  Sacramento,  is  the  white 
oak  proper,  the  qmrcus  navalis.  It  grows  on 
the  river  banks,  and  the  low  hills  of  the  prai- 
ritd.  A  fine  tree  it  is,  not  only  on  account  of 
its  excellent  qualities  as  timber,  but  for  its 
lordly  trunk,  which  one  might  almost  say  pre- 
served a  uniform  diameter  its  whole  length. 
And  the  actual  fact  is,  that  it  notunfrequently 
attains  a  girth  of  fil'tecn  feet  at  ten  or  fifteen 
feet  from  the  root,  and  the  branches  possess 
corresponding  dimensions,  and  extend  a  pro- 
digious disUtnco  horizontally  from  the  stem.* 

The  Jesus  iMaria  River  is  a  small  stream 
which  rises  at  the  distance  of  twenty  miles 
from  the  ocean,  among  that  part  of  the  Snowy 
Mountains  immediately  south-west  of  Cape 
Mendocino.  Its  head-springs  are  among  the 
perpetual  snows  of  those  highlands,  and,  flow- 
ing about  three  hundred  miles,  over  precipices, 
and  througii  prairies,  it  falls  into  the  north- 
west part  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco.  This 
stream,  in  its  upper  course,  runs  among  barren 
rocks  till  its  rivulets  gather  into  a  current  of 
some  magnitude,  when  it  enters  a  forest  re- 
gion of  pines,  cedars,  and  other  terebinthine 
trees,  and  lower  down  is  bordered  by  oaks  of 
variius  species,  chestnut,  hickory,  walnut, 
oak,  and  plane  trees. 

This  region,  embracing  the  wide  tract  be- 
tween the  Sacramento  alley  and  the  sea,  and 
between  the  Bay  of  oan  Francisco  and  the 
Snowy  Mountains,  is  not  less  desirable  than 
tlie  country  on  the  Sacramento.  It  is,  how- 
ever, very  diflerent.  Instead  of  six  or  seven 
hundred  miles  of  continuous  plains  and  forests, 
with  mighty  streams  coursing  down  to  a  com- 
mon outlet,  it  is  a  country  of  hills  and  plains, 
rising  one  above  another,  norihwanlly,  from 
the  sweet  prairies  at  the  bay  to  the  bare  and 
lofty  mountains  in  latitude  40°  north.  The 
portion  in  the  vicinity  of  the  hay,  forty  miles 
square,  is  chiefly  prairie,  broken  by  lines  of 


forest  and  woody  ridges ;  the  next  forty  miles 
northward,  and  of  a  like  width,  consists  prin« 
cipally  of  extensive  plains  covered  with  va- 
rious kinds  of  timber,  and  high  precipitous 
hills,  clad  with  forests  of  white  pines,  whose 
trunks  vary  from  nine  to  fifty  feet  in  circum- 
ference, and  from  one  to  nearly  three  hundred 
feet  in  height,  hanging  over  little  flowering 
prairies,  among  the  groves  on  the  low  lands; 
noble  columns  of  nature's  architecture,  sup- 
porting cone-formed  capiuils  of  growing,  liv- 
ing green !  A  land  of  the  wildest  enchant- 
ment!  The  hooting  owl  and  the  cuckoo  are 
tkfffe.  at  midnight,  and  the  little  birds  twitter 
to  the  babbling  rivulets  of  the  vales.  Far 
reaching  away  to  the  north  are  piled  the  naked 
cold  summits  of  the  Snowy  rdge.  This  is  a 
vast  slope  of  excellent  land,  w  licli  will,  when 
subdued,  equal  any  other  in  the  world.  The 
great  Day  of  San  Francisco  on  the  south,  and 
the  Bay  of  Bodega  and  the  ocean  on  the  west, 
give  it  a  position  as  a  farming  and  commer- 
cial district,  which  is  scarcely  surpassed  by 
the  valley  of  the  Klamet,  or  of  the  San  Joa- 
quim  and  Sacramento. 

Stretching  across  the  north  of  these  splendid 
regions  are  the  Snowy  Mountains.  This 
range  of  highlands  I'orms  a  natural  boundary 
between  the  Californias  and  Oregon.  But 
the  ignorance  of  our  negotiators  with  Spain, 
or  their  criminal  negl.ect  of  duty,  gave  us  the 
parallel  of  4'2^  north,  instead  of  this  noble  bar- 
rier of  crairgy  ice  and  snow.  Consequently, 
the  CaiiCurnias  extend  beyond  these  moun- 
tains, and  embrace  the  valley  wliicli  lies  be- 
tween the  Snowy  raiiije  and  a  spur  of  the 
President's  range,  which  puts  out  westward 
from  Mount  J.  Q.  Adams,  in  latitude  42°  IC. 
The  average  height  of  these  hills  is  about  2700 
feet  above  the  sea.  This  vale  is  about  fifty 
miles  wide,  and  one  hundred  in  length.  The 
Klamet  River  waters  it.  This  stream  has  two 
principal  sources — the  one  among  the  snows 
of  Mount  Monroe,  in  latitude  43°  20',  and 
about  one  Itundred  miles  from  the  sea;  the 
other  in  a  beautiful  mountain-lake,  with  a  sur- 
face of  about  two  hundred  square  miles,  lying 
further  south.  Both  these  branches  are  furj- 
ous  mountain  torrents,  tumbling  down  lofty 
acclivities,  into  little  valleys,  where  they  run 
a  few  miles  with  a  comparatively  peaceful 
current,  and  then  dash  and  roar  again  over  an- 
other precipice,  and  so  continue  till  they  reach 
their  confluence.  Thence  the  Klamet  moves 
on  with  a  heavy,  whirling  flood,  until  withia 
thirty  miles  of  the  sea,  where  it  breaks  tumul- 
tuously  through  a  range  of  high  hills,  and 
meets  tide-water,  and  thence  jjroceeds  in  a 
north-westerly  direction  to  the  ocean.  The 
aspect  of  the  country  lying  on  this  stream  is 
singularly  charming.  The  mountain  sides  on 
the  south  rise  gradually,  and  on  one-third  of 
their  elevation  are  clothed  with  forests  of  pine, 
cedar,  and  otlier  evergreens.  The  overtopping 
peaks  shine  with  drifting  snows.  The  high- 
lands on  the  north  are  generally  covered  by 
trees,  with  rugged  crags  beetling  out  over 
their  tops ;  and,  at  intervals,  conical  peaks 
arise,  in  some  instancu^  in  clusters,  and  in 


ii 


56 


FARNHAM  ON  CALIFORNIA. 


J"  '     ■   k 


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others  in  solitary  magnificence,  over  the  lower 
hills.  These  peaks  are  frequently  very  beau- 
tiful. Their  term  is  that  of  the  frustum  of  a 
cone ;  around  their  bases  are  green  forests ;  on 
their  sides  hang  the  dwarf  cedar  tree,  pendant 
in  the  air ;  on  their  very  top,  in  the  cold  sea- 
son, is  a  cap  of  snow;  and  down  their  steep 
sides  murmur  little  brooks.  Tho  largest  of 
these  peaks  lie,  however,  to  t'le  eastward,  in 
the  President's  range.  The  .nost  conspicuous 
of  these  is  Mount  Jackson,  in  latitude  41°  40' 
north.  This  is  the  iiighest  elevation  in  the 
range  to  which  it  belongs,  rising  nearly  J  7,000 
feet  above  the  ocean,  in  great  abriiptnew, 
grandeur,  and  beauty  of  outline,  lis  base 
rests  among  deep,  evergreen  woods,  and  it 
is  girdled  higher  up  with  shrubs  and  hardy 
plants,  to  the  region  of  frosts,  and  there  com- 
mence the  sheeting  snows  which  spread  wide 
and  high  its  vast  head  with  the  desolation  of 
eternal  cold.  The  pathway  between  Oregon 
and  the  Californias  passes  near  it. 

The  valley  itself  is  a  rolling,  irregular,  in- 
clined plane,  broken  by  forests  and  isolated 
hills.  The  latter  spring  oftentimes  in  the 
midst  of  the  prairies,  like  immense  haystacks, 
several  hundred  feet  high,  some  in  clusters, 
and  others  solitary.  These  sometimes  occur 
in  the  forests,  and,  in  such  cases,  they  are 
often  castellated  with  basaltic  rocks,  present- 
ing the  appearance  of  ruined  castles.  The 
trees  of  the  Klamet  Valley  consist  principally 
of  the  same  various  species  of  the  oak  which 
grow  on  the  other  side  of  the  Snowy  ridge. 
There  is  one  tree  here  also  in  great  abundance, 
which  does  not  prevail  rn  any  other  part  of 
the  north-west  coast,  a  species  of  mi/rius,  the 
largest  of  which  measure  twelve  ftet  in  girth 
and  one  hundred  feet  in  height.  All  its  leaves, 
wood,  and  fruit,  are  strongly  aromatic,  yield- 
ing an  odor  like  myrtus  pimenln,"  and  pro- 
ducing sneezing,  like  pepper.  The  I'ruit  is 
large,  globular,  and  covered  with  a  fine  green 
skin,  enveloping  a  small  nut  with  an  insipid 
kernel,  which  the  squirrel  eatstvith  a  great 
relish.  So  fragrant  is  this  tree,  that  when  the 
groves  are  moved  by  the  wind,  a  delicious  per- 
fume fillo  all  the  surrounding  air. 

The  soil  on  the  open  plains  of  this  delight- 
ful vale  is  very  rich  ;  and,  since  the  climate  is 
most  salubrious,  as  well  as  most  favourable  to 
vegetation,  this  valley  will  hereafter  become 
one  of  the  most  enchanting  abodes  of  man. 
Indeed,  it  would  be  difficult  to  decide  whether 
to  prefer  this  or  the  vales  on  the  south  side  of 
the  Snowy  Mountains,  were  it  not  for  that  un- 
rivalled Bay  of  San  Francisco,  which  con- 
nects the  land,  whose  streams  flow  into  it, 
with  the  commerce  of  the  world,  more  largely 
and  intimately  than  the  Klamet  can  do.  In 
fact,  this  river  is  both  too  rapid  and  too  small 
for  ship  navigation,  and  the  depth  of  tho  water 
on  the  bar  at  its  mouth  being  only  two  and  a 
half  fathoms,  it  will,  of  course,  never  furnish 
a  harbour  suitiiblo  for  extensive  maritime  trade. 
But  it  is  a  sweet  valley  for  the  growth  of  a 
happy  and  enlightened  population;  a  lovely 


•  Dou^loi. 


spot,  where  the  farm-house,  that  temple  of  the 

virtues,  may  lift  its  rude  chimney  among  the 

myrrh  trees;  where  the  wife,  fnitblul  in  her 

love  to  her  husband,  and  true  to  all  the  holy 

instincts  of  the  mother,  shall  o(\\;t  her  pure 

heart's   undivided    devotii>n    at    the  altar   of 

Home  !  Home  !  that  only  rt  luge  of  man  from 

i  the  toils  and  pains  of  the  outer  world;  that 

'  sanctuary,  the  desecration  of  wiiieh  turns  his 

I  heart  to  flint,  and  his  afTeetions  into  fountiiins 

of  gall. 

The  valley  of  the  Klamet  will  be  lighted 
I  from  the  hearths  of  happy  homes  ere  long,  and 
t  will  be  densely  peopled.  Sixty  miles  square 
'.  of  productive  soil,  surroundecl  with  every 
beauty  of  mountjiin  and  forest,  sprinkled  with 
sweet  groves,  and  threaded  with  streams  of 
I  pure  water,  all  under  a  genial  clininte,  render 
,  It  a  magnilicent  site  for  the  dwellings  of  man. 
,  As  we  pass  southward  in  our  geographical 
'  view  of  the  Californias,  we  find  remaining  to 
j  be  described,  that  belt  of  country  extending 
I  from  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  in  latitude 
I  37°  north,  to  the  port  of  San  Diego,  in  latitude 
32°  north,  and  hounded  east  by  the  marine 
j  range  of  mountains,  and  west  by  the  ocean. 
!  It  is  three  hundred  and  fifty  miles  long,  and 
I  from  fifteen  to  forty  miles  wide. 

The  general  aspect  of  this  region  is  that  of 
:  an  open  country,  varied  by  patches  of  trees  of 
I  noble  growth,  and  with    lines  of  the   same 
along  tho  streams.    The  northern  half  of  it 
consists  of  rolling,  alluvial   plains,  without 
rock  or  stone,  traversed  by  low  mountains  of 
porphyry,  basalt,  and  jasper,  partially  covered 
with  pine,  cedar,  and  oak  forests.     The  plains 
between  these  highlands  are  well  watered,  and 
of  a  rich,  onduriug  soil.     The  southern  half 
;  of  the  region  is  somewhat  more  broken  by  the 
•  mountains,  and  is  not  so  well  supplied  with 
I  trees  and  streams.     Hut  there  are  many  very 
i  large  tracts  of  rich  plains,  covered  by  forests 
'  of  live  oak  and  other  valuable  trees,  and  nu- 
merous broad  prairies,  with  a  pliable  and  in- 
exhaustible soil.     Perhaps  I  ought  to  say  that 
this  is,  indeed,  the  most  valuable  part  of  the 
Californias;  and  true  it  is,  that  this  belt  of 
country,   lying    between    the    latitudes   thus 
named,  is  the  crowning  glory  of  Upper  Cali- 
fornia, as  will  appear  on  coming  pages. 

For  the  space  of  seventy-five  miles  north- 
ward from  the  Cape  of  San  Lucas;  the  air  is 
moistened  by  the  vapours  of  tiie  sea,  and  the 
exhalations  from  many  parts  of  the  ground. 
The  earth  is  watered  by  numerous  little  cur- 
rents running  among  the  hills,  and  clothed 
with  tropical   vegetation.     From  this  point, 
seventy-nvc  miles  north  of  the  Capo,  to  the 
latitude  of  Loretto,  are  high,  craggy  moun- 
tains, and  a  barren  soil,  the  mere  cinders  of 
volcanic  action.     On  account  of  the  increased 
I  distance  of  the  interior  from  tho  sea  and  the 
gulf,  and  the  absence  of  streams  of  water,  the 
;  heat  is  excessive — as  great'  as  in  Arabia,  or 
i  Sahara.     A  few  sunken  vales,  separated  from 
one  another  and  tho  world  by  vii^t  tracts  of 
'  burnt  heights,  enjoy  the  cooling  infiuonces  of 
shady  trees  and  s|)rings  of  water.     And  along 
]  the  coast,  the  sea-breezes,  and    some  small 


pif 


FARNHAM  ON  CALIFORNIA. 


57 


fit  temple  of  the 
npy  among  the 

fiiilhl'iil  in  her 
tu  all  the  holy 

cffur  her  pure 
t  the  allar  of 
je  of  mini  from 
ter  world ;  thnt 
I'liich  turns  his 
I  into  fountains 

^ill  be  lighted 
'8  ere  hng,  and 
ty  niilt's  square 
if    with    every 

sprinkled  with 
ith  streams  of 
clininte,  render 
ellingsof  man. 
ir  geographical 
d  remaining  to 
ntry  extending 
CO,  in  latitude 
lego,  in  latitude 

by  the  marine 
;  by  the  ocean, 
lilea  long,  and 

!gion  is  that  of 
Jlies  of  trees  of 

I  of  the  same 
lern  half  of  it 
)1ains,  without 
r  mountains  of 
irtially  covered 
8.     The  plains 

II  watered,  and 
southern  half 

!  broken  by  the 
supplied  with 
are  many  very 
?red  by  forests 
trees,  and  nu- 
)liable  and  in- 
ght  to  say  that 
)le  part  of  the 
It  this  belt  of 
latitudes  thus 
f  Upper  Cali- 

pages. 
3  miles  north- 
icasj  the  air  is 
H  sea,  and  the 
if  the  ground, 
ous  little  cur- 
j,  and  clothed 
im  this  point, 
;  Cap'.;,  to  the 
craggy  moun- 
ere  cinders  of 
f  the  increased 
10  sea  and  the 
i  of  water,  the 

in  Arabia,  or 

separated  from 

v.iHt  tracts  of 

r  itifliicnccs  of 

And  along 

J   some  small 


streams,  bursting  from  the  barren  mountains, 
give  some  humidity  to  the  atmosphere  in 
several  jilaces,  and  scent  it  with  vegetiition. 
But  these  are  only  unimportant  qualifying  cir- 
cumstances to  the  general  fact,  that  the  sun 
heats  that  lofty  belt  so  fiercely  that  vegetation 
refuses  to  grow,  and  water  to  run,  it  in  so  soon 
Bwallowed  by  the  thirsty  earth  or  evaporated 
by  the  purrlK  li  air.  From  the  latitude  of  Lo- 
retto  to  the  latitude  of  San  Diego,  33°  north, 
the  air  hfcomi's  milder.  In  the  mountains, 
although  llicy  are  not  so  high  and  rugged  as 
those  farther  south,  the  temperature  is  some- 
times 80  low  111  winter  as  to  produce  frost; 
and  on  the  co;ist  there  is  an  increase  of  hu- 
midity, notwwi)  the  mouth  of  the  Colorado 
and  the  Piicific,  there  is  a  region  of  very  de- 
lightful cliiiiiite.  The  mountiins  increase  in 
height,  and   among  them  are  many  beautiful 

Elains,  watered  with  abundant  springs  and 
rooks,  and  interspersed  with  many  pleasant 
woodlands,  which  together  render  the  air 
charmingly  temperate. 

In  the  country  between  the  Gila  and  the 
Colorado,  there  is  a  great  variety  of  tempera- 
ture. From  the  junction  of  the  two  rivers, 
for  the  distance  of  two  hundred  miles  up  the 
Colorado,  and  about  one  hundred  up  the  Gila, 
the  climate  is  exceedingly  hot  in  summer,  and 
in  winter  r.ither  frosty.  The  generally  sandy 
and  barren  soil,  and  a  vertical  sun,  produce 
the  one,  arid  the  contiguity  of  frozen  moun- 
tains the  other.  The  valley  of  the  great  Salt 
Lake  is  very  hot  and  dry.  Some  few  small 
streams,  and  the  partially  fertile  tracts  lying 
on  their  banks,  and  the  neighbourhood  ot  the 
Snowy  Mountains,  and  the  vegetjition  at  their 
bases  in  tb(;  south-west,  modify  this  descrip- 
tion somewhat;  but,  generally,  this  great  ba- 
sin of  former  volcanic  fires  has  a  dry  and  sul- 
try climate. 

The  vall.'y  of  the  San  Joaquim  and  its  ex- 
tension toward  the  head  of  the  Gulf  of  Cali- 
fornia is  exceedingly  hot  and  sultry.  The 
marine  range  on  the  west  effectually  prevents 
the  sia-breezes  from  reaching  it ;  ana  if  any 
other  winds  are  active,  the  monotonous  level 
of  the  northern  portion,  the  short,  sharp  sand- 
hills of  the  southern,  and  the  long  lines  of 
wood  which  encircle  the  prairies,  and  fringe 
the  streams,  prevent  their  circulation,  and  pro- 
duce there,  in  a  high  northern  latitude,  all  the 
heat  and  consequent  discomforts  of  the  torrid 
zone. 

The  climate  of  the  valley  of  the  Sacramento 
is  exceedingly  various.  Near  the  mouth  of 
that  stream,  and  northward  eighty  miles,  to 
the  forks,  the  heat  of  the  summer  sun  is  in- 
tense, but  is  much  modified  f)y  occasional 
showers,  and  the  humid  breezes  from  the  Bay 
of  San  Francisco.  Higher  up,  among  the 
narrow  prairies,  along  the  banks  of  both  forks 
and  their  tributaries,  the  dashing  of  cascades, 
the  shading  influences  of  lof\y  and  wooded 
mountjiins,  and  the  rich  carpeting  of  a  luxuriant 
vegeUUion,  produce  a  temperature,  than  which 
B  more  desirable  cannot  be  found  in  any  coun- 
try. An  incomnarably  fine  soil,  nestled  in 
long  and  delicately  curved  lines  among  sccne- 
H 


ry  of  the  wildest  mountain  cast,  with  water 
from  the  overlooking  snows  and  glaciers,  and 
fanned  by  air  which  can  claim  kindred  with 
that  of  Italy,  or  Greece,  is  a  collection  of  ex- 
cellences which  are  found,  I  believe,  on  that 
spot  alone  in  North  America.  The  climate 
of  the  territory  lying  between  that  just  de- 
scribed and  the  sea,  and  for  forty  miles  around 
the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  is  equally  fine, 
witii  the  exception  that  heavy  fogs  press  up 
from  the  Hay  and  the  Pacific,  during  a  portion 
of  the  summer  months.  But  this  is  to  be 
deemed  rather  a  good  than  an  evil — for  moist- 
ure is  thereby  distilled  over  the  lliirsty  ground, 
during  the  dry  season,  and  the  breezes  which 
bear  it  over  the  land  come  freighted  with  the 
cooler  atmosphere  of  the  sea,  to  temper  the 
air,  and  render  it  more  healthful  and  agree- 
able. 

The  climate  of  that  portion  of  the  Califor- 
nias  which  lies  between  the  marine  range  and 
the  sea,  has  called  forth  expressions  of  admi- 
ration from  every  traveller  in  the  country  since 
it  was  discovered.  But  in  order  to  give  a 
clear  idea  of  it,  we  will  speak  of  it  in  detail. 
The  intense  heat  of  summer  begins  in  the 
month  of  .lune,  when  every  leaf  of  herbage 
south  of  Mi..;?erey  is  dried  to  a  cinder.  The 
fogs  generally  moisten  the  coast  to  the  north, 
and  keep  it  green. 

On  the  coast  south  of  Monterey,  the  ther- 
mometer sometimes  rises  to  108°  or  110° 
Fahrenheit,  in  still  summer  weath(;r;  .but 
usually  the  sea-breezes  keep  it  down  to  70° 
and  75°.  North  of  Monterey,  the  fogs  al- 
ways accompany  the  hottest  weather,  and 
modify  its  temperature. 

Some  faw  points  on  this  coasi  are  "isited 
oy  disagreeable  sea-winds.  IJut  these  places 
are  small  and  few  in  number.  .\nd  yet  this 
is  doubtless  as  fine  a  climate  as  can  be  found. 
No  causes  of  disease  exist  here. 

The  agriculture  of  Upper  California  is  as 
yet  confined  to  the  region  lying  between  the 
marine  range  and  the  sea,  and  is  chiefly  car- 
ried on  by  the  converted  Indians  at  the  Mis- 
sions. And  when  we  inform  the  reader  that 
the  mode  of  cultivation  has  not  changed  since 
the  first  settlement  of  the  country,  its  rude  and 
unskilful  character  will  be  easily  understood. 
A  few  statements,  however,  may  make  it  more 
manifest.  When  a  field  is  brought  under  the 
plough,  it  is  planted  with  the  same  crop,  as 
oats,  or  wheat,  &c.,  until  it  is  exhausted,  and 
then  permitted  to  lie  waste,  until  it  acquires 
the  power  to  produce  the  same  crop  again. 
Alternation  of  crops  is  deemed  a  heresy  al- 
ways to  be  avoided. 

"i  he  grains  raised  in  the  Califomias  are, 
mtize,  (Indian  corn,)  oats,  wheat,  and  bar- 
1(  y.  Peas,  and  a  small  bean  called  frixole, 
ere  also  cultivated.  Maize  is  the  staple  bread 
corn  of  the  country.  It  is  cultivated  in  drills, 
and,  even  with  the  little  skill  used  in  raising 
it,  produces  abundantly.  Wheat  is  sown 
broadcast,  as  with  us;  and,  strange  to  tell, 
such  is  the  loose  a'vJ  rich  quality  of  ihe  soil, 
that  the  seed  which  falls  at  the  hai  vesting  of 
the  first  ciop,  yields,  without  the  aid  of  plough 


' 


I 


il 


FARNHAM  ON  CALIFORNIA. 


is  Pi' 

hi 


■n 


or  Harrow,  two-thirds  of  a  crop  tlin  second  sea- 
son, and  half  a  crop  the  third.  My  friend  Dr. 
Marsh,  a  resident  on  the  banks  of  the  Hio 
Sacramento,  and  intimately  acquainted  with 
the  ("alifornias  for  the  last  fifteen  ye^rs,  writes 
the  author  thus  :  "The  southern  parts  of  Up- 
per California  are  generally  too  dry  and  warm 
for  the  successful  cultivation  of  wheat ;  tole- 
rable crops,  however,  are  raised.  Hut  from 
Monterey  northward,  and  particularly  in  the 
vicinity  of  San  I'r.incisco's  Hay,  most  extraor- 
dinary crops  are  raised  with  very  negligent 
cultivation.  It  is  not  uncommon  to  make 
two,  three,  and  oven  five  crops  from  only  once 
sowing.  The  average  annual  yield  is  from 
thirty  to  fifty  bushels  from  one  of  seed  sown. 
In  one  particular  instance,  in  which  sometliing 
more  than  ordinary  care  was  used,  and  of 
wliicii  I  was  an  eye-witness,  from  ten  bushels 
sown,  three  thousand  six  hundred  anil  fifty- 
two  bushels  were  harvested."  Barley  and 
oats,  the  latter  more  especially,  since  their  in- 
troduction, have  spread  very  widely  over  the 
plains,  and  are  now  seen  everywhere  growing 
without  culture  most  luxuriantly,  and  in  im- 
mense tracts.  Maize  returns  about  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  fold.  In  Lower  California, 
these  grains  can  l)e  raised  only  in  lociiiities 
which  can  be  irrigated.  In  18.3!>,  the  harvested 
crops  of  grains  in  I'pper  California  amounted 
to  Gii,000  busiiels  of  wiienl,  'J-J,000  of  maize, 
3.000  offruvlcs,  15,000  of  barley,  700  of  peas. 
When  ai)  intellectual  and  industrious  race 
shall  plouiiii  that  Sdii,  and  iiarvest  its  generous 
crops,  tlie  Calilornias  will  become  the  granary 
of  Western  America. 

The  Irish  and  the  sweet  poUito  have  been 
introduced  by  Amerioan  settlers,  and  thrive 
remarkably  well.  Cabbages,  turmps,  and 
otiier  g-arden  vegetables,  have  not  yet  been 
tested.  IJu'  no  doubt  can  be  entertiined  that 
these  would  grow  as  well  as  any  other  |)lants. 

Hemp  and  llax  have  been  tried,  and  prove 
congenial  to  the  climate  and  soil. 

Hut  tiie  grape  will  undoubtedly  be  the  great 
staple  product  of  the  Califurnias.  It  is  now 
considerably  cultivated.  On  this  subject,  my 
intelligent  Iriend,  Ur.  Marsh,  writes  thus : 
"  N^'irly  the  whole  of  the  (-alifornias  is  well 
adai-icd  to  the  cultivation  of  tlw>  vine.  I  have 
been  assured  by  Mons.  Louis  Vignes,  a  native 
of  Uordeaux,  Fnince,  that  the  soil  and  climate 
of  California  are  superiortci  any  part  of  France 
for  this  kind  of  eultnre.  The  competency  of 
this  gentleman  to  decide  on  the  sul)jecf  is 
most  satislai'torily  proven  by  the  large  fortune 
he  has  made  at  this  same  business  here  in  the 
short  period  of  six  years,  although  his  vine- 
yard has  not  yet  come  to  maturity.  The  olive 
tree  also  lleurishes  ext  odingly  well.  Figs, 
lemons,  and  oranges,  .tre  common  south  of 
Monterey,  and  produce  abundantly  all  the 
year.  North  of  that  jxiint,  figs  are  very  pro- 
ductive and  excellent,  but  we  get  only  one 
croj)  a  year.  Cotton  and  tobacco  also  thrive 
finely." 

Kice  may  be  raised  in  untold  quantities 
about  the  waters  of  tht;  .San  Joaquim  and  Sa- 
cramento.   The  immense  fresh  water  marshes 


about  the  mouths  of  these  streams  are  capable 
of  being  turned  into  fields  for  the  production 
of  this  grain,  at  a  very  trifling  expense.  In- 
deed, it  may  be  confidently  asserted,  that  no 
country  in  the  world  possesses  so  fine  a  cli- 
mate, coupled  with  so  productive  a  soil,  as  the 
seaboard  portion  of  the  Califomias,  including 
the  territory  on  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  and 
the  Hivers  San  Joaquim  and  Sacnimento.  But 
its  misemble  people  live  unconscious  of  these 
things.  In  their  gardens  grow  the  apple,  the 
pear,  the  olive,  fig,  and  orange,  the  Irish  and 
sweet  potiito,  tlie  yam  and  plantain,  most 
luxuriantly,  side  by  side;  and  yet  they  sleep, 
and  smoke,  and  hum  some  tune  of  Castilian 
laziness,  while  surrounding  nature  is  thus  in- 
viting them  to  the  noblest  and  richest  rewards 
of  Inmourable  toil. 

But,  this  idleness  notwithstnnding,  the 
Californians  are  rich — rich  in  the  most  luxu- 
riant wild  pastures,  and  the  cattle,  mules, 
horses,  and  wild  animals  that  feed  upon  them. 
The  immense  number  of  these  animals,  in  the 
time  of  prosperity  among  the  Missions,  may 
be  gathered  from  another  extract  from  Dr. 
Marsh's  letter:  "Some  of  the  Missions  were 
formerly  possessed  of  great  wealth.  For 
several  years  during  the  civil  wars  of  the 
Mexican  Uevolulion,  no  vessels  of  any  kind 
visited  this  coast,  and  both  the  Missions  and 
private  families  were  obliged  to  rely  entirely 
on  tlieir  own  resources  fir  supplies  of  every 
kind.  And  when  the  ships  ot  Boston,  after 
the  wars  bad  ceased,  began  to  visit  these 
shores  ao-ain,  for  hiiles  and  tiillow,  such  quan- 
tities of  these  articles  had  accumulated,  that 
the  single  Mission  of  San  (iabriel  purchased 
several  successive  cargoes  of  cloths  and  gro- 
ceries, at  about  one  hundred  thousand  dollars 
each,  and  paid  for  them  in  hides  and  tillow. 
This  Mission  at  that  time  possessed  over  one 
hundred  thousand  head  of  neat  cattle,  and 
great  nuinber.-!  of  horses  and  sheep.  The 
vineyards  produced  between  two  and  three 
hundred  barrels  of  brandy  annually,  and  wine 
enough  for  the  consumption  of  the  Mission, 
and  for  the  purposes  of  the  unbounded  hospi- 
uilily  which  then  pervaded  those  establish- 
ments. 

"The  Indian  population  of  the  Mission  at 
that  period  was  three  or  four  thousand.  At 
present  it  is  f-oin  one  to  two  hundred,  and  the 
ilocks  and  herds  are  hardly  sufficient  to  sup- 
port them.  The  same  remark  will  apply, 
with  little  variation,  to  all  the  Missions  ol  the 
Califoriiias.  They  are  mere  skeletons  of  what 
they  formerly  were.  San  Josef  is  the  only 
exception.  This  still  has  a  population  of 
about  fourteen  hundred  souls,  twenty-five 
ihousand  black  cattle,  nearly  the  same  num- 
ber of  sheep,  and  considerable  bands  of  horses, 
mules,  &c."— I'p.  32G— 345. 

The  seaward  coast  of  the  Californias,  ex- 
tending through  twenty  degrees  of  latitude, 
has  only  two  good  harbours.  There  are,  in- 
deed, very  many  roadsteads  and  bays,  where 
vessels  anchor  with  considerable  safety,  and 
take  in  and  discharge  cargoes,  but  they  are  all 
exposed  to  some  of  the  prevailing  winds.  The 


py0^ 


FARNHAM  ON  CALftORNIA. 


[19  are  capable 
he  production 
expense.  In> 
srted,  that  no 
ao  fine  a  nli- 
R  a  soil,  as  the 
ias,  including 
''raiicisco  mid 
niinonto.  But 
•ions  of  these 
ho  apple,  the 
the  Irish  and 
Inntain,  most 
et  they  sleep, 
•  of  Castilian 
ire  is  thus  in- 
chc&t  rewards 

tindinrr,  the 
e  most  luxu- 
attie,  mules, 
id  upon  them, 
limals,  in  the 
lissions,  may 
ict  from  Dr. 
lissions  were 
veallh.      For 

wars  of  the 
I  of  any  kind 
Missions  and 

rely  entirely 
lies  of  every 
Boston,  after 
)  visit  these 
V,  such  quan* 
nulatcd,  that 
el  purcliased 
Ihs  and  gro- 
isand  dollars 
I  and  tallow, 
sed  over  one 
cattle,  and 
iheep.  The 
o  and  three 
ly,  and  wine 

he  Mission, 
unded  huspi- 
le  establish- 

)  Mission  at 

ousand.     At 

Ired,  and  the 

lent  to  eup- 

will   apply, 

ssions  ol  the 

tons  of  what 

is  the  only 

ipulation   of 

twenty-five 

same  num- 

Js  of  horses, 

ifornias,  ex- 
of  latitude, 
here  are,  in- 
lays, where 
safety,  and 
t  they  are  all 
winds.  The 


only  well  protected  harbour  is  San  Diego,  ly- 
ing in  latitude  33°  17'  north.  This  is  land- 
locked— without  surf,  with  a  smooth,  hard 
sand  beach,  and  free  from  rocks  and  stones. 
But  it  is  much  less  in  extent,  and  far  less 
valuable  to  commerce,  than  the  Bay  of  San 
Francisco. 

The  Bay  of  San  Francisco  is  ihe  ;jlory  of 
the  Western  World.  Its  mouth  lies  in  latitude 
37°  58'.  The  water  on  the  i -ir  is  eiyht 
fathoms  at  low  tide.  The  mountains  on  either 
hand  rise  several  hundred  feet  above  the  sea, 
and  form  fine  landmarks  in  fogijy  weather,  io 

Eoint  out  the  bar,  and  the  channel  into  the 
arbour.  The  capes  at  the  ocean's  edge  are 
about  two  miles  apart,  always  verdant  and 
refreshing  to  the  eye ;  and,  as  you  go  up  the 
passage,  the  little  streams  tumbling  from  the 
rocks  among  the  greenwood,  ana  the  wild 
game,  standing  out  on  the  cliffs,  or  frolicking 
among  the  brush,  and  the  seal  barking  in  the 
water,  give  promise  of  pleasure  and  rest  from 
the  toils  of  the  sea. 

This  passage  is  about  five  miles  in  length. 
Four  and  a  half  miles  from  the  capes  it  nar- 
rows considerably,  and  presents  a  bold  point 
north  and  south.  On  the  southern  one  stands 
the  Presidio,  or  fort,  on  which  this  mighty 
harbour  condescends  to  depend  for  protection. 
'I'he  fort  is  in  ruins.  A  dozen  old  rusty  guns, 
ill  the  CHH!  of  thirty  or  forty  half-clad,  half- 
breed  soldiers,  usually  fora<iing  in  smiads  of 
five  or  ten  among  the  neighbouring  Missions; 
one  side  of  its  walls  tumbled  down,  and  an- 
other strongly  disposed  to  plunge  into  the  sea, 
and  not  the  tenth  of  a  true  soldier's  heart  beat- 
in^r  for  a  hundred  miles  around,  is  a  true  sum- 
ming up  of  its  present  strength. 

The  house  of  the  commandant,  situated  in 
one  cornir,  is  a  respectable  white-washed  pile 
of  mud  and  bricks.  On  the  other  corner  of 
the  same  side  is  the  chapel,  also  built  of  mud 
— a  filthy  place  for  worship.  On  another  side 
are  artificers'  shops  and  a  prison. — Pp.  35*2, 
353. 

Six  miles  from  the  capes  at  the  mouth,  and 
at  the  point  where  it  begins  to  open  into  the 
bay, are  two  small  islands,  on  which  forts  might 
be  conveniently  built  that  would  command  the 
mirrows,  and  also  the  entrance  into  both  the 
north  and  south  parts  of  the  bay.  Indeed,  the 
whole  bay  is  so  studded  with  islands,  easily 
fortified,  and  so  overhung  by  headlands,  which 
of  themselves  are  fortresses,  that  a  party  in 
possession  of  them  could  hold  the  bay  ag;iinst 
vast  odds,  and  in  coin|)anitlve  security.  From 
the  narrows  to  the  northern  point  of  the  bay 
is  twenty-four  miles,  and  to  the  south-eastern 
point  thirty-five  miles. 

The  southern  half  of  the  bay  varies  from 
fourteen  to  fifteen,  the  northern  half  from  four 
to  twenty  miles  in  width.  In  every  part  of 
tliis  large  tract  of  water  is  good  holding 
ground,  and  on  all  its  shores  are  coves  in 
which  vessels  of  any  tonnage  may  lie  snug 
and  secure  from  storms,  within  a  cable's 
length  of  the  land.  In  the  north-west  corner 
of  the  bay  is  the  inlet  of  the  Kio  Saeramenlo. 
it  is  about  one  and  three-fourth  miles  wide, 


for  the  distance  of  seven  miles,  and  then 
spreads  cut  into  a  bay  seven  miles  wide  and 
twelve  in  length,  when  it  narrows  down  to 
four  miles,  for  the  distance  of  two  miles  and 
a  half,  then  widens  to  seven  or  eight  miles 
the  distiince  of  eleven  miles,  with  islands  in 
the  centre,  then  narrows  to  four  miles  for  the 
distJinco  of  three  miles,  and  then  it  widens 
into  a  bay  about  twenty  miles  north  and  southl- 
and about  the  same  distance  cast  and  west, 
studded  with  nine  islands.  On  the  east  of  it, 
between  the  mouth  of  the  Sacramento  and  tho 
bay,  lies  one  about  fifteen  niles  in  length, 
north-east  and  south-west  and  of  a  breadth 
varying  from  three  miles  i;j  ten.  All  these 
islands  are  low  and  marshy.  On  the  southern 
point  of  this  large  island  comes  in  the  Rio 
San  Joaquim,  ana  on  the  northern  point  of  it 
is  the  northern  mouth  of  the  Sacramento. 

On  the  south  side  of  the  promontoiy  on 
which  stands  the  fort  Castillo  de  San  Fran- 
cisco, is  a  little  village  called  Verba  Bueno. — 
Pp.  353,  354. 

The  surpassing  beauty  and  magnificence  of 
this  harbour  of  San  Francisco  can  never  be 

firoperly  estimated  by  being  viewed  from  the 
and.  One  must  approach  it  from  the  sea- 
have  a  full  view  of  the  lofty  shores  north  and 
south,  rising  at  intervals  into  lofty  peaks, 
girded  at  their  bases  with  primeval  forests  of 
evergreen  cedars  and  pines,  mottled  with  the 
boughs  of  the  oak,  thf  ash,  and  the  plane. 
The  bar  which  springs  from  the  northern 
headlands  of  its  entrance,  and,  running  he- 
iieatb  the  blue  waters  of  the  P;icilie,  from  five 
to  nine  fathoms,  causes  a  hi  It  of  surf  to  roll 
across  the  mouth,  must  be  }i:issi'<l.  A  breeze 
must  bear  your  bark  over  and  along  the  dan- 
gerous rocks  three-(iirarters  of  a  mile  iiiNJileoii 
the  right,  qunrrelling  with  the  surges,  and  on- 
ward four  miles  between  the  projecting  clilTs, 
overhanging  peaks,  and  verdant  woodlands, 
filled  with  starting  deer  and  other  game,  to 
the  harbour  at  the  narrows  beneath  the  fort; 
and  thence  onward  still,  past  the  fort  and  the 
islands  lying  across  the  entrance,  and  the  bay 
is  seen  ! — a  broad  sheet  of  water  stretching  off, 
north  and  south,  and  the  largest  and  best  har- 
bour of  the  earth,  surrounded  by  a  country 
partly  wooded  and  |)artly  disposed  in  open 
glades  and  prairies  of  the  richest  kind,  covered 
with  the  flocks  and  lierdsof  the  Missions,  and 
deer,  and  elk,  and  bears.  And  amid  the 
beautiful  hills  of  the  south  and  east  are  .Santa 
Clam,  Kl  Pueblo  .San  Jose,  and  Mission  San 
.lose ;  and  on  the  southern  ]ieniiisula,  five  miles 
wide,  is  San  Francisco,  Verba  Bueno,  the 
trading-house  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Fur  (Com- 
pany, the  Presidio  and  the  (Castillo;  on  the 
northern  peninsula  is  San  Hafael,  and  in  tho 
north  San  Franciseo  Solano;  a  group  of  beau- 
ty and  grandeur  that  knows  no  superior  in  any 
clime. — P.  .'{Sr). 

Ani.mai.s. — ('r.fus  Jlmericnnus,  the  Black 
Bear,  is  an  inhabitant  of  many  parts  of  Cali- 
fornia, and  is  too  well  known  to  most  readers 
to  reciuiri-  a  descrij)tiou.  In  its  habits  and  ap- 
pearance it  differs  little  from  its  brethren  of  the 
north. 


I 


II 


<0 


FARNHAM  ON  CALIFORNIA. 


I    ,    V 


f 


»   I 


^  '.  I 


ii 


'  I' 


Urm*  .UrtUm  v.  Jwericanui,  Darren  Ground 
Boar. — ^Tliis  is  probably  a  variety  of  the  first 
mentioned  species,  from  which  it  diflers  in 
its  lighter  colour,  being  a  dusky  brown.  It 
resentblfH,  in  appearance  and  habits,  particu- 
larly in  the  nature  of  its  food,  which  consists 
to  a  great  degree  of  fish,  the  brown  bear  of 
Norwiiy.  Much  confusion  has  been  produced 
by  confounding  this  witli  the  next  which  we 
shall  mention,  and  which  is  now  well  recog- 
nised as  a  distinct  species. 

UrtunferoT,  the  Grisly  Bear.— Tliis  is  the 
largest,  most  formidable, and  most  romarkabh' 
wild  animal  of  the  country.  Numerous  and 
almost  incredible  are  the  stories  related  of  its 
ferocity  and  strength.  Specimens  are  to  be 
met  with  measuring  four  feet  in  height,  and 
weighing  from  five  hundred  to  one  thousand 
pounds.  Unlike  the  black  bear,  this  species 
never  climbs  trees.  His  habits  are  solitary, 
and  though  an  ugly  customer  to  meet,  he  sel- 
dom becomes  the  aggressor.  Although  flesh 
is  his  favourite  foocl,  yet  when  that  is  not  at- 
tainable he  will  eat  vermin,  berries,  and  roots, 
in  digging  for  which  he  frequently  overturns 
fallen  timber  which  a  yoke  of  oxen  could 
scarcely  move.  It  is  seldom  that  the  Indians, 
with  their  imperfect  weapons,  venture  to  at- 
tick  this  formidable  animal,  and  whenever 
one  is  killed  by  them,  the  occasion  becomes  a 
matter  of  great  rejoicing,  and  the  fortunate 
victor  is  ever  after  lield  in  great  estimation  by 
his  comrades.  A  steak  cut  from  the  haunch 
of  the  grisly  bear,  and  roasted  on  a  stick  by  a 
camp  (ire,  is  by  no  means  despicable  fare,  and 
the  skin  forms  a  most  comfortable  couch  for 
the  hunter. 

Urstts  mtiritimus.  Polar  Bear. — This  great 
inhabitant  of  the  frozen  regions  is  not  pr()perly 
a  Californism  animal,  though  there  is  no 
doubt  that  he  sometimes  makes  his  appearance 
on  the  extreme  northern  coast,  being  floated 
southward  on  his  own  peculiar  and  original 
conveyance,  a  cake  of  ice. 

Procyim  lotor,  Raccoon. — This  well  known 
animal  is  found  in  many  parts  of  California. 

MelcH  Salrndfiira,  American  Badger. — This 
species  inhabits  the  northern  part  of  Califor- 
nia, as  well  as  the  plains  of  Misso  iri  and  those 
near  the  Wocky  Mountains,  north  to  the  Peace 
River.  It  burrows  in  the  sand,  and  is  well 
calculated  for  its  mode  of  life,  being  very 
strong  in  the  fore  feet.  It  is  entirely  different 
in  aspect  and  size  from  the  European  species. 

Gulo  luacut,  the  Glutton,  or  Wolverine. — 
This  peculiar  animal,  which  partakes  of  the 
nature  of  the  bear,  the  fox,  and  the  weasel,  is 
well  known  to  the  beaver  trappers,  by  the  con- 
stant annoyance  to  which  it  subjects  them  in 
devouring   their  baits  and    destroying    their 
traps.     It  is  a  savage,  sullen   creature,  and 
though  from  its  size  not  formidable  to  man,  it 
preys  upon  small  animals.     Stories  have  been 
often  repeated,  of  the  manner  in  which  the 
wolverine  entraps  the  deer,  by  climbing  to  a 
branch  of  a  tree,  and  letting  down  moss,  upon 
which  the  unsuspecting  victim  stopping  to 
feed,  is  immediately  mounted  by  the  glutton, 
which,  fixing  his  claws  and  teeth  in  its  back, 


maintains  his  bold  till  the  lacerated  and  ter- 
rified animal  falls  and  offers  n  delicious  meal 
to  its  tiestroyer. 

Mmlclii  vulfiorii.  Common  Weasel,  and  M. 
rrminrn.  Ermine,  are  both  found  in  various 
parts  of  the  ('alifornias.  M.  vhim,  the  Mink, 
M.  martv!*,  the  Martin,  Mqiliills  .liniricnna, 
the  Skunk,  are  also  inhabitjinta  of  tiiis  conn- 
try,  in  common  with  nearly  the  whole  Ameri- 
can continent. 

In  many  parts  wolves  ant  very  numerous. 
Several  species  are  met  with,  of  which  the 
iMjmit  Amtriraimx,  Common  VV(»lf,  is  perhaps 
the  mo-^t  niiineroiis  The  others  are,  L.  ip'i- 
Kitis,  (irny  VVolt,  A.  iiuIu'IIk,  Dusky  Wolf, 
and  L.  liter,  Illick  Wolf,  with  their  varieties. 
The  ("ania  lirmii^y  Prairie  Wolf,  is  also  found 
here. 

The  natives  have  a  very  miserable,  dirty 
species  of  cur.  which  appears  to  be  about  half 
domesticated,  rcHembles  its  parent-stock,  the 
wolf,  and  is  (|uite  useless,  except  to  devour 
provisions  and  figlit  flies. 

The  Ciini»  {vu!}ieii)fnlvuii.  Red  Fox,  and  the 
Canin  cincreo-arfiiiitaius.  Gray  Fox,  are  com- 
mon. These  are  the  only  ascertained  species 
which  are  nut  with,  and  it  is  probably  a  va- 
riety of  liie  latter  which  is  described  by  Dou- 
glas as  being  plentiful  on  the  Multnomak,and 
which  he  absurdly  states  is  in  the  habit  of 
climbing  trees. 

There  are  probably  more  than  one  s|)ecie« 
of  the  cat  tribe  remaining  unde.seribed  by  na- 
turalists, in  the  countries  of  the  (.'oluuibia  and 
Sacramento.  This  opinion  is  expressed  by 
Douglas.  The  ascertained  species  arc  the 
following:  Ft  lis  cimcnlor,  the  ('ouijir  or 
Puma,  ot'tcn  called  "lion"  by  the  inhabitants, 
a  well  known  and  very  savagi-  and  formidable 
animal.  It  is  confined  mostly  to  the  deep 
forests  and  thickly  wooded  sides  of  the  moun- 
tains, and  preys  on  deer  and  other  animals. 
Fclis  CanaJemif,  Northern  Lynx;  Felix J'asci- 
nta.  Banded  Lynx,  or  Tiger  Cat;  Felia  rttfn. 
Red  Lynx,  comprise  all  the  described  varieties 
found  in  the  Californias.  The  latter  is  a  timid 
animal,  and  may  easily  be  captured  with  the 
aid  of  a  dog,  and  a  club,  or  almost  any  other 
weapon. 

In  the  Sacramento  and  San  .lonquim  Rivers, 
as  well  as  on  many  parts  of  the  coast,  the 
I'hi>cn  vilrllina.  Common  Hair  Seal,  is  abun- 
dant, and  fnllows  the  track  of  the  salmon. 

Vufliir  fiber,  the  Beaver,  and  Fiber  zHiethi' 
cus,  the  Musk  Rat,  are  common  in  some 
parts  of  the  country  ;  and  the  former  is  nume- 
rous at  the  mouths  of  the  Sacramento  and  San 
Joaquim  Rivers.  The  beaver  is  well  known 
to  naturalists,  for  tlie  remarkable  skill  and  in- 
dustry which  it  exhibits  in  the  construction 
of  its  habitation,  and  the  general  sagacity  and 
intelligence  of  its  character.  For  this  reason, 
as  well  as  on  account  of  the  value  of  its  skin, 
as  an  article  of  commerce,  and  the  employ- 
ment which  its  capture  affords  to  many  enter- 
prising and  bold  men,  some  account  of  its 
haunts,  and  of  the  means  used  in  obtaining  it 
for  purposes  of  trade,  may  not  be  uninterest- 
ing.   Near  and  about  the  mouth  of  tlie  Sacra- 


FARMIAM  ON  CALIFORNIA. 


61 


mtfMl  and  ter- 
•'licioiis  meal 

phspI,  and  nf. 
id  ill  vnrioiis 
"I,  the  Mink, 
.f  Jiinn'cana, 
of  this  conn- 
ttliolc  Anieri. 

ry  numerous, 
'f  whicli  the 
If,  is  pcrhiips 
nrp,  L.  (rri. 
)mV\-  Wolf, 
iHr  varieties, 
is  also  found 

prable,  dirfy 
ie  about  half 
fit-stock,  the 
pt  to  devour 

Fox,  and  the 
x,  are  com- 
ined  species 
■obably  a  va- 
)i'd  by  Don- 
ltnoni!ik,and 
tho  habit  of 

one  specien 
ribed  liy  na- 
olumbi;i  and 
xpresscd  by 
3if9   lire  the 

('CuiTiir    or 

inhabitants, 
d  fi)rniidable 
(o  the  deep 
of  thenioun- 
lor  animals. 
;  Felisfasci- 

Felh  riifa, 
bed  varieties 
terisatimid 
«'d  with  the 
St  any  other 

[uini  Hivers, 
3  coast,  the 
!al,  is  abun- 
salmon. 
iber  zihethi- 
m  in  some 
ler  is  nume- 
nto  and  San 
well  known 
kill  and  in- 
•oiistruclion 
Miracity  and 
this  reason, 

of  its  skin, 
he  employ- 
inany  enter- 
;ount  of  its 
)btaining  it 

uninterest- 
f  tlie  Sacm- 


mnnto,  as  before  observed,  lies  a  wide  extent 
of  lowland  overflowed  by  the  tide,  and  ini'iud- 
injj  some   hundreds  of  small  islands,  covered 
with  an  enormous  ijrowth   of  rushes.     There 
is  |ircibalily  no  spot  of  equal  extent  on  the 
whole  eoiitinent  of  America,  whieh   contains 
80  many  of  these  niiieli  souirlit  tor  animals. 
For  the   last   titteen  years  the  lliidson's  Hay 
Company  liave   annually  sent   hither  a  coin. 
pany  of  from   lifty  to  one  huiidrel   tnippers, 
who  have  each  year  tiiken  from  this  spot  alone 
from  five   lo  ten  thousand   of  these  valuable 
skins.     It  is  said  by  hunters  well  aci|uaiuted 
with  the  whole  Rocky  Mountain  re^fion,  that 
they    have    never   seen    anywhere    else    such 
larjre    and    fat   beavers.     On   account  of   the 
scarcity  of  the  timber  of  which  their  huts  are 
generally  constructed,  the   beavers,   like  true 
philosophers,  have  here  accommodated  them- 
selves  to  circumstances,  and   build  their  ha- 
bitations   of  rushes,    curiously  and    skilfully 
interwoven.     Notwithstandiiicj    the    immense 
con8cri()tiMn  drawn  from  their  familiis  by  th(^ 
hunters,  their  numbers  as  yet  do  not  sensibly 
diminish.     The  very  larjre   size  of  the  skins 
obtained  from  this  place,  causes  their  value  to 
be  irriatly  enhanced.     The  probable  worth  of 
each  skin,  alter  it  is  jirepared  by  ilie  huiiteir, 
for  exportation,  is  about  three  dollars  ;    and 
reckuriiriir  the  average   number  at  eiiilil  tliou- 
sand,  we  may  arrive  at  an  approximation   to 
the  i^Tcat  importance  of  this  siiijilc!  locality  to 
the  llndsnirs  Hay  Company.     'I'he  quality  of 
till'   Cur,   however,   is    hardly   so   fine  as  that 
which  is  taken  in  a  more  northerly  rey;ion. 

Cerru.i  aires,  the  Moose,  is  found  in  all  the 
woody  and  mountainous  regions  on  the  Co- 
lumbia, and  is  abundant  farther  southward, 
near  'An'  coast.  This  noble  animal,  the  iar<jest, 
heaviest,  and  stateliest  of  the  deers,  is  pecu- 
liarly worthy  of  mention.  In  size  scarcely 
inferior  to  the  horse,  with  his  liug-i*  palmated 
horns  stretchinjj  three  feet  on  each  side  of  his 
head,  his  loner  leps  and  racking  gait  giving  a 
singular  and  grotescjue  air  to  all  his  move- 
ments, the  moose  is  perhaps  the  most  remark- 
able inhabitant  of  the  country  Over  level 
ground,  and  when  unim|)eded  by  bushes,  or 
by  snow,  bis  speed  is  superior  to  that  of  the 
swiftest  horse,  and  the  cracking  of  his  joints 
and  hoofs  can  be  heard  almost  as  far  as  his 
form  can  be  Sf'cn.  In  fact,  it  is  only  when  a 
deep  SHOW  covers  the  ground  that  the  capture 
'of  the  moose  can  be  well  eflected.  VVI'en 
this  is  the  case,  the  expert  hunter,  with  his 
snow-shoes  and  his  dogs,  heconn.'s  more  than 
a  match  for  the  moose,  with  all  his  desperate 
eirr)rts  to  escape.  A  day  is  genenlly  selected 
after  a  deep  fall  of  snow  has  been  followed 
by  a  slight  rain,  wliicli  forms  a  i;rust  on  the 
surface.  The  poor  moose,  whose  great  size 
and  weight  are  here  of  the  utmost  disadvan- 
tage to  him,  is  hindered  in  his  flight  by  break-  i 
ing  through  the  crust,  which  cuts  and  bruises  i 
his  legs,  and,  sinking  into  the  snow,  soon  be- 
comes exhausted;  while  the  lightness  of  the  \ 
dogs,  and  the  snow-shoes  of  the  pursuer,  bear  j 
them  forward  in  safety,  and  soon  the  crack  of 
the  unerring  rifle  tells  that  the  noble  game  has  j 


I  met  his  fate.  The  tongue  of  tae  moose  is 
considered  a  great  delicacy  by  the  hunters,  and 
I  his  skin  and  horns  are  also  of  great  value. 
This  animal,  when  full  grown,  is  from  twelve 
to  fourteen  hands  high,  and  weighs  from  Ave 
to  nine  hundred  pounds.  Its  colour  is  a  dark 
grayish  brown,  fading  into  white  or  light  fawn 
colour  on  the  belly.  The  head  is  large,  the 
eyes  peculiarly  prominent  and  bright,  and  the 
horns,  which  are  thrown  back  on  the  shoul- 
(lers  when  the  animal  is  running,  will  weigh 
from  twenty  to  forty  pounds. 

The  niiiose  must  not  be  confounded  with 
another  species  which,  though  it  is  totally  dis- 
tinct, is  yet  often  called  by  the  hunters,  "  gray 
moose."  This  is  the  Klk  proper,  also  known 
as  the  stag,  red  deer,  wapiti,  &c.,  the  Cervus 
('rtm/f/e^;w)/;t  of  naturalists,  'i'lie  elk  is  an  in- 
liabitiint  of  the  plains,  partirularly  in  the  val- 
leys of  the  San  Joaquim  and  other  rivers, 
where  immense  herds,  sometimes  of  many 
thousands,  often  congregiUe.  The  iiiiport<ince 
of  the  elk  lo  the  Indians,  as  an  articlt;  of  food, 
lea<ls  them  to  adopt  many  ingenious  devices 
for  his  destruction.  One  o'"  these  is  interest- 
ing. The  Indian  has  prepared  an  elk  skin, 
with  the  head  and  horns  in  their  natural  con- 
dition. After  .siirvying  a  herd  of  his  intended 
victims,  who  are  quietly  feeding  on  the  plain, 
he  gets  steiijtliily  to  their  windward  side, and. 
after  crawling,  sometimes  on  his  hands  and 
knees,  to  escape  their  keen  observation,  as  nnar 
as  be  thinks  possible,  and  if  pricticable, 
sirrcening  himself  behind  a  skirl  ot  bushes,  he 
puts  III  the  prepared  skin,  and  emerges  from 
his  liidiiig-place,  with  his  bow  and  arrows 
under  his  arm.  As  soon  as  he  is  sufficiently 
near  for  his  purpose,  and  soiueiiims  the  un- 
suspicious animals  will  allow  him  to  approach 
almost  into  the  centre  of  the  herd,  lie  His  his 
arrows  to  his  bow,  and  fires  away  ri^lit  and 
left,  as  fast  as  the  shafts  can  be  disdiarged, 
and  before  the  victims  have  recovered  from 
their  astonishment  the  plain  is  strowt  d  with 
the  wounded  and  dying. 

Another  method  of  taking  this  animal  is  by 
means  of  snares,  made  of  a  tough  kind  of 
grass,  which  are  set  on  their  jilaces  of  resort. 
The  elk  is  considerably  less  in  si/e  than  his 
gigantic  relative,  the  moose,  and  his  figure  and 
general  appearance  are  cjuite  didereiit.  being 
much  lighter,  and  more  slender,  and  resem- 
bling more  nearly  the  common  deer.  The 
legs,  like  those  of  the  whole  family,  are  long 
and  slender,  the  tail  short,  the  horns  long  ami 
much  branched,  the  colour  a  decided  gray, 
often  with  a  mixture  of  brown. 

Several  other  species  of  deer  are,  found  on 
th'3  tiraiid  and  Sheetskadee  rivers,  and  in 
various  other  parts  of  California.  The  ('ertu.i 
inacriiliH,  IMack-lailed  Deer,  is  a  handsome 
animal.  Its  size  is  about  that  of  the  common 
deer.  The  colour  is  bluish  gray  on  the  back, 
and  fawn  colour  on  the  belly.  The  ears  are 
curious,  being  as  lon^  as  those  of  an  ass,  and 
the  tail  is  short  and  black.  Anotlu^r  very 
small  and  pretty  species  is  theOrrcujt  ieucurut, 
Long-biiled  or  Jumping  Ueer,  the  chevreuil 
of  the  hunters.    This  is  gray  on  the  back,  and 


i| 


69 


FARNHAM  ON  CALIFORNFA. 


I. 

i 

ifi 


i       &'l  A 


!   k  I  X 


'  I' 


pure  whitr  on  the  holly,  and  is  remarkBhle  for 
naving  a  tiiil  from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches 
in  length. 

Jtnlilopt  fw-eifer,  the  Pronghom  Antelope, 
is  a  vnry  prcHy  and  delicate  species.  It  i" 
not  |T«>n«mlly  ahundant,  though  in  some  locali 
tif.s  it  may  he  found  in  consideralile  numbers. 
Its  extreme  shyness  renders  its  rapture  a  mat- 
ter of  great  difficulty.  It  presents  a  very 
graceful  appeamncc  when  hounding  "P  the 
sides  of  almost  inaccessible  rocks,  and  the  hun- 
gry travclier  is  often  tTntalized  with  bi'tiolding 
It  standing  in  perfect  safety  on  a  far-oif  clilf, 
while  his  utmoHt  endeavours  to  get  it  within 
rarige  of  liis  rifle  are  perfectly  futile. 

Uri»  munlana,  the  Mountain  Sheep,  or  Ar- 
■nili,  is  another  peculiar  animal.  Its  hahitii- 
tion  is  on  tlm  loftiest  ai\d  coldest  mountiiins, 
among  tj\e  most  tremendous  and  impassable 

Iirecipices.  In  geiieml  figure  it  much  resem- 
iles  a  large  sheep  of  the  domestic  kind,  hut 
its  horns  seem  out  of  all  proportion  to  its 
body.  These  are  from  two  to  nearly  three 
feet  in  length,  are  deeply  ribbed,  and  curve 
backwards.  Their  weight  on  the  male  is 
sometimes  thirty  pounds.  The  covering  of 
the  body  can  scarcely  he  called  wool,  being  a 
kind  of  coarse,  short  hair,  of  a  dingy  brown 
colour.  It  is  called,  by  the  voyageurs,  "il/ow- 
ton  tTM,"  and  the  ilesh,  though  rather  dry,  is 
very  good.  The  mountain  sheep  appears  to 
have  early  attracted  the  attention  of  travellers, 
and  is  described  by  Padres  Piccolo  and  Sal- 
vatierra  under  the  Californian  name  of  Taye. 
The  horns  of  this  species  are  manufactured 
into  spoons,  and  various  other  useful  articles. 

Bus  Jmericanus,  the  Dison,  so  well  known 
to  the  western  hunters,  and  so  numerous  on 
the  prairies  between  the  Rocky  ^lountains 
and  the  United  States,  can  hardly  be  consi- 
dered a  Californian  animal.  That  it  once  in- 
habited the  country,  there  can  he  no  doubt,  hut 
probably  in  conse(|uence  of  the  great  and  sin- 
gular change  which  has  converted  the  interior 
trom  a  rich  and  fertile  plain  into  a  desolate 
waste,  the  bison  has  receded,  and  is  now  only 
to  be  found,  and  that  in  small  numbers,  on  the 
extreme  eastern  and  northern  border. 

Luira  mnrinn,  the  .*<ea  Otter,  and  Lutra 
Brtuilieruis,  the  Land  Otter,  are  found  in  many 
parts  of  the  country.  The  former  is  abundant 
in  most  parts  of  the  whole  coast,  and  at  the 
mouths  of  the  rivers.  This  is  perhaps  the 
most  valuable  fur-producing  animal  of  the 
country,  and  its  skin  is  much  sought  after  by 
the  Russians  for  the  purpose  of  adorning  the 
cloaks  and  state  robes  of  the  nobility.  The 
fur  is  of  a  velvety  brown  colour  on  the  hack, 
and  sprinkled  with  black  and  silky  hairs,  and 
the  lower  parts  of  the  animal  are  of  a  rich  sil- 
very gray.  The  sea  otter  is  from  five  to  six 
feet  in  length,  and  weighs  from  thirty  to  forty 
pounds,  its  body  being  of  very  slender  propor- 
tions. The  hinder  legs  are  very  short,  the  tail 
short,  broad,  and  paddle-shaped.  Tlie  colour 
varies  at  different  periods  of  life ;  when  very 
young,  the  fur  is  thin  and  scanty,  and  the  skin 
principally  covered  with  brown  hair;  from 
this  period  till  full  grown,  the  colour  is  nearly 


black,  with  many  hairs  tipped  with  white,  and 
the  face,  throat,  breast,  and  sometimes  the  en- 
tire belly,  are  yellowish  white,  or  very  light 
brown.  The  fijr  gradually  increases  in  thick- 
np«-  and  length,  until  th^  animal  attiiins  its 
^lo'  th,  when  it  assumes  the  rich  brown  of 
nm.iirity,  which  in  extreme  nw  becomcH  n 
chestnut,  or  even  a  perfect  yellow  colour. 

'I'be  sea  otter  lives  sometimes  in  families  ot 
considerable  numbers,  on  the  sea-waslicd 
rocks,  and  mostly  in  the  water.  It  fre(iuently 
rises  to  the  surface,  and  utters  a  hoars*)  snap- 
ping bark,  like  that  of  an  angry  dog.  U  feeds 
on  fish,  and  brings  forth  its  young  in  holrs 
dug  in  the  sand.  The  skins  ar»'  worth  from 
i|ir>0  to  i»UW  each.  The  shores  of  California 
would  furnish  from  'J(),(iOU  to  .'iO.OUO  an- 
nually. 

Of  rats,  mice,  marmots,  and  squirrels,  there 
are  numerous  species,  only  one  or  two  of 
which  sei'm  worthy  of  notice.  The  common 
rat,  the  black  rat,  and  two  or  three  dilferent 
kinds  of  mice,  are  found  in  great  numbers  in 
many  places,  and  their  depredations  are  some- 
times very  disagreeable.  J'teudoxUimn  Imrta- 
rium{?)  the  Pouched  Rat,  and  the  Jlrclomy* 
lircrheyi.  Small  Marmot,  are  curious  Utile 
creatures.  The  latter  is  excceilingly  plenti- 
ful in  the  plains  near  San  Francisco  and  Mon- 
terey. It  is  a  very  sprightly  animal,  some- 
what larger  than  the  common  rat,  of  a  fine 
brown  colour,  and  constructs  its  burrows  with 
much  skill,  carrying  in  its  capacious  cheek- 
pouches  a  store  of  nuts,  corn,  and  acorns,  for 
Its  winter's  food.  The  species  of  ^rclomt/a 
are  numerous,  and  some  ot  them  probably  uii- 
describcd.  Of  ascertained  species  may  he 
mentioned,  .j.  luHorieianut,  llie  well-known 
and  very  pretty  Prairie  Marmot,  sometimes 
called  (Jopher,  which,  howev(!r,  is  not  found 
far  to  the  west,  and  .7.  monax,  the  woodcbuck. 
Of  squirrels,  there  may  be  observed,  Murm 
cinerttit,  the  gray,  S.  uiger,  the  black,  .V.  iiia- 
croureus,  the  great-tailed,  besides  Pirntniyt 
alpinua  (.-)  the  flying  s(|uirrel,  and  a  species 
of  Tiimiat,  Striped  Squirrel,  or  Dormouse. 
Of  bares  there  are  several  fine  species,  one 
weighing  from  eight  to  twelve  i)ounds,  proba- 
bly/<«7)im  jlf/nffn/i.i  ,•  another  isX.  rirainianus, 
th(^  Prairie  Hare,  and  also  L.  /jrince/m  (?)  the 
Little  Hare,  which  is  only  about  six  inches  in 
length. 

UiRDS. — Worthy  of  mention  among  the 
first  of  the  feathered  family  in  California,  is 
the  Great  Vulture,  peculiar,  probably,  to  this 
country.  Let  his  name  he  given  in  full — a 
lofty  and  sonorous  one,  and  well  fitting  its 
owner — Sareoramphot  Californianuif !  Second 
only  to  the  huge  Condor  of  South  America  in 
size,  and  closely  allied  to  him  in  many  re- 
spects, this  remarkable  bird  deserves  particu- 
lar notice.  The  great  vulture  is  met  with 
along  the  whole  Pacific  coast,  from  Lower 
California  to  the  most  northern  boundaries  of 
Oregon  and  the  Russian  possessions.  Soli- 
tary in  its  habits,  rapacious  in  its  appetite, 
enormous  in  size,  and  singular  in  conformation 
and  appearance,  it  seems  to  hold  the  same 
position  in  the  scenery  of  this  country  as  its' 


TARNHA M  ON  CALIFORNIA. 


celebrntpd  European  congenpr,  »ho  liiiminer- 
gcypr,  in  that  of  the  Alps.  It  buililM  its  jutttt 
among  the  woqdy  liistrlcta  of  Californh.,  on 
the  tops  of  thii  highest  trees,  in  the  most  in- 
accPHHibIt)  Pdrta  of  the  mountain  valleys.  It 
is  v«!ry  wary  and  difficult  of  approach,  except 
M'hile  on  its  nest,  or  after  a  meal,  when  its 
whole  nature  seems  to  he  chanKed,  and  it  is 
so  overcome  by  the  inordinati;  indul;;nnce  of 
its  appetite,  that  it  may  be  knocked  on  the 
head  with  a  Hiick.  Their  food  is  carrion,  and, 
ill  cominon  with  others  of  thn  vultureM,  th<i 
carcase  of  a  dead  horse,  or  other  animal,  be- 
comes their  gathering  place.  The  great  vul- 
ture measures,  when  full  grown,  and  in  per- 
fect plumage,  about  four  feet  eight  inches  in 
length,  from  the  point  of  the  beak  to  the  end 
of  the  tail,  and  from  nine  feet  six  inches  to 
t«u»  feet  from  tip  to  tip  of  the  wings.  The 
colour  is  a  uniform  brownish  black  ;  the  bill, 
and  skin  of  the  head  and  legs,  yellow.  Tliu 
quill  feathers  are  much  esteemed  by  the 
hunters  and  boatman,  for  making  tubes  to 
ili-Ai  pipes. 

C^flkarU'  nura,  the  Turkey  Buzzard,  so 
comin(;n  in  the  Southern  States,  is  rather  a 
rare  bird  i.n  (^ulifornia.  Its  habits  are  well 
known.  As  a  scavenger  it  is  of  great  benefit 
to  the  inhabitants  of  the  places  which  it  fre- 
quents. A  dead  hog  or  sheep  lies  only  long 
enough  to  emit  the  odor  «o  grateful  to  the  nos- 
trils of  this  filthy  bird,  l><  tore  it  is  devoured 
entirely  out  of  sight.  So  far  as  the  observa- 
tioiiH  of  the  author  have  extended,  it  is  in  Cali- 
funiia  a  bird  of  passage,  being  only  found 
tliere  in  the  autumn  and  winter. 

I'alharleB  alralut,  the  Hlack  Vulture,  is  quite 
common  in  almost  uvery  part  of  the  country 
west  of  the  Kocky  Mountains'.  Its  habits  and 
general  appearance  are  quite  similar  to  those 
of  the  last-mentioned  species. 

Jlquila  Chrytaetoa,  the  (>olden  Eagle,  is  a 
noble  bird,  and  is  considt'id,  by  the  Indians 
as  well  as  the  civilized  <nti'  3,  an  emblem  of 
power  and  bravery.  Its  ]  .umes  are  used  by 
the  natives  as  ornaments,  and  are  attached  to 
their  pipes  or  calumets,  from  which  circum- 
stance it  is  called  the  Calumet  Eagle.  This 
upecies  is  found  on  tiio  coast,  and  in  most 
sections  of  the  woody  and  mountainous  parts 
of  California.  It  feeds  on  hares,  grouse,  and 
other  game,  and  seldom,  if  ever,  catches  fish. 

Jlquila  leucueephala,  the  Uald  Eagle. — This 
well-known  bird,  the  *'  American  Eagle"  by 
preeminence,  seems  hardly  wort!  y  of  his 
place  as  the  emblem  of  the  United  States. 
Though  in  appearance,  in  elegance  and 
strength  of  figure,  in  rapidity  of  flight,  and 
keenness  of  vision,  he  is  inferior  to  none  of 
his  race,  the  truth  compela  the  confession  that 
his  private  character  is  tinctured  with  some 
unworthy  vices.  His  appetite  is  dreadfully 
voracious,  and  when  it  cannot  be  otherwise 
satisfied,  he  contents  himself  with  attacking 
the  vultures,  and  devouring  the  disgusting 
contents  of  their  maws,  af^r  compelling  them 
to  disgorge  by  repeated  blows  on  their  nacks. 
He  is  also  a  complete  pirate  in  his  warfare 
with  the  honest  fish-hawk,  ofWn  forcing  the 


latter,  by  dint  of  superior  size  and  strength, 
to  give  up  his  well  earned,  long  watched  for, 
and  skillullv  secured  prey  of  fish,  which  he 
devours  with  great  zest.  He  is  a  very  expert 
fisher  himself,  however,  and  the  weight  of  his 
victim  is  Nomctimes  really  surprising.  The 
haunts  of  this  eaglo  are  about  streams  which 
contain  its  favourite  food,  where  it  may  often 
be  seen  perched  on  the  overhanging  limb  of  a 
dead  tree,  keeping  vigilant  watch  on  the  wa- 
ter below,  and  along  the  coast,  near  the  mouths 
of  creeks  and  inlets  of  the  sea.  The  voice  is 
a  shrill  scream,  or  whistle,  which  may  be 
heard  at  a  gr»>at  distance.  The  yo.ing  are 
gi'nerally  from  two  to  foui  in  number,  and  they 
remain  a  long  time  in  the  nest.  (Jreat  confu- 
sion has  been  produced  in  nomenclature  by 
the  frequent  mistakes  arisi  g  from  the  variety 
of  colour  in  this  bird,  a  variety  which  seems 
to  depend  solely  u|)on  age.  The  first  plumage 
is  of  a  brownish  black  colour,  which  in  the 
ensuing  summer  becomes  a  dark  and  speckled 
gray,  and  it  is  not  till  the  third  year  that  it 
assumes  the  pure  and  brilliant  white  of  tho 
head  and  neck,  which  has  given  it  tho  epithet 
of  "  Bald,"  and  the  deep  black  of  the  rest  ot 
the  body.  The  bald  eagle  is  about  three  feet 
in  length,  and  seven  in  extent.  The  wing8 
and  claws  are  extremely  vigorous  and  power- 
ful. 

Jlquila  llulixta,  the  Osprey  or  Fish  Hawk, 
inhabits  the  coast,  and  many  of  tho  interior 
waters  of  this  country.  This  bold  and  active 
fisher  has  been  so  well  described  by  natural 
ists  as  to  make  any  extended  notice  here  su- 
perfluous, though  his  admirable  traits  of  cha 
meter,  his  perseverance,  patience,  and  skill  in 
his  occupation  as  an  angler,  forbid  us  to  en- 
tirely omit  speaking  of  him.  Almost  every 
one  who  has  vistedthe  Atlantic  coast,  from 
Maine  to  Cieorgia,  is  acquainted  with  this 
bird,  and  has  observed  his  well-contested 
quarrels  with  the  bald  eagle. 

Falco  pere^intu,  the  Black  Hawk,  or  Pero- 

frrine  Falcon,  is  found  in  some  parts,  partici. 
arly  tho  northern,  where  he  is  probably  only 
a  summer  visitor.    This  hawk,  as  well  as 
many  other  species,  is  called  "  little  eagle' 
by  the  Indians. 

Fafco  IslandicuB,  the  Jer-Falcon,  is  an  elo 
gant  and  bold  bird,  probably  t)io  most  beauti- 
ful of  the  tribe.  He  inhabits  the  northern 
coast,  and  is  properly  confined  to  tho  frozen 
regions,  though  individuals  arc  by  no  means 
mro  in  Upper  California.  The  colour  of  this 
bird  is  nearly  white,  with  small  brown  spots 
on  the  back  and  rump.  Some  specimens  are 
met  with  whose  colour  is  purely  and  entirely 
white.  It  preys  on  plover,  geese,  and  ducks, 
which  it  strikes  while  on  the  wing  with  great 
vigour.  It  is  an  exceedingly  v'rong-wingnd 
and  powerful  bird,  and  measures  about  thirty 
inches  in  length  by  four  foct  six  inches  in  ex- 
tent. 

Several  other  of  the  Falcons  of  lesser  note 
are  found  here.  Among  these  may  be  men- 
tinned  the  Faleo  tparvcriu;  Sparrow  Hawk, 
well  known  all  over  North  Arnerica ;  the  /ViAro 
columbarim,  Pigeon  Hawk ;  ind  the  beantiful 


1 1 


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FARNHAM  ON  CALIFORNIA. 


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r  I 


Jeeipiter  phmbariui,  Gos  Hnwk,  identical 
with  the  Kuropean  species,  so  celebrated  (or 
its  use  in  the  noblo  sport  of  falconry. 

Of  the  Owls  there  are  several  species.  The 
Sirii  yirinninua.  Great  Horned  Owl,  often 
alarms  the  benighted  traveller  with  its  dis- 
cordant hootinys.  It  is  somewhat  ditrcnul 
from  its  brethren  of  the  same  sju'cies  in  tiie 
States,  the  colour  beiny;  a  deeper  and  bri<rliter 
brown.  The  Strix  tiyclien,  iiwat  Snow  Owl, 
is  Well  known  as  an  inhahiUint  of  nlniost  uil 
the  northern  parts  of  America.  It  preys  on 
rats,  birds,  and  hares,  and  is  a  very  dexlt-rous 
il^her.  Tiic  Indians,  and  »'ven  tlie  wlii'e  resi- 
dent J,  sometimes  eat  it — and,  indeed,  its  ilcsh 
i'j  very  white  and  palatjihle.  St-veral  other 
owls  inhabit  this  country,  amon<r  which  must 
be  mentioned  tiie  little  .S'/r/r  cunicularia, 
which  seems  to  reverse  the  habits  of  its  fa- 
mily, by  liviujn  in  the  burrows  of  the  praiiie 
marmot.  They  may  be  seen  in  (jreat  numbers, 
just  at  the  close  of  the  eveiiir;T,  sittin(r  at  tlie 
mouths  of  the> '  h(d(>s  on  the  sandy  plains. 

Ijuuiux  hiirmli>,  *be  Northern  Nhrikr  ;  s^ve- 
tiii  u,;.-cie8  of  'J'i/riniiiu»  and  Tyrnnr.uia,  Kly- 
Catchers ;  Morula  mii:riiloria,  the  K'liiii; 
Orpheus  felivox,  the  Pat- Bird  ;  Orji/ieua  nifiis, 
the  Brown  Thrush ;  several  Sy/vicu'te ;  .■iliiu- 
da,  the  I.ark,  one  or  two  species  ;  Emhrriza 
nii'(i/i.',i\w  Snow  Iiuntin<(.  Ir/irux  j /mnicius, 
the  Itedwinir,  are  f')unil  in  various  parts  of  the 
Califoriiias,  as  well  as  in  the  I'nited  Stales. 

I^iriii  /ci;cii/ttcra,  the  Crossbill,  is  founil  all 
over  tilt"  country  <<\  the  |'ine  forests,  and  liis- 
phiys  (.Teat  dexti  rity  in  |'ickiiiir  mitwiih  its 
curiously  cinstrucli'd  liill  llie  srcds  of  llir  pioi' 
cones,  wjiicii  arc  its  principal  fnod. 

Ciirr'is  riirn.r,  tlif  Uavrn.  is  nuinerons  in 
many  parts  of  the  (^alilornias.  and  dillVrs  not 
at  all  ill  pluinatrc  and  habits  fmni  its  brctlircti 
in  the  I'liiti'il  States,  <'iirniiiciiniiii:,lh('  i'mw, 
is  nlso  fiinnd  in  irreat  iiiiiuliers, 

(  ,lrl•f/^  yi/iv;,  the  Mairpic.  inin-h  rt'seinble.s 
in  gen.rd  appeannce  tiic  Kuropean  speeies, 
from  wli,"h  it  ilillers  ii.  si/.i ,  bei-iir  coiisidera- 
bly  larger,  "iid  its  cidours  are  nitlier  deeper, 
and  III"".  !irii!i<<nt.  It  is  i)old  and  saucy 
bird,  living  up.  n  various  kinds  <if  reptiles, 
and  evi  II  small  bit  '-,  is  fund  «f  carrion  of  all 
sorts,  and  has  often  I'-e  inipudeiici-  in  visit  tlie 
CBinp  of  the  Imnter  ano  'irry  otVbis  meat. 

(iiiniiiiis  rrisitit  i,  thi  I'lninion  lllne  .lay, 
and  aniillier  smaller  speeii  s,  |  'obably  (i.  SU!- 
leri,  are  <piite  common.  The  l.ii:<  r  sunii'tiiiies 
eongreg'iite  in  (locks  of  consiilerabh  imniber, 
and  are  lame  and  familiar,  coining  freely  'mIi; 
Uic  villages  in  search  of  food. 

Ciilti/iU.  Mej-irijiiui,  a  very  iiretly  Wood- 
pecker, is  found  in  I'pper  <'a!itiirni:i,  and  all 
along  the  Pacific  coast,  and  is,  witli  the  ex- 
...'^c;<(ion  of  an  occasional  individual  of  the 
golden  winged  species,  I'ii-tia  iiuniiu>,  \lie 
only  woodpecker  which  the  untbur  has  ob- 
served, except  a  species  at  Monterey,  xshich 
18  probably  not  yet  dcserib«'d. 

In  Honie  parts  of  California,  particularly  in 
the  south,  the  be  lutiful  ilnmining  llird  is 
<iuite  numerous.  As  far  as  the  aiilhor's  notice 
lias  extended,  the  species  arc  but  two,  the 


Troehi'i'ua  cnluMi,  Common  riumming  Bird, 
well  known  to  every  one  in  the  United  States, 
and  a  still  more  elegant  species,  7*.  rufun, 
which  seems  to  inhabit  almost  the  whole 
country,  from  \ootka  Sound  to  iIk  Rio  del 
.Norte,  in  Mexico.  This  delicate  aiir!  s|)lcndid 
little  creature  is  somewhat  less  i;,  size  than 
tlH<  common  sjiecies,  and  is  p.-rhaps  the  most 
jit  rfect  gem  in  nature.  When  si  en  glancing 
through  the  leaves,  it  resembles  the  Hash  of  a 
large  ruby. 

."^wallow  s  are  abundant,  and  of  several  spe- 
cies, ainoiiLi  which  may  btMnenti'Miiil  lliruiulo 
.7;/i<;-»rrt/K/,  the  Common  Barn  Swallow;  //. 
Uiitifrnif,  the  Clilf  Swallow,  and  the  //.  ripu- 
rid.  Bank  Swallow,  or  Sand  .Martin. 

Citj.n'iiiuliitts  f'irfri'niami.i,  the  iNight  Hawk, 
often  alarm.s  thi"  wearied  travelh  r,  near  night- 
fall, by  swooping  down  and  uttering  in  bis  r;Ir 
Its  «dd  and  startling  note,  .llcetln  jlri/on,  the 
Kingfisher,  is  seen  Hitting  over  every  little 
stream  and  wa:<>rcourse,  in  search  of  bis  scaly 
prey,  and  seems  to  be  a  com|ioni  nt  feature  in 
liie  scenery  of  every  rapid  and  walerfall. 

There  is  probably  no  country  in  the  world 
which  produces  so  many  varieties  of  the 
(iroiise..  It  in  so  great  numbers.  The  heart 
of  a  ^'ankee  s|)orl.sinan  would  alniosl  hurst 
Willi  delight  at  the  success  of  a  day's  shooting 
ill  some  parts  of  the  i..ierior  of  California. 
Ttlriiii  tiroj hii-ifiiiuH,  the  (ireat  (^ock  of  ttie 
I'lains,  second  only  in  size  and  beauty  to 
the  ci'lebrated  cock  of  the  woods  of  the  .North 
of  Kurojie,  is  very  plentiful  in  North  California, 
as  well  as  in  the  ngions  watered  by  the  Co- 
liiiiiliia  Itiver.  This  noble  bird  generally 
makes  bis  residence  in  the  barren  plain, 
among  low  bu»lies  and  brushwood,  under 
uhieh  it  runs  and  lurks,  and  is  (lushed  with 
some  diilicully,  generally  taking  wir;if  near 
enough  to  the  shooter  to  atTord  him  a  fair 
inarK.  The  cock  of  the  jdaiiis  is  about  thirty 
inches  in  length,  and  marly  four  feet  in  ex- 
tent, and  Weighs  t'roin  seven  to  ten  pounds. 
'I'lie  llesh  is  very  fine  and  delicat«'.  The 
colour  is  a  bright  gray,  varied  with  small 
lirown  spots  on  the  back  and  wings.  Another 
fine  species  is  the  'I',  nhfcunm,  Dusky  Grouse, 
;>  very  handsome  bird,  though  much  less  in 
size  than  the  preeedin<j,  ana  which,  together 
with  the  v.  ru)n»lri>,  Kock  (iroiise,  inhabits 
the  mountainous  regions  of  the  norih,  7'. 
iiinl'f'tu.i,  the  R titled  (irouse,  or  Pheasant  of 
the  Soiitliern  .States,  and  the  7'.  l'ururu.i. 
While  Tailed  Grouse  are  coinni'  n  in  differen' 
plaei's  i  have  never  met  with  <  ither  the  7 
libit  iitmlluii.  Pintail  (irouse,  or  the  '/'.  Friir/>- 
III,.',  which  are  probably  confined  to  the  mon 
reni'tii  regions  of  tiU'  north. 

'•'he  ii.ys,  inlets,  and  rivers,  are  well 
siocKfd  with  dillerint  spe<'iea  of  water  birds, 
and  t.ie  lowlands  near  lli  utlets  of  some  of 
the  streams  ;)n  the  Pacilic  coast  actually 
swarm  with  geese,  ducks,  widgeon,  teal, 
cranes,  curlews,  snipes,  and  various  other 
w.iders  and  swimmers.  Of  this  class  el 
lords,  the  infinite  variety  forbids  .  lention  but 
of  a  few  imiividuals.  'I'ho  Trhif^a,  Sand  Pi 
per ;  llic  i'huradriut.  Plover ;  the  Aunitrinut, 


FARNHAM  ON  CALIFORNIA. 


63 


Curlew;  llie  Tnlanua,  Tatler;  the  Limo$a, 
(lOilwit;  tl>P  Sculopnx,  Snipe;  the  Phiilarojiet 
the  Ldi'ix,  Uiill ;  of  each  several  species,  and 
in  ininirnsn  numbers,  throng  the  shores. 

('i/i:n^"i  l-uccinitor,  the  Swan,  is  the  brg«?st 
bird  of  tb"  country,  and  seems  to  differ  in 
nothing  trom  the  Hiiino  species  elsewhere.  Its 
colour  is  jiurri  white,  except  th;it  of  the  bill 
and  legs,  wliicii  are  black,  anil  of  the  fore- 
heaJ,  which  is  a  fine  orange.  This  is  a  splen- 
did a.<d  powerful  bird.  They  arrivo  iVoni  tlui 
far  noith  in  tho  sprin^r,  )ren«T.illy  as  early  as 
April,  and  nturn  in  October  or  November. 

A  smaller  species  of  swan  fri'(|uents  tho 
same  locality.  It  resembles  the  last  men- 
tioned, e.xcejit  in  size,  beio'jf  considerably 
smaller,  and  in  its  note,  which  is  (juite  differ- 
ent. This  may  be  the  C.  Ikitie.kii.  Doujrlas 
speaks  of  a  third  variety,  found  ni'ar  the  (Jo- 
lumhia,  and  which  he  describes  as  e(|ual  in 
size  to  the  common  swan,  of  a  bluish  (rray  on 
the  back,  and  white  on  th(>  belly, and  he  stat(.>s 
thill  this'  colour  is  "preserved  in  all  stajjes  of 
its  f;r'  will."  This  is  probably  a  mistake. 
Tliiu  inilividii!'.!  ■  an8werin<>;  this  descriptioti 
are  found,  there  is  no  doubt,  but  they  seem  to 
be  the  youu'j'  of  the  first  ipontioned  species. 

(•eese  are  abundant  in  siui'lar  pla<Ms,  and 
their  term  of  residence  in  the  launlry,  and 
of  mii;raiion,  appears  to  be  the  sami-  with 
those  of  the  swan.  The  specie,  which  have 
corne  under  the  author's  oi)Sfr\alion  are  the 
Amtr  ul'ilfroiin,  I<'.tu<>;liin<r  (ioose;  .f.Cunmlcn- 
«/»,  the  Common  Wild  Cioose;  .7.  hypcrhureus, 
the  Snow  Cioose,  and  A.  Iirrnacln,  the  Hrant. 

Ptlirnniis  onorroliiliit,  tho  White  Pelican,  is 
sometimes  seen  in  various  places  on  the  coast. 
A  llock  of  these  birds,  stsuidinK  in  a  line  on 
the  very  verge  of  the  sandy  sliore,  is  a  fine 
Hight ;  their  pure  white  colour  and  lofty  sta- 
ture tnakin)r  them  visible  at  a  great  disuince. 
The  peculiar  habits  of  tho  pelican  have  often 
been  described,  and  nothing  new  can  be  addwl 
as  havinjr  come  under  tho  special  ol)servation 
of  the  author.  Large  numbers  frccjudil  the 
harbours,  and  resort  much  to  the  little  island 
of  Alcatrasses,  which  is  covered  with  their 
exuviif. 

Off  the  Pacific  coast  may  he  seen  the  huge 
Albatross,  so  well  known  to  seamen,  on  almost 
all  |)arts  of  the  deep.  Tliese  can  often  be  taken 
by  throwing  a  hook  over  the  side  of  llie  ves- 
sel, baited  with  a  piece  of  pork, or  olberineat. 
Tiiiir  von.  iiy  is  so  excessive  that  they  will 
ijiiarrel  for  |iossessi(^n  of  the  |)ri7.e  which 
I  .)sls  its  nnfortunat«!  captor  so  Ji'ar.  There 
are  two  species.  Diimtdea  txuliiiii,  andy'i//«««- 
ivi»a.  Speennens  are  sumrlimes  seen  of  the 
most  enormous  size,  measuring  nearly  four 
I'eet  in  hngtii,  and  from  ten  to  twelve  across 
the  wings. 

There  are  probably  many  yet  undescrihed 
binis  and  (quadrupeds  in  this  country.  The 
author's  sket«;hes  tn  this  department  are  neces- 
sarily rather  those  of  a  •raveller  than  a  natural- 
ist, and  he  has  been  obliged  to  content  him- 
■telf  with  mentioning  tuuse  species  which 
casually  cnme  within  his  own  notice.  It  is 
very  probrtblo  that  many  inaccuracies  may  be 

a 


detected,  both  in  his  nomenclature  and  descrip- 
tions, but  these  may  be  excused  by  the  cir- 
cumstances under  which  his  notes  wore  taken, 
bis  lack  of  books  of  reference,  and  his  imper- 
fi'ct  acijuaintance  with  the  science  of  zoology. 
The  forejroing  outlines  of  the  natural  history 
of  the  Califoniias  must  therefore  be  considered 
as  possessing  little  pretension  to  the  notice  of 
the  si'ienlific  student,  but  only  as  a  part  of  the 
genenil  plan  of  the  author,  in  giving  a  brief 
account  of  the  n^ost  striking  objects  which 
offered  themselves  directly  to  bis  observation, 
and  as  being  intended  merely  for  the  eye  of  tho 
general  reader.  Indeed,  it  would  a  useless 
as  well  as  a  presumptuous  tisk,  to  attempt,  in 
a  book  of  this  kind,  an  elaborate  description 
of  the  natural  productions  of  the  (^alifornias; 
and  the  more  so  in  regard  to  one  portion  at 
least  of  those  produotion**,  since  the  announce- 
ment of  the  intended  issue  of  a  work  which, 
for  tho  eleg.uico  and  costliness  of  its  design, 
the  skill  and  research  displayed  in  its  con- 
tents, and  tiie  well-earned  celebrity  of  its  prin- 
cipal autlior,  will  |)rob,ibly  be  unsurpassed  by 
liny  similar  undert-iking.  "  T/ie  rivi/mroua 
(^uadrupidx  of  .Xarlh  .Imrrica,'"  now  in  course 
of  publieatiou,  will  undoubtedly  add  a  crown- 
ing laurel  t)  the  already  well-adorned  brow 
of  John  J.  Audubon. 

Fish. — There  are,  perhaps,  no  waters  in  the 
world  so  productive  of  fish  as  those  of  the 
ralifornias,  and  of  the  regions  still  farther  to 
the  iinrtli.  Imnu'nse  numbers,  and  every  va- 
riety of  sea  fish  swarm  in  thi;  Pacific  coast, 
and  th<>  rivers  an-  densely  |>opulati'd  with 
several  valuable  species. 

The  ralifornia  tinlf  produces  also  great 
numbers  of  edible  shell-fish.  The  Oyster,  the 
Pearl-sludl,lhe  Muscle,  several  siieeies  of  Ha- 
liotis,  all  afforil  either  food  or  articles  of  trade 
and  ornament  to  the  inhabitants.  In  I'ppcr 
California  fish  are  generally  little  s((Ui.fbi  after, 
the  i)roduetioiis  of  the  earth  being  so  luiinerous 
and  plentitiil  ;  but  in  the  colder  regions  of  the 
north,  they  afford  tin*  common,  and  sometimes 
the  sole  subt  istence  of  tho  natives.  In  the 
Columbia,  as  well  as  in  the  San  Joaqnim  and 
Sacramento  rivers,  and  in  almost  every  water- 
course having  its  outlet  in  the  sea,  tlie  num- 
bers i){'  Sti.'mii,  {Srfiiiuhii,)  .Salmon,  ;ir<'  almost 
incri.'dible.  On  some  of  tliese  rivers  iVom  two 
to  llirec  thousand  are  soui'-limes  taken  in  a 
single  day.  The  Indians  someiimes  e.ipture 
them  witli  a  kind  of  wicker  basket,  Kimiliir  to 
that  used  by  .he  fishermen  on  the  Ailantic 
const  tor  taking  lobsteis.  'I'his  is  done  in  the 
spring,  w  Inn  the  lisli  are  on  their  passaire  up 
the  stream.  Tiny  are  also  taken  with  the 
spear,  which  consists  of  a  sharp  piece  of  uonc 
fusU-ned  to  the  end  of  a  shaft  of  wood  twelve 
or  fifteen  feet  in  length, and  which  the  Indians 
use  with  great  dexterity,  freiiuently  securing 
salmon  ot  from  twenty  to  liiirty  nounds  in 
weight.  The  fish  are  dried  or  saltefl.and  pre- 
served for  Allure  use.  They  are  also  some* 
times  t;iki>n  with  only  a  Hinall  s(*ooi)  net,  fas- 
tened U)  the  emi  of  a  pule.  Douglas  speitks 
of  an  individual  measured  by  him,  which  was 
three  feet  five  inches  lung,  and  ten  inches 
r2 


/ 


•*,»-' 


M 


FARNHAM  ON  CAUFORNIA. 


lit 


i  i 
^-1 


I  ri. 


rl 


broad,  t.  dighiitff  thirty-five  pounds.  The 
author  can  vouch  for  tho  fact  that  this  aize  is 
not  exaggerated,  having  often  seen  specimens 
nearly  or  quite  as  large.  Some  of  the  streams 
also  abound  with  very  fine  salmon  trout,  and 
with  a  small  trout  nearly  resembling  the  one 
which  affords  so  much  sport  to  the  anglers  of 
the  United  States. 

Jtdptmer  trantmonlanui,  the  Sturccon, 
sometimes  attains  great  size  in  tho  large 
rivers,  bring  from  eight  to  ten  feet  in  length, 
and  weighing  nearly  five  hundred  pounds.  In 
general,  however,  this  fish  is  of  much  smaller 
dimensions.  It  is  principally  found  not  fur 
from  the  months  of  the  rivers. 

In  the  Bay  of  Monterey  is  a  specifs  of 
Mackerel,  Seutn'ier  coliai,  in  great  plenty,  and 
easily  taken.  H'-re,  as  well  as  in  most  other 
parts  of  the  coast,  also  swim  schools  of  a 
small  fish  resemhling,  if  not  identical  with, 
the  Sardine  of  Italy,  familiar  to  epicures. 
These  are  sometimes  seen  in  such  immense 
numbers  that  the  surface  of  tVe  water  for  a 
great  distance  around,  resembles  a  living 
mass,  being  kept  in  constant  commotion  by 
their  fins.  Porpoises  are  verj'  numerous  in 
almost  every  bay  on  the  whole  coast,  and  in 
foul  weather  may  always  be  seen  playing  their 
pranks  on  the  waves ;  while  far  in  the  ofling 
appears  the  spouting  of  the  huge  whale. 

The  Halibut,  Pilchard,  Skate.Turbot,  Bonito, 
and  many  other  species,  are  found  in  >'arious 
parts  of  the  sea-coast.  The  shell-fish  are  nume- 
rous and  valuable,  particularly  in  the  gulf.  Of 
these  may  be  mentioned,  Oysters,  which  are 
often  of  large  size  and  excellent  tiavonr.  Mus- 
cles, several  specits  of  Haliotis,  Patella,  Car- 
dium,  r  id  Turbo,  besides  Mi/n  marnnriliftra, 
the  Pea  Oyster,  the  product  of  which,  as  an 
artielo  o'  commerce,  is  well  known.  Tho 
pearls  produced  by  these  shell-fish  are,  in  this 
exuinlry,  of  very  fine  ivatcr,  though  rather  irre- 
gular in  figure. 

Plamts.— The  Cnlifornias  offer  n  very  inte- 
resting and  but  partially  explored  field  of  re- 
search to  the  botanist.  Almost  every  variety 
of  vegetation,  from  the  luxuriant  pruductions 
of  the  tropics  to  the  stinted  and  scanty  growth 
of  the  frozen  regions,  mav  be  found  in  this 
country.  The  labours  if  bouglas  and  others 
have  made  known  to  the  world  many  of  the 
most  valuable  and  remarkable  species.  Of 
these  it  is  possible  here  to  mention  only  a 
few.  Of  Uie  Pine  and  Oak  there  an-  several 
noble  and  useful  varieties,  in  differcrt  parts 
of  the  country.  One  of  these,  I'imn  Ihu- 
gloiii,  first  described  by  Douglas,  is  probably 
ihe  grandest  of  the  whole  vegetable  kingdom. 
It .»  fou'.id  on  the  mountains  about  the  Bay  of 
San  Francisco,  on  the  highlands  near  the  upper 
branchea  of  the  Colorado  River,  and  in  some 
other  sections  of  Upper  California,  generally 
on  elevated  localities.  My  readers  must  not 
tliink  of  Baron  Munchausen,  when  I  offer  to 
vouch  for  the  fact  that  specimens  of  this  tree 
occur  of  the  height  of  two  hundivd  and  forty 
feet,  the  base  of  whose  tninki  have  ■  circum- 
ference of  nearly  sixty  feet.  The  trunk  is 
Quite  destitute  of  branches,  until  above  more 


than  half  the  altitude,  when  they  grow  oniJ 
ward  and  upward  In  such  a  manner  as  to  girJ 
the  top  the  form  of  an  Inverted  pyramid.l 
From  the  ends  of  the  branches  hang  the  confti 
or  seed-vessels,  from  twelve  to  fifteen  inehnl 
in  length,  and  egg-shaped.  The  seeds  are  ai| 
large  as  a  good-sized  bean,  and  furnish  a  con 
mon  article  of  food  to  the  Indians,  whocollrrj 
large  quantities  of  them  in  the  autumn,  an4 

Cound  them  into  a  kind  of  cake,  which  ii^ 
aked  on  heateil  stones.  The  wood  is  verrs 
fine-grained,  and  contains  a  great  quantity  oi| 
resin. 

The  Pinus  Sabinit,  J'.  Lamherliana,  P.  n*^ 
ii7i»,  and   P.  rextnota,  are  also  fine  spccipi. 
though  less  in  size  than  their  gigantic  relative 
The  former  is,  however,  a  large  tree,  bein; 
often  found  one  hundred  and  ten  feet  liigh,ani: 
from  ten  to  twelve  in  diameter.     Among  tlx 
elevated  plains  of  Upper  California  it  growii 
quite  plentifully,  as  also  on  the   low  hilki 
near  the  coast,  where  it  attains  a  larger  sivT 
The  natives  frequently  build  their  fires  againtil 
these  trees  to  save  tne  trouble  of  eollectinjj 
fuel.     By  this  means,  also,  a  sweet  gum  iJ 
made  to  exude  from  the  trunk,  which  serreil 
them  for  sugar. 

The  White  Oak  grows  on  the  low  and  levfil 
parts  of  the  country.  It  is  not  generally  il 
arge  tree,  being  from  forty  to  fifty  feet  higk.J 
and  from  two  to  three  feet  in  diameter  at  thJ 
base.  The  top  is  extremely  thick  and  leafj.l 
forming  an  almost  impenetrablo  mass  (il| 
boughs.     It  is  in  some  places  very  abundant^ 

I'he  QurrciM  navalin  occupies  the  prairiH| 
river  banks,  and  lower  hills,  and  is  four 
five  feet  in  diameter,  with  branches  of  corn 
ponding  dimensions,  extending   horizontalltl 
from  the  trunk.    The  Live  Oak,  Q,  virtn\ 
grows  only  on  the  highlands.     It  i^^  from  twi| 
to  five  feet  in  thickness,  and   from  sixty  i 
seventy  in  height.    The  Maple,  the  Ash,  tlni 
Beech,  the  Chestnut,  in  several  varieties,  cob 
pose  large  portions  of  the  forests. 

It  is  impossible  to  give  a  full  description  rJ 
the  flowering  shrubs  and  plants  of  Upper  CalJ 
fornia,  so  great  is  their  variety  and  bcauijJ 
We  have  only  space  to  notice  a  few  of  iti«| 
most  conspicuous.  A  species  of  Raspbt-rnl 
Hibtt  »peeioium,  is  one  of  the  most  ele^iJ 
flowering  shrubs  of  the  country.  It  is  exceffrj 
ingly  abundant  in  8i)me  localities,  atid,'wi!!| 
its  long  crimson  itamens,  and  its  deep  gntii 
leaves,  presents  a.;  appearance  truly  IovpIm 
The  flowers  bloom  early  in  spring.  The  fni:| 
I  have  not  seen  In  many  places  are  foiinij 
several  species  of  Mimuhu,  one  of  which 
from  three  to  four  feet  in  height,  and  is  a  vml 
showy  plant.  This  country  also  has  niin»>l 
rous  species  of  Phlox  and  Heuehera,  and  innn^j 
merabie  quantities  of  EpUobium^  JSnothera,  ol 
Primrose,  Pentttemon,  Paptivrr,  or  Poprjf 
Jitlpkinium,  and  SaMa.  A  species  of  l.ii^ 
also  grows  here,  the  roots  of  which  are  eai*;! 
by  the  natives.  The  &t7Ai  eetulenta  gro»il 
along  the  whole  eoaat  of  Upper  Cali^mnf 
This  is  called,  by  the  mtivet,  "  Quam(ul'\ 
and  the  root  forms  a  very  eoromon  article  <ii 
food.    To  prepara  thia  for  eating,  a  hole 


m 


FARNHAM  ON  CAUFORNIA. 


67 


Bn  they  grow  outJ 
manner  as  to  giTil 
inverted   pyramidl 
168  hang  the  condl 
)  to  fifteen  inrli(H| 
The  seedR  are  <ii| 
ind  furnish  a  con 
radians,  whocollpfi 
1  the  autumn,  aiMl 
)r  cake,  which  iil 
The  wood  is  vpna 
I  great  quantity  oil 

Aimbrrtiana,  P.  nfr>*| 
also  fine  specie*, 
'ir  gigantic  rclatitf, 
a  large  tree,  bein; 
id  tun  feet  liigh,anii 
ncter.     Among  ih* 
California  it  growi ; 
on  the   low  hilk| 
tains  a  larger  siw.J 
Id  their  fires  againitl 
"ouhle  of  coUectiD!! 
10,  a  sweet  gum  \\ 
trunk,  which  serTHi 


'. 


made  in  the  ground,  and  a  number  of  stones 

E laced  in  it,  on  which  a  fire  is  kindled  and 
ept  burning  until  they  are  made  hot,  when 
the  fire  is  extinguished,  and  the  roots,  wrapped 
in  straw,  leaves,  and  moss,  are  placed  upon 
them.  They  are  well  roasted  in  a  few  hours, 
and  are  then  taken  oflf  and  hung  up  to  dry. 
This  root  is  also  sometimes  pounded  and  mudo 
into  cakes,  which  are  preserved  for  future  usn. 
Tiie  taste  is  sweet,  and  rather  agreeable,  but 
if  eaten  too  freely  they  are  apt  to  produce  diar- 
rhoea. This  plant  is  most  abundant  on  tlio 
banks  of  rivers  and  on  lowlands  by  the  mar- 

irins  of  forests,  in  which  localities  an;  also 
ound  several  species  of  Pt/rola,  Caprifulium, 
[and  Lupinui,  which  sometimes  cover  an  im- 
[mense  extent  of  land.    The  Jrbuttu  is  also 
[abundant  in  similar  situations.     The  large 
[species,  J.  yrorera,  is  a  fine  shrub,  frequently 
[attaining  a  growth  which   entitles  it  to  be 
Icalled  a  tree.    The  J.  uvit  urti  is  found  in 
lalmost  every  part  of  the  colder  sections  of  the 
country,  and  its  berries  are  fremiently  eaten 
by  the  natives,  and  even  by  travellers.  A  very 
useful  plant  to  the  natives  is  the  llthmitu  Unax, 
|lhe  fibres  of  which  are  stronger  than  any  hemp, 
yords  made  of  this  are  used  by  the  Indians  for 
he  purpose  of  snaring  deer,  and  other  ani- 
nals;  and  one  the  thickness  of  the  little  fin- 
der is  so  strong  as  not  to  be  broken  by  the 
irgest  elk. 
The  Gooseberry  grows  in  Upper  California, 
nd  bears   plentifully.      The  sand-hills  and 
Boors  are  covered  with  a  great  variety  of  Syn- 
enesious  plants,  and  on  the  more  fertile  and 
lumid  soil  grows  a  gaudy-flowered  Currant- 
lush,  and  a  pretty  species  of  Honeysuckle, 
ferhapsthe  most  remarkable  shrub  here  is  the 
fedra,  a  poisonous  plant,  which,  however,  af- 
cts  some  particular  constitutions  only.     By 
gntact  with  the  skin,  it  produces  tumours  and 
lolent  inflammation.     It  is  a  slender  shrub, 
eferring  cool  and  shady  places,  and  bearing 
[trefoil  crenated  leaf.     Two  roots — the  jplantu 
f  which  I  have  not  seen— «re  used  by  the  na- 
res  for  soap;  these  are  called  Jnutle  and 
lima/c.     On  the  rocky  coast  south  of  Monte- 
are  immense  collections  of  sea-weed,  Fu- 
ipyri/orm$,  which  arc  said  to  have  gatliered 
tre  in  such  abundance  as  to  have  saved 


several  vessels  from  splitting  on  the  rocks, 
when  driven  on  them  by  the  tempest. 

MiNKRALs. — ^The  mineral  wealth  of  the 
Californias  has  not  been  examined  by  persons 
capable  of  forming  a  correct  idea  of  its  nature 
and  extent.  The  imperfect  observations  of 
travellers,  embe'>lished  by  the  eager  love  of 
the  precious  mttxlB,  are  not  to  be  relied  on. 
Some  facts,  however,  exist,  which  having  been 
well  and  of\en  observed,  may  be  mentioned. 

A  very  fine  article  of  bituminous  coal  has 
been  discovered  in  the  neighbourhood  of  San 
Francisco ;  and  indications  of  its  existence  in 
other  parts  of  the  country  are  numerous  and 
well  marked. 

A  quicksilver  mine  is  said  to  exist  near  the 
mountains  east  of  Monterey,  which,  if  we 
may  believe jeport,  is  the  richest  in  the  world. 

A  silver  mine  has  been  discovered  a  short 
distance  from  Monterey.  This  affords  a  very 
rich  ore,  and  easily  wrought.  The  author  saw 
spoons  and  other  articles  made  of  the  products 
of  this  mine. 

There  is  a  gold  mine  situate  near  the  Pueblo 
de  los  Angelos,  which  is  very  rich.  The  ore 
was  tested  by  mv  friend  Doctor  Lyman,  and 
was  found  to  yield  more  than  ninety  per  ce.it. 
The  inhabitants  have  observed  very  extensive 
veins  of  gold  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Bay  of  San 
Francisco,  and,  indeed,  in  many  other  parts 
of  this  beautiful  land.  In  Lower  California 
there  are  several  mines,  which  the  people  are 
working  in  a  rude  way,  but  with  considerable 
profit  Virgin  silver  and  gold  are  o(\en  found 
in  consideraule  Quantities.  No  doubt  is  enter* 
tained  by  those  best  acouainted  with  the  Call* 
fornias,  that  they  will  become,  when  science 
shall  be  applied  in  the  development  of  their 
wealth,  one  of  the  richest  mineral  provinces 
of  America  This  belief  is  much  strengthened 
by  the  fact,  that  the  Indians,  whenever  they 
choose,  can  bring  into  the  settlements  large 
quantities  of  these  ores,  which  they  either  find 
on  the  surface,  or  prv  from  the  crevices  of  the 
rocks  with  sharpened  sticks,  bones,  or  hunting 
knives.  They  cannot  be  induced  to  show  the 
whites  where  they  obtain  these,  on  account  of 
an  old  traditional  superstition,  that  if  they 
should  do  so,  they  would  immediately  die.— 
Pp.  380—403. 


^  I 


EXTRACT  FROM  THE  TRESIDENT'S  MESSAGE 

To  (he  Senate  and  House  nf  Rrprestntativrs,  in  Congreaa  assembled,  Dec.  6,  \HA%. 


Ilk   !. 


It  waa  known  tliat  mines  of  the  precious 
metals  existed  to  u  considt-rablo  extent  in 
California  at  the  time  of  its  uoiiuisition.  Re- 
cent (liscoverii's  rt'iuler  it  jirohable  that  these 
mines  are  more  extensivi?  uii<i  valuable  than 
was  anticipated.  Tiie  accouuts  of  ilie  abun- 
dance of  gold  in  that  territory  are  of  such  an 
extraordinary  eliar.ieter  as  would  scarcely  com- 
mand belief,  were  tliey  not  corroborated  by  the 
authentic  reports  of  oflicers  in  the  public  ser- 
vice, who  have  visited  tin;  niiiural  district, 
and  derived  the  liicts  which  tliey  detail  from 
personal  observalinn.  Heluctant  to  credit  the 
reports  in  general  circulation  as  to  the  quantity 
01  gold,  the  officer  conimandinjr  our  forces  in 
California  visited  the  niinenil  district  in  July 
last,  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  accurate  in- 
formation on  the  subject.  His  report  to  the 
War  Department  of  the  result  of  his  examina- 
tion, and  the  facts  obtained  on  the  spot,  is  here- 
with laid  before  (."ougress.  When  he  visited 
the  country,  there  were  about  tour  thousand 
persons  engaged  in  colleetiug  gold.  There  is 
every  reason  to  believe  that  the  number  of  por- 
sons  so  employed  has  since  been  augmented. 
The  explorations  already  mi-le  warnuit  the 
belief  that  the  i.upply  is  very  large,  and  that 
gold  is  found  in  various  jdaces  in  extensive 
districts  of  country. 

Information  received  from  officers  of  the 
navy,  and  other  sources,  though  not  so  full 
and  min\ite,  confirm  the  accounts  of  the  com- 
mander of  our  military  force  in  California.  It 
ajipears  also,  from  these  reports,  that  mines  of 
quicksilver  are  found  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
gold  region.  One  of  them  is  now  being 
Worked,  ami  is  believed  t.)  lie  among  the  most 
productivi'  in  the  world. 

'I'he  effects  pmduced  by  the  discovery  of 
these  rich  mineral  deposits,  ami  the  success 
whicli  lias  allendeil  the  labours  of  those  who 
have  resortf  fl  to  them,  have  produceil  a  sur- 
jirising  cliange  in  tlie  state  of  affairs  in  Cali- 
t'ornia.  Labour  eniuuiands  a  nioht  exorbiU'iUt 
price,  and  all  other  pursuits  but  tliat  of  search- 
68 


ing  for  the  preciocs  metals  are  abandoned. 
Nearly  the  whole  of  the  male  population  of  thi* 
country  have  gone  to  the  gold  district.  Ships 
arriving  on  the  coast  are  deserted  by  their 
crews,  and  their  voyages  suspended  for  want 
of  sailors.  Our  coir  Tianding  officer  tliere  enter- 
taiins  npjirehensions  that  soldiers  cannot  be  kept 
in  the  public  servic»>  without  a  large  increase 
of  pay.  Desertions  in  his  command  have  be- 
come frequiMit,  and  he  recoinnifrnds  that  tlioso 
who  shall  withstand  the  strong  tempt;itionK, 
ami  remain  faithful,  ''hould  be  rewarded. 

This  aliundance  of  gold,  and  the  all-engross- 
ing pursuit  of  it,  have  already  caused  in  Cali- 
fornia an  unprecedented  rise  in  the  jirice  ol 
the  necessaries  of  life. 

That  we  may  tlie  more  speedily  and   fullr  j 
avail  ourselves  of  the  undeveloped  wealth  oi 
!  these  mines,  it  is  deemed  of  vast  important 
that  a  bmnch  of  the  mint  of  the  United  States, 
be  authorized   to  be  est<iblished,  at  yourpre-j 
■sent   session,    in    California.      Among   othfrj 
signal  advantages   which   would  result  fronj 
I  such  anestiiblishment  would  be  that  of  raisincl 
1 1".    gold  to  its  par  value  in  that  Territory,    .(f 
!  branch  mint  of^  the  United  States  at  the  grpaj 
commercial  depot  on  the  west  co^ist,  woulil 
;  convert  into  our  own  coin  not  only  the  gol  [ 
J  derived  from  our  own  rich  mines,  but  also  tjil 
bullion  and  specie  which   our  commerce  raaj 
i  bring  from  the  whole  weyt  coast  of  ''^cnlnl 
and  South  America.     The  west  coast  of  An 
rica  and  the  adjacent  interior  embrace  the  nrkl 
est  and  best  mines  of  Mexico,  New  Grenai'if 
j  Central  America,  Chili  and  Peru. 

The  bullion  and  specie  drawn  from  thf*| 
'countries,  and  espt'cially  from  tliose  of  V',,>»;| 
I  em  .Mexico  and  Peru,  to  an  amount  in  vali^ 
i  of  many  millions  of  dollars,  are  now  anmial'l 
;  diverted  and  carried  by  the  ships  of  Gri;] 
;  Uritain  to  her  own  ports,  to  bo  ret-iined 
!  u<ed  to  susUiin  her  National  Hank,  ir 
thus  contribute  to  increase  her  abil  ly 
I  eoiiimand  so  much  of  the  commerce  of' 
I  world. 


■Kli     i^U    I 


•« 


^^.J    1 


CALIFORNIA  AND  HER  GOLP. 


Th«  following  is  a  letter  from  Col.  R.  B.  : 
Maann,  of  the  l8t  U.  S.  dragoons,  and  accom-  * 
panics  the  Heport  of  the  Secretiiry  of  War.    It 
will  bo  found  replete  with  interest :  j 

IlE.»I>^irAHTl:RB.   IOtTI   MlI.ITAIlV   Pvp'T.  )         ! 

Moutcrej,  CikllfnrniR,  Ang.  17,  1R4«.  J  I 
Sir — 1  have  the  honour  to  inform  you  that, 
accomi>aniod  hy  Lieut.  W.  T.  Sherman,  3d 
Artillery,  A.  A.  A.  General,  I  started  on  the 
I'Jth  of  Jime  last  t'>  make  a  tour  through  the  ' 
northern  part  of  California.  My  principal  ' 
purpose,  iiowever,  was  to  visit  the  newly  dis- , 
covered  gold  "  placer,"  in  the  valley  of  tho 
Sacramento.  I  had  proceeded  about  forty 
miles,  wlien  I  was  overtaken  hy  an  express, 
bringing  me  intelligence  of  the  arrival  at  Mon- 
terey of  the  United  Suites  ship  Southampton, 
with  important  letters  from  (Commodore  Shu- 
brick,  and  Lieut,  ('ol.  Harton.  I  returned  at 
once  to  Monterey,  and  despatched  what  busi- 
ness was  most  important,  and  on  tho  ITtli  re- 
sumed my  journey.  We  reached  San  Fran- 
cisco on  the  'JOth,  and  found  tliat  all,  or  nearly 
all,  its  male  inhahitiints  had  gone  to  the  mines. 
The  town,  which  a  few  months  befort-  Wiis  so 
busy  and  thriving,  was  then  almost  deserted. 
On  the  evening  of  the  24tli,  the  horses  of  the 
eseort  were  crossed  to  Sousoleto  in  a  launch, 
and  oil  the  following  day  we  resuiiied  the 
I  journey,  by  way  of  Hodeg;),  and  Senoina,  to 
Sutter's  Fort,  where  we  arrived  on  the  iiioni- 
ing  (if  the  3d  of  July.  Along  the  whole 
route,  mills  were  lying  idle,  lields  of  wheat 
were  open  to  cattle  ana  horses,  houses  vacant, 
and  laniis  going  to  waste.  At  Sutter's  there 
WHS  iiuire  life  and  business.  Launches  were 
disiharging  their  cargoes  at  the  river,  and 
were  hiiuliiig  goods  to  the  fort,  where  already 
w,-»ro  established  several  stores,  a  hotel,  &c. 
Cijifain  Sutter  had  only  two  mechanics  in  his 
einjiloy,  u  wagon-maker  and  a  blacksmith, 
wli(  m  he  *v;is  then  paying  #10  a  day.  Mer- 
chu'its  pay  him  a  monthly  rent  of  ijtIOl)  pir 
room  :  and,  whilst  I  was  there,  a  two  story 
h'-iise  in  the  lort  was  rented  as  a  hotel,  tor 
^jtHl  a  month. 

At  the  urgent  solicitation  of  many  gentle- 
men, 1  delayed  there  to  participate  in  the  first 
pnlilic  celebration  of  our  national  anniversary 
at  that  fort,  but  on  the  .'itii  resumed  tlit^  jour- 
ney, and  proceeded  twenty-five  miles  up  the 
American  t'ork,  to  a  point  on  it  now  known  as 
the  Lower  Mines,  or  Mormon  Diggin.".  The 
hill  sides  .vere  thickly  strewn  wit!-  anvp" 
tents  and  bush  arbours;  a  store  wn  .  .iied, 
and  several  boarding  shanties  in  c  ration. 
The  day  was  intensely  hot,  yet      jut  two 


hundred  men  were  at  work  in  the  full  glare  of 
the  sun,  washing  for  gold — some  with  tin 
pans,  some  with  close  woven  Indian  baskets, 
but  the  greater  part  had  a  rude  machine, 
known  as  the  cradle. 

This  is  on  rockers,  six  or  eight  feet  long, 
open  at  the  foot,  and  at  its  head  has  a  coarse 
grate  or  sievr ;  the  bottom  is  rounded,  with 
small  elects  iiiiled  across.  Four  men  are  re- 
<|uired  to  work  this  machine;  one  digs  the 
ground  in  the  bank  close  by  the  stream  ;  an- 
other carries  it  to  the  cradle  mid  empties  it  on 
the  grate ;  a  third  gives  a  violent  rocking  mo- 
tion to  the  machine ;  whilst  a  fourth  dashes 
on  water  from  the  stream  itself.  'I'he  sieve 
keeps  the  coarse  stones  from  entering  tho  cra- 
dle, the  current  of  water  washes  off  the  earthy 
matter,  and  the  gmvel  is  gmdiially  carried  out 
at  the  foot  of  the  machine,  leaving  the  gold 
mixed  with  a  heavy  fine  black  sand  above  the 
first  elects. 

The  s and  and  gold  mixed  togetlier  arc  then 
drawn  off  through  augur  holes  into  a  pan  be- 
low, are  dried  in  the  sun,  and  afterwards  sepa- 
rated by  blowing  off  the  san<l.  A  party  of  four 
men  thus  employed,  at  the  lower  mines,  ave- 
niged  !5t|()()  a  day.  The  Indians,  and  those 
who  have  nothing  but  pans,  or  willow  bas- 
kets, gradually  wash  out  the  earth,  and  sepa- 
r.ile  the  gr.ivel  by  hand,  leaving  nothing  but 
the  gold  mixed  with  sand,  whicli  is  separated 
in  the  manner  before  described.  The  gold  in 
the  lower  mines  is  in  fine  bright  scales,  of 
which  I  send  several  specimens. 

As  we  ascended  the  south  branch  of  the 
American  fork,  tho  country  became  more 
broken  and  mountainous,  and  at  the  saw-mill, 
twenty-five  miles  above  tho  lower  washing*', 
or  fifty  miles  from  Sutter's,  the  hills  rise  to 
about  a  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
Saerdineuto  plain.  Here  a  species  of  pine  oc- 
curs, which  led  to  the  discovery  of  the  gold. 
Ciijtt.  Sutler,  feeling  the  great  want  of  lum- 
ber, eonlrieted,  in  September  last,  with  a  Mr. 
Marshall,  to  build  a  saw-mill  at  that  place. 
It  was  erected  in  the  course  of  the  last  winter 
and  spring — a  dam  and  race  constructed  ;  but 
when  the  water  was  let  on  tho  wheels,  the 
tho  tiiil  race  was  fouml  to  bo  too  narrow  to 
|)eriiiit  the  w<ter  to  escape  with  suflicient 
rapidity. 

.Mr.  .MarKhall,  to  save  labour,  let  the  water 
directly  into  the  race,  with  a  strong  current, 
so  as  to  wash  it  wider  and  dnt  per.  He  effected 
his  purpo.se,  and  a  large  bed  of  mud  and  gravel 
was  carried  to  the  foot  of  the  race.  One  day 
Mr.  Marshall,  as  he  was  walking  down  the 


/■■  ^ 


w 


70 


CALIFORNIA  AND  HER  GOLD. 


m 


|i     ! 


h 


race  to  this  deposit  of  mud,  observed  some 
glittering^  particles  at  its  upper  edge ;  he  ga- 
thered a  few,  examined  tliem,  and  became 
satisfied  of  their  value.  He  then  went  to  the 
fort,  told  Captain  Sutter  of  his  discovery,  and 
they  agreed  to  keep  it  secret,  until  a  certain 
grist-mill  of  Sutter's  was  finished.  It,  how- 
ever, got  out,  and  spread  like  mngic.  Re- 
markable success  attended  the  labnurs  of  the 
first  explorers,  and  in  a  few  weeks  hundreds 
of  men  were  drawn  thither.  At  the  time  of 
my  visit,  but  little  more  than  three  months 
a<^r  its  first  discovery,  it  was  estimated  that 
upwards  of  four  thousand  people  were  em- 
ployed. At  the  mill  there  is  a  fine  deposit  or 
bank  of  gravel,  which  the  people  respect  as 
the  property  of  Capt.  Sutter,  although  he  pre- 
tenas  to  no  right  to  it,  and  would  be  perfectly 
satisfied  with  the  simple  promise  of  a  pre- 
emption, on  account  of  the  mill,  which  he  has 
built  there  at  considerable  cost. 

Mr.  Marshall  was  living  near  the  mill,  and 
fnformed  me  that  many  persons  were  employed 
above  and  below  him,  and  they  used  the  same 
machines  at  the   lower  washings,  and   that 
their  success  was  about  the  same— ranging 
from  one  to  three  ounces  of  gold  per  man, 
daily.    This  gold,  ton,  is  in  scales  a  little 
coarser  than  those  of  the  lower  mines.     From 
the  mill,   Mr.  Mnrshsill   guided   me  up   the 
mountain  on  the  opposite  or  north  hank  of  the 
south  fork,  where,  in  a  b^d  of  small  streams  j 
and  ravines,  now  dry,  a  great  deal  of  coarse: 
gold   has   been   found.     I   saw  there  several  > 
parties  at  work,  all  of  whom  were  doing  very  : 
well ;  a  great  many  specimens  were  shown 
me,  some  as  heavy  as  four  or  five  ounces  in 
weight,  and  I  send  three  pieces,  labelled  No.  | 
5,  presented  by  a  Mr.  Spence.  j 

You  will  perceive  that  some  of  the  speci- 
mens accompanying  this,  hold  mechanically  j 
pieces  of  quartz ;  that  the  surface  is  rough,  I 
and  evidently  moulded   in  the  crevice  of  a 
rock.    This  gold  cannot  have  been  carried  far 
by  water,  but  must  have  remained!  near  where 
it  was  first  deposited  from  the  rock  that  once 
bound  it.    1  inmiired  of  many  people  if  they  , 
hid  encountered  the  metal  in  its  matrix,  but  in 
every  instance  they  Haid  they  had  not,  but  that 
the  gold  was  invariably  mixed  with  washed 
gravel,  or  lodged   in   the  crevices  of  other : 
rocks.      All   bore   testimony  that  they   had , 
found  gold  in  greater  or  lesH  i|UHntitii's  in  the 
numerous  small  gullies  or  mvines  that  occur 
in  that  luountaincus  region. 

On  the  7th  of  July  I  left  the  mill,  and  crossed 
to  a  small  stream  euiptying  into  tlie  American 
fork,  three  or  four  miles  below  the  saw-niill.  I 
stmck  this  stream  (now  known  as  Weber's 
creek)  at  the  washings  of  Sunol  &  Co.  They 
had  about  thirty  Indiansemployed,  whom  they 
pay  in  merchandise.  They  were  getting  gold 
of  a  character  siiuihir  to  that  found  on  the  main 
fork,  and  doubtless  in  sullicient  mianiilies  to 
•atist'y  them.     I  send   you  a  sniail  specimen, 

f resented  by  this  company,  of  their  gold, 
'rom  this  point  we  proceeded  up  the  str««iii 
about  eight  miles,  where  we  found  a  great 
many  people  and  Indians — some  engtiged  in 


the  bed  of  the  stream,  and  others  in  the  small 
side  valley  that  put  into  it.  These  latter  are 
exceedingly  rich,  and  two  ounces  were  con- 
sidered an  ordinary  yield  for  a  day's  work. 

A  small  gutte),  not  more  than  a  hundred 
yards  long,  by  four  feet  wide,  and  two  or  three 
feet  deep,  was  pointed  out  to  me  as  the  one 
where  tWv'  men,  William  Daly  and  Perry  Mc- 
Coon,  had  v  siiort  time  before  obtained  917,000 
worth  of  g'lld.  Capt.  Weber  informed  mo 
that  he  knew  tha<   tliese  two  men  had  em- 

itloyed  four  white  men  and  about  a  hundred 
ndians,  and  that,  at  the  end  of  one  week's 
work,  they  paid  oflf  their  party,  and  had  lef\ 
$10,000  worth  of  this  gold. 

Another  small  ravine  was  shown  me,  from 
which  had  been  taken  upwards  of  912,000 
worth  of  gold.  Hundreds  of  similar  ravines), 
to  all  appearances,  are  as  yet  untouched.  I 
could  not  have  credited  these  reports,  had  I 
not  seen,  in  the  abundance  of  the  precious 
metal,  evidence  of  their  truth.  Mr.  Neligh, 
an  agent  of  Commodore  Stockton,  had  been 
at  work  about  three  weeks  in  the  neighbour- 
hood, and  showed  me,  in  bags  and  bottles, 
over  92000  worth  of  gold  ;  and  Mr.  Lyman,  a 
gentleman-  of  education,  and  worthy  of  every 
credit,  said  he  had  been  engaged  with  four 
others,  with  a  machine,  on  the  American  fork, 
just  below  Sutter's  mill ;  that  they  worked 
eight  days,  and  that  his  share  was  at  the  rate 
or  950  a  day ;  but  hearing  that  others  were 
doing  better  at  Weber's  place,  they  had  re- 
moved there,  and  were  then  on  the  point  of 
resumin<{  operations.  I  might  tell  of  hundreds 
of  similar  instances ;  but,  to  illustrate  how 
plentiful  the  gold  was  in  the  pockets  of  com- 
mon labourers,  I  will  mention  a  simple  occur- 
rence, which  took  place  in  my  presence,  when 
I  was  at  Weber's  store.  This  store  was  nothing 
but  an  arbour  of  bushes,  under  which  he  had 
exposed  for  sale  goods  and  groceries  suited  to 
his  customers. 

A  man  came  in,  picked  up  a  box  of  Seid 
litz  powders,  and  asked  its  price.  Capt.  We- 
ber told  him  it  was  not  for  sale.  The  man 
offered  an  ounce  of  gold,  but  Capt.  Weber 
told  him  it  only  cost  fifty  cents,  and  he  did 
not  wish  to  sell  it.  The  man  then  offered  un 
ounce  and  a  half,  when  CLpt.  Weber  had  to 
take  it.  The  prices  of  all  things  are  high, 
and  yet  Indians,  who  before  hardly  knew  what 
a  breech  cloth  was,  can  now  aflbrd  to  buy  the 
most  gaudy  dresses. 

The  country  on  either  side  of  Weber's  creek 
is  much  broken  up  by  hills,  and  is  inlersecteii 
in  every  direction  by  small  streams  nr  ravines, 
which  contain  more  or  less  gold.     Those  that 
have  been  worked  are  barely  scratched,  and 
{  although  thousands  of  ounces  have  been  car- 
ried away,  I  do  not  consider  that  a  serious  im- 
Itression   has    been    made  upon    the   whole. 
'!very  day  was  developing   new  and   riehei 
{  deposits,  and  the  only  impression  seemed  to 
be,  that  the  metal  would  be  found  in  such 
'  abundance  as  seriously  to  depreciate  in  valuo. 

Un  the  8th  of  July  I  returned  to  the  lowrr 
mines,  and  on  the  foll'iwing  day  to  Sutter's, 
where,  on  the  lUtli,  I  was  making  preparatiuni 


CAUFORNIA  AND  HER  GOLD. 


71 


for  a  visit  to  the  Feather,  Yubah,  and  Bear 
rivers,  when  I  received  a  letter  from  Com- 
mander A.  R.  Lonff,  United  States  Navy, 
who  had  just  arrived^  at  San  Francisco,  from 
Mazatian,  with  a  crew  for  the  sloop-of-war 
Warren,  with  orders  to  take  that  vessel  to  the 
squadron  at  La  Paz.  Capt.  Long  wrote  to 
mo  that  the  Mexican  Congress  had  adjourned 
without  ratifying  the  treaty  of  peace,  that  he 
had  lettprs  for  me  from  Commodore  Jones, 
and  that  his  orders  were  to  sail  with  the  War- 
ren on  or  before  the  20th  of  July.  In  conse- 
quence of  these,  I  determined  to  return  to 
Monterey,  and  accordingly  arrived  here  on  the 
17th  of  July.  Before  leaving  Sutter's,  I  satis- 
fied mysi'lf  that  gold  existed  in  the  bed  of  the 
Feather  Kiver,  in  the  Yubah,  and  Bear,  and 
in  many  of  the  small  streams  that  lie  between 
the  latter  and  the  American  fork  ;  also,  that  it 
had  been  found  in  the  Cosummea,  to  tlie  south 
of  the  American  fork.  In  each  of  these 
strean^s  the  gold  is  found  in  small  scales, 
whereas  in  the  intervening  mountains  it  occurs 
in  coarser  lumps. 

Mr.  Sinclair,  whos.*^  rancho  is  three  miles 
above  Sutter's,  on  the  north  side  of  the  Ame- 
rican, employs  about  fifty  Indians  on  the  north 
fork,  not  far  from  its  jinction  with  the  main 
stream.  He  had  been  engaged  about  five 
weeks  when  I  saw  him,  and  up  to  that  time 
his  Indians  had  used  fiimply  closely  woven 
willow  baskets.  His  not  proceeds  (which  I 
saw)  were  about  iiH 6,000  worth  of  gold — 14 
pounds  avoirdupois  of  clean-washed  gold. 

The  principal  store  at  Sutter's  Fort,  that  of 
Dlanman  ti  Cn.,  had  received  in  payment  of 
goods,  $36,000  worth  of  this  gold,  from  the 
Istof  Mav  to  the  10th  of  July.  Other  mer- 
chants hadf  also  made  extensive  sales.  Large 
nuantilies  of  goods  were  daily  sent  forward  to 
the  mines,  as  tl^e  Indians,  heretofore  so  poor 
and  degraded,  h<>ve  suddenly  become  consum- 
ers of  the  luxuries  of  life.  I  before  mentioned 
that  the  greater  part  of  the  farmers  and  ran- 
cheros  had  abandoned  their  fields  to  go  to  the 
mines.  This  is  not  the  case  with  Captain 
Sutter,  who  was  carefully  gathering  his 
wheat,  estimated  at  40,000  bushels.  Flour 
is  already  worth,  at  Sutter's,  #.36  a  barrel,  and 
soon  will  be  950.  Unless  large  quantities  of 
breadstuff  reach  the  country,  much  suffering 
will  occur ;  but,  as  each  man  is  now  able  to 
pay  a  large  price,  it  is  believed  the  merchants 
will  bring,  from  Chili  and  Oregon,  a  plentiful 
supply  for  the  coming  wint«>r. 

I  he  most  moderate  estimate  I  could  obtain 
from  men  acquainted  with  the  subject,  was, 
tliat  upwards  of  four  thousand  men  were  work- 
ing in  the  gold  district,  of  whom  more  than 
one-half  were  Indians;  and  that  from  #30,000 
to  #50,000  worth  of  gold,  if  not  morn,  was 
daily  obtained.  The  entire  gold  district,  with 
very  few  exceptions,  of  grants  made  some 
years  ago  by  ih«.  Mexican  authorities,  is  on 
land  beloniring  to  the  United  States.  It  was 
a  matter  of  serious  reflection  with  me,  how  I 
oould  secure  to  the  government  oerttiin  rents 
or  fecir  for  the  privilege  of  procuring  this  gold ; 
but,  upon  considering  the  large  extent  of  coun- 


try, the  character  of  the  people  engaged,  and 
the  small,  scattered  force  at  my  command,  I 
resolved  not  to  interfere,  but  to  permit  all  to 
work  freely,  unless  broils  and  crime  should 
call  for  interference.  I  was  surprised  to  learn 
that  crime  of  any  kind  was  very  unfrequent, 
and  that  no  thefts  or  robberies  had  been  com- 
mitted in  the  gold  district. 

All  live  in  tents,  in  bush-arbours,  or  in  the 
open  air ;  and  men  have  frequently  about  their 
persons  thousands  of  dollars  worth  of  this 
gold  ;  and  it  was  to  me  a  matter  of  surprise 
that  so  peaceful  and  quiet  a  state  of  things 
should  continue  to  exist.  Conflicting  claims 
to  particular  spots  of  ground  may  cause  col- 
lisions, but  they  will  be  rare,  as  the  extent  of 
country  is  so  great,  and  the  gold  so  abundant, 
that  for  the  present  there  is  room  and  enough 
for  all.  Still,  the  governni  it  is  entitled  to 
rents  for  this  land,  and  immediate  steps  should 
be  devised  to  collect  them,  for  the  longer  it  is 
delayed  the  more  difficult  it  will  become.  One 

tian  1  would  suggest  is,  to  send  out  from  the 
fnited  Statt?s  surveyors,  with  high  salaries, 
bound  to  serve  a  specified  period. 

A  Superintendent,  to  be  appointed  at  Sut- 
ter's Fort,  with  power  to  grant  licenses  to 
work  a  lot  of  ground,  say  one  hundred  square 
yards,  for  one  year,  at  a  rent  of  frcm  #100  to 
#1000,  at  his  discretion;  the  surveyors  to 
measure  the  ground,  and  place  the  renter  in 
possession. 

A  better  plan,  however,  will  be  to  have  dis- 
tricts surveyed  and  sold  at  public  auction,  to 
the  highest  bidder,  in  small  parcels,  say  from 
twenty  to  forty  acres.  In  either  case,  there 
will  he  many  intruders,  whom,  for  years,  it  will 
be  almost  impossible  to  exclude. 

The  discovery  of  these  vast  deposits  of 
gold  has  entirely  changed  the  character  of 
Upper  California.  Its  people,  before  engaged 
in  cultivating  their  small  patches  of  ground, 
and  guarding  their  herds  of  cattle  andliorses, 
have  all  gone  to  the  mines,  or  are  on  their  way 
thither.  Labourers,  of  every  trade,  have  left 
their  work-benches,  and  tradesmen  their  shops. 
Sailors  desert  their  ships  as  fast  as  they  arrive 
on  the  coast,  and  several  vessels  have  gone  lo 
sen  with  hardly  enough  hund>}  to  spread  a 
sail.  Two  or  three  are  now  at  anchor  in  San 
Francisco,  with  no  crew  on  board.  Many 
desertions,  too,  have  taken  place  from  the  gar- 
risons within  the  influence  of  these  mines ; 
twenty-six  soldiers  lure  deserted   from   the 

I  lost  of  Sonoma,  twenty-four  from  that  of  San 
''rancisco,  and  twtMity-four  from  Monterey. 
For  a  few  days  the  evil  appeared  so  threaten- 
ing, that  great  danger  existed  that  the  garri- 
sons would  leave  in  a  body  ;  and  I  refer  you 
to  my  orders  of  the  *<J5th  of  July,  to  show  the 
steps  adopted  to  meet  this  contingency.  1 
shall  spare  no  exertions  to  apprehend  and 
punish  deserters,  but  1  believe  no  time  in  the 
history  of  our  country  has  presented  such 
temptations  to  desert  as  now  exist  ii  Califor- 
nia. The  danger  of  apprehension  is  small, 
and  the  prospect  of  high  wages  is  certain;, 
pay  and  bounties  are  trifles,  aslabouring  men 
at  the  mines  can  now  earn,  in  one  day,  more 


79 


CALIFORNIA  AND  HER  GOLD. 


->•'»  ' 


If 'i  ;ii 


El     i; 


than  double  a  soldier's  pay  and  allowances  for 
a  month,  and  even  the  pay  of  a  lieutenant  or 
captain  cannot  hire  a  servant.  A  carpenter  or 
mechanic  would  not  listen  to  an  ofler  of  less 
than  fifteen  or  twenty  dollars  a  day.  Could 
any  combination  of  affairs  try  a  man's  fidelity 
more  than  this?  and  I  really  think  some  ex- 
traordinary mark  of  favour  should  be  (jiven  to 
those  soldiers  who  remain  faithful  to  their 
fla^  throughout  this  tempting  crisis. 

No  officer  can  now  live  in  (/aiifornia  on  his 
pay — money  has  so  little  value.  The  jjrices 
of  necessary  iirtiirh's  of  clutliiiifr  and  subsist- 
ence an-  HO  oxorbitiuit,  and  bthour  so  hi.<;h« 
that  to  hire  a  cook  or  a  servant  has  ln'conie  an 
impossibility,  save  to  those  wlio  are  earnin<T 
from  tliirty  to  fifty  dollars  per  day.  'I'his 
staU'  of  things  cannot  last  for  ev(!r.  Vet  from 
the  geograpliicai  position  of  California,  and 
ttie  new  character  it  has  assumed, as  a  mininc; 
country,  prices  of  iiibour  will  always  bo  higii, 
and  will  hold  out  tuMnptations  to  desert.  I 
therefore  have  to  report,  if  the  government 
wish  to  prevent  desertions  here,  on  the  part  of 
tiie  men,  and  to  secure  zeal  on  tlu>  part  of  offi- 
cers, their  pay  must  bo  increased  very  material- 
ly. Soldiers,  both  of  the  volunteers  and  regular 
Hervi(;e,  discharged  in  this  country,  should 
be  permitted  at  once  to  locale  their  land  »var- 
ranis  in  the  gold  district.  Many  private  let- 
ters have  gone  to  tiie  United  Suites,  giving 
accounts  of  iho  vast  (|uantity  of  gidd  recently 
discovered,  and  it  may  ln^  a  matter  of  stir|)rise 
why  I  have  made  no  report  on  this  subject  at 
an  e-arlier  date.  The  reason  is,  that  1  could 
not  bring  myself  to  Ixlieve  the  reports  that  I 
heard  of  the  wealth  of  the  gold  disiriet,  until  I 
visiii'd  it  myself.  1  have  no  hesitation  now 
in  saying  that  there  is  more  gold  in  the  coun- 
try dniini'd  by  tho  Sacrauit  nto  and  Sun  Joa- 
quin rivers  than  will  pay  llio  cost  of  the  pre- 
sent war  with  Mexico  a  huniireii  limes  dver. 
No  eapiuil  is  reiiuired  to  obliiin  this  gold,  as 
the  labouring  man  wants  nothing  i)ut  IiIn  pick, 
shovel,  and  a  tin  pan,  with  which  to  dig  and 
wash  the  gnivel,  and  many  frecpienlly  pick 
gold  out  of  the  cn^vices  of  rocks,  wiili  their 
butcher  knives,  in  jiieces  from  one  to  six 
ounces. 

Mr.  Dye,  a  gentleman  residing  in  Monterey, 
and  worthy  of  every  credit,  has  just  returned 
from  Feather  Hiver.  lie  tells  ine  that  the 
company  to  wiiicli  he  belonged  worked  seven 
weeks  and  two  days,  with  an  avenge  of  fifty 
Indians,  (washers,)  and  that  their  gross  pro- 
duct was  'wo  hundred  and  seventy-three 
jiounds  of  gold.  His  share,  (nne-seventli,) 
aft<r  nayiiigall  expenses,  is  about  tiiirty-seven 
jiounds,  whieli  lie  brougiit  with  him  and  ex- 
hibited in  .Monter«'y.  1  see  no  labouring  man 
from  tlu!  mines,  who  does  not  show  his  two, 
tiireu,  r)r  four  iiounds  of  gold. 

A  soldier  ol  tiie  Artillery  company  returned 
here  a  few  days  ;igo  from  the  mines,  having 
been  absent  on  furlough  twenty  days.  He 
made,  by  trading  and  working  during  that 
time,  ijd.'iOO.  During  these  twenty  days,  he 
was  travelling  ten  or  twelve  days,  leaving  but 
a  week,  in  which  he  m:;de  u  sum  of  nioney 


grreatcr  than  he  receivea  in  pay,  clothes,  and 
rations,  during  a  whole  enlistment  of  five 
years.  These  statements  appear  incredible, 
but  they  are  true. 

Gold  is  also  believed  to  exist  on  the  eastern 
slope  of  the  Sierm  Nevada;  and  when  ut  the 
mines  I  wan  informed  ny  an  intelligent  Mor- 
mon, that  it  iiad  lieen  found  near  the  (tre;it 
Salt  Lake  by  some  of  liis  fraleriiity.  Nearly 
all  the  Mormons  are  leaving  Calif(;rnia,  to  go 
to  the  Salt  Lake — and  this  they  surely  would 
not  do,  unless  they  were  sure  of  finding  gold 
there  in  the  same  abundance  as  they  now  do 
on  the  Sacramento. 

The  gold  "|)lacer"  near  iho  mi  sion  of  San 
Fernando  has  long  been  known,  but  has  been 
little  wrought,  for  want  of  water.  This  is  in 
a  spur  that  |)uts  olV  from  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
(see  Fremont's  map,)  the  same  in  which  tlie 
present  mines  occur.  'I'bere  is,  llienfore,  every 
reason  to  believe,  that  in  the  intervening 
spaces  of  five  hundred  miles,  entirely  unex- 
plored, there  must  be  many  hidden  and  rich 
deposits.  The  "  placer"  gold  is  now  substi- 
tuted as  the  currency  of  tliis  country  ;  in  trade 
it  passes  freely  at  Ijdti  per  ounce  ;  as  an  arti- 
cle of  commerce  its  value  is  not  yet  fixed. 
The  only  purchase  I  made  was  the  specimen 
No.  7,  which  1  got  of  .Mr.  Neligli,  at  ijtia  the 
ounce.  That  is  about  the  present  cash  value 
in  the  country,  althr)ugh  it  has  beiii  sold  for 
less.  The  great  demand  for  goods  and  provi- 
sions, made  by  this  sudden  development  of 
wealth  has  increased  the  amount  of  cominerco 
at  San  Francisco  very  mucji,  and  it  will  con- 
limie  to  increase. 

1  would  recommend  that  a  mint  be  esti- 
blished  at  some  eligible  point  of  the  Uay  of 
San  Francisco ;  and  that  inaebinery,  and  all 
the  necessary  apparatus  and  workmen,  be  sent 
out  by  sea.  These  workmen  inu«>t  be  bound 
by  iiigii  wages,  and  even  bound  to  secum 
their  faithful  services,  else  thu  whole  plan 
may  be  frustrated,  by  their  going  to  the  mines 
as  s(jon  as  they  arrive  in  Calitornia.  If  this 
course  be  not  adopU.'d,  gold  to  the  amount  of 
many  millions  of  dollars  will  pass  yearly  to 
other  countries,  to  enrich  their  merchants  and 
capitalists.  Hefore  leaving  the  subject  of 
mines,  I  will  mention,  that  on  my  return  from 
Sacramento  I  touched  al  NiwAlnioder,  the 
quicksilver  mine  of  Mr.  AUxamler  Forbes, 
consul  of  her  Uritaniiic  .Majesty  at  Tcpic. 
This  mine  is  in  a  spur  of  mountains  lOOU  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  H.iy  of  San  Fmncisco, 
and  is  distant,  in  a  southern  direction  from  thn 
I'ueblo  de  San  Jose,  about  twelve  miles.  The 
ore  (cinnabar)  occurs  in  a  l.irgo  vein,  dipping 
at  a  strong  angle  to  the  hori/on.  Mexican 
miners  are  employed  in  working  it,  by  driving 
shafts  and  galleries  about  six  leet  by  seven, 
following  the  Viuii. 

The  fragments  of  rock  and  ore  are  removed 
on  the  hacks  of  Indians,  in  raw-hide  sacks. 
The  ore  is  then  hauled  in  an  ox  wagon,  from 
till)  month  of  the  mine  down  to  a  valley  well 
sapplied  with  wood  and  Wiilcr,  in  which  the 
furnac(!S  are  Hitiiati-il.  The  furnaces  ure  of 
the  simplest  coustruciioti— exactly  like  a  com- 


LETTER  OF  REV.  WALTER  COLTON. 


mon  bake  o\on — in  the  crown  of  which  is  in- 
verted II  wlmler*8  tryini;  kettle ;  another  in- 
verted kt^ttlf  fomia  the  litl.  Kroin  a  hole  in 
the  lid  a  smiill  brick  channel  leadH  to  an 
npartnn  tit,  or  chiimber,  in  the  bottom  of  which 
18  inserted  a  small  iron  kettle.  This  chamber 
lias  a  chimney. 

In  the  morning  of  each  day  the  krttlen  n'e 
filled  with  the  mineral  (broken  in  small 
liieces)  mixed  with  lime;  fire  is  then  n|i|)lied 
and  kept  up  all  day.  The  mercury  is  vola- 
tilized, passes  into  the  chamber,  and  flows  into 
the  pot  prepared  for  it.  No  water  is  used  to 
cnnaense  tiie  mercury. 

During  a  visit  I  made  last  sprin<r,  four  such 
ovens  were  in  operation,  and  yielded  in  the 
two  days  I  was  there,  656  pounds  of  quicksil- 
ver, worth  at  Ma/.atlanlJlHO  per  pound.  Mr. 
Walkinsha**,  the  (rpntleman  now  in  eharfje  of 
this  mine,  tells  me  that  the  vein  is  improviiij;, 
and  that  ho  can  atTurd  to  keep  his  people  em- 


jiloyed  even  in  these  extraordinary  tiniM. 
I'his  mine  is  very  valuable  of  itself,  and  be> 
comes  the  more  so  as  mercury  is  exttmsively 
used  ill  obtiiininf;  prold.  It  is  not  at  present 
used  in  ('alifornia  for  that  purpose,  but  will 
be  at  some  future  time.  When  I  was  at  this 
mine  last  sprinir,  other  parties  were  encraipfed 
ill  8eareliiii>r  for  veins ;  but  none  have  Iteen 
discovered  that  are  wort',  iollowinp  up,  al- 
tlionifh  the  eiirth  in  that  whole  ran^e  of  hills 
is  lii((hly  diseiilnured,  indicatintr  the  presence 
of  the  ore.  I  send  several  beautiful  speci* 
mens,  properly  labelled.  The  amount  of 
(luicksilver  in  Mr.  Forbes'  vats,  on  the  13th 
of  July,  was  iilioiit  'J, 501)  pounds. 

1   enclose   you    herewith    sketches   of  the 

country  tbroujjh  which    I   passi-d,  iiidicatinif 

the  position  of  the  mines,  and  the  topo|fraphy 

uf  the  country  in  the  vieinitv  of  those  1  visited. 

R.  B.'  M.VSON, 

Colonel  \»l  Dra-^obtUf  Cominanding. 


■f  - 
■%i- 


LETTER  OF  KEY.  AVALTEll  COLTON. 


ore  are  removed 
r.iw-hide  sacks, 
ox  wajjon,  from 

to  a  vi.lley  well 
>r,  in  which  the 

liirnaces  are  of 
;;ii!y  liktacom. 


MoNTRnr.r,  Aitv  Cauforsia,  Au|in*t  2fl,  IHW. 

Nrw  and  iiiiportiiiit  discoveries  are  made 
every  dity  in  the  yfoid  rejrion.  Instead  of  be- 
inj;  c'infined  to  one  stream,  as  was  at  first  sii|)- 
posed,  it  has  already  been  found  on  the  banks 
of  five,  am!  in  many  ilry  ravines,  where  tin; 
water  fli  ws  only  diiriiii,'  tlie  rainy  season. 
These  «tre:'.iiis  take  their  rise  in  the  chain  of 
mountains  which  runs  north  nnd  soiitli  throiiirji 
California,  and  are  tributaries  of  the  .Sacra- 
mento. The  discoveries  extend  already  two 
hundred  miles  north  and  south,  and  some 
seventy  east  and  west.  The  stronjj  probability 
is,  that  the  entire  chain — at  least  five  hundred 
miles  of  it— is  richly  impregnated  with  (jold. 
The  ore  has  been  found  in  the  deepest  valleys 
and  on  the  hiyrhiist  hills — at  the  bottom  of 
nieadow-streamsand  on  mount  liii-clitts,  wlicri! 
only  the  eagle  bus  been  accust  imed  to  pay  bis 
visits.  It  IS  inexhaustible.  As  an  evidence 
of  this,  one  fact  will  he  suflieient.  .Seven 
men,  with  their  Indiana,  workinjj  on  Feather 
Itiver,  took  from  a  sjiace  measiirinir  two  biiii- 
drud  yards  by  twenty,  twohundred  and  seventy- 
five  pounds  <if  gold. 

It  is  (litlicult  to  ascertain  with  much  preci- 
sion what  the  ((old  hunters  avenge  a  day  per 
man.  Hut  1  can  st;Ue  this  fact.  I  have  met 
a  (Treat  many  of  them,  and  not  with  one  whose 
ilaiiy  aviirage  was  as  low  as  twenty  ilollars ; 
and  Kome,  it  is  well  known,  have  avera;red, 
for  It  week  or  inontli,  over  a  hundred  dollars  a 
day,  and  this  without  eninloyini;  any  Indians, 
"r  enj;a(>ing  in  tralVic.  VVhen  a  man  finds  he 
is  gatiiering  only  his  einhteeu  or  Iwiiity  dol- 


lars  a  <lay,  he  changes  his  locality  and  looks 
ii|»  a  richer  spot.  From  all  the  facts  I  can 
l,nither  on  I''"  subject,  I  iniist  believe  that  thtt 
white  men  now  at  work  in  the  mines  average 
each  about  forty  dollars  a  day. 

.\  man  who  has  done  considerable  team 
work  lor  me,  went  to  t'le  mines,  engaged  in 
drawiny;  sand  for  others,  from  a  «lry  sjioi  to  the 
stream,  where  the  gold  might  be  washed  out; 
be  received  sixteen  dollars  the  load,  and  drew 
five  loads  a  day,  quit  it  and  went  to  working 
on  his  own  lior>k,  and  more  than  doubled  his 
earniii^rs.  I  know  a  little  boy  who  is  twelve 
years  of  ago,  who  has  been  at  the  mines  for 
t!ic  last  two  months,  and  who  has  made  his 
twenty  dollars  a  day  durint;  that  time,  with  no 
other  maehinery  than  a  little  wooden  bowl.  I 
know  a  woman  who  took  her  tea-tray,  went  to 
the  mines,  scpiatted  down  on  one  of  the 
streams,  and  in  six  days  worked  out  her  two 
hundred  dollars  of  jrold.  She  said  she  should 
have  wrirked  out  more,  but  she  spent  so  much 
id'  her  lime  in  thinkin^r  about  her  children. 

The  tfrdd  dijruirs  jrenemlly  work  in  small 
companies  of  six  or  cijilit.  They  have  a  lent, 
provisions,  cattle  and  liorses.  Kach  takes  hil 
turn  in  cookiiiir  and  keeping  camp.  Four  or 
five  are  entrniriil  in  gettinijr  out  {rold.  and  one 
or  two  ill  what  tliev  call  prospecting — that  is, 
hunting  lor  svune  richer  vein  or  deposit.  They 
ar«'  a  merry  st  t  of  fellows,  full  of  excitement 
and  fun.  They  undergo  (jreat  falijfue,  and 
ni;.ke  sport  of  tin  ir  hardships.  They  throw 
an  air  of  levity  abmit  the  iici|uisition  of  ^rdd, 
which  luaki  »  a  hurlt-si|iie  (jf  tliu  ati.xious  facoa 


^! 


74 


LETTER  OF  REV,  WAI TER  COLTON. 


I 


which  you  notnotimes  meet  on  'Chanjyp.  You 
would  little  think,  from  the  rarelcHH  gaiety  of 
their  demeanor,  that  they  were  jfeitinir  out  of 
the  earth  that  eirmi'nt  which  shiikei  the  roin- 
roercial  world.  They  lose  their  enrnin^^H  at 
the  ffamin^  tahle  with  as  little  concrrn  as  yon 
would  an  old  ff,mnenU  with  a  new  one  to  uke 
ita  place.  There  is  more  where  that  came 
from,  is  their  expresHir)n,  nnd  the  next  day 
they  prove  it  true.  The  whole  economy  of 
society  is  vhan^fed.  The  ditcher,  hand-hopper, 
and  butt-ender  are  the  most  indeiiendent  men 
in  the  comniunity^^^ch  has  hit)  hag  of  gold, 
and  can  fill  it  ten  times  as  fast  bh  his  wants 
can  empty  it. 

It  is  impossible  to  procure  labour  at  any 
price.  The  offer  of  ten  dollars  a  day  would 
not  detain  any  one  from  the  mines.  The  con- 
sequence is,  our  fields  are  without  fiirm>  «, 
our  shops  without  mechanicH,  our  forts  with* 
out  soldiers,  our  ships  without  sailors.  The 
pay  of  a  soldier,  exclusive  of  his  provisions 
and  clothes,  is  about  eight  dolliirrt  a  month. 
One  of  them  am  u  furlough  for  twenty  days 
from  (Colonel  Mason,  went  to  the  mines,  spent 
six  days  in  going  ui.d  as  ninny  in  returning, 
leaving  eight  for  work  tlierc,  and  brought 
back  with  him  tight  hindreil  dolbirs,  just 
about  wimt  he  would  iiiiike  in  eight  years  sn|. 
diering  it.  Is  it  to  be  wondered  nt,  then,  that 
they  deseit?  1  ihniht  if  there  «ill  be,  by  the 
time  thin  iftter  reaches  yon,  filiy  sdldirrs  at 
all  our  iiiililiiry  posts  in  ('alirorrii.!.  They 
will  be  in  tin-  mines — nnd  if  yon  send  the  few 
that  remain,  to  bring  them  back,  they  will 
themselves  ijo  to  digging  guld. 

Nor  does  the  navy  fare  a  whit  better.  Let 
a  man-of-war  anehor  in  our  liariiour  lo-momiw, 
and  in  three  weeks  she  would  hardly  bnvc 
men  enough  to  get  her  to  sea.  Seamen  who 
have  been  on  this  station  five  years,  and  wiin 
have  four  or  five  biiiulred  dollars  due  them, 
forfeit  the  whole  and  escajie  to  the  mines. 
Tlie  only  way  a  merchant-vessel  gets  to  sea 
is  to  give  the  men  a  strong  interest  in  the  voy- 
age. There  is  no  discipline,  except  what 
they  choose  to  establish  ainiing  iheinselves — 
each  for  the  time  being  is  cock  nf  the  walk. 
The  Isaac  Walton,  a  naval  store-ship,  hasjust 
arrived  from  New  York,  and  it  is  calculated 
that  it  will  cost  as  much  to  discharge  her  as 
the  whole  pri -e  of  her  freight  around  ('ape 
Horn.  Indeed,  she  cannot  discharge  without 
the  aid  of  one  of  our  national  ships,  and  the 
result  will  be  the  loss  of  s'iine  huiuired  sailors. 
It  is  in  vain  to  talk  about  sentries — the  sen- 


tries w  ill  run.  The  only  remedy  is  to  cut  off 
all  connection  with  the  shore;  and  in  that 
case  a  man-of-war  might  us  well  be  in  th« 
midst  of  the  Pacific  as  on  the  coast.  But 
enough  of  this. 

There  are  now  about  three  thousand  persona 
at  work  in  the  mines.  They  aveni|[e,  at  the 
x-ery  lowest  eompuUition,  an  ounce  per  day 
(>ach  man.  This  makes  an  aggregate  of  more 
than  a  million  a  month,  and  this  ouantity  will 
he  douliled  in  three  months.  This  gohf  now 
goes  to  .Mazatlan,  Peru,  and  Chili,  where  it 
is  coined  and  becomes  a  part  nf  the  currency 
nf  those  countries.  It  is  lost  to  us  as  the  me- 
tallic basis  of  our  circulating  medium.  It  can 
be  secured  to  us  only  by  a  mint,  and  one 
should  he  sent  out  here  forthwith.  1'here  ia 
at  present  very  little  coin  in  California,  and 
the  conse(|uenee  is,  thiii  grain  gold  is  sold  here 
for  ten  dollars  the  ounce.  It  has  been  assayed 
by  a  eomnetent  person,  and  proved  to  he  twenty- 
tbrei-  ami  a  half  carats  good.  It  must,  there- 
lore,  be  worth  at  our  mint  nearly  double  what 
it  is  sold  for  here.  This  monstrous  sacriflee 
is  made  by  Americans,  by  poor  emigrants, 
and  can  be  saved  from  it  only  by  a  mint,  and 
the  gold  can  be  saved  to  us  as  a  nation,  and 
inciirpomtet'  with  our  iiiet'illic  currency  only 
by  a  mint.  Therefore,  send  us  «  mint,  and 
the  sooner  the  belter.  Take  one  of  your  mints 
that  is  standing  nearly  idle,  and  a  good  assayer, 
and  an  honest  treasurer,  and  senil  them  to 
riiagres,  over  the  Isthmus  to  Panama,  and 
then  to  Monterey,  and  we  will  coin  gold 
enough  for  you  to  pay  the  Mexican  war. 

The  news  of  peace  produced  but  very  little 
sensation  here — men  were  too  much  occupied 
with  t!ii>  gold  mines  to  trou'  themselves 
iiiuch  about  the  affairs  of  Mexi.  The  Cali- 
foruians  grumbled  a  little  about  being  sold,  a^t 
they  termed  it,  and  then  strung  guitars  and 
were  as  giiy  as  ever.  (Jive  a  Californian  his 
guitar  and  fandango,  and  he  won't  give  him- 
si-lf  much  concern  about  territorial  lines.  Our 
squadron  is  still  at  Mazatlan,  but  some  of  our 
ships  are  expected  here  daily ;  they  will,  how- 
ever, he  obliged  to  leave  at  once,  or  loso  their 
men.  Two  vessels,  it  is  reported,  are  on  their 
way  from  the  Sandwich  Islands,  with  |>asseii- 
gers  for  the  gold  mines.  Admiral  Wooster— 
an  American,  and  once  at  the  head  of  tho 
<'liilian  navy— died  here  a  few  days  since. 
It  is  now  more  than  three  years  sinci!  I  re- 
ceived orders  to  the  Congress — I  expect  to 
return  homo  by  the  first  ship  that  leaves  for 
America. 


yij    4^*:-,  *  lAsftfA- 


CERTIFICATE  OF  THE  MINT. 


Mi'»T  W.  »..  PhllivtclphI*.  Due.  11,  IHW. 

Sib — On  the  8th  inut.  w<>rf*cciv(«d,as  I  have 
already  hail  thn  hunour  to  inrorm  you,  thefirgt 
deposit  of  ffold  from  California.  It  was  de- 
posited  by  Mr.  D.ivid  Charter,  who  brought  it 
from  SaiT  Francisco,  by  the  Isthmus  route.  It 
weiifhrd  1801*59  ounces  Troy ;  of  which 
1423-H()  was  from  the  lower  surface  mines, 
and  380-79  from  those  at  Ftmther  River.  On 
the  9th  in«t.,  another  deposit  was  sent,  by 
the  Secretary  of  War,  which  weighev!  8588 
ounces. 

The  gold  wan  of  two  sorti  in  external  cha- 
racter, though  apparently  not  different  as  to 
(|ualit^.  The  first,  from  the  "dry  diggings," 
was  \n  grains,  which  averaged  from  one  to 
two  pennyweights ;  the  other  variety,  from 
the  swamps  or  margins  of  thn  streams,  being 
in  small  lint  spangles,  of  which,  on  an  average, 
it  would  take  six  or  seven  to  weigh  one  gram. 
Of  these,  by  far  the  larger  part  of  the  deposits 
waH  conipoRt  il. 

The  gold  wan  melted  in  six  parcels,  and  the 


I  loss  by  melting,  due  to  the  earthy^  and  oxida- 
I  bio  matter  which  disappears  in  this  operation, 
averaged  about  3}  per  cent,  of  the  original 
weight  The  loss  thus  reported  is  moderate, 
and  shows  that  the  gold  nad  been  carefully 
washed. 

Assays  of  tlie  melted  gold  were  made  with 
groat  care,  and  the  results  showed  a  variation 
in  fineness  from  893  to  R97  thousandths,  the 
average  of  the  whole  being  894.  This  is 
slightly  bc!^w  the  standard  fineness,  which 
is  900. 

The  average  value  per  ounce  of  the  bullion, 
before  melting,  is  flH-S)  ;  that  of  the  same  in 
bars,  after  melting,  is  |ll8-50. 

The  whole  value  of  the  void  in  two  deposits 
was  l^3G,493,  besides  a  few  ounces  reserved 
in  the  native  state  for  the  Secretary  of  War, 
at  his  request 

Very  respectfully,  vour  faithful  servant, 

R.  IVI.  Pattcrsu.n,  Director, 
Hon.  Robert  J.  Walker, 

Secretary  of  the  Treasury. 


I 

V 


EXTRACTS  FROM  CORRESPONDENCE. 


Extract  nf  a  Tjftter  from  Thumaa  0.  Ijarki'n, 
Esq.,  late  Consul,  and  now  Nary  J  >  of 
the.  United  Slates,  to  the  Secretary  ate, 

dated  at  Monlerry,  November  16,  h     ■». 

Thk  diggin(rand  washing  for  gold  continues 
to  iiHTt'iisf  on  the  Sacramento  placer,  so  far  as 
regiinls  the  number  of  persons  engaged  in  the 
buHinesfl,  and  the  size  and  quantity  of  the  metal 
daily  obtained.     I  have  had  in  my  hands  seve-  I 
ral  |)ii>ce8  of  <jold,  about  twenty-thren  carats 
fine,  \vi-i'^hiii(r  from  one  to  two  pounds,  unil 
have  it  froiii  good  amiiorily  that  pieces  have 
liecn  li.iind  weighing  sixteen  pounds.   Indeed,  : 
I  have  lieard  of  onu  snecinien  that  weighed 
twenly-fivo  pounds.     'I  hero  are  many  men  at  j 
the  placer,  who  in  June  lust  had  not  onu  bun- ! 
dretl  dollars,  now  in  possesoion  of  from  five  j 
ti)  twenty  thousand  dollars,  which  they  made  | 
by  digging  gold  and  trading  with  the  Indians. ; 
Sevenil,  1  believe,  have  made  more.     A  com-  ] 
mon   calico   shirt,    or   even    a   Hilver   dollar,  \ 
has  been  taken  by  an  Indian   for  gold,  with- 
out regard  to  size;  and  a  half  to  one  ounce  of 
gold — say  eight   to   sixteen   dollars — is  now 
cuniidea'd  the  price  of  a  shirt,  while  from  three 


to  ten  ounces  is  the  price  of  a  blanket.  One 
hundred  dollars  a  day,  for  several  days  in  suc- 
cession, was  and  is  considered  a  common  re* 
muneratiun  fur  the  labour  of  a  gold-digger, 
though  few  work  over  a  month  at  a  time,  as 
the  fatigue  is  very  great  From  July  to  Ooto- 
ber,  one  half  of  the  gold-hunters  have  been  af- 
flicted either  with  the  ague  and  fever,  or  the 
interuiittent  fever,  and  twenty  days  ulisenee 
from  the  placer  during  those  months  it  neces- 
sary to  escape  these  diseases.  There  have  not, 
however,  been  many  fatal  cases.  The  gold  is 
now  sold,  from  the  smallest  imaginary  piece 
in  size  to  pieces  of  one  pound  in  weight,  :it 
sixleen  dollars  per  Troy  ounce,  for  all  the  pur- 
poses of  commerce;  but  those  who  are  under 
the  necessity  of  raising  coin  to  pay  duties  to 
the  government  am  obliged  to  accent  from  ten 
to  eleven  dollars  per  ounce.  All  tne  coin  in 
ruiifornia  is  likely  to  be  locked  up  in  the  cus- 
tom-house, as  the  Inst  tariff  of  our  Congress  is 
in  force  here  in  regard  to  the  receipt  of 
money. 

('uuld  you  know  the  value  of  the  California 
placer  us  I  know  it,  you  would  think  you  had 
iieen  instrumental  in  obtaining  a  most  splen- 

75 


} 


It 


EXTRACTS  FROM  CORRKSPONDENCE. 


Hi  ''i 


il 


(lid  purrhnon  for  n«r  rounlry,  to  |)ut  no  oilier 
conMlpirtioii  on  llif  liiU'  tniily. 

Thi-  |iliicpr  in  known  to  ln'  iw  o  or  lhr»'«'  liiin- 
(Irvd  niil«-N  IrtntTi  xml  aa  dinoovtrira  are  cnn- 
atnntly  iMinjj  niadf, it  inHy  prove nnf  thouaiind 
tnili-H  in  li-nKth — in  fuel,  it  ih,  not  (•omitiiiu  liii- 
intt'rinnliaii'  iiiiifH,  ytt  niH-xplnrfil.  From  (ivi- 
to  t<>n  iniiliiinH  ut'irolil  nnisi  \w  nur  fX|i<'rt  iIiik 
•Hid  next  yi'iir.  How  iiiiiiiy  morn  y«iirs  iliin 
htntii  ■>!'  •hin:;«  will  ronliiiiic,  I  riinnut  Hiiy. 
Yoii  mny  -.voniicr  why  I  roniiinic  my  corre- 
Hf  ondi-nce.  I  n'lHWt-r,  Ironi  Imliit,  and  your 
many  n-nnirks  of  the  inten-Ht  yon  take  in 
II  y  fctiiTt. 

NAVY  DEI'AUTMKNT. 

Kxlractfrum  Idler  Nu,  34,  Uduhtr  25,   Hl«, 
fruiu  ('iimmmltirc  Junrx  lo  Ihv  Ilnnuuruhit  St- 

crrltiry  nf  Ihr  Sary. 

Notliin<f,  sir,  eimexcei'd  llir  (lc•|^lonlltlp»ti^t^• 
('^lllin^s  in  ;ill  l'|i)t)'r  (';ilit'i>rni!i  nt  tliiit  tinx'. 
{irowinj;  out  «i  llo'  inaddrnini;  t'tlVris  of  the 
},'nld  iminiii.  I  iiin  Horry  to  «iiy  that  evrn  in 
thin  <«iiindron  soim-  of  the  oflicfrH  arr  n  littlr 
laintni,  and  li;ivf  mnnifcsti-d  rrstlcsHnc^iK  under 
modi  rate  reslriiMionrt,  imperiously  demanrled 
liy  the  i\i;j"neii'H  of  the  times,  a^  yon  w  ill  nee 
hy  the  enclosed  paper,  iiddressed  to  three  of  the 
lienlenanls,  I  am,  ln)Wever,  happy  to  Hay  (hat 
I  liavf  not  liei'ii  itisappnint.'d  in  the  [rood 
etVeels  of  the  means  employed  to  prevent  ile- 
Rertiini,  and  to  mainlaiii  onler  in  the  stjiiadron, 
as  lint  one  di'!<ertion  lias  taken  jdaee  sinee  the  , 
runh  I'f  iliihl  from  this  slii|i  on  the  evininjj  of 
the  l-^tli  inKiaiit;  and  that  t!ie  vitws  ami 
opinions  of  ihr  lew  ollii'irs  who  were  ske|i- 
tieal  as  to  the  riiihl  nr  illicaey  of  the  Mie.ins 
employi'd  to  prevent  otl'mi'eH  and  to  pt.niNli 
erinii'  have  undiT^foite  a  iiU'Sl  t.ivmir.ilile 
elianife,  whcrcliy  i  sliall  In*  eli.ililed  to  keep  ui 
this  eoast  until  (he  whirlwiml  of  aiiardiy  and 
ennfiision  eontoiindi'd  is  hiipersi-drd  hy  th«>  ch- 
tiiblihhment  of  some  Ici^al  |rovernineni,  potent 
enotiirli  id  enforee  law  and  lo  pioti'<-t  lile  and 
jiroperty,  wliieli  ai  this  time  are  in  ^rnat  jeo- 
(lardy  everyw  here  ontsidi-  our  hulwarks. 

Ku'i  Slllf  Oiiin, 
Jl»y  if  Moiiiinj,  .V..V.  1. 1M«. 

Sir — Hy  I.ii  ntenant  I.aniiian,  who  lift  here 
on  the  'Jlitli  lilt.,  ill  the  ship  "  l/.iak  Walton," 
tor  the  coast  of  I'i'rii,  wlierir  he  exjieetiid  to 
int«'reept  the  I'.inaina  htcaiiurs,  I  Im warded 
several  eominiinications,  aei|iiaiiilinu  yon  with 
my  movements  ii|>  to  that  date,  whu-h  I  liojic 
yon  will  receive  early,  and  th.itlliey  may  prove 
tialitifactory. 

The  enclosed  extr.iet  from  my  last  letter 
will  convey  the  unpleasant  tidings  nf  the 
utter  prostration  ui  all  law  and  order  in 
our  Culifornia  possessions,  lirnii|rht  ahimt  hy 
the  extruurdiiiary  developincntu  bf  )r(dd  in  this 

vicinity. 

•         •         •         •         •         •         • 

I  Itave  the  honour  to  li*>  yonr  ub't  Kerv't, 
Thos.  Ap  C  Jonks, 
Commander-in'Vhitf,  J'arijic  Sijuadron. 
Hon.  J.  Y.  Mason,  Scc'y  Nuvy. 


fiAU  flnir  Oni^ 
Its;  iif  Mniiton'y,  Nov.  i,  11411. 

SiH — [n  niy  letter,  from  |,ii  Paz,  I  rn« 
eornnieiided  the  retention  on  this  eoast  of  till 
rriiiitinii;  Hhips  of  the  Piieifie  Hi|iiadron,  and 
poiiiti'd  oiil  how  they  eoiild  he  ke|it  in  repair 
and  manned  without  retnrninLr  round  Capu 
Horn  to  the  Atlantic  .^talcn.  Winn  tl)nt  re- 
eoiiimcndation  was  made,  I  hid  no  conception 
rd'  the  sUito  of  iliinus  in  I'pper  California. 
For  the  prcMcnt,  and  I  fear  for  years  lo  come, 
it  will  he  impo^oiiiie  for  the  I'liitrd  .States  lo 
inaiiitain  any  n.ival  or  inilit^iry  estahlisliinent 
ill  (''alifornia — as,  at  present,  no  hope  of  rr* 
ward,  nor  liar  of  puiiishim  nt,  \h  HiitTicient  to 
make  hindi  i'4  any  coniract  helween  man  and 
man  ujion  >hu  sidl  of  Culifornia.  To  send 
troops  nut  here  would  he  iicedlesM,  for  they 
Would  immediately  desert.  To  show  what 
el'  \nce  lliero  is  for  npprehendintr  deserteru,  I 
cnelipsc  an  advi  rtiseinent  which  lias  been 
widelyr  circulaUfd  for  a  fortnight,  without 
hriiii(iii>(  in  a  ttin^le  deserti-r.  Anions  the  dr- 
serlers  from  the  iii|uadron  are  8oinu  of  theheHt 
petty  ofl'icers  and  seamen,  liavin|{  lint  few 
inoiiths  to  serve,  and  Ux^v  halance*  duellieni, 
aiiiountinir  iu  ihe  A^gwgxWu  Xo  over  ten  thou- 
sand doll.irs.  •  •  •  • 

There  is  a  ((real  d«  iicienry  of  roiii  in  tlio 
country,  and  especially  in  the  iniins;  tlio 
tradirs,  hy  lakiiio  advaiita);e  of  the  |iressinK 
neci'siiity  of  the  dijjuer,  not  uiifrei(iiently  coiii- 
pi'llini;  him  ti  sell  his  oiinee  of  (rood  ^old  for 
I  silver  dollar;  and  it  has  hceii  hon^rht,  under 
liki'  circiinihlaiices,  f.r  fifty  cents 
<d'  Inilians.  To  this  stale  of  ile| 
lahourin|r  miners  are  now  suhp'cted,  and  must 
he  until  coin  is  more  uhnndant.  Disease, 
coii)ri>aiivu  and  iiitermiltent  fi  ver,  is  makiiiK 
Ifteat  havoc  iiinoii|'  the  ditfy^ers,  as  tin  "  are 
almost  destitiile  of  lot  il  and  raiiiieiil,and,fortlie 
most  |iart,  w  ithoiil  Inoises  of  any  kind  to  protect 
them  from  the  inelement  season  now  at  hand. 

The  commerce  of  this  coast  may  he  said  to 
he  entirely  cut  id)°  hy  desertion.  No  sooiit  r 
docM  a  merchant  ship  arrive  in  any  port  of 
California,  than  all  hands  leave  her — in-  s mie 
insl.inees,  cujilain,  cim/t,  and  all.  At  this  iiio- 
ineiil,  there  are  a  nnnilier  of  merchant  ships 
tliU!i  ahandoned  at  San  Francisco,  ami  siieh 
will  he  the  file  of  all  that  suhsei|ii<  nily  arrive. 
The  master  of  the  ship  •'  Ix.iak  Walton,"  liiat 
liroii(,dit  HtorcK  for  the  fi(|uadron  to  this  port, 
offered,  withoill  success,  fifty  dollars  per 
iiionlh  to  (^allao,  and  thence  twenty  dolhirg 
per  month  home,  lo  di»Unudtd  vilunlnrs,  not 
seamen  We  were  uhlioed  at  last  to  sujiply 
hiin  with  four  men,  whose  leriii  of  servict* 
was  draw  in<r  lo  a  close.  This  skite  of  thiiius 
is  not  confined  to  California  alone.  Ore^jon 
is  fast  dejiopulaiin^  ;  her  iiilnihit.tntM  pour  intn 
the  ^idd  di|;<rin(rK,  and  foreiirn  residents  and 
runaway  sailors  from  the  S.iiidwich  Island* 
are  arriviii|ir  hy  every  vessel  that  approaches 
this  coast.  .  •  •  • 

Very  respectfully,  your  oh't  serv't, 

Thok.  Ap  C.  JuNk'ri, 
('nmmiinder-in-('hiff,  I'tirific  Sijuadrrm. 
Hon.  J.  Y.  Mason,  Sec'y  Navy. 


inr  ounce, 
dependence 


EXTRACTS  FROM  CORRKSPONDKNCI. 


s.  as  till"  arn 


Til**  corrwipondpnt  of  the  New  York  ('oiirier 
•n<l  Kni|uin<r,  wrilinK  from  Monterey,  ('nlU 
roriiin.  iiniU'r  ilatu  of  October  30,  givot  ihofol- 
l')win^r  iiilcrPNtiiiif  lnr<>riniitinn  rrlntivo  to  tli«« 
Paiilii'  Si|tiadrt>iiaii(l  tliv  iidwn  from  the  luinrH  : 

'I'lir  Parific  Sijuadrnn  hua  arriveil  nt  tliifl 
|iliici'  iVoiii  Lower  Ciiliroriiiii,  coininir  in  froin 
ihiy  to  'I-))'  Iroiii  thu  Ith  iinlil  the  INtTi  iiiNtiiiil. 
Tlif  hIiI|>«  now  h«'rr  ixti'  the  Ohio,  Uiile,  War- 
r)>n,  l.cxiiiuloM,  iiixl  Soulhiiin|>ton>  Th«)  Nt. 
Mury'N  ii«  fX|icctu<l  hourly  i'rom  the  United 

>Slilt<'M. 

On  iliii  'i3ii  of  Aii|{tiMt  InHt,  just  al'tpr  n 
Ntroiitt  Houlh-ciiHt   ifiilo,  the  rri|fut4>  Con|fr«'tM 

5ot  II mil  r  vvciKJi  Iroin  hi-r  anr|iora((e  in  tho 
lay  III  \,.\  V-u,  lor  home.  'I'lio  exritt'UK'tit 
aiu'int;  lior  oHiccri«  nml  crow,  on  thia  occa- 
hion;  \',  as  Vfty  ){rt  at ;  lor  aim  had  ii«tii  kept 
on  thu  station,  witliout  the  Hhadow  of  nccci- 
HJly,  ii|>\vardH  of  tlircn  inonthii  ul'tvr  (the  wan 
fairly  riititlnl,  from  the  li'n>{th  of  her  criiiHc, 
to  ritiirn  to  the  I'nited  Stati's.  On  hf-r  dc- 
liartiirc,  tlin  t?ontrrnHM  Halntcd  thn  Ihii^  and 
cht'irni  hhip,  after  wliii-ii  her  hand  Hiriick  ii)', 
"  lloiiii',  Hwri  t  honic  !"  and  sad  lieartM  w*  ri! 
Icfi  li<liiii(l.  Diirin);  lliiM-h)-crin)r,alioiit  three 
hniiilnil  hats  were  thrown  nverlxmrd  from  the 
t°rii{-.iie.  which  act,  hcini;  translHted,  Mi|rni;ie8, 
"  \\>'  leave  yon  our  old  hatn,  ( 'ointnodor*^— 
cutcli  (IN  a)raiii  if  you  can."  Moat  of  thu  men 
CI  iiji'ii.siiii;  hir  crew  wtire  kc)it  in  service  Ion;,' 
nl^cr  th>ir  teriiiH  of  enlistiiient  had  expind. 
Aiitliiiriiy  for  ho  doin|r  wan  derived  from  an 
■,A-\  cf  OonifrexM. 

At  1. 1  I'az,  on  the  *J3th  of  Au^iixt,  claims 
of  the  ctiitifirtimited,  to  ttie  amount  of  five  thoii- 
Kiiid  <l'>llar'«,  were  jiaid  hy  order  of  Commo- 
dore Ji'iicM.  I)iirin)r  that,  and  Kcvenil  succeed- 
in:,'  •  V(iiin<(s,  Moiilf  Itiii\ki  wert;  op»'n  all  over 
the  place.  MiiiHIinK  of  cardn  minht  he  sctMi. 
and  llie  jiiiKlini;  of  money  heard,  even  in 
courts  iiiid  i^.irdenH,  iind,  in  one  or  two  in- 
Ktaiicrs.  Ill  tlie  very  atrceta.  (Maims  iiuvealao 
l/cci.  paid  ill  San  Jose. 

On  the  -JIMh  of  the  samo  month  the  Iroopa 
and  emigrants  embarked,  the  fnrmer  on  board 
tlie  Oliic,  am!  .he  latter  on  hoard  the  Ijcxinif- 
ton,  and  l.a  I'ar.  was  delivcri'd  up  at  'J  F.  M. 
on  till'  -.'Ist.  when  thi!  Ohio  aaluted  the  Mexi- 
can ll  ii;  with  twenty-one  guns.  This  waare- 
tiifntil  liy  till'  .Mexicans,  with  two  old  carron- 
udeit,  up  lo  sixteen  i^nins,  but  at  this  juncture 
a  miin\  arm  heinfj  hlnwn  olf,  they  ceased  sa- 
liitint(.  the  si|iiadron  sailed  from  La  I'az  on 
the  1st  (if  ."'eptcmher. 

The  l.c<iiiHton  proceeded  directly  to  this 
place.  Iii't  \\\v  Soiilh.imptnn  and  Warren 
stopped  at  .Sin  Jose,  and  in  a  few  days  the 
Ohio  aNo  ap|)earcd  oil"  the  latter  pl.ice.  Here 
troops  •ivire  taken  on  board  the  Ohio,  eiiii- 
;;rantr'.  u\\  hoard  the  Warren  and  Soiithaiiipton, 
the  Mt  \ican  llaj;  was  saluted,  (returned  this 
time  witli  the  full  nuniher  of  ijuns,)  atui  on 
the  (,\\\  the  three  shipa  departecL 

The  Ciinimoilore  expri-aaed  the  opinion  that 
in  conHe(|nenee  of  a  heavy  aurf  at  San  Jose, 
the  safety  (d  the  public  ahipa  would  beendan- 
Kcrcd  hy  taking  on  board  the  artillery,  ammu- 


nition, and  other  army  atorra  at  that  place. 
He,  therefore,  determined  to  leave  them,  to  be 
aeni  forat  aomu  future  day.  On  hearing  thia, 
aevemi  of  his  ulTioera  volunteered  to  ((et  theac 
ofl'  in  aafety,  or  forfeit  their  commiasiona. 
Hut  he  would  not  listen  to  them.  So  there 
they  now  are,  at  the  mercy  of  our  late  enemy. 

Throuifhoiit  nil  I'pper  t  'alifornii,  ki>IiI,^(,Ij, 
Hold,  is  the  cry.  Furtunea  are  beiuK  made, 
st|iiandered,  and  reciiperattd.  Kveryhody  is 
jfoini^  to  \\w  pliietr,  is  there,  or  has  heen  there. 
Kveii  the  uovernor  could  not  resist  inakiuK 
another  visit  to  that  region,  and  he  haa  now 
removed  liia  head-(|uuru-rs  thither.  Uoaer- 
tiims  from  the  fort  and  the  slii|ia,  of  courae, 
occur  fre(|uently,  and  the  master  of  a  mer- 
chantman now  in  port  oilers  ««<•  hundred  diti- 
liim  a  nianlh  for  seamen  to  carry  his  ship  to 
Cullao,  hut  has  been  imuhle  lo  ship  any  even 
at  that  price.  Ilelwi-en  twenty  and  tliirty 
ships  are  lying  at  San  Francisco,  without  the 
sliKhttst  pruspiH-t  of  ohutining  crewa. 

t'oinmudoru  Jones,  with  u  numerous  suite, 
was  to  have  taken  his  departure  for  the  mines 
yesterday.  Tho  oliject  of  his  \  isit,  it  is  imposai- 
ble  to  imagine.  However,  in  consei|uence  of 
the  numerous  desertiona  in  the  si|nadrGn,  he 
sent  a  party,  lint  remained  here  himself.  A 
circular  letter  Iroin  the  (.■ommaiidcr-in-t.'hief 
to  the  I'atMfu!  .Si|nadron,  was  hut  n ceiitly  ri>ud 
on  the  nuarler-d(;cks  of  all  tho  vessels,  in 
which  he  speaks  of  the  fdiuir  as  a  ridiculous 
"golden  driram,"  \c.  Kf.  Hut,  immetlijtcly 
on  iirnviiig  in  Monterey,  and  av.  eiMiiiiing  that, 
in  Alt.i  ('.ilifornia,  llit  re  is  a  gold  (i»|>o.sii  uf' 
ahoiii  four  hundred  scpiare  miles,  the  cilg?-  of 
which  can  he  reached  in  three  or  four  days 
tr.ivid,  and  that  even  the  governor  of  the  new- 
ly aci|uircd  territory  wasr<(/e/;i^'»/,  if  notdmo/i;,', 
tho  dii:iftr»,  he  pre|iari'd  for  a  journey  to  tiie 
land  of  dreuiii.i. 

Odicers  of  the  army  have  so  far  forgotten 
their  dignity  as  to  coinnienco  a  sysleiu  of 
M|ieculalion.  Upon  the  road  to  the  ji/ucir, 
wagons,  with  the  hrand  V.  S.  upon  them, 
may  he  seen,  travelling  at  a  brisk  rate,  and 
surrounded  hy  parties  of  gentlemen  in  high 
spirits,  mounted  on  line  iiorsi  s  or  strong 
mules,  some  of  which  are  also  liriiniled  us 
above, all  tiiking  a  northward  coursu.  in  these 
wagons  are — viiH/k — s.iddle-bags,  and  pots, 
kettles,  and  other  camp  eijiiipage ;  but  if  one 
could  have  a  closi;  examination.  In.'  would  find, 
nicely  stowed  away  underiuMlii  all  these, 
goods  fur  barter. 

Navy  ollicers,  with  the  exception  of  ih*; 
chosen  buiiii  s|ioki'n  of  above,  are  obliir'-d  to 
look  on  at  all  this  from  their  lloating  prisons, 
and  no  ship  will  leave  tiie  oast  until  tlie  re- 
turn of  this  party  from  the  arduous  service 
upon  which  they  are  imw  engaged.  NLtan- 
whih;  men  are  deserting,  and  ollicers  tlir)>at- 
ened  with  ciuirls-marlial  for  allowing  w hat  it 
is  utterly  iiii|iossililu  to  prevent. 

'I'he  Lexington  (store-ship)  will  leave  here 
in  a  few  days  fur  San  Fr.uiciiico,  to  take  in 
t;iild,  (only  think  »(  that!)  whence  she  will 
pr<K-eed  to  the  .Sandwich  Islands,  and  from 
there  to  the  United  States,  via  Valparaiso  and 


78 


EXTRACTS  FROM  CORRESPONDENCE. 


I 


r^- 


Rio  (le  Janeiro.  What  i«  the  deatination  of 
the  rest  of  the  aquadron  the  land'htbbert  have 
not  learned,  but  I  heard  a  rumour  that  another 
ship  would  Bail  for  home  on  the  first  of  Janu- 
ary, taking  the  route  of  the  Lexington.  I 
have  also  understood  that  the  Commodore 
hopes  to  obtniii  permission  tr.  return  home  in 
Iho  Ohio,  by  the  way  of  the  East  Indied. 
This  is  all  provided  crews  bo  left  for  thn 
ships. 

In  addition  to  the  above,  the  rnurirr  Rnd 
Knqiiirer  gives  a  letter  from  an  offircr  nf  Uic 
navy,  tiated  on  board  the  U.  S.  ship  Dale,  at 
anchor  off  San  Joseph,  Lower  California,  Nov. 
17,  which  contains  the  following  itiMns  : 

The  raneherot  have  left  their  farms,  and  un- 
leHM  Hiippliea  art!  tient  into  the  country  tliern 
must  lie  a  famine.  I  «au'a  niiin  who  p;)i<l  six 
hundred  dollars  for  a  barrel  of  flour. 

Every  thing  in  the  shape  of  goods  and  pro- 
viHionH  commands  thf:  highest  pricen  ut  the 
luines,  payable  in  gold — which  has  been  sold 
at  the  mines  for  five  dollars  per  ounce,  Troy 
weight,  and  in  some  cases  for  even  leNO.  At 
San  Francisco  ami  Monterey  it  sells  for  from 
ten  to  twelve  dollars  in  trado.  A  vessel  sailed 
a  short  lime  before  our  arrival  at  Monterey,  for 
Maxatlan,  with  twelve  hundred  pounds  of  thJN 
gold,  which  I  found  upon  our  arrival  sold  for 
over  sixtwn  dolliirs  per  ounce,  aroiriiupc:^ 
weight.  The  gentleman  who  owns  this  irold 
onuui  out  to  this  country  in  January,  |K|7,  in 
one  of  the  store-ships  chartered  in  Honi.  n,  to 
bring  out  provisions  fr)r  the  squadron  ;  he 
brought  out  with  hint  between  tour  ami  five 
thousand  doUHr;*  worth  of  goo<ls,  which  he 
bought  at  auction  for  a  venture.  He  locali'd 
in  San  I'Vancisco,  and  in  August  of  the  same 

{'i-ar,  he  told  me  that  with  the  goodrt  he 
irou^ht  out,  and  his  purchHse  of  two  lots,  lr> 
wa'i  worth  thirty  thouHand  dollars.  Lots 
bought  originally  for  fifh>«n  dollars  are  now 
worth  tive  or  six  thoiisiAid  dollars;  all  of  this 
t<;ok  place  before  the  discovery  of  'lie  iiiincM. 
This  gold  has  been  assayed  and  found  to  lie 
twenty-three  and  a  half  carats  fine — pure  vir- 
gin gold-  The  largest  piece  found  wii  lia 
twenty-five  pounds,  in  one  solid  block ;  iho 
next  weighs  seven  pounds,  an  so  on,  down 
to  fine  black  sand. 

Hefore  I  left  Monterey,  I  saw  Mr.  , 

who  came  out  to  this  country  ii>  tlie  

•"tore-shi"  as  purser's  steward.  I'Je,  with  four 
others,  wenr  to  the  mines  in  April  last,  and  in 
seventeen  days,  he  says,  the  fi/e  dug  out 
twenty  thousand  dollars  worth,  wIkm  he  was 
taken  sick,  and  the  copartnership  disjolved. 


He  hud  fifteen  thouaand  dollars  worth  with 
him,  and  doe*  not  intend  to  dig  any  more,  but 
to  trade  in  gooda. 

j     (Klerks  get  eight  dollars  per  day  at  the 
,  mines. 

I  More  than  five  thousand  persons  are  said  to 
be  engaged  digging  at  this  time,  and  they 
daily  receive  large  accessionn  of  numbers. 

Liquors  are  very  scarce,  and  command  the 
highest  prices.  Shot'tli  have  nold  for  twenty 
dollars,  and  pick*  for  tho  same.  I  was  offered 
six  ounces  of  g(dd  tor  my  old  cloak,  which 
cout  twenty-five  dollars,  and  has  suffered  six 
yesrs  of  hard  wear.  All  articles  of  clothing 
sell  well,  and  there  are  none  in  market. 

A  cargo  of  C^hina  goods  realized  |I-JU<),()()U 
in  one  week  at  San  Francisco. 

Some  of  our  officers  bought  this  gold  at  six, 
eight,  and  ten  dollars  per  ounce,  and  on  our 
arrival  at  Mazatlan,  on  tho  90th  of  November, 
sold  it  for  sixteen  dollars  per  ounce. 

The  New  York  Herald  says  it  has  received 
private  advices  which  are  too  wonderful  for 
belief,  and  which  it  consequently  suppresses. 
It  suites,  on  the  strength  of  them,  that  the  gold 
region  is  eight  hundred  miles  in  length  by  one 
hundred  in  width,  and  tliat  a  small  body  of 
diggers  tlierein  would  produce  annually  one 
hundred  million  dollars'  worth.  Th'i  Herald's 
Monterey  correspondent  gives  tho  following: 

In  my  travels  I  have,  when  resting  under  a 
tree,  and  grazing  my  horse,  seen  a  few  pieces 
of  pure  gold  picked  up  from  the  crevices  of  the 
rocks  or  slate  v  jero  we  were  stopping.  On 
one  occasion,  nooning  or  relVeiihing  on  tin- 
side  (if  a  stream  entirely  unknown  to  diggern 
or  •*  prospectors,"  or  rather,  if  known,  not  at- 
leiided  to,  one  of  my  cunipanions,  in  rolling  in 
the  sand,  said:  "(live  ine  u  tin  nan;  viliv 
should  we  not  be  cooking  in  gold  siiuU ! 
He  took  a  pan,  filletl  it  with  sand,  UHi:iied  it 
out,  and  produo-.l,  in  five  minutes,  ^-J  or  li>;i 
worth  of^  gold,  merely  saying,  as  he  thn  u 
bi;th  pan  and  gold  on  the  sand,  "  I  (li.iught 
so." 

From  tho  first  of  July  to  the  first  of  Octo 
her,  more  or  less,  one  half  of  the  people  will 
have  fever  and  ague,  or  interinitlcnt  fever, 
which  takes  them  from  the  first  day  of  diggin); 
until  they  have  been  one  liuiiilri>d  iniles  from 
the  "placer"  fifteen  or  twenty  days.  In  tin- 
wint4!r,  it  is  too  cold  to  work  in  the  water,  lini 
from  next  April  to  the  following  July,  one 
million  of  dollars  of  pure  gold,  or  more,  per 
month,  will  be  produced  from  the  gold  region, 
without  digging  mure  than  threu  feet  deep. 


in  worth  with  I 
(  any  more,  but     I 

«r  «liy  at  the    I 

■ons  are  raid  to  I 

inie,  and  thry  I 

of  numberfi.  I 

cotnmnnd  thri  I 

Hold  for  twfiity  I 

I  WHS  offcrfd  I 

i  cloak,  whirh  I 

IH8  HUfTtHfMi  (tix  I 
'|4>8    of  Cl0lhill)r       I 

II  market.  I 

ilizfii  fJUO.OOO    I 

this  ((olil  at  flix,  I 

ic«,  and  on  our  I 

h  of  N  jvember,  I 

ounce.  I 

■  it  has  received  I 

0  wonderful  for  I 
ntly  auppresBCB.  I 
em,  that  the  ((old  I 
in  length  by  one  ] 
k  amall  body  of  I 
ce  iinnually  one  I 
|>.   Tlu;  Herald'd 

m  the  followiii|r : 

1  r<>Ktin((  undi-r  a 
»TU  a  few  |)i(!OiH 
H!  crevice*  of  llu! 

n  Ktopping.  t)n  I 
jfr^Hhing  on  the 
now  It  to  diK^fTH 
f  known,  not  ai- 
ioni«,  ilk  rolling  in 
u  till  iinii;  v»li^' 
in  mold  «iiimU  ! ' 

HHIUI,   WHtilll-d    II 

inutvH,  Hi.  or  ifli 
n|{,  HH  be  tbriw 
mud,   •'  1  tliiiigbt 

he  fifHt  of  i)cit) 
lli(«  peiiple  will 
itiTiiiitlciit  fever, 
r«t(lay  of  diKRinjj 
III  red  iiiili'H  from 
ily  dayn.     In  »li>' 

II)  lIlK  WHllT,  Imii 

owinK  •'"'y*  ""•' 
old.  or  more,  per 
I  till-  uold  rf|{iun. 
lireo  leel  deep. 


\ 


OREGON. 


4 


From  all  the  inforinntion  we  were  enahlcd 
to  oliliiin  l)i'fori'  einiKnitini;  (o  tliiH  rnuntry, 
(itnyH  the  editor  of  the  Oregon  SpcciatDr,)  wo 
arrived  at  theconrlusion  tliHt  the  lowrr  portion 
of  ihi'  country — the  portion  between  tht-  CiiH- 
ciiije  nnd   the  (^)aHt   MountiiinM — poxwHHed  ii 
rich  Hoil,  with  a  surface  f{eneri«lly  levrl  and 
cuiiveniently  divernified  with  prairie  and  tim- 
ber; tliat  the  middle  portion  of  tiie  country — 
between  the  Cascade  and  the  Hliio  Mountaina 
— poRMeHHed  ci>niiderable,  though  not  extmor- 
diiiary  advantage).;  and  that  the  Fliatern  por- j 
tion  of  the   country — between  the  Hl'ie  and  | 
Koeky  Mountjiimt — waa  of  liule  or  no  value. 
We  hud   lived  i:i  New  Kngland,  nnd  in  the  , 
\VeHt»'rn  Statea,  and  had  expected  to  find  Ore- 
gon a   New  Kn|i^land— increaHed   in  the  nize 
and   grandeur  ol    ita   niountaina,    trecN,   and 
HtroiiiiH  ;  and  increased   alao  in  the  extent  of  ' 
its  v.illeyH,  and  temperelfl  in  its  climate.    Ore-  ^ 
gon,  aH  a  whole,  far,  very  far,  HiirpasseH  our 
expert.uiims.      The    WillaiiielU"   valley    d<ieH 
Mill  cmitain  as  much  level  laud  as  we  bud  ex- 
jircled,  liut  iu  soil  is  us  rich,  and  iu  tillable 
liiiid  much  more  extensive  than  wo   had  ex- 
pected   to  find  it.     Ni*arly  all  ibr   Amrrican 
»ettleiiientH    in  Oregon    are  confined    to    this 
NViiiainetto  Valley,  and  yet  much  choice  land 
between  Puget  Sound  and  the  head-waters  ol 
thJM  river  remain  uutaken.     The  de-jree  nf  fer- 
tility of  any  soil  may  be  safi  Iv  eMtiitiiit«i|  from 
ilH  products.     The  ordinary  ioreht  tn-es  not 
only  grow  here  in  gig.^ntic  proportions— the 
black  alder  in  Oregon  grows  to  a  state!  v  tree, 
fit  for  lawlogs,  from  tw.i  to  three   fe«-t  m  di- 
ainet«-r.     To   doubt    tbui    such   a    soil   uoii'd 
richly  rewanl  the  labour  of  the  hiislDuulinan, 
IN  treason  .iirainsi  the    Arcbiti'ct  of    Nature. 
This  vslley  iian  received  favourable  represent- 
ations from   nearly  all  who  luiva  seen  it,  and 
spoken  or  written  ii<  relation  to  it.     The  land 
III  this  valley,  for  forty  miles  I'roin  its  foot,  is 
u'l'iienilly  rolling,  and  covend  with  dense  or 
xi  altering  timber ;  above  this  distance,  to  the 
head   of  the  valley,  about  one   liumlred  and 
forty  m.'les,  the  prairie    predoininates.     The 
!«iwer  portion  of  the  valley  possesses  an  ex- 
tremely rich  aoil,  and  is  valuable  for  iu  tim- 
ber, fish,  and  water  power,  hut  pifsenti  but 
little  natural  iieauty.     The  middle  and   upper 
portion  of  the  valley  is  atrikingly  lieatitiful 
and  grand,  and  to  its  gntat  beauty  and  grandeur 
IS  added  a  ready  and  tumsible  prepanitiua,  by 
nature,  for  ita  s«Htlement  and  profitable  occu- 
pation by  the  weiiry  traveller     The  lower  por- 
tion of  this  valley  is  not  without  ita  prairies, 
among  the  most  important  uf  which  are  the 


Tualatin  plains.  These  plains  are  in  the  form 
of  a  half  moon,  conuiining  at  least  forty  thou- 
sand acres  of  prairie  land,  extremely  rich  and 
beautiful,  are  in  t'ull  view  of  three  snow-capped 
mountains  in  the  Cascade  range. 

'Hie  country  about  F'liget  .Sounil  is  extreme- 
ly beautiful ;  its  soil  is  grivelly,  and  producer 
vegetables  in  great  profusion,  but  is  leas  s'tited 
to  the  growth  of  wheat  than  most  parts  of  Ore- 
gon. The  Cowlitz  country --betwiwn  the 
Sound  and  the  C'olumbia— is  interspersed  with 
small  rich  |)rairies,  productive  in  grains  and 
vogctables,  and,  from  recent  explorations,  be- 
lieved to  be  rich  in  minerals,  'rhis  portion  of 
the  country  is  but  little  settled. 

The  country  about  the  mouth  <r  the  Colum- 
bia Hiver  has  increased  its  po|>;;ation  aboit 
one  half  from  the  '.ast  immi|rration.  Clatsop 
plain,  situate  i>;,on  the  I'acific,  south  cf  the 
mouth  of  Ciiuinbia  River,  possesses  a  grB« 
velly  soil,  extremely  productive  of  vegetiibles, 
hut  less  prmluctive  ol  wheat.  These  plains, 
and  .ithers  similar,  lying  north  of  the  river,  ns 
yet  unsettled,  have  been  formed  by  sand 
thrown  up  by  the  waves  of  the  ocean,  and  en- 
rieiied  by  the  decay  of  vegetation.  The  soil 
of  the  timbered  land  in  the  vicinity  of  thesn 
plains  is  similar  to  the  soil  of  this  valley,  and 
undoubtedly  w'll  nrr)vo  to  bo  richly  produc- 
tive of  grains  ami  fruits,  as  w«ll  us  vi'geta- 
bli*s. 

The  (Mamet,  Kogues,und  l!in|M|ua  Valleys, 
(rivers  emptying  into  the  Pacific,)  are  as  yet 
unexplored  and  unknown.  The  southein  road 
to  Oregon  crosses  these  vulleys  high  up,  and, 
from  what  information  we  have  obtained,  wh 
believe  that  they  are  se<-ond  to  no  portion  of 
Oregon. 

\Ve  regard  the  miiMltt  portion  of  Oregon  ai 
line  of  the  most  vaiuL.ile  portions  of  the  world, 
pruliably  the  moit  valuable  for  the  purposes 
of  graking.  I'  is  a  pailurr  JlrlJ,  extimding 
more  Uian  four  hundred  miles  north  and  south, 
and  over  one  hundred  miles  imst  and  west, 
containing  more  than  fnir  millions  of  acres  of 
land,  almost  every  whem  covereii  with  a  thick 
carpet  of  nutritious  grass.  The  cliiimte  of 
the  lower  portion  of  Oregon  is  g(M)d,  but  thfl 
climate  of  its  middle  portion  h  iMttter.  If  tho 
•'rating  lands  of  New  Kngland,  New  York, 
?*eni7sylvania  nnd  'ihio  are  valuable,  after  iha 
expi'iditure  >'',  great  labour  and  expense  lo 
make  them  so,  then  that  portion  of  Oregon, 
supplied  as  it  is  with  a  climate  more  healthy 
and  mill!  than  any  of  those  Suites,  and  thickly 
spread  by  nature  with  llie  richest  graases,  i« 
$lill  mure  valuable.     If  wool  growing  can  be 

79 


p 


Piipp 


f^m 


^PUP 


,'.■•1 '  *• 


80 


ORKGON. 


.  fe' 


i 


made  morn  protitiiblo  where  slit-ep  HiiiHt  he  fed 
in  winter,  it  can  be  made  more  ijrofitiiblo 
where  they  keep  healthy  and  liit  lliroiijrhoul 
tho  year,  upon  tlie  natural  (fmsses  of  the 
country,  an  thttf  have  dime  and  will  do  in  Ihr 
middle  porliom  if  Orrffiin.  Wheal,  e<irn,  oats, 
putiitoes,  pen. ,  (rarden  ve|;etabb  k.  and  friiil8, 
produce  well  in  that  portion  of  tin-  country. 
Coal  and  lead  ore  haa  been  discovered  tinre, 
and  wiiter  power  for  tnanufacluriny;  jMirposrs  is 
abundant. 

The  middle  and  eastern  portions  of  Orefron 
have  been  (grossly  niisreprcKenied  in  tlie  Sinics. 
We  are  not  aware  that  irniiiis  have  been  urown 
on  the  eaHtern  portion  of  Oregon,  exei  pt  iit 
Fort  Colville  and  vicinity;  yet,  from  tlir  wild 
rye,  Ila\,  und  other  pnxluetH  which  abound  in 
the  valh-yH,  we  believe  that  y;rainH,  viirciabli  «, 
and  fruilM  may  be  cultivated  ibere  with  huc- 
cesa.  Ka«tern  Oregon  is  aUo  v.iiuabie  for  its 
grasses,  and  we  venture  the  a>fserlion,  believ- 
ing that  time  will  show  itH  truth,  that  it  eon- 
tam8  more  and  bettir  )rrazint;  lands  tir.in  all 
New  Knj;land.  If  nature's  freaks  .1  ml  frowns 
appear  there,  her  pleaHantries  and  smiles  ap- 
peitr  there  also.  Perhaps  (he  beauty,  (rraiuii  ur, 
and  sim]>licity  of  the  works  of  nature  are  no> 
where  more  imposinir,  and  In  r  mysterious- 
nC'SH  nowhere  more  unfatlioinalib'  tlian  in  the 
oaatern  portion  of  Ore^jon.  The  niimral 
HpriiL's  of  Ibar  Kiver,  w  iih  its  pure  and  invi- 
t^or.i  ii^r  ciimale,  is  destined  to  become  tho 
jjreat  waterinjj-place  of  the  world. 

On^roii  is  not  only  valuable  for  its  soil  and 

SraKsts,  but  also  for  its  climat4',  timber,  and 
*heries,  and  for  its  location  upon  tiie  Pacific. 
There  .ire  luany  iotrlli^cnl  men  in  the  .Si.ites, 
who  In  love  that  Orrjrou  li:is  from  five  to  nix 
■noMilis  lit'  incchsant  rain,  and  aliout  as  many 
nionlhs  of  drouyhi,   in  the  year.     We  have 

Iiassed  a  winter,  liul  not  a  summer,  in  On  ;;i  n. 
t  ia  said  that  last  sumnu'r  was  unusually  dry. 
We  arrived  in  the  Wiliamitti  \alli\  on  the 
l.'ilh  of  Srpti'mber,  some  linu'  before  the  com- 
inunci'ment  of  liie  raiuN  srason,  and  when  we 
arrived,  the  soil  and  vcKctaiion  >boW(  d  b  ss 
Nuflerin;;  from  droutrht  than  \\v  have  fri<|u<  oi- 
ly seen  in  ihe  St.lles. 

'I'he  w  heal  crop  of  the  last  season  was  un- 
liiually  small,  the  <MnMe  of  which  is  attribut*  d 
here  to  lack  of  the  usual  sprinjj  niins  ;  yet 
Hufliciiiit  was  prodm-ed  to  supply  the  yn  ally 
increased  popul  ilion  of  ihe  country  witii 
bread,  and  seed  for  sowing,  all  of  which  was 
lull  and  perfect.  'I'he  last  season's  crcrp  of 
oats,  potatoes,  corn,  (ho  Inr  a>  it  was  |i|.niied,) 
vei^cialiles,  and  fruits,  thou|jli  not  heavy,  w.is 
sumeient  for  the  waiits  of  the  lountry.  These 
tacts  should  salisfy  any  man  that  the  drou^liti 
of  Ore||(un  nru  more  terrible  in   name  than  in 


I  fart.  It  fleldom  snowfl  in  this  valley.  In 
December  last,  we  saw  ice  about  lb ree-fourths 
of  an  inch  thick,  on  dead  water,  in  small  shal- 
low pools,  ihi'  result  of  three  cold  days  and 
nijjbts.  Durin'j  ibe  urealer  part  of  last  winter 
there  wi  re  no  frosts  here.     That  which  is  In  re 

'  (lenominati  (I  the  "  rainy  season,"  comnn  nees 
r,n  t!ie  lir.1l  of  .N'ovcmbrr,  and  em.s  on  t;ie  fir>i 
of  March — four  months.  Hetueiii  the  la^t 
day  of  October,  HI7,  and  the  first  day  of 
March,  Imn,  in  this  valley,  ilnre  were  se- 
venty-six clear  days,  fourteen  days  "w  which 
it  rained,  bailed,  or  snowed  all  day,  and  thirty 
('  lys  on  which  il  was  neither  cle.ir  nor  slormy 
all  day.  Those  of  our  cili/ens  who  have 
passed  the  winter  in  Ibe  middli  portion  of 
Orii^on,  represent  the  elimale  ihi  re  as  beauti- 
fully mijil  ami  pleasant,  with  scarcely  a  rainy 
(lav  <lurin};  ibe  winter. 

The  immense  irrowth  and  ipiantity  of  tln> 
limber  of  Orejron,  we  believe,  are  ijinerally  ad- 
mitted. The  timber  is  valuable,  so  far  as  it  i" 
needed  for  home  consuniptii>n,  anil  so  far  as 
il  is  profitalde  for  exporuition.  There  an.' 
eiirbteen  saw-mills  in  operation  in  Orc|ron, 
and  a  tireater  number  nearly  ready  for  opera- 
tion, and  yet  lumber  is  worth  >>i>'Jl)  per  thousand 
in  currency.     'I"h  '  Ore|,ron  lumber  is  shippeil 

'  til  Caliloriiia  ami  llie  Saiiduieli  Islands,  and 
its  value  for  shi|imenl  controls  ii4  jirice  at 
home. 

'I'Inl  the  rivers  of  Ore^jon  aboumi  with  the 
elioicesl  fish,  we  believe  also  is  ^eiier.illy  ad- 
mitted. .*»'ever.il  hundred  barrels  of  salmon 
an*  annually  p  icked  here  ;  ;-.s  many  thousands 
of  liarrels  miont  be  packed  annn.tlly. 

The  day  is  not  fir  distant  whin  peopjf  re- 
'i.liii;;  u|ion  ilii-  .Vllantieeo.ist  ui'd  be  en{fa|;eil 
in  the   fisliinir  ^md   lumberi.i;^   busincHs   upon 

'Ml 

tlo 

barn  II  there.  \\  hale  fisbinu  's  .ilmo!>i  exclu- 
hiveiy  confined  to  the  Pacific.  The  presen! 
W'  rk  of  whale  li-hinjr  is  perforiiiid  at  a  nn.il 
di.it.iiicc  from  lioiiie.  That  f.iiini  r  who  ){oes 
ten  miles  from  bome  to  work  his  farm,  cannot 
farm  as  jirofitably  as  he  who  lives  upon  his 
firm,  'hiosi!  Who  eonlnd  the  whali-fishiny; 
interest  may  conlinue  to  nsidc  upon  the  At- 
I  iptie  ;  but  the  operators  will  restdi  upon  tin 
Pacific  to  collect  and  slore. 

\N  hen  till Ilcctin;,'  and  carryinif  branehes 

of  the  w  liale-fisbiii^  inti  n'sl  shall  be  scpaniteil, 
licit  bu'iiiess  may  be  rediici'il  tos\Ntiin  iiml 
CI  rt  linly,  but  not  befoic.  That  llie  Pacilie 
will  soon  become  the  seat  of  active  and  profit- 
iible  eoinnierci.il  openitinns,  none  can  doiibl. 
The  capital  of  ()ret{on  to  le  invi  sled  in  these 
opera'ions,  furnished  by  .Naluri',  is  iiiiinense, 
,  beyond  eoinputation. 


'acilic.      Lumber  is   las,  disappearing  on 
Atl.inlic.      The    fisherii  s    are    hecoinini; 


TilK    KM). 


•tnWtTrBB  *T  L.  jr.HNgiiX  iND  CU. 

raiuBtLriu*. 


t*'^^-_J|>W 


•mmmumfm 


m* 


■q 


H  Villi.')'.  In 
iMhrct'-roiirtliH 

in  xiinll  nIi;i|. 
•iiltl   (liiyH  itml 

r>r  |;isi  winltr 

I  which  is  hrri 
,"  ciiiiiiiM  no-H 
i<is  on  till'  lir>i 
A  (in  ihf  l.i»t 
■  lir^t  iliiy  (,)' 
hrn-  wrrn  nc- 
iiys  I  II  which 
hiy,  iinil  tliirty 
tur  nor  Ntnriny 
ns  will!  h;iVf 
Ir  iiorticin  ol' 
( rr  !i»  hcaiiti- 
;iriM  ly  a  rainy 

iianlily  of  the 
'  ).'tniT,iily  ail- 
,  HO  Cir  lis  it  i- 
iinii  so  (iir  as 
ThiTi'  art! 

II  ill  Ori'ijoii, 
idy  for  o|i('ra- 
I  pir  llioiisaiiil 
nT  Is  '.hiiijii'il 

irt'tlliU,   aiitl 

H   in  pricf  at 

'iinil  with  th<' 
jjtiur.itly  Hil- 
ls of  Miilinon 
my  thoUMuniU 

my. 

I  (I  |i»'o|)|(  rr- 
i'l  hf  I'lijjfagftI 
(iNini-HH  ii|ioii 
ia|t|iiarinj;  on 
iri-    hrcoiiiini; 

.lIlllO!,!  fXl'lu- 

Till'  |iri'Hni! 
ml  at  a  grfat 
iir  who  Koi'H 
i  fariii,  cannot 
vi's  ii|ioii  his 
whali-fishinijt 
upon  the  At- 
i|ili  ii|iiiii  till 

ring  hntnohcs 
hcKC|mnUiil, 

II  HVKii m  nnil 
I  tin-  Pacific 
ivcand  iirofit- 
lit  can  ilouht. 

Htcil    ill    tllCtio 

in  ittitnt'iiHr, 


